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-   -   Hidden/Secret Paris (https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/hidden-secret-paris-99273/)

Randall Smith Jan 8th, 2001 07:58 PM

Hidden/Secret Paris
 
Bonjour, <BR> <BR>I would like to begin a new topic. Many that contribute to this forum have been many times to Paris. <BR> <BR>I am interested in the Hidden or Secret Paris. The experience that you have after the Louvre, the Eiffel tower, the Champs-Elysees and Bateau Mouche. <BR> <BR>The little unknown parks, small intimate restaurants, piano bars, the nooks and cranies of Paris that only someone who has visited or lived there would know about. <BR> <BR>I have several but I would like to start of with just a couple and await the response of others. <BR> <BR>There is a Piano Bar next to Saint Julien le Pauvre on 56 rue Galande, it is called Trois Mailletz, appearently old french for hammers. The story is that when they were building Notre Dame just across the Seine, the workers would come there to drink at the end of the day. I don't know if this is true but it is a wonderful place. We've probably gone there 30 times or more over the last 10 years. The same piano player is usually there and she can play anything from Gershwin, to Mozart, Edith Piaf standard and other classic French music as will as American Jazz (she is phenomonal). She alway has her folder of music, opens it up and voila. There is an old lady that comes in every night with her little dog, she always wears the same fur coat and sets at the same table. Everyone seems to know her. She looks as though she might have had a slight stroke. The other visiter are just as animated and it's almost as much fun watching the people as listening to the wonderful music. Occasionally they have opera singers perform for as set. <BR> <BR>For the price of a drink you can set and be entertained all evening. The also have major acts in the cellar. The first time we were there the Platters were performing. You can always see the stars of the evening come in with their instruments and head to the cellar. We are usually content to set upstais and enjoy the lively activity. <BR> <BR>I would like to know if anyone else has been to Les Trois Mailletz, and if you feel the same way about the place. <BR> <BR>This is my first contribution, I think I have quite a few more, but I'm trying to make a list of this type of place. <BR> <BR>Bon Voyage a toutes et a tous, <BR> <BR>Sincerely, <BR> <BR>Randall Smith

arjay Jan 8th, 2001 08:23 PM

Oh, Randall - thank you! We are piano bar habitues (accent mark deserved somewhere in there, I think), but I would NEVER have thought to post this question...and we're going to BE in Paris in less than 8 weeks... <BR> <BR>You've opened a fabulous thread opportunity and I hope others will add to it. <BR> <BR>We used to have a similarly wonderful piano bar fella in Chicago, but he retired a few years ago....WHERE will all that wonderful musical knowledge go???

Susan Jan 8th, 2001 10:37 PM

Dear Randall: <BR> Thanks for your post. We're returning to Paris this May & would love to hear of more secret/hidden places. <BR> Susan

marguerite Jan 9th, 2001 11:05 AM

Anyone wonder why Randall is creating a list of these places? Because he's in business (renting apartments) and wants other people to help him make money so he can compile your information and use it. You can contribute to his profits if you wish. Randall has tried this kind of thing before, getting information from others to use for his own gain, he has even advertised blatantly on this board.

Tony Jan 9th, 2001 11:23 AM

Marguerite, <BR> <BR>So what! <BR> <BR>The subject matter is still very interesting, and I hope we get plenty of replies to copy.

Kim Sutton Jan 9th, 2001 01:41 PM

I second that! Although I have no contributions of my own to make I would love to hear any replies to his suggestion. I am planning a trip tp Provence and Paris in late May and would love advice and suggestions. I am a French major and would love to know about these smaller places to learn more about the culture and the people!!! <BR>Thanks and GREAT SUGGESTION!!!!! <BR>Kim

xxx Jan 9th, 2001 04:15 PM

I agree. Who cares if it helps Randall? It would also help those of us who are planning a trip to Paris. Maybe Randall could move things along with a couple more of his examples. Where are all you Paris experts?!

Miane Jan 9th, 2001 04:57 PM

...keeping our secrets hidden, perhaps? :)

not the bad topper Jan 10th, 2001 12:33 PM

Any secrets?

