Help with Normandy Itinerary
Jun 8th, 2012, 01:16 PM
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Help with Normandy Itinerary
Hi all, after reading so much helpful advice on Fodors, I thought I'd present my plan and see what everyone thinks! I am very open to criticism and suggestions.
For background purposes:
We are a family of 4 (kids ages 11 and 8) travelling from Canada for our first European vacation. We land in London on July 14am, are spending 3 days on our own and then join up with a family friendly tour that is covering London, Windsor and Stonehenge, Paris and Versailles in 7 days. Obviously a whirlwind trip, and we will be in serious need of some relaxation time.
We are renting a car in Paris and driving to Normandy on July 23rd, where we have booked accommodations in Branville (not modifiable, 10-15 km SE of Villers-Sur-Mer/Deauville) for 5 nights. We can leave Paris fairly early in the am and can see some things on the way, but won't have any time on the last day as our flight home is at 2pm on July 28th. That leaves 4-5 days.
I'm struggling with the need for down time with the desire to see as much as we can, given that this is probably our only Europe trip for a while! None of us are huge history buffs, and our boys are very active. They are in French immersion in school and I want them to experience France outside of Paris. I'm afraid to overload them with too many historical sites as it will have been a history heavy 10 days up till this point but don't want to have regrets about missing the "must see"s.
Here's what I am thinking:
Day 1: Leave Paris: Stop in Giverny at Monet's House and Gardens for walk through gardens (I’ll get tickets beforehand to avoid the lines) and lunch at the cafe. Drive to Rouen for afternoon and dinner, then on to Branville. 3 hours of driving with the 2 stops according to viamichelin.com (although I’ve read to budget 25% on top of this) but it's broken up. I have ordered the michelin maps of the area and hope to have GPS in our car as well.
Day 2: Relax/play at the resort. We're staying at the Pierre et Vacance in Branville which has a pool and kids activities etc. I will need something for dinner though, hopefully nearby.
Day 3: History day! Drive to Caen (30min), start at the Peace Memorial and then on to the beaches. This is where I am wavering. I'd like to see the Juno ("Canadian") Beach (30min) as I feel it will be more relevant to the boys when they learn about that period in school but it sounds like Point du Hoc may be more memorable. Similarly, I'd like to visit the Canadian cemetery, but wonder if I should chose another. I'd also like to fit in Bayeaux (30min) to see the tapestry and then dinner (la Fringale?), so maybe I'll have to give up the cemetery all together. (1 hour back home) I realize that this is a lot to fit in one day, but didn’t want to drive all the way back another day.
Day 4: Le Val des Cimes (adventure park in the forest, for the boys) near Pont l'Eveque, then a stop along the cheese route (?at Domain st Hippolyte for me!) We are new but keen geocachers, so hope to fit in a find along the way as well. More playing at the resort, then dinner somewhere?
Day 5: Seashore day: Deauville/Trouville for some activity and then relaxing on the beach. We can do a surf lesson in Trouville, or something else. (Maybe a geocache here as well?) Sand-Yachting looks like a ton of fun, but I’m not sure how hard it would be to arrange or the appropriateness for my kids. Up to Honfleur for a walk around and then dinner.
Day 6: Drive to Paris and then home
I’m disappointed to miss out on Mont Saint Michel and Etretat, but each seem like a long drive there and back for one day. We’ve already paid for our accommodations, so we can’t stay overnight in another area. I haven't really figured out most restaurants yet, so if there are any that stand out in the areas we are visiting, I'd love to hear about them.
Thanks in advance for reading (it was a bit longer than I intended) and for any/all help!
For background purposes:
We are a family of 4 (kids ages 11 and 8) travelling from Canada for our first European vacation. We land in London on July 14am, are spending 3 days on our own and then join up with a family friendly tour that is covering London, Windsor and Stonehenge, Paris and Versailles in 7 days. Obviously a whirlwind trip, and we will be in serious need of some relaxation time.
