Help with Crete Itinerary
 

I need some help with planning 6 nights on Crete. We are a multi-generational party of 7 ranging from elementary age to teenagers, to fun-loving adults/parents/great aunt. We don't want to move nightly, but every two nights would be fine if the experience is worthwhile. My idea is to spend two nights in a "traditional village" such as Milia or Vamos, two nights in secluded Loutros Bay and two nights at the Ammos hotel near Chania. We are not interested in all-inclusives or luxury resorts as we can rent jet skis in the States or Mexico with a two hour flight. We want more of an authentic Greek experience on Crete. How would you spend your time?

I haven't been to Loutro, but suspect it would be very special. It's also quite remote, so 2 days would probably do for your mixed group. Were you to by pass Loutro I might suggest 3 days in Paleochora and 3 in Chania, to restrict your moving about. Paleochora IS a traditional village but has lots of restaurants and some nice shops and would probably suit all your needs in one place.

Chania is just a grown up version of the same.


I have to say that you should not miss the chance to see Knossos and the museum in Iraklion. Both are wonderful.

That's an idea. I've heard they have nice beaches in that area. Will wind be a problem in July? Do you have any charming lodging suggestions in Paleochora? A "restored" sort of place, preferably with a pool or on the water so the wee ones can have a swim in the evening while the adults unwind.

This place was amazing:

http://i-escape.com/hotel.php?hotel_key=GR034

I'm not going to lie, the surrounding towns aren't so great. Sitia, Vai Beach, Xakros, etc. But what is great are the day trips available to you. I have a not complete Crete trip report here, if you click my screen name you should be able to find it.

I meant Sitia, etc. are the great day trips!

I did a day boat trip that stopped in Loutro, very cute, but we walked the town in 20-30 min. I imagine in 2 nights you would want to rent a boat and go to beaches.

Dear Sheila Ritchie, the Iraklion Museum is CLOSED for repairs.

AP6380...I actually had my eye on the White River Cottages. That's exactly the kind of place we're looking for. How far is that from the Knossos sight? I couldn't find your Crete trip report. Any other ideas on how to get to it/

We stayed at Milia Traditional Villages
http://www.ellada.net/mhlia/ and loved it. Its a beautiful drive from Chania, first along the coast and then inland thru a gorge. There are some interesting sites along the way. The settlement itself has its own dining room, but beyond that there is not much there. Gorgeous setting in the mountains and some hikes can be done from Milia. It did seem to have a fair number of multi-generational families staying there. People who run it are exceedingly helpful and the food at the restaurant was quite good. It was a very different and enjoyable place to stay for a couple days.

Damn! I forgot about the museum. No date for the re-opening yet?

I Love the Harbour Apartments in Paleochora. You can't get much further from there to Makriyialos and still keep your feet dry:) Olive Tree Cottages is the closest equivalent I know of.

Palechora is not well serves with old style hotels. The Galros is the one most Brits choose.

Here it is:

http://fodors.com/forums/threadselec...p;tid=34837825

A really gorgeous day trip from White River cottages is to the beach at Xerocombos. The country roads and mountain views and the beach were beautiful.

Also I recommend having dinner in the mountain town of Pefki, White River can make the reservation. There is traditional dancing and a multi-course meal.

Crete is an enigma to me. I'm having a very difficult time with our itinerary there. It seems to have so much yet there are so many warnings about where not to go. The feedback is pretty consistent in terms of "stay to the west," but I can't imagine not seeing Knossos while in Crete. Or for that matter, there are many other sites in south central Crete which look really worthwhile, but not so easy to get to from Chania. HELP!

I thik your problem, ddg is that you're trying to do too much in 6 days. I've been to Crete 5 times, 3 times for a fortnight and twice for a week.

It's a bi island. It takes all day to drive from the south west to the North east.

The only bit to "avoid" seriously is the chunk around Malia immediately to the east of Irkalion with is lager lout territory. Even it contains one of the great Minoan Palaces.

So, given you've only got 6 days, I'd say, stick to the west. You can go to the east next time.

I'm a lover of archaeological sites & wasn't too fascinated by Knossos.

Another vote for southwest Crete. My wife and I loved Loutro. I did not find four nights there excessive. You can relax, hike, rent a kayak, go swimming, or take the ferry to another coastal village, and the quiet evenings are enchanting. If you find Loutro too difficult to get to (remember, you cannot drive in), then I would suggest Paleochora as an alternative.