Patrick Jan 10th, 2001 01:48 PM

While I am not in support of advertising on this forum, I can't figure out what is wrong with Randall's post. It is one of the most exciting and innovative suggestions I've found here for different things to do in Paris. Marguerite, you may ignore his post if you are offended by his other posts, but why should I ignore this wonderful suggestion that has appeared without any tie to advertising unless he also owns this piano bar? Thanks for the suggestion, Randall. I had found one sort of fun but very crowded cellar piano bar that is basically a fire trap, but this one sounds much more fun.

Pepe LePue Jan 10th, 2001 03:34 PM

Watch for "Hidden/Secret Paris" all this week on The Travel Channel!

Randall Smith Jan 10th, 2001 05:00 PM

Salut, <BR> <BR>This is my second post to the topic that I started. I appreciate everyones support. I began this topic because I sincerely thought it would be a great way for everyone to share some wonderful experiences and maybe learn some special hidden secrets about this wonderful city. <BR> <BR>My next Hidden Paris Story is as follows. <BR> <BR>My favorite boat ride ever. I assume lots of readers are already familiar with it but I'll mention it anyway. It is the Canal Ride on the Canal Saint Martin. My wife and I took it on a beautiful summer day. We first visited the Musee de la Musique at La Villette in the 19th. Anyone who is interested in music and history should visit this museum. The boat leaves form a dock near the La Cite des Sciences et de l'industrie. I believe it is about 40ff per ticket and is a lovely 2 hour meandering cruise through some very interesting parts of Paris, beginning in the 19th and ending up, after passing underneath the place de la Bastille, the suprising Port de Plaisane de Paris Arsenal which boarders on the 4th. The entire time they play classic Edith Piaf and other French songs of the period, it makes you feel as though you were transported back in time to the Paris of the 1930's. There is also a description of the passing sights such as the Hotel Du Nord where the classic French film of the same name was supposed to have taken place. They even play some of the lines spoken by Arletty the star. <BR> <BR>It is much more intimate than the Bateaux Mouches and more French than tourists. If you are lucky and have beautiful weather as we did, it will be something that you'll never forget. <BR> <BR>A Bientot, <BR> <BR>Randall Smith

SharonM Jan 10th, 2001 05:39 PM

Wherever you come from Randall... <BR> <BR>I felt your inquery/line of thought quite charming and it brought back so many similar, wonderful "people/pub/bar/etc" memories... <BR> <BR>For me, the experience of meeting and observing people is as important and as wondrous as the scenery... <BR>Well. Actually, it IS the scenery! <BR> <BR>(and I LOVE off-the-beat crooks and crannys...) <BR> <BR>(and history, and authors,and art, and....well, you see what I mean...) <BR> <BR>As far as Paris is concerned, I guess my little "cranny" would be this little Greek cafe off Place Monge... and the flat we ended up in w/ new friends in the same area...(none of us really spoke the same language but it was interesting) ...the subway had stopped for the night. <BR> <BR>...another 12hrs later ended up back at the hotel (St. James et Albany) where we met the Australian Fashion Designer... <BR> <BR>Anyhoo...what was my point?

xxx Jan 10th, 2001 07:55 PM

So, SharonM, what was your point?! "A little Greek cafe off Place Monge" doesn't give us much to go on. More details would help.

SharonM Jan 10th, 2001 07:59 PM

you're making me blush, xxx

SharonM Jan 10th, 2001 08:02 PM

In other words... <BR>It's a long story... <BR>

Randall Smith Jan 11th, 2001 02:49 PM

To Sharon M and all who are interested. <BR> <BR>Sharon reminded me, only a block or so from where Sharon rented her flat, at the Southern end of the rue Mouffetard, in the square in front of the Eglise Saint Medard, every Sunday morning there is an accordioniste, who preforms old French songs in a sing along format, they pass out the words to everyone on mimiographed sheets. It's fun to watch the children and adults, many of whom have just come out of the beautiful old chuch. <BR> <BR>I think they do this all year but I haven't been there in January or February. <BR> <BR>Randall Smith <BR>

Nancy Jan 11th, 2001 05:42 PM

Personally, I think this is a great posting. I'm visiting Paris for the month of May and am searching for out of the ordinary places, not found in guide books. Hey, if you don't like the place, leave! Hope I can add some places on my return. Thanks to all of you for your input. Thanks, Randall, for starting it.