We are renting a car in Paris and driving to Normandy on July 23rd, where we have booked accommodations in Branville (not modifiable, 10-15 km SE of Villers-Sur-Mer/Deauville) for 5 nights. We can leave Paris fairly early in the am and can see some things on the way, but won't have any time on the last day as our flight home is at 2pm on July 28th. That leaves 4-5 days.
I'm struggling with the need for down time with the desire to see as much as we can, given that this is probably our only Europe trip for a while! None of us are huge history buffs, and our boys are very active. They are in French immersion in school and I want them to experience France outside of Paris. I'm afraid to overload them with too many historical sites as it will have been a history heavy 10 days up till this point but don't want to have regrets about missing the "must see"s.
Here's what I am thinking:
Day 1: Leave Paris: Stop in Giverny at Monet's House and Gardens for walk through gardens (I’ll get tickets beforehand to avoid the lines) and lunch at the cafe. Drive to Rouen for afternoon and dinner, then on to Branville. 3 hours of driving with the 2 stops according to viamichelin.com (although I’ve read to budget 25% on top of this) but it's broken up. I have ordered the michelin maps of the area and hope to have GPS in our car as well.
Day 2: Relax/play at the resort. We're staying at the Pierre et Vacance in Branville which has a pool and kids activities etc. I will need something for dinner though, hopefully nearby.
Day 3: History day! Drive to Caen (30min), start at the Peace Memorial and then on to the beaches. This is where I am wavering. I'd like to see the Juno ("Canadian") Beach (30min) as I feel it will be more relevant to the boys when they learn about that period in school but it sounds like Point du Hoc may be more memorable. Similarly, I'd like to visit the Canadian cemetery, but wonder if I should chose another. I'd also like to fit in Bayeaux (30min) to see the tapestry and then dinner (la Fringale?), so maybe I'll have to give up the cemetery all together. (1 hour back home) I realize that this is a lot to fit in one day, but didn’t want to drive all the way back another day.
Day 4: Le Val des Cimes (adventure park in the forest, for the boys) near Pont l'Eveque, then a stop along the cheese route (?at Domain st Hippolyte for me!) We are new but keen geocachers, so hope to fit in a find along the way as well. More playing at the resort, then dinner somewhere?
Day 5: Seashore day: Deauville/Trouville for some activity and then relaxing on the beach. We can do a surf lesson in Trouville, or something else. (Maybe a geocache here as well?) Sand-Yachting looks like a ton of fun, but I’m not sure how hard it would be to arrange or the appropriateness for my kids. Up to Honfleur for a walk around and then dinner.
Day 6: Drive to Paris and then home
I’m disappointed to miss out on Mont Saint Michel and Etretat, but each seem like a long drive there and back for one day. We’ve already paid for our accommodations, so we can’t stay overnight in another area. I haven't really figured out most restaurants yet, so if there are any that stand out in the areas we are visiting, I'd love to hear about them.
Thanks in advance for reading (it was a bit longer than I intended) and for any/all help!
Jun 8th, 2012, 01:25 PM
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Looks pretty good overall. A couple of thoughts:
1. Be prepared for the Mémorial in Caen to eat up a good few hours, even if your kids aren't major museum buffs. My kids were 9 and 12 when we went, and we had to drag them away after half a day.
2.I'd skip Pointe du Hoc. Not sure why you think it would be more memeorable. To me, it's not.
3. It will take you more than 30 minutes to see the Bayeux Tapestry unless you just run by it.
4. Unlike others who have reported here, we did not like La Fringale. We much preferred Le Petit Normand.
5. This is your decision of course, but I never drive back to Paris from anywhere the same day as my flight home. Too many unknowns (and do realize you should be at CDG 3 hours before departure).
Have a great trip!
1. Be prepared for the Mémorial in Caen to eat up a good few hours, even if your kids aren't major museum buffs. My kids were 9 and 12 when we went, and we had to drag them away after half a day.
2.I'd skip Pointe du Hoc. Not sure why you think it would be more memeorable. To me, it's not.
