thanks on the ME, though it is a bit pricier--I of course want the Level room, am laughing at the Entourage Package!

Your thoughts on whether it is worth the higher price? It is 100euro/night more...then again, I am just booking everything and ignoring prices to a larger extent at this point--I'm cutting into my plastic surgery fund-LOL.

Hmmm,
100 euros more for your dates? Prices in March for the ME are dirt cheap, but I guess they go up considerably in late May. That difference is hard to justify for moi but that's just moi, since I have 10 weeks of hotels to book and pay for in euro land this year! !
Well, if you do book at the de las Letras, make sure to reserve a spot one night for drinks at the ME Penthouse! The de las Letras has its own penthouse chill out space but tiny in comparison. The ME's Penthouse is just great!

I am hard to justify the 100 euro too, I love me a roofbar though both have them.

the price is 144 (180 for terrace room) vs. 244 for for may 29-31.

I still have to relook at the apts in san sebastian and narrow down based on your recs.

I've booked the Riscal and am leaning towards the Balenciaga due to price on the apt front--my worry is that it is all small windows like the bedroom, though it sort of looks like there is a large french door on the living room that the light is hitting. Also it is the only one of your picks other than french house that has internet, which we need. Should I assume there is a french door there, that would make me happier as there is no terrace...

Duh! I should have mentioned this earlier! The reason for the rate increase at the Me by Meliá is due to the bullfight Feria de San Isidro going on in the month of May. This ME is a reconversion of the matadors' favorite hotel, the Reina Cristina. You'll notice the bulls heads that they've kept on both side walls of the bar. It will be filled during those dates with Spain's leading matadors and their cuadrillas (their "entourage")-those who don't stay at the 5 star Wellington, also a matador hang out during this month long bullfighting fair. You'll probably see one of their vans parked outside the hotel if you walk by. So...that's, of course, why rates are higher.

I'll be back with another opinion on the French House vs. Balenciaga.

Since you don't need the 2nd bedroom, I'd go with the Balenciaga. I like the Wi Fi, hardwood floors, Jacuzzi tub, elevator and the larger, open kitchen. The location is perfectly in the center. If we were to go with a S.S. rental just for the two of us, this would be the one we'd choose.

that's what I will do then - the balenciaga.

will having the bullfighters around make for enough amusement and flash to justify paying more?

oh, FWIW, when choosing areas to stay in the cities, I actually like the Raval in Barcelona and prefer it to the Born area which is too brit, faux flash and snobby for me. just something to keep in mind if it makes a difference...

Hi cherrybomb,
We have bullfighters who stay at our hotel in Pamplona during San Fermín, but they're the "second tier" ones (with one notable French exception) who keep a low profile and don't cause much flash.
The top tier matadors either stay in private fincas (estates) or at the NH in the suites.

Don't know how many "top tier" matadors choose (or dress in) the ex Reina Victoria these days since I haven't been in Madrid for San Isidro since the Reina Victoria became the ME.

Luckily San Sebastián isn't snobby or too brit or faux flash, so any section of the town you'll probably like very much.

The Old Quarter is becoming El Born-ified in the sense that it's just more and more packed with tourists of all nationalities these days. To do our own pintxos hopping, we've moved to the Gros quarter, where the surfers' beach of Zurriola is located, beyond the Kursaal center, where the bars are less tourist soaked, so less crowded, and the freshly made pintxos hot from the kitchen even more miniature haute cuisine .

However..., there are two really innovative pintxos bars in the Old Quarter (la Parte Vieja) that you won't want to miss, but go early before the crowds-La cuchara de San Telmo and A Fuego Negro. They're similar in quality and creativity to Gran Sol in Hondarribia.

And if you like A Fuego Negro, the owners have just opened a sister bar in Madrid on Serrano Jover, near the Argüelles metro stop, off Calle Princesa. It's called "Kulto al Plato".
(I haven't included it yet in my Madrid guide).
www.kultoalplato.com

Hi Maribel, haven´t been around for some time, to find this very interesting "ŕ la carte" planning for a visit to a wonderful area of the world.

Cherrybomb, I´d like to comment on your itinerary, with Maribel´s permission:

May 19-21: Bilbao (I wouldn´t miss Getxo and the Hanging Bridge, www.puente-colgante.com (terrible web page and not updated in the past 5 years, but a real must), just a 20´metro ride (totally safe, clean, modern).
May 21-23: Elciego/surroundings. I see that Laguardia has not been mentioned, and its probably the nicest mediaeval town in the area.