And I would agree with AP in that I found Knossos to be a disappointment. But the (now closed for renovation) archaeological museum was wonderful. Another highlight of Iraklion was walking the eastern portion of the Venetian wall.

And Chania...well! As sheila says, so much in so little time.

JQ

We stayed at Ammos for 5 nights last Sept. Don't know if it qualifies for an "authentic Greek experience", but one of the daytrips we took was to Gramvousa Island and it was the highlight of my time in Crete. It entailed about an hour drive west to catch a ferry. The ferry stopped for a few/couple of hours--time enough to climb to the top where there is an old pirate fort with fantastic views. (It was a bit of a hike, with people of all ages making it to the top.) Once down from the hike, there was just a little bit of time to swim at the beach. Then it was back to the ferry for lunch and a stop at a lagoon on another island, which was rather boring. Another day we went to the beach at Paleochora, but must not have been in the right place. Although it was a beautiful drive through the mountains, the beach was jampacked with chairs and umbrellas one on top of another. I couldn't wait to leave, but afterwards read that we should have walked beyond there to appreciate the area.

While at Ammos, we walked up to the Eden Restaurant for dinner and it was one of my favorite meals. I was kind of skeptical at first because it didn't have a Greek atmosphere and it had an eclectic menu. I was pleasantly surprised.

We did daytrips everyday while there, but I really loved going back to the hotel, sitting out at the beach, or the patio and taking it all in.

Thank you all for your great information. It has been really helpful. You would think planning 6 nights would not be that difficult, but I've been obsessed with getting the Crete portion of our trip just right. We'll be at the Outer Banks for a week just before leaving for Crete, so we're not looking for a "plop yourself on a beach holiday" while in Greece Having said that, we would like to stay
on the water for at least part of the time on Crete. Here's what we're thinking:

Day One: Fly to Crete and drive to Chora Sfakion, side tripping along the way, before taking the ferry to Loutro.
Day Two: Hang out in Loutro, enjoy water, hike, etc.
Day Three: Back to Chora Sfakion, drive to Milia (side trips?)
Day Four: Milia with day trip to southwestern beaches. Aunt arrives in Chania in late afternoon. We'll have a car meet her at the airport to drive to Milia in time for dinner.
Day Five: Drive to Chania, explore Chania and stay at the Ammos
Day Six: Day trip to Knossos, back to Chania (Ammos) for the evening and dinner.
Day Seven: Catch high speed ferry from Heraklion to Santorini

As you can see, one of our problems is our aunt's mid-trip arrival in Chania. We can't stay in Loutro the day she arrives for fear of missing the last ferry. We shouldn't be in Loutro or Milia the morning we leave for Santorini because of the time needed to get to Heraklion.

We want to stay in Milia so we can visit the sw beaches and think it would be a good experience for our children. Loutro looks like everything Crete probably was 30 years ago. A day and a half of seclusion there is appealing. We could stay in or near Rethymnon on the last two nights, but everyone raves about Chania so we don't want to miss the opportunity to explore there.

There are two areas we'd really like to visit, but don't know how or when to fit it in. It's the area around the Palace of Phaistos, Ayli Deka , Gortyna, and Rethymnon and the Arkadi Monastery.

Is it ridiculous to consider driving down to the area around Phaistos on the third day (after leaving Loutro), before heading west and landing in Milia? Also, is it reasonable to stop by Rethymnon and the Arkadi Monastery on our way to/from Knossos on day six?

We appreciate any feedback!

Are you by any chance from California or Texas, where they will drive 75 miles for dinner or for a movie? I just wondered, seeing your agenda of driving from Chania to Knossos, back to Chania for the night then BACK to Heraklion for morning ferry. Whew!

Why not check OUT of Chania hotel early, zip into Heraklion & drop bags at a hotel, zoom off to Knossos mid-afternoon (when tour busses have gone), then it's only 10 miles back to a Herak. hotel where you can put your feet up before dinner??

Then in the AM it's easy to get to your 9:45 ferry, instead of having to leave Chania at crack o' dawn, and fret about losing your way, and miss ferry?

To further ease the logistics, why not turn in the car after seeing Knossos, and take taxis to dock in AM?