3. It will take you more than 30 minutes to see the Bayeux Tapestry unless you just run by it.
4. Unlike others who have reported here, we did not like La Fringale. We much preferred Le Petit Normand.
5. This is your decision of course, but I never drive back to Paris from anywhere the same day as my flight home. Too many unknowns (and do realize you should be at CDG 3 hours before departure).
Have a great trip!
Jun 8th, 2012, 01:56 PM
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AND we much preferred Le Petite Bistro to Normand.
Arromanches is MUCH more interesting than Pointe du Hoc
Your time for the tapestry is basically "silly".
You seem to have had "history heavy" up to this part of the trip, and then you want them to have some time at the pool, etc.
I think children remain interested as long as they are involved. Can they play in water at home. Can they see war sites at home. Why go to Normandy for amusement parks. Sorry, just not understanding this.
AND agree with St. Cirq about getting to CDG. Traffic happens.
Arromanches is MUCH more interesting than Pointe du Hoc
Your time for the tapestry is basically "silly".
You seem to have had "history heavy" up to this part of the trip, and then you want them to have some time at the pool, etc.
I think children remain interested as long as they are involved. Can they play in water at home. Can they see war sites at home. Why go to Normandy for amusement parks. Sorry, just not understanding this.
AND agree with St. Cirq about getting to CDG. Traffic happens.
Jun 8th, 2012, 02:11 PM
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Mont San michel is about 90 mins from bayeux. In my eyes MSM is best seen from a few miles away.
If you have time maybe take MSM in from a distance. It's great to visit but a fantastic sight from a distance.
The tapestry is historical and interesting but Bayeux town is well worth spending time wandering around.
Deaville and treuville are not lovely beach resorts as they were a hundred years ago.
Enjoy!
If you have time maybe take MSM in from a distance. It's great to visit but a fantastic sight from a distance.
The tapestry is historical and interesting but Bayeux town is well worth spending time wandering around.
Deaville and treuville are not lovely beach resorts as they were a hundred years ago.
Enjoy!
Jun 8th, 2012, 02:40 PM
#6
I would drop the beach but I would try to get to a couple of war museums, they litter the area, my favorite is at St Mere Eglise but have a look around. This is a good site as it links in with "the longest day". Get them to read some of the laid out diaries.
You might also try to understand the Bocage and how, what was basically a bunch of fields, slowed down the troops for so long. Falaise has a similar serious museum.
You might like to visit Fougeres for its castle.
You might also try to understand the Bocage and how, what was basically a bunch of fields, slowed down the troops for so long. Falaise has a similar serious museum.
You might like to visit Fougeres for its castle.
Jun 8th, 2012, 02:50 PM
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Thanks for the suggestions! Just to clarify...the timelines (30min) were my driving times, not my anticipated time at the places. Sorry for the confusion! Maybe I should rethink the beach day...
Jun 8th, 2012, 03:01 PM
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As Canadians you really owe it to yourselves and to your children to visit Juno Beach. With limited time, you should go to Courseulles-sur-Mer to the Juno Beach Centre which tells the story very well. It is right on the beach and the Centre gives guided tours including a German bunker on the beach. In Courseulles don't miss the memorial tank "Bold" which sank during the landings and was pulled out and restored in the early '70s. There are two Canadian War Cemeteries in Normandy, but the closest to the beaches is at Bény-sur-Mer,only about 4km from Courseulles. You can easily take it in with a visit to the Juno Beach Centre.
You really do have too much for a "history day" if you want to take in the Caen Memorial, Juno Beach and Bayeux. With travel time you can do two in one day. I have been to all of them several times and they are all well worth seeing. If you can see the Bayeux Tapestry without a wait then do it, but otherwise just stroll around the town--very picturesque.
