Help with Itinerary - Seville/San Sebastian
 

My husband and I visited Barcelona (with some day trips to Rupit, wine tasting, Montjuic)for eight nights back in 2008 and fell in love. We have decided semi-last minute to go back to Spain for what will probably be our last big trip for a while. To cut to the point, I am having a really difficult time settling on where I want to go. I have a bad habit of jamming my trips with too much traveling in an effort to see everything, without really spending too much time in one place - and I want to avoid that to a certain extent. I just found Spain so magical and I want to visit every place I read about. I feel like a five year old in a candy store. I've gone through probably five itineraries already and convinced myself it was the right one, before I read about another location and everything becomes a mess again Here's where I could use some sound advice. The overview:
- Traveling late August/early September for up to 13 nights. I know it will be hot in the south.
- About us: Late 20s/early 30s. Both New Yorkers and we like to keep busy. Total foodies - I mean literally to the point where I will drive pretty much anywhere if I think its warranted. With that being said, I'm going to try to keep the super-pricey (100euro + pp) meals to a minimum. We like museums to an extent, but not really too into art. Neither one of us are into going to museums all day every day. Very into interesting cities/towns with extensive history - we absolutely loved Rome for its deep history, but with the risk of sounding classless, didn't love all the art in Florence.
- Must visit: San Sebastian and to keep it vague, somewhere in southern Spain. I know they are on totally different parts of the maps, but I'm hoping that with flights from Seville into Bilbao or Madrid/Barcelona into San Sebastian, we can swing this somehow. I know a few people who have been there and it just sounds totally up my alley (already dreaming about pinxto hopping). So that's a non-negotiable. Also want to see some of the "other" part of Spain. I keep settling on Seville, but I can't tell if its because I'm really most enticed by it or if I just hear about it more than everywhere else.
- Would like to visit: Granada and Madrid.
- If I somehow manage to squeeze in a night in Barcelona (say, at the tail end after San Sebastian to fly back to NY), that's a plus, but obviously not a necessity. I'd like to go back to Cal Pep and wander around.
- Logistically, we are flying on miles (United) so have to fly into Madrid or Barcelona. Could fly into to Seville in a worst case scenario, but options are not pretty (two layovers, though short enough, would cause us to travel upwards of 15+ hours and probably be exhausted).

One of the thoughts was fly into Madrid, spend 4 nights, train to Seville, spend 4 nights, fly to Bilbao, spend the day and/or night and bus to San Sebastian for 2-3 nights, then fly to Barcelona and spend the final night or two just revisiting some old favorites. I figured this leaves some time for day trips out of Madrid and Seville, but I'm not sure if the back end is too hectic and given the choice, I'd switch out Barcelona for Grenada.

Was then thinking maybe cut out the Madrid portion all together, and just take a quick detour to San Sebastian from Seville.

Apologies for being all over the board (or map) here - any advice would be greatly appreciated! Thanks.

Honestly with 13 days I'd skip trying to visit Madrid. You've chosen 2 of my favorite areas of Spain. I'd save Madrid for a future trip as if you're going to head to the Basque Country why not give it more than just 2-3 nights. Madrid will fit in easier with future trips.

With 13 days I'd do a minimum of 6 nights in Andalucia, 4 in Sevilla and 2 in Granada. I'd definately visit Cordoba as a daytrip from Sevilla. I wouldn't miss Granada for a first trip to this area. You could easily add more time to Sevilla and do additional daytrips or add a couple of nights and visit the white villages between Sevilla and Granada (rent a car). But at the minimum I'd do 6 nights.

That would leave a max of 7 nights in the Basque Country, which is so much more than San Sebastian (which is incredible in itself). If you have to return to Barcelona for your final night then this really just leaves you with 6 nights. I'd visit San Sebastian a minimum of 4 nights, enough to enjoy the city and also do 1-2 daytrips. For the other 2 nights you could do 1 of several things - 2 nights Bilbao (an often under-appreciated city), 2 nights coastal village (may be a nice change of pace), or a combination of nights in Pamplona, Vitoria or an interior village.


If you are such foodies, you may consider spending the entire 13 nights in the Basque Country and combining with La Rioja saving Madrid and Andalucia for another trip (even though it may be a while).

You're correct to resist the urge to try to visit too many places especially if you like to enjoy the local food and culture.