There are plenty of nice hotels in HEraklion, such as Leto, but if you're going in July best to reserve.

TravelerJan, that's an idea. We really want to stay in Chania yet it makes more sense to move east to Rethymnon or Heraklion for the last night. Seriously thinking that one over. Any ideas for some good hotels on the water in Rethymnon or nice places to stay outside of Heraklion?

Do you know anything about the Phaistos, Gortyna, that area? How far is that between Loutro and Makriyaialos (White River Cottages)? AP6380, did you visit that area from WRC?

Oh...travelerjan...I've lived in both Dallas and LA, (but am native northeasterner). It just wouldn't feel right NOT to be behind the wheel of a car for at least three or four hours a day!

If you insist on staying outside of Heraklion, I advise going the night BEFORE you plan to visit Knossos (on day 5). That means not staying at Hotel Ammos.

I suggest 'googling' Ag. Pelagia, a sorta resort with several beaches, on a headland 12 mi or so West of Heraklion. Go in afternoon & you can swim, and have dinner on a cafe porch overlooking sunset.

On day 6, you can enjoy the beach again, before taking off for Knossos. After Knossos, I advise, as before, turn in your car before dinner and take a hotel in Heraklion. That's your only hope to get 7 people up & out and onto a 9:45 ferry. BTW, you had better buy your ferry tix the day before, so you will have to be in Heraklion anyway for that.

The other alternative is to do as I advised before, leave Chania in the AM of day 6, bypass Heraklion to get to Knossos, and stay in Heraklion that nite.

I am just trying to save you from a scheduling nightmare -- please listen to someone who's driven through Crete 3 times. Also, though you say you love being in a car 3-4 hours a day, that's in Texas not Greece -- driving Greek highways (and lo roads) is NOT relaxing. How is 3-4 hours in a car viewed by the other riders -- the youngster, the teenager, the great-aunt?

Driving driving driving is NOT the way to discover the 'authentic Greek experience' you say you want.
The reason that you are struggling, as you say, with your Crete itinerary, is that you're not being all that realistic for such a large & mixed-age group. Scale down, and you'll have a better experience. Good luck!

I agree with the general advice given in the last post.

My husband and I are both into archaeology and have been to both Gortyna and Phaistos. You really, truly, I mean this, CAN'T add them into this itinerary.(and I think Gortyna's my favourite Minoan site, too)

Specific comments

Day One: is fine.

Day Two: is fine

Day Three: Umm. On paper that looks OK, but I suspect that the first part of the drive will be a killer.

Day Four: OK. Go to Elafonissos
Day Five: OK
Day Six: No. As advised stay near the ferry terminal. That's a ridiculaous thing to do. What time's your ferry? Could you spend the day in Chania and see Knossos next day before you leave?


I wasn't going to add anything on the Knossos topic, but seeing as I'm here anyway.... I know the Evans stuff is controversial but, Knossos is just awe inspiring. The scale, the vision, the unknown history. Evans leaves little to the imagination, but for some of us that's no bad thing.

As I recall, the fast-ferry to Santorini is 9:45 a.m, so you can't do anything beforehand but have breakfast and zip to the dock. Must buy tickets day before.

Sheila & Traveler Jan, thank you for the specific advice. That is EXACTLY what I'm looking for. Given your suggestions, this is another thought. Tell me what you think.

Day 1. Arrive Chania early afternoon. Drive to Milia, relax, explore...whatever.
Day 2. Explore SW Beaches and explore Milia area
Day 3. Drive to Chania for the late afternoon & evening. Explore Chania
Day 4. Chania during the day. Pick up Aunt at Chania airport and drive to Sfakia for ferry to Loutro.
Day 5 Loutro...relax & hike around bay
Day 6 Leave Loutro early. Spend this day driving around (Gortyna? etc.) and work our way up to Heraklion. This is our big driving day. Spend the evening near Heraklion (Agia Pelagia ???) or Rethymnon.
Day 7 9:45 am high speed ferry to Santorini

I KNOW the last day sounds tough, but this will be our big sightseeing day. I also know the driving times can be deceiving. We're not naieve about that at all. Both of you especially TravelerJan don't seem to enjoy driving at all. My husband's an excellent driver who's done some of the worst roads on the Peloponese (and the Amalfi Coast), several times so we know what you're talking about. ...lots of hairpins, no guard rails, lots of crosses... My husband also drives 24 hour trips in the US (straight through) a couple of times a year (no, hes' not a truck driver). We're not fearful of a long and difficult drive. This particular route in Greece is supposedly gorgeous. We wouldn't want to do it every day of our vacation, but actually find road trips rather fun. Don't care for your opinion on that.