Here's some information on the Juno Beach Centre and Bény-sur-Mer.
http://www.junobeach.org/centre/index.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/B%C3%A9...n_War_Cemetery
http://www.cwgc.org/find-a-cemetery/...ERY,%20REVIERS
You really do have too much for a "history day" if you want to take in the Caen Memorial, Juno Beach and Bayeux. With travel time you can do two in one day. I have been to all of them several times and they are all well worth seeing. If you can see the Bayeux Tapestry without a wait then do it, but otherwise just stroll around the town--very picturesque.
Here's some information on the Juno Beach Centre and Bény-sur-Mer.
http://www.junobeach.org/centre/index.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/B%C3%A9...n_War_Cemetery
http://www.cwgc.org/find-a-cemetery/...ERY,%20REVIERS
Jun 8th, 2012, 03:26 PM
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The beach day is iffy at best so you should have a back-up plan.
I understand the need for a pool with kids and some downtime.
I love St Mere Eglise, it is such a quaint town with so much history.
Bayeaux is a great town to explore also. The Tapestry was a bit dull for me, but that is just my opinion.
All the memorials are wonderful, you really can't go wrong. There is something about standing on the cliff at low tide and looking out at the vast distances the soldiers had to conquer before they could get some coverage from gunshots.
Have fun, drive around the pretty towns and enjoy yourself.
I will tell you that one of my dh's dearest dreams is to wake up super early at like 3:00am and go out to the forests so he can feel what it must have been like to land there by parachute. We are going back in June 2014 so he can do just that, I of course will remain sleeping.
I understand the need for a pool with kids and some downtime.
I love St Mere Eglise, it is such a quaint town with so much history.
Bayeaux is a great town to explore also. The Tapestry was a bit dull for me, but that is just my opinion.
All the memorials are wonderful, you really can't go wrong. There is something about standing on the cliff at low tide and looking out at the vast distances the soldiers had to conquer before they could get some coverage from gunshots.
Have fun, drive around the pretty towns and enjoy yourself.
I will tell you that one of my dh's dearest dreams is to wake up super early at like 3:00am and go out to the forests so he can feel what it must have been like to land there by parachute. We are going back in June 2014 so he can do just that, I of course will remain sleeping.
Jun 8th, 2012, 04:57 PM
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La Fringale was very nice, my best meal in France and there were children eating there. Being Canadian I would skip Caen and head for Juno. There are museums all over and we just had to pick and choose or we would have been inside all day. We saw almost everything in three days. The American cemetery and Omaha Beach were my favorites. The museum there was very good. We also went to a German cemetery, La Cambe, the ages of those young men really stood out to me. They were so young. Pointe du Hoc, what the Rangers did there is what it is all about. It is something to behold. We stayed in Bayeux and never saw the Tapestry. The Cathedral is beautiful and the town very charming. Driving there was very easy and well marked. St Mere Eglise was very interesting to me because my Dad was a paratrooper but that is a long drive from where you are staying. We have plans but always see something interesting and our plans are gone. That is why it is a vacation. If the place they made the caramels had been open I would have gone. It is a beautiful area.
Jun 11th, 2012, 02:51 AM
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OK, reworking things. Will move Bayeaux and the tapestry to day 2 afternoon, leaving more time for the d-day beaches and museums on day 3. Will maybe move Honfleur and dinner to day 4. Rethinking day 5 entirely. Is it possible or even desirable to do MSM in a day? We'd leave planning to get there for the late afternoon, tide and then to see it at night? My husband would would be fine to drive back late. If too much for one day, what to add? Thanks!
Jun 11th, 2012, 03:54 AM
#12
On MSM, it can be lovely but on a wet day or if there are tons of other tourists it can be a bit off. I'd plan to go but do the whole early start thing and have a visit to Fougeres as a back up
http://www.chateau-fougeres.com/
http://www.chateau-fougeres.com/
Jun 11th, 2012, 05:24 AM
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And actually the cathedral at Bayeux (OP, this is the correct spelling) has a pretty poignant history to tell for the war.
I agree with the person that said "museums litter the landscape", BUT they are not all created equal. CHOOSE carefully. True St. Mere Eglise is really interesting for the gliders (it will amaze you and the children that men actually trusted their lives to plywood and canvas "airplanes"--they were made in my hometown in Ohio.
