Help with trip to Northern Spain
 

Hello we are planning a trip to Spain, starting in northern Spain. This is 5 siblings and spouses in our late 50s. We are doing a cycling tour in the Riajo region starting and ending in Ezcaray. The plan is
Sept 1st fly into Bilboa travel to San Sebastian.
2 Nights in San Sebastian
Sept 3 travel to Ezcaray- cycle tour for a week ending back in Ezcaray
Sept 10th travel to Toledo send 2 nights
Sept 12th travel to Madrid stay 3 nights

This is the first part of the trip. My siblings and spouses will leave from Madrid, my husband and I plan to continue to southern Spain, Karen Woo I have read your report and plan to do something similar.

I would appreciate suggestions for transport on this first part. Are there regular buses from Bilboa to San Sebastian? Are there companies we can book a minivan to get us from San Sebastian to Ezcaray, there doesn't seem to be public transport. Similarly I'm not sure the bast way to get to Toledo, I don't know the region but I see there are trains from Burgos to Madrid, Burgos is a little over an hour from Ezcaray. Would a minivan fron Ezcaray to Burgos and then the train be feasible? Would trains to Toledo leave from the same train station or would we need to change? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Bilbao, not Bilboa, for some reason it´s a very common spelling mistake for English speakers. Yes, plenty of daily buses from Bilbao to Donostia-San Sebastian, no worries on that part of your trip. I would spend at least one night in Bilbao, if it´s a feasible possibility. Talur is a good van company that can take you to Ezcaray.

Bilbao is more interesting for a day, or longer, than the elderly vacation retreat of San Sebastian.

Thank you both, I think we will stay in Bilbao the first night and then spend the second night in Donostia-San Sebastian.

I strongly disagree that San Sebastián is an "elderly retreat!" Where did that idea come from?

Wow, just wow, I just returned from a long weekend in San Sebastián during its San Sebastián Festival, La Tamborrada, and I would never, ever call the city an elderly retreat.
There were almost 5,000 children marching all over the city on Saturday during the Tamborrada Infantil. It was a thousand degrees of cuteness!

You can always get away from those horrible elderly people in San Sebastian by renting a stand up paddle board and exploring the coast:

https://www.alokayak.com/

Or doing a rope course high above the sea:

https://canopydonostiaventura.com/en/inicio-english

Or simply hiking one of the many dramatic ridge trails around San Sebastian.

I went to San Sebastian on a day trip several years ago, what struck me was the energy and the wonderful atmosphere, I really wished we could stay for the open air concert that was setting up on the beach. I decided that if we were in that part of the world again we would need at least one night there! definitely not an elderly vibe. Unfortunately we can't fit more time in but glad we can stay at least a night.

I just returned from San Sebastián, visiting at least twice a year, (we have great local friends), and I can assure you that it has a ZERO elderly vibe. It's a vibrant city filled with young people and lots and lots and lots of kids, many who are completely bilingual in Spanish and Euskera. In fact there is always room for a baby carriage in any eating establishment, whether it be in a Michelin star, in a pintxos bar in the Old Quarter or in a simple coffee bar.

This past weekend during the Tamborrada (and during any other Fiesta) there were babies, children and teenagers every where you looked, especially teens and young adults attending the opening and closing ceremonies of the Tamborrada, filling up the Plaza de la Constitutión, and the party on Saturday at midnight on Jan. 20 went on and on...

And as shelemnn says, there are outdoor activities galore for the young.
And it's an extremely fashion forward city with young designers leading the way. Some of Spain's top designers, in fashion and in all types of design, are young people from San Sebastián and elsewhere in the Basque Country.

As far as I know, to take the train to Toledo, you have to change in Madrid. There are no direct trains from anywhere else.

We are staying 3 nights in San Sebastian in late May. Any recommendations for restaurants/bars? Definitely going for the food!

plufmud,
Still reputable pintxos bars in the Old Quarter, the Parte Vieja (although they will be packed with tourists, yes, in May):

• Casa Urola (our "go to" place)
• La Cuchara de San Telmo (where there is no "groaning board" of pintxos covering the bar--everything is prepared to order in the tiny kitchen. One must be patient)
• Borda Berri (ditto to the above)
• Txepetxa (the anchovy temple)
• Tamboril (same owners as Ganbara below)
• Paco Bueno (for its signature pintxo, the gamba gabardina, the bar looks like a typical fútbol bar but prices are lower and every local loves its signature pintxo)
• Ganbara (with hesitation--one must stand in line before opening at 12:30 or at 7:00 pm to snag a place at the bar inside--once the bar area is filled no more diners are allowed in until space becomes available--it's a bit of a victim of its own success-closed Sun/Mon)
• La Viña (for dessert only-its famous burnt cheesecake)