Anyway, given all that info, what do you think about the revised itinerary?

Rethymnon is not near Heraklion; you won't make the ferry. Ag. Pelagia is better, is 12 miles away from city limits ... to be sure of ferry, arrange for your rental agency to pick up the car from you AT the dock. They WILL do it if you request.

Best to be on the road by 8 at latest --in the 4+ times friends and I have driven out of/into Heraklion wehave got lost every time. I wish you better luck!

As for not liking driving I have never been the driver on any of my Crete trips. I have enjoyed the ride; it was my driver in each case who had the hard time!

dgg,

I did Loutro as a boat daytrip from Paleochora. It's a good area to stay in for boat trips. I also did one to Elafonisos.

Sorry about the grammer and spelling in my last post...I was distracted and didn't proofread.

Thank you for your prompt responses. I really find it all helpful. We're hoping that the Hotel Porto Loutro allows 2 night stays. We found the Ammos nr. Chania does not. Any other suggestions for that coastal area just in case? Perhaps to the east, closer to some of the of the signts we want to see there (Phaiestos, etc.) AP6380, do you have any ideas for that part of island?

TravelerJan, Ag. Pelagia looks like it would be a nice place to have our last Cretan meal before leaving the island. Any suggestions for a quick one night stay on our last night?

I've looked at my Crete road map, after you mentioned getting to Gortyn on your last day before the ferry. In that case, I advise an early morning start from Hora Sfakion, if you intend driving EAST in the South, rather than driving North along Imbros Gorge to reach the 4-lane Rte 1 (Ethn.1) along the North Shore...that's how you get to Ag. Pelagia (see map).

In 2002, my driver was a wizard, she lives in Boulder Colorado and drives the Rockies constantly, we started from Hora Sfakion about 2 pm aiming for Matala beach. We only stopped for 20 minutes in Spili for Gas & water bottles... and we did not reach Matala until Sundown, about 8 pm.
To cross the mountains we used the road just past Selia since it was supposedly less chancy than the road up from Lefkogia. You don't get to a true 2-lane road until the Spili road -- up till then the road is about 1 1/2 lanes, less in the high parts. If you met an oncoming car someone had to back up to a lay-by.
Once you get to Spili road, you may decide to head up to North Shore. If not, and you turn South, be sure you can get to Phaistos or Gortyn before they close (3 pm?). If you turn north

If you take the Imbros Gorge up to the NOrthcoast, you can go Eastward on the charming old Inland Route thru beautiful sleepy village like Episkopi ... one year we were caught behind a herd of sheep for 20 minutes there. A lunch stop? try Argiroupoulis, which has mountain streams running down the main street, and Lappa (a BC ruin) to picnic in.

This route would also allows time for a quick stop on the edge of Rethymnon (not the crammed tourist-shop center), just to go up in the wonderful Fortezza (fort) overlooking the whole sea (Great photo op). Then still get to Ag. Pelagia by late afternoon. No particular recommendation there -- just google it & pick something that looks good;.
If you decide to stay in Heraklion instead and save headaches, Hotel Kronos is right on the water for sunset and has a lovely cafe on the waterside.

Thanks for the terrific information TravelerJan. Now I see what you are saying about driving east in the southern part of Crete. If we did that, we would want to stay in that area for a night before going north toward Heraklion.

If it takes 6 hours to get from Sfakia to Matala, how much time will it take to head north from Matala to Heraklion? Can you remember how long it took to get to Spili?

Given this information, we'll need to add a day if we want to go from Loutro to Gortyn & Phaistos before Heraklion.

Keep it coming. I love this detailed info.

Listen dgg, I think we can straighten out the wrinkles in this final-day-drive faster by voice--and the exact details are boring for other Fodorites; you can tell them all about it later in a trip report. Thus, please contact me via e-mail ASAP to set up a quickie phone call -- or look at my web page "learn more" segment: the URL is http://www.techforecast.com/Janet.htm

I'm in & out today but can talk if you can. Just be sure to have a Crete map on hand for phone call.