May 23-25/26: Hondarribia, with day trips including Bayonne, ?
Chillida-leku, as Maribel well said, and I´d visit an iron mongery, they have shows making iron as it was made centuries ago (www.lenbur.com). If too far (although distances are not big), I´d also visit Biarritz and the French Basque Coast.

May 25(26?)-May 29(28?): San Sebastian, we will rent an apt here, no day trips. Good.
May 29-31: Madrid (this is an ok short change as we are just flying out, so a day in Madrid is fine)

IMO, you´re missing Lekeitio, a wonderful unspoilt fishing village between Bilbao and San Sebastián, but it´s also true that your agenda is full.

In Bilbao don´t miss the ride in the funicular (a public service, not a tourist attraction) to Artxanda and its spectacular views of Bilbao. 10´ walk from the Domine or 3´from Hesperia Bilbao. Also, enjoy the atmosphere of the Old Town and see how locals like to stay rather outdoors socializing having a few drinks and pintxos (and never ever getting drunk, it´s not socially acceptable). Kids are allowed in bars, don´t be surprised.

For more info on Bilbao, Maribel is a great help. And I´m a local, so i may be of help also. Good luck on your trip!

Hi, mikel,

Cherrybomb,
everything that mikel has told you above, especially about Bilbao-he's been a truly wonderful "tour guide" to us of his native Bilbao! Thanks to Mikel we've made some truly delightful discoveries. We'll be back for several days in July, if not before! Definitely take the funicular to Artxanda!

Laguardia is just a 7 minute drive from Elciego-very easy, and not to miss, as mikel says.
We'll be there in just 3 weeks!

Maribel, I hope we can meet in Laguardia or its vicinity, let´s keep in touch.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/johnthedorf/

I have watery eyes not being able to go back to the Basque Country this year. Chocolates in Bayonne, Grilled Sardines over a charcoal fire in Geteria, and Fois at La Cuchara San Telmo in the Parte Vieja Donastia and of the bread. Strolling in the evening from the Niza to the Old town, through the gardens, people arm in arm enjoying life as they walked along La Concha Bay. AND....be sure to have Txokoli wine with your Seafood! Ha! Have a great trip.

Nice pics, John...next time you´ll have to visit more in depth the inside of the Basque Country...and the wine region

Thanks for the added advice and the photos! I'm booking all the rest of the accommodations today. I'm just going to go with your recommendation for madrid, Maribel.

John that seafood looked soooo tasty!

1 more ?? Ballon ride in Elciego--yay or nay for location? My rational is that I figure that the hotel to arrange for it as the husband has been challenged at reserving in the past...

Ok I have everything booked other than in the Rio Bidasoa, as their website booking is down and I had to email my request.

My itinerary is as follows:
May 19-21: Bilbao, Gran Hotel Domine

May 21-23: Elciego, Marques de Riscal - anyone know how the Riscal tour works that comes with this? I booked online and it gives me no info, or i suppose I can email them and ask...

May 23-25: Hondarribia, waiting on Hotel Rio Bidasoa
May 25-29: San Sebastian, Balenciaga Apt
May 29-31: Madrid, the ME Melia

we wanted to split driving and only I drive a manual, I was thinking of getting an automatic out of Bilbao the dropping it in San Sebastian, then renting a manual and I will do the drive to Madrid - this make sense? I figure then the husband will be able to share in the more heavy driving and I can just to San Sebastian to Madrid myself...

I'll also be back with some restaurants I have ???s about, in the meantime suggestions are welcome...for surrounding areas as well.

also, i have some more research/planning (will take suggestions) on the Elciego portion...

Hotel Obispo in Hondarribia is full? I just love that place...

Roads in the BAsque area are excellent, and full of signs on how to get anywhere. Automatic cars are available for renting, but are usually more expensive. Try www.autoeurope.com for cheap prices, or maybe www.pepecar.com. SS to Madrid takes, for an average US driver, about 4 to 5 hours, straight highway (hilly in some parts).

This is FOOD country. So let´s wait for what Maribel tells us, and I´ll suggest some as well if I may.