BUT St. Mere Eglise is a bit up the coast, and a bit of an outlier for this itinerary.
The museum at Arromanches is totally fascinating--building a floating seaport and floating it over to France!! an engineering feat.
There are many tiny little "museums" along the road. Don't bother. Go to the main beaches, sites.
The DDay beaches are truly a wonder to man's bravery.
I agree with the person that said "museums litter the landscape", BUT they are not all created equal. CHOOSE carefully. True St. Mere Eglise is really interesting for the gliders (it will amaze you and the children that men actually trusted their lives to plywood and canvas "airplanes"--they were made in my hometown in Ohio.
BUT St. Mere Eglise is a bit up the coast, and a bit of an outlier for this itinerary.
The museum at Arromanches is totally fascinating--building a floating seaport and floating it over to France!! an engineering feat.
There are many tiny little "museums" along the road. Don't bother. Go to the main beaches, sites.
The DDay beaches are truly a wonder to man's bravery.
Jun 11th, 2012, 05:45 AM
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Sounds like a great trip! You mention that your kids are "very active", so I would warn you that the tapestry at Bayeux could well be very boring for them. It winds through a long narrow space purpose-built for its display, rather dimly lit for preservation purposes and placed partway up the wall (adult viewing height; it's not very tall). If you can get the boys interested in the story of William the Conqueror and what he did for France and England - and also why the tapestry is so amazing for the day and age when it was created - it will go a lot better for them!
The cathedral is beautiful, and has such an ancient connection to the area (and to war!).
I may be in the minority here, but IMO, Mont St. Michel is very pretty but there's not a lot to *do* there. If you can get over to it without sitting in a lot of traffic, great. But otherwise, I'd suggest having a Plan B where you can see it from the coast but not cross over... I remember that there was an excellent trip report related to the area, posted a number of years ago. If I can somehow find it, I'll add a link!
The cathedral is beautiful, and has such an ancient connection to the area (and to war!).
I may be in the minority here, but IMO, Mont St. Michel is very pretty but there's not a lot to *do* there. If you can get over to it without sitting in a lot of traffic, great. But otherwise, I'd suggest having a Plan B where you can see it from the coast but not cross over... I remember that there was an excellent trip report related to the area, posted a number of years ago. If I can somehow find it, I'll add a link!
Jun 11th, 2012, 05:49 AM
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We did a river cruise from Paris to Normandy, visiting many of the sites that you are interested in. You can see my blog on it at http://jackthetravelingman-seine.blogspot.com. If I were to go as far as Mont St Michel, I would also consider St. Malo.
Jun 11th, 2012, 06:26 AM
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Instead of worrying how and when to see everything on your list just take things at an easy pace and see what you can. Go with the flow. You've got plenty of activities on your list and they all seem good. Unlike a lot of itineraries I've seen people post yours is very well thought out, well researched and doable. The only thing I'd add is to get some input from the kids and see what they'd like to do the most. I bet they'll love the tapestry museum. The audio guided commentary really brings it to life and upstairs in the museum there is some really interesting stuff relating to the William the Conqueror invasion. I've been there with teens who really enjoyed it.
Since you mentioned Saint Hippolyte (I loved my visit there) I'll give you a link to a thread that covers things to see and do in the Pays d'Auge and that general region of Normandy. It's got links to lots of tourist websites that might give you some other ideas for that area:
http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowTopic....html#39058384
Since you mentioned Saint Hippolyte (I loved my visit there) I'll give you a link to a thread that covers things to see and do in the Pays d'Auge and that general region of Normandy. It's got links to lots of tourist websites that might give you some other ideas for that area:
http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowTopic....html#39058384
Jun 11th, 2012, 06:37 AM
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I totally agree about MSM, and maybe talk about something that will not really be "much" to chldren.
As always, FrenchMystique has good advice.