Cathy, thanks so much for your reply. I really like your idea on how to split the trip and am thinking I will do just what you suggested - 2 nights Granada, 4 nights Seville with a day trip to Cordoba and maybe Ronda, and then fly north. I am thinking of doing 4 nights in San Sebastian and 2 nights elsewhere. Do you think renting a car for a day trip to Rioja is doable from San Sebastian? It looks to be about 2 hours away. Part of me just wants to base in San Sebastian for 6 nights and just rent a car and do a lot of day trips.

Still having some trouble with all the logistics. It looks like I'll be flying into and out of Barcelona since the flights from NY are terrible to Seville. I can fly out of NY to arrive at BCN in the morning. I would really like to start in Andalucia and end up north, but because of the flight options it has been difficult. I would end up sitting around in Barcelona for upwards of 4+ hours (not really enough to leave the airport) after a night of flying, to then fly into Granada. I'd have maybe half a day there if I'm not totally jetlagged, and then the following day/night to see the Alhambra. Then I'll train it to Seville for 4 nights, fly into Bilbao and bus straight to San Sebastian (probably not going to spend the night there - don't think I'd enjoy the Guggenheim much and I'm much more excited about San Seb.) Then I could fly back to BCN to leave. Other option is do it backwards - fly into BCN, over to San Seb, fly out of Bilbao to Seville, train to Granada, and fly back to BCN to leave. Seems like so many transfers but I can't think of a better way, and options from Madrid don't look much better (and on a side note, flights from Madrid to Granada are much pricier than from Barcelona for some reason). Thanks again for all your input!

i second what CathyM says! Madrid will definitely be the low point of your trip, so you could just cut it out and fit in more pintxos ;) no one's ever regretted staying in san sebastián

we love love love seville. it's a college town that feels like a village somehow. tons of history. lovely river and bridges. wonderful walking city. just love it and can't wait to return.

you mention that you would drive anywhere for food-- have you thought about driving one of your legs? might be worth the drop-off fee if it makes it easier to get to where you want to go. (and we found the roads throughout spain to be wonderful and well kept.)

Only one caveat.

If you plan to visit San Sebastian in August, it will be very, very busy with Spanish, French and Northern European visitors,. not to mention the odd North American tourist. It is probably the most visited resort on the whole northern coast.

That, I imagine, will continue into the weekend of 1 - 2 September.

There will be the obvious knock-on effects for hotel room availability and prices.

Thanks all! Here is the final plan:
- Fly into BCN from JFK, arrive 7:45am. Two nights (we already spent 8 nights here a few years ago)
- Early flight to Granada, arrive 8am. Two nights - Alhambra the second morning at 8:30am.
- Train to Seville in morning. Four nights. Day trip to white villages (via Paul McGrath), 1/2 day to Cordoba.
- Fly to San Sebastian. Four nights. *This is where we are planning on renting a car. Truthfully I know the parking is expensive but I am a slave to commuting 3 1/2 hrs a day to Manhattan and not having to deal with train schedules is a real luxury to me.
Day trip to Hondarribbia/St Jean de Luz and not sure where else yet. TonyBishop, we were able to get a new room at Pension Aia with private bath for 80 Euro. We have a lunch reservation at Akellare which I am debating back and forth about. Fly out of Bilbao. I toyed around with staying the last night in Bilbao since we have an early flight but the Guggenheim doesn't get me that excited (we have one in NY), and there are a lot of other places I'm interested in.

If you have any tips, they'd be greatly appreciated! Thanks everyone for your input.

Sounds like a good plan, Sevilla and San Sebastián are both fabulous cities and very different. Stay with the lunch reservation at Akelarre, could be something like this (and the views from up here is unbeatable): http://gastronomyblog.com/2010/06/04...san-sebastian/

Possible daytrips:
Fabulous fish and seafood in all of the restaurants down in the harbour area in tiny Getaria just west of San Sebastián. Had the meal of my life here, something like this: http://thepauperedchef.com/node/255

I also always take first time vistors to the area to a lunch in pictoresque Donibane/San Juan some 5 km east of San Sebastián. Excellent seafood restaurants at the waterfront with great value three course lunch menus with wine included for some 15-20€. The local fish soup is to die for. The bus leaves from Plaza de Guipúzcoa in Central San Sebastián about once an hour and takes some 30 mins. Or you can walk in a couple of hours along the stunning coastline over Monte Ulia. http://www.euroresidentes.com/eurore...s/san-juan.htm