As per Elciego, there are plenty of wine tours that Maribel will suggest. I´d visit Labastida, Laguardia and the surrounding towns. Wine here is also based on our way of living and heavily linked to the region. You´ll see this on our bars (places to socialize, not to get drunk).

Hi mikelg and cherrybomb,
About the Marqués de Riscal winery tour, I don't know exactly how it works for the hotel guests, but I do know their reservation system is still a bit of an organizational mess, so I would email the hotel directly about this and make sure they do put you on a tour.
Last spring we took the 10 am English tour, and it lasted ninety minutes. We actually had to bow out of the tasting portion before it was finished to get over to Labastida for another winery tour followed by lunch.

Other wineries built by "Starchitects", you have within an easy (quick) drive (but MUST book for all)-
Ysios in Laguardia
Baigorri in Samaniego
Vińa Real on Laguardia-Logrońo road

For hot air balloon rides, I only know one source in Haro-www.globoarcoiris.com
But the concierge at the MdeR should be able to arrange this for you.

As Mikel notes, you'll pay significantly more for that automatic. Can you both drive a manual? If so, I'd book a manual and use the savings on great dining!

And as Mikel says, you're headed to the gastronomic paradise of Spain!!
There are just so many fabulous restaurants to recommend in Bilbao, San Sebastián, Hondarribia and the French side, I won't even begin with sit down dining recos until I know what style, price point, type of cuisine (traditional or cutting edge) you prefer.

But for creative, haute cuisine pintxos bars, I'd say that La Cuchara de San Telmo, A Fuego Negro (Old Quarter), Bar Bergara, Mil Catas and Alońa Berri (Gros quarter) are my personal favs in S.S.
But there are hundreds, so just go explore.

The newish Victoria Café next to the renovated Teatro Victoria Eugenia is a nice place to sit on the outdoor terrace and people-watch.

For Bilbao our favs in the Old Quarter are the creative pintxos at Gatz (Santa María) and
Bar Bilbao (on Plaza Nueva). We used to like Bertón and Sasibil on Jardines, but hubby says they've gotten too touristy.

In the modern quarter, we go to El Colmado Ibérico (a Mikel reco) or La Vińa del Ensanche for the very finest Iberian ham paired with great wines and El Globo next door for great cazuelitas (dishes in little clay pots).
The Bar Bitoki (Rodríguez Arrias 32) has gotten lots of critical acclaim lately but we haven't been yet. Mikel, have you?

In Hondarribia it's quite easy. Just go to La Marina district and Calle San Pedro-you'll have them all lined up-Gran Sol, Alcanadre, Ignacio (try their tortilla), Enbata.

I will say that since you're staying at MdeR, make SURE the concierge books you for dinner at their signature restaurant, supervised by Francis Paniego of Michelin starred Echaurren, rather than the other dining venue.

And just 7 min. away, right outside Laguardia in tiny Páganos, we love Héctor Oribe, the eponymous restaurant of a Basque chef who has trained with some of the greats. We're headed there in a few weeks. It's a favorite of the area's wine makers as well and is used for many prestigious wine tasting events. www.hectororibe.es

Don't forget to visit the wine bar/gourmet emporium, "La Ermita" up in the tiny village of Elciego, They sell terrific gourmet food items, including our favorite Navarra olive oil from Mendavia, "La Maja", and their wines-by-the-glass prices are unbeatable.

Ask away about the restaurants on your wish list once you've narrowed them down.

www.bitoque.es, with an English!!!! owner and his wife? girlfriend?, they changed a classic bar into the most interesting bar now in Bilbao. They offer ex-tra-or-di-na-ry pintxos at fair prices, and have a great variety of wines. A must in your next visit to Bilbao. I think they´ve been awarded as the best pintxos bar this year in Spain, or something...

that's quite a list! I have more but have to go back and look then re-post with those.

I am working on getting him to learn the stick shift, he just is uncomfortable with it--I hate paying double for it. They have a driving school here where they teach for 90 min, he did that 4 or 5 years ago and I thought it worked fine--we would just jump out at toll booth lines/or once we got into a city and I would drive. I think he's super paranoid because when we were in Portugal 2 years ago, I did all the driving, and even though I can drive a manual and learned to drive on a manual, I had some trouble a few times on a couple blind 60 degree angle intersections, which isn't the case here. I just do not want to drive this entire trip! I am hoping he will do the class though and just save us the money on renting an automatic--I've already over spent a bit on the accommodations!