Very reputable pintxos bars in the Gros neighborhood

• Bodega Donostiarra (with outdoor terrace, long benches and a pintxos bar on the inside and a sit down pintxos space across the street, formerly called La Masquerida--order the "Indurain", the "completo" or a freshly made tortilla española for one)
• Bergara Bar (where the "miniature haute cuisine" movement here began)
• Matalauva, with only 1 table inside and outdoor terrace, very inventive but limited in its offerings as inside they have no smoke outlet)

Very dependable in the center

• La Espiga (a classic, loved by the locals)
• Casa Vallés (where the "Gilda" skewer pintxo was invented)
• Iturrioz (on the Plaza del Buen Pastor facing the Cathedral of the same name)
• Antonio Bar (with new branch on Boulevard at the beginning of the Old Quarter)

Non Michelin-starred restaurants

• Narru (1 Repsol sun, a "restaurante de producto"--no fancy flourishes, no foams, no deconstruction--just the very finest raw ingredients prepared simply-in Hotel Arbaso on the Cathedral square)
• Rekondo (1 Repsol sun, one of Europe's top wine lists; receives the Wine Spectator Grand awards each year--on the slopes of Monte Igeldo)
• Bistrot Ondarreta (French influenced, charming Parisian style bistro, small menu but every dish prepared superbly--near Ondarreta beach in Antiguo)
• Zelai Txiki (1 Repsol sun, for fantastic wild caught fish with pretty views of the city and lovely outdoor terrace dining)
• Astelena 1997 (1 Repsol sun, in the Old Quarter)
• Galerna (1 Repsol sun, young female chef nominee for Chef Revelation at Madrid Fusion in 2020, in the Gros neighborhood)
• Xarma Cook & Culture (fusion cuisine, in Gros neighborhood)

for Debbie,
Ezcaray is midway between the train stations of Logroño and Burgos, but I would choose to arrange transport to Burgos, as the train ride to Madrid Puerta de Atocha can be on the ALVIA. There are cheaper MD trains but they a whopping 4 hrs. 23 min. so make sure you book the ALVIA, a ride of under 2 hours. If you're staying at the lovely Hotel-Restaurante Echaurren, they can arrange tranport to the Burgos Rosa Manzano rail station for you (it's outside of the city).
www.renfe.com

also called Bilbo :-)

Maribel, thank you so much, that is very helpful information, I'm also looking forward to trying your recommendations for pintxos, so much choice!

I love the mountain town of Ezcaray, so pretty. I envy your stay there!
The food at Echarren Tradición is wonderful (best croquettes ever), as is that of Casa Masip and there are great pintxos bars as well in this small town of 2,000 people. Nice tortilla española in Bar Satorre and Ezcaray is famous for its sausages (embutidos).
I admit I'm too much of a fan of the mohair items (blankets, throws, scarves) to the detriment of my wallet of Mantas Ezcaray I've done too much damage at their shop in town!
The textile industry there goes back to the 18th century.

Maribel, thank you so much for recommendations. We are also staying for 3 nights in Hondrribia taking daytrips to the explore the French and Spanish the Basque country.

I would add to the excellent list of Maribel (but I think La Cuchara de San Telmo is temporarily closed until they can recover from the fire at next door bar, Senra?) one of my favorites in Donostia-San Sebastian, quite off-the-beaten-path yet: bar Ordizia, in San Lorenzo street. Fantastic squid, prawn and ibérico ham pintxo, great mushrooms,.., and so many others. No sitting, standing, the local way.

Thanks Mike. Staying in Bilboa for one night. Would love to visit a Ribera del Duero winery but may be too far to travel from San Sebastian.

Debbie, I can’t help you with transportation for Northern Spain, but I am very happy that my TR helped you plan your trip to Southern Spain. We had an awesome time, and I would love to return some day. Looks like you have a wonderful trip planned!

You´re staying in Ezcaray, so close to the unique Rioja wine region, full of fantastic, centuries-old and modern wineries, one of the best places in the world for wine!

