leslieq

In a previous post I asked about where to spend 5 nights between Bruges and Amsterdam (flying out of Amsterdam) in May, 2019. I was entranced by the idea of staying in Monschau and hiking in the Eifel National Park. After further research I realize that the Rhine between Koblenz and Bingen might be better suited to what we love to do – hike/walk (especially along a beautiful river) and visit small towns and castles. Most of the posts I’ve read are from people cruising along the Rhine. While it would be fun to spend some time on a boat trip, we’d like to find a town (or two?) to establish a base and take day trips along the river from there.Some thoughts/questions:
1. Should we spend all five nights along the Rhine, or split the nights (maybe 2 in Monschau and 3 along the Rhine)?
2. If we spend all five nights along the Rhine, where is the best base? Some people have recommended Boppard. If we do spend all 5 nights along the Rhine, should we split the time between two towns on either side of the river?
3. It looks like the drive from Bruges to Boppard is about 4.5 hours. Are there good train connections as well? And likewise can we get from Boppard (for example) to Amsterdam by train? I’m trying to avoid renting a car but am open to if public transit is too complicated
4. Can someone recommend some walks/hikes along the river? We’re fit and hike 10-12 miles at home, but not sure if the river walks involve significant elevation gains. We just walked 16 miles along the Thames, but that’s flat! My husband is getting a sore knee…
This is all preliminary planning and dreaming for next May, so thing will likely change as I get ideas from the helpful people on Fodor’s! Thanks in advance, Leslie

bilboburgler

I'd rather walk along the Mosel which joins the Rhine at Koblenz. There are walks along the cliffs, there are some nice castles and bike paths along the river, with train and boat alternatives. https://www.rome2rio.com/ gives you a good idea of how to get about around the world but for trains bahn.de is perfect.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eltz_Castle
https://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/d...hts-Trail.html
https://www.mosel-inside.de/en/activ...ing-mosel.html

isabel

We did a week trip several years ago. Based in Boppard. Day trips by train, one day by boat. One day we went to the Mosel valley. Here is the trip report I wrote including info on the great place we stayed in Boppard.

Rhine and Mosel Valley Photos and mini trip report

The photos are now at: https://andiamo.zenfolio.com/p164122480

PalenQ

Another vote for Mosel for walking in a more lovely rural setting - Rhine Gorge is rather busy - maybe do a few days of each - check out Cochem for a great Mosel base - if driving you can motor along river and park and walk or take buses. Great walk is up to Burg Eltz, one of Germany's most famous castles - from Moselkern on Mosel with train service. And I have done several walks in Cochem area - one leads up to a ruined castle overlooking Mosel from its perched location.

Cochem:

https://www.google.com/search?q=coch...w=1259&bih=613

Mosel Valley:

https://www.google.com/search?q=mose...hrome&ie=UTF-8

bigtyke

Most town websites have a WANDERN section. Tourist offices will have info and maps.

Rhein-nahe-touristik.de lists 6 walks from Bacharach,

PalenQ

And for flat walks, there are walking paths on both sides of the river practically the whole way (except for sheer cliffs like Lorelei).

Sue81

Palen, If you go to Boppard, there is an interesting little cloth/tablecloth/accessories shop right on the main square, where there is a metal sculpture/fountain. If you are into this sort of thing, I picked up some reasonably priced little tablecloths, and unique little items in there. It is on a corner, next to a little restaurant where I had coffee. Sue

scdreamer

Spent the better part of a week in the small village of Ellenz-Poltersdorf along the Mosel this past August, and it was great. Beautiful river walks, vineyards everywhere, and castles, too. We had a car, but there are buses that can take you to the other villages nearby, including Cochem. Highly recommended.

Fussgaenger

"I’m trying to avoid renting a car..."

Monschau is NOT a good destination for you in that case.

The Mosel is nice too, but the Rhine is more dramatic and somewhat easier to visit by train.

"Some people have recommended Boppard."

With good reason! It has a broad selection of hotels, apartments, and restaurants, an attractive river promenade, and good access by train to the other Rhine destinations and sights. It's also a good base if you are considering a day trip over to the Mosel River. St. Goar (smaller, just south of Boppard) is a little further from the Mosel but also a good base for train travelers.

