help with cornwall (southwest coast)
 

Hi, Im planning a 4-day trip to cornwall and am wondering if there are any recommended cities to stay in as a home base.

we are interested in lands end, possibly islands of scilly, any beautiful coastline/beaches. Basically we enjoy the wonderful outdoors!

Im not sure which part of the cornwall coast is the nicest to walk around, so I dont quite know where to stay.

Thanks

Ryan

Let's clear up some terminology first - the term "city" in the UK means something very specific, and the only one in Cornwall is Truro (which derives its city status mainly due to its ancient cathedral). I think what you are referring to is actually towns and villages.

My preferences for somewhere very atmospheric and interesting to stay on SW Cornish coast would be in Mousehole or the Lizard Peninsula (a little further to the East). Penzance, the largest town in the area is a bit run down and not particularly attractive for visitors.

Things to see and do that you mentioned, and some other suggestions:-

The Cornish Coastal path is well maintained and follows the whole coast, fantastic scenary throughout.

Lands End is a tacky, over-commericalised tourist rip-off.

St Ives (on the N coast) is a beautiful small town, that's attracted many artists over the years.

Minnack Theatre: outdoor theatre built into the cliff-side staging classical concerts, opera etc. Very atmospheric in the evening.

Beaches: Cornwall is famous for them (Sennen Cove is one of my favourites but there are many others).

Eden Project: large futuristic "biomes" housing plants and shrubs from tropical and semi-arid regios of the world. Has become one of Cornwall's major attractions in recent years.

hi, strikerpc,

I too would favour your staying in the PZ area, but suggest considering PZ itself. Having been there for work roughly twice a month for the last 10 yers, it's really come up in the world - there are plenty of nice hotels/ guest houses and great restaurants. plus it is very convenient for The heliport to the isles of scilly, the train, buses etc.

you don't say whether you would be driving - if so, staying elsewhere on the coast is more of a possibility.

let me know when you are coming and a few more details, and I'll try to give you a few more sugggestions.

regards, ann

Hi, thanks for the replies so far. Yes I mean more of towns than cities. We will be arriving on June 14th by train and we wont have a car.

Thanks for the suggestions on nice places to visit, any other beautiful spot ideas will be much appreciated! Thanks!

Ryan

Some of these suggestions are good, but I wouldn't overlook the coastline north of St Ives either: Port Isaac, Tintagel, for example.

Since you won't have a car - Penzance is probably your best choice. It is the best located for getting to other places by public transport.

Striker,

My parents and I did an 8-day driving tour on Cornwall this past October. During our trip we stayed in Polperro (2 nights), Falmouth (3 nights), and Portleaven (1 night). Since distances are small,and we did rent a car, we were able to see Looe, Padstowe, Newquay, St. Ives, Penzance, Mousehole, and Lands' End all as day trips.

On reflection, both my parents and I think Falmouth made a great base. Unlike the delightful Polperro, which is a small fishing village with wonderful hiking trails along the coast (it's also got its very own pirate cave that fills up with water during high tide), Faltmouth is a real town, with easy access to main highways, a train depot, many restaurants, a nice maritime museum, public library with internet access, laundry mats, etc. You can tour two Henry VIII-era castles that offer spectacular views and do hiking on the St. Mawes side of the river (a short boat ride away). I've since learned that there is a ferry boat that travels upriver from Falmouth to Truro, the main city that, unfortunately, we only saw from the highway. In Falmouth we stayed at a 5-star B&B called the Dolvean House, which we highly recommend (50-65 GBP in off season).

For us, Polperro had the atmosphere (stay at the 4-star B&B Cottage Restaurant & Inn), but if you want more to do, especially in the evenings, and easier access since you're without a car, I would recommend Falmouth.

hi, striker,

yep, roundtrip's suggestion is also a good one. Falmouth is a great place with lots to do, especailly with the boats. the coast is not as dramatic as that between Penzance and Land's End, and it's not so convenient if your heats are set on the Scillies, but it's still very attractive.