Yes, La Cuchara de San Telmo is indeed temporarily closed. I forgot that I had read that in El Diario Vasco. That explains why it was closed during the Tamborrada and it may be a long while before they can reopen, since there was very extensive damage.

I agree with mikelg, that for great wines much closer to Ezcaray, you have the Rioja wine region, the Rioja Alavesa and the Rioja Alta, filled with fantastic wineries to visit.

We just returned from the Ribera del Duero, on the Soria side, visiting some new (for us) wineries, and it would be much too far a journey from San Sebastián for a day trip.

Update!
In my list above, I also read in the Diario Vasco that Malalauva had closed, to reopen somewhere in a larger space. Xarma has also closed, as the two chefs have gone their separate ways. The mythic Ibai is reopening in the same space in March, as the chef of Amelibia has taken it over and promises the same iconic dishes that were served by Alicio Garrido and his wife over so many years.

Mike thanks for the recommendation! We are also staying in Bilbao overnight so would appreciate recommendations of places to eat there, as well as Toledo and Madrid. I do plan to check through previous recommendations for Madrid on the forum, but happy for any more.

For Toledo: La Clandestina (1 Repsol sun) & La Orza (tasting menu) if you want "fancier" food),
or more casual: Taberna Botero, Alfileritos;
for tapas: El Trébol for its bombas (large croquettes) and pulgas (little sandwiches) and carcamusas (a traditional Toledo dish, a pork stew with tomatoes and vegetables) and Taberna Skala (1 Repsol solete for casual, tapas bars).

debbie,
For Madrid, there are so very many great options---it would depend on where you´re staying, your dining budget, style....casual or fine dining....there are lots of recommendations here in the archives.

Do you know where you´re staying and type of food you´d like? I have some favorite restaurants, but with different options.

Mikel

IBAI........(sigh). My lunch there was one of my all-time favorite meals. Well worth the anxiety produced when attempting to make a reservation!!!!!!!!!!!!!

ekscrunchy,
They're now taking reservation for the reopening of Ibai! It is supposed to reopen in late March. The chef owner of Amelibia has taken it over, promising to serve the classic dishes, and Alicio Garrido has promised to show up once and awhile. The sommelier will be Martin Flea, the former sommelier of Rekondo.
https://www.baribai.com

Hi Mike,

It's been a long time since I asked about restaurants in Bilbao, but our trip is in a month so I'm back into planning. I'd appreciate any suggestions. Our group is 10, I know larger groups are harder to find space for. I'm looking forward to suggestions! I do appreciate the wealth of knowledge here.

I meant to give our address in Bilbao, it is by Heros Kalea and Calle Juan Ajuriaguerra Kalea

Debbie, if your group is interested in white wine, then a tour of Marques de Murrieta winery just outside Logrono would not disappoint. Outstanding quality!
Their Marques d'Gay line is world-class.
Maribel, I remember Astelena and also Bergara. Is Bar Nestor still around?
I am done. the group of ten

Hi Zebec,

Our group is siblings and spouses doing a cycling tour in the Rioja region, we will be visiting the wineries, some of us opting for e bikes :) Looking forward to seeing this part of Spain.
There will be 8 of us (not 10) in Bilbao, staying by Heros Kalea and Calle Juan Ajuriaguerra Kalea. So any recommendations for casual dining or Pintxo in that area would be greatly appreciated.

Bilbao is a very, very walkable city and distances are quite irrelevant. Your place is in an area with lots of bars for pintxos and very nice restaurants, and a couple of places for a drink after lunch or dinner (Residence or Gin Fizz). For pintxos, I like Bilbao Te Quiero, La Ramona, Morrocotuda...For dining, Monocromo, Salitre, El 13 de Henao, El Capricho, Burgoa...there are dozens. The offer is endless and you will not have any issues finding a place. Try to adapt (if you can and if you want to) to our schedules and habits: aperitivo is having some pintxos and drinks with friends and family BEFORE lunch, which is the most important meal of the day and lasts long, starting around 2pm. Dinner is much smaller, we do not care much about it, and it´s normally not before 0930pm. Pintxos time (one pintxo per bar with a drink, then on to next place after 15min more or less) in the evening starts around 7pm and lasts until 9pm, normally. And then, a light dinner. You do not have to have a pintxo in each bar, of course, we normally don´t. It could replace dinner, too, if you´re not too hungry.

Thank you, we are looking forward to exploring!