"If we do spend all 5 nights along the Rhine, should we split the time between two towns on either side of the river?"

No reason to do that. If you stay in Boppard or St. Goar there are ferry crossings that run most of the day and allow you to visit towns, castles, etc. on the other side of the river (St. Goar is better for this because the ferry dock across the river is so close to the train station.)

" ...if public transit is too complicated "

Except for ticketing, the transportation on the Rhine is uncomplicated and efficient. Trains run north and south along both sides of the Rhine:

West bank train stops: https://www.mittelrheinbahn.de/assets/images/6/MRB_Karte_Streckennetz_2018-66058e06.svg
East bank train stops: http://www.vias-online.de/data/9_netzplan_rhg.jpg

There are day passes and 3-day passes for the Rhine and Mosel region for getting around by train - you can just buy them at the station as you go - the only trick is getting the right one for the trips you intend to make.

" Can someone recommend some walks/hikes along the river?"

The best hikes aren't next to the river but along the clifftop trails where you have fantastic views. The Rhine Castle trail (Rheinburgenweg) and the Rheinsteig trail are tops and are both doable with your hiking habits. Note that you can hike one way (from St. Goar to Oberwesel for example) and then take the train back.

https://www.romantic-germany.info/index.php?id=2942
https://www.romantic-germany.info/th...insteig-trail/

PalenQ

You can easily get around via boat, trains and buses on the Rhine and around Cochem and to Burg Eltz - for lots on trains and transports and the area check www.bahn.de/en - German Railways official site - www.seat61.com; BETS-European Rail Experts and www.ricksteves.com. check out local regional passes where both up to several can travel unlimited on regional trains and buses the whole days (not sure about boats) - check www.k-d.com for info on boats thru Rhine Gorge - get on and off and spend the whole day.

leslieq

What a wealth of information!! New to me is the suggestion to base around Cochem and walk along the Mosel instead of (?) of maybe in addition to the Rhine around Boppard.

Isabel, what a fantastic trip report. Nothing like seeing what someone else has done.

I'm going to take a few days to read and research these suggestions and may have a few more questions.

THANK YOU so much for the great responses. I just love Fodors...you always find great people who take time to suggest things.

Leslie

leslieq

To all of you who helped me with the decision about where to stay along the Rhine... I have booked two nights in Cochem at the Alte Torschenke and three nights at the Bellevue Rheinhotel in Boppard. There seemed compelling reasons to visit both the Mosel and the Rhine so I split the difference.

Thanks again for all the great advice. Am sure there will be more questions closer to our actual trip in May.

PalenQ

3. It looks like the drive from Bruges to Boppard is about 4.5 hours. Are there good train connections as well? And likewise can we get from Boppard (for example) to Amsterdam by train? I’m trying to avoid renting a car but am open to if public transit is too complicated>

Go to www.bahn.de/en for schedules and details about rail travel Bruges to Boppard - fastest connections take about 5 to 5.5 hours and go via Cologne, where you could build in a few-hour stop to see the world-famous cathedral right next to the train station (luggage storage in station) - easy to do. Book tickets at www.bahn.de/en and get discounted fares if book early enough to get those limited in number discounted tickets.

You will love Cochem and Mosel - very different from Rhine - as Germans say the Father Rhine and Mother Mosel two differentiate between the two rivers - the Rhine in the Rhine Gorge - narrowest part of Rhine in Germany - flows fast- the Mosel due to both it looping so much as well as being damned up at places is more languid -its slopes are covered in southward facing spots with vineyards - making ton many a more romantic scene. And you need no car - boats and trains and buses go everywhere.

leslieq

Thanks PalenQ….I did check the German train site and it looks like I have to wait until December 8 to actually book tickets, but can at least search for times:You can currently only search for connections and book tickets for the period up until 8 December 2018. The new timetable will come into effect on 10 December and is available from 16 October.

PalenQ

Once in Cochem/Rhine for trains there just buy cheap Lander Tickets that allow unlimited travel on regional trains and buses for a day for about 30-35 euros for both.