June is [or should be] a great time to be in Cornwall. From Falmouth you can get the boat up the river towards Truro and disembark at Trelissick - one of the lovliest gardens in Cornwall if not the whole country. there is also Smuggler's Cottage on the other bank of the river where part of the D day landing crafts were based.

round the corner on the Helford River there are two more beautiful gardens - Trebah and Glendurgan. boats will take you up the Helford [shades of Daphne du maurier] or over to St. Mawes as teh Op says.

to get to Falmouth on the train, you have to change at Truro; the train to PZ is straight through. there are lots of buses in both places, but if you wanted coach tours, then Falmouth, which is more "touristy" [by cornish standards, we're not talking torremolinos here] would be a better bet.

happy planning!

regards, ann

St Ives is a good alternative to Penzance. You can get there by a very scenic branch railway. Buses to Penzance run at least every half hour (www.firstgroup.com).
For Scilly, see
www.islesofscilly-travel.co.uk.

I'd definitely go for St Ives over Penzance. Penzance is grim. The only good thing about it is that you get good views of Marazion/St Michaels Mount. St Ives is pretty, hilly, cobbled, and arty.

Best beaches - Sennen/Whitesand Bay, Porthcurno, Praa if you want to surf. Mousehole is more fishing harbour than beach, but very pretty and very typically Cornish. Look out for the famous cats!

If you do decide to go for a car the B-road from St Just to St Ives is a truly wonderful drive, past standing stones, abandoned tin mines and dramtic cliffs.

PS If you want to go to Scilly, there is a short helicopter ride from Penzance - apparently the sea crossing by boat is fairly rough all year round.

St Ives is a nicer place is to stay than Penzance, but for getting out and doing things, walking etc, Penzance has far better transport options - and it is not "grim"!

Visiting the Scilly Isles is easier from Penzance.

And you can take the bus to Mousehole (pretty fishing harbour), Porthcurno (amazingly beautiful beach, visit the Minack Theatre set into the cliffs - or even better see a play there, lovely coastal walks) and Sennen Cove (small coastal town and surfing beach, nice walk along rugged coastline to Lands End - yes Land's End is a tourist trap but the walks along the coast here are beautiful), amongst other places.

There are frequent buses as well as trains from St Ives to Penzance, buses every half hour from St Ives via Penzance to St Just, buses every hour from Penzance to Truro, and some buses from St Ives to Land's End. You can stay in St Ives and still get around west Cornwall.

True - I'm just making the point that it is easier and quicker from Penzance to visit many places in west Cornwall. I would stay in St Ives over Penzance - but only if I had a car.

totally agree w/ optimystic. W/ the limitation of no car - one has to make some compromises. Don't worry, Penzance is not grim and is an easier hub for touring around by public transport.

Now, if you were renting a car, several of us would probably make other recommendations -- but w/o a car, everything will be faster/easier from Penzance.

I'm baffled as to why anyone should think St Ives is difficult to reach without a car. I've been there several times by bus, train and even by boat.
With its narrow lanes, it's the last place you want to take a car. There are frequent buses from St Ives to Penzance and other places. The railway line to St Ives is listed in the Thomas Cook timetable as one of Britain's most scenic lines. There is nothing wrong with Penzance, but St Ives is much more attractive and has good public transport links.

well ,I'm surprised to hear PZ described as grim - i go there twice a month as I've already said and really like the lively atmosphere and restaurants, cafes, galleries, etc.

As for st. Ives, no locals would go anywhere near it in the summer due to the hoards of "emmets" [tourists to english speakers]. Between Easter and October it's impossible to get into or out of by car, and the whole place is packed. ther is a train service, but often it's reduced to 2 carriages which make it awful especially if it's warm.

by all means go, but just make it a day trip!

regards, ann

I'm sorry but I think it's really misleading to portray Penzance as an attractive place for tourists. It's a busy town and port, a lot of the buildings look very grey/peeling paint/run-down, and there are a load of tacky takeaways, dodgy taxi-ranks etc right on the seafront - it's just not a particularly appealing place for tourists to visit - especially in comparison with other towns in the same county. I've no doubt if you live there or visit regularly there are some good bars/galleries etc that can be sought out - but we are supposed to be giving advice to someone from out of the area who is asking where is a nice play to stay as a home base. I don't consider Penzance a good recommendation for that.

Yes, it's absolutely true that St Ives is packed with tourists and it's difficult to park, but it's popular for a reason - there a good beaches, good art galleries (including the Tate and Barbara Hepworth) and some decent eateries - plus it's just a