I have found that kids can often find things that are interesting that we overlook--or think won't be. We had
VERY active children, but that just made them look for more
"stuff" to do!!
As always, FrenchMystique has good advice.
I have found that kids can often find things that are interesting that we overlook--or think won't be. We had
VERY active children, but that just made them look for more
"stuff" to do!!
Jun 11th, 2012, 08:01 AM
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Sadly, I can't find the trip report that I thought I remembered! However, in searching for it, I found a bunch of posts that may be of interest to you - at least the Normandy bits... (My search was for the years 2006-09, since that's when I thought I read the memorable report.)
In reverse chronological order (as that's how they occur in the search results):
Trip Report: Four Days for Normandy (Aug 08)
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...r-normandy.cfm
Trip Report: Normandy and Paris (Jun 07)
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...-and-paris.cfm
France with 10 year old boys (Mar 08)
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...r-old-boys.cfm
Normandy with Kids (Apr 08)
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...-with-kids.cfm
Visiting Normandy (D-Day) beaches site - best way? (Nov 07)
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...--best-way.cfm
A Normandy phototravelogue (Oct 07)
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...travelogue.cfm
Quickie Trip Report (May 07)
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...rip-report.cfm
1st trip to France: our (kinda long) trip report (Jul 07)
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...rip-report.cfm
Suggestion for Last Night Enroute from Normandy to CDG (Jun 07)
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...ndy-to-cdg.cfm
Trip report-my first trip to France! (May 07: 3 links)
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...nce-part-3.cfm
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...nce-part-2.cfm
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...-to-france.cfm
It's hot, but it's Europe: travels from Amsterdam to Paris, tiptoeing through the heat wave (Aug 06)
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...-heat-wave.cfm
Normandy and Brittany: to eat (May 06)
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...tay-to-eat.cfm
Sightseeing with kids in Paris and Northern France (Jan 06)
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...ern-france.cfm
// Also, FWIW Stu_Dudley provides detailed itineraries for places he's frequented. Here's the post he created earlier this year for Normandy and Brittany; just ignore the snarky comments!
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...-itinerary.cfm
In reverse chronological order (as that's how they occur in the search results):
Trip Report: Four Days for Normandy (Aug 08)
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...r-normandy.cfm
Trip Report: Normandy and Paris (Jun 07)
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...-and-paris.cfm
France with 10 year old boys (Mar 08)
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...r-old-boys.cfm
Normandy with Kids (Apr 08)
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...-with-kids.cfm
Visiting Normandy (D-Day) beaches site - best way? (Nov 07)
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...--best-way.cfm
A Normandy phototravelogue (Oct 07)
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...travelogue.cfm
Quickie Trip Report (May 07)
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...rip-report.cfm
1st trip to France: our (kinda long) trip report (Jul 07)
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...rip-report.cfm
Suggestion for Last Night Enroute from Normandy to CDG (Jun 07)
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...ndy-to-cdg.cfm
Trip report-my first trip to France! (May 07: 3 links)
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...nce-part-3.cfm
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...nce-part-2.cfm
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...-to-france.cfm
It's hot, but it's Europe: travels from Amsterdam to Paris, tiptoeing through the heat wave (Aug 06)
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...-heat-wave.cfm
Normandy and Brittany: to eat (May 06)
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...tay-to-eat.cfm
Sightseeing with kids in Paris and Northern France (Jan 06)
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...ern-france.cfm
// Also, FWIW Stu_Dudley provides detailed itineraries for places he's frequented. Here's the post he created earlier this year for Normandy and Brittany; just ignore the snarky comments!
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...-itinerary.cfm
Jun 12th, 2012, 06:42 AM
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Ok, now more reading. My Michelin green guides have arrived and I will check out those trip reports. I think I've seen some of them, but I don't think I went back as far as 2006. Thank you everyone for all your help, and especially to Gretchen for pointing out my spelling error (what a faux pas!) I will take the advice not to over plan, and try to "go with the flow" a bit. Thanks again everyone!