W.Cowley Jan 11th, 2001 07:53 PM

It's been almost two years since my trip to Paris but the memories live on. An evening at Caveau de la Huchette (5, Rue de la Huchette, 75005 Paris) within walking distance of Notre Dame Cathedral can transport you back to the 40's swing era. This underground jazz club with art deco lighting and very much a cave feel will give you an added entertaining bonus as the locals hit the dance floor - very much a people watching spot unless you can trip the light fantastic. <BR>We ducked in out of a March downpour and enjoyed a "moment" and took home the memories. <BR>

ldsant Jan 11th, 2001 10:22 PM

One of my favorite restaurants in Paris - L'auberge Bressane. It's not fancy by any stretch of the imagination, but it's lively, it's fun, people are very friendly, the waiters and owner are incredible, the food was really good. It's alive! Then walk down the street and look at Invalides at night all lit up. <BR> <BR>In Provence - St. Remy - the two museums - one in the Hotel Sade - Kathy was fantastic! She knows everything about each piece in the museum.

carol Jan 12th, 2001 06:19 AM

I serendipitously happened upon that accordianiste at the end of the Rue Mouffetard last September, when I went there for a flea market being held on the weekend. Not only were folks singing, they were dancing, too!!! I felt transported back to the pre-war Paris of my imagination. It was wonderful.

Randall Smith Jan 12th, 2001 12:16 PM

Hi Everyone, <BR> <BR>I wanted to thank Carol for her neat post on the accordeoniste. <BR> <BR>I have another. I'm sure everyone is familiar with the largest department store in Paris, La Samaritaine, but have you been to the restaurant on the 5th floor the Toupary. The food is traditional, they have both lunch and diner ~300ff. Try to get a table by the window. It's a great view of the Seine the dome at Les Invilides, the Eiffel Tower, the dome of the Accadamie Francais. They've done such a good job with the mirror arrangement they have created a trompe d'oeil. As I was setting there I couldn't figure out how there could be two domes that looked like Les Invilides, and why the Eiffel Tower was to the East. TOO MUCH RED WINE I THOUGHT. No I was looking in the mirror. Not too smart. <BR> <BR>The food is good, the decor is very nice, and the veiw is magnificent. Much better than the snack bar on the roof. <BR> <BR>Ciao, <BR> <BR>Randall Smith

Sue Jan 12th, 2001 05:15 PM

Randall, I too am pleased to see you posting information on Fodor's rather than advertising your apartment. Everything I've read has been really helpful--thanks. We already intend to take the canal boat ride--we've been intending to for years, and your post may just be the thing to inspire us. We are also going to look for the accordianist (any particular hour?). One of our favorite memories is going to the Petit Journal St. Michel to see Claude Bolling, a wonderful jazz pianist/composer, (on the last Tues of the month). The time we went he was introducing a suite for piano and flute and we met a SF jazz DJ who interviewed him at intermission. Quite an adventure for non-nightowls. We are hoping he still performs then and will go again in May.

Susan Jan 12th, 2001 06:32 PM

Sue: Please tell me exactly where Petit Journal St. Michel is! My son has a tape of Claude Bolling's suite for piano & flute; it's fabulous (I play the flute). We'll be in Paris the last week of Sept. If he's actually still playing there, it would be wonderful. Thanks for any info.

Sue Jan 12th, 2001 10:20 PM

It's at 71, blvd St. Michel (RER Luxembourg). I remember we ate at Polidor on Monsieur le Prince so we could walk there afterwards. Every time we have been to Paris (yearly) Bolling has been playing there on the last Tues of the month (I know because we always seem to fly out on a Tues--this year it's Wed). We'll be there in May--I'll let you know if he's there then.

Susan Jan 13th, 2001 07:51 AM

Sue: Thanks so much. Here's hoping he'll still be there in Sept!


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