Restaurante Txulotxo: http://www.restaurantetxulotxo.com/index.html

All six restaurants in Donibane: http://www.etxekar.net/donigastronomia.html#

And all about going for the famous pintxos in San Sebastián: http://www.todopintxos.com/home/home.php?lang=en

When it comes to Sevilla, Azahar lives here and has got excellent suggestions on tapas bars and restaurants by district. She knows what she's talking about. Be sure to go to places outside the beautiful but very touristy Santa Cruz district. http://azahar-sevilla.com/sevilletapas/
Some of my favourites:
Eslava: http://azahar-sevilla.com/sevilletapas/category/eslava/
Dos de Mayo (just down the street from Eslava): http://azahar-sevilla.com/sevilletap...a-dos-de-mayo/
Enrique Becerra: http://azahar-sevilla.com/sevilletap...rique-becerra/
Primera del Puente (in lovely Triana, just across the city river Guadalquivir): http://azahar-sevilla.com/sevilletap...ra-del-puente/
El Rinconcillo (from 1670): http://azahar-sevilla.com/sevilletap...l-rinconcillo/
And everybody speaks very nice of Vineria San Telmo: http://azahar-sevilla.com/sevilletap...ria-san-telmo/

You should also note that the world's largest and most prestigious flamenco festival goes on in Sevilla from Sept 3 to 30: http://www.flamenco-world.com/notici...l23052012.html

If you're out of town when the Bienal starts, you can experience real deal flamenco at intimate Casa de la Memoria in the midst of the Santa Cruz district. Popular with tourists, but only top artists perform here. Should give you an idea of the beauty of this art so typical of Sevilla and Andalucia: http://www.tripadvisor.com/Attractio...Andalucia.html

Sounds good although not a relaxing trip. With four nights in San Sebastian I probably wouldn't leave town more than once, it's really quite nice. I second the idea of lunch in Getaria.

when you go to seville, don't miss two of our favorite sweet treat places--
for churros y chocolate spots... the very 'chain restaurant' looking picatoste which will be filled with locals before and after work....had the fancy, historic and expensive churros and this one was superior to all (for us.)

also, one of our new favorite ice cream places, La FiorenFina. Unbelievable flavor combinations (like "Aztec" chocolate/jalapeno -- and very sweet owner.

just looked up 'Hondarribbia' to see where that was from s. s. and it seems to be a town that i visited (and loved) called fuenterrabia. when did it officially become 'hondarribbia' -- anyone know? i was there 30 years ago-- and remember it as a quiet, charming town worthy of spending some serious relaxation time in.

@kawh. Hondarribia is the Basque name for the town. Fuenterrabía (French: Fontarrabie) is the Spanish name.

Just got back from my 3-week Spanish vacation on Tuesday (wahhh!). Ended my trip in Bilbao. Did day trips to both Hondarribia & Lekeitio. Both were really nice to visit but if you get a nice sunny day, I say head out to Lekeitio (and area, if you can. There's so many little hidden beaches around) so you can check out the beaches then go pintxos hopping along the harbour.

Regarding Bilbao, I enjoyed my time there! Maybe because I liked the nightlife and found it way more interesting than San Sebastian nightlife. San Sebastian is as pretty as people say it is, and is full of food everywhere (I was lucky enough to have 2 chefs from a popular pintxos bar show me around!). Just pray for a sunny day, it really makes a difference.

Ate at Vineria San Telmo in Seville. It's really good. There were 3 of us, so we ordered as much tapas as we can to taste everything. Get your hotel to make reservations for you as it gets packed (the later you wait, the more packed it becomes).

thanks, tonybishop!

marking - this is great. We are thinking about doing the same area next year, so I want to be able to find this thread again!

Yes, thanks so much - really appreciate all the info!

This is a very useful thread. I appreciate all of the input. I will be heading to Barcelona, SS and Sevilla in late October/early November and hope to make use of these tips.

This is really helpful! We're going in May and plan to do something similar in reverse. We'll fly into Madrid and go right to San Sebastian by car with a stop in La Rioja. Then, 6 days in San Sebastian with day trips to the places you recommend. Then we fly to Granada for 4 days and then on to Seville for 4 days. Then out of Madrid. Does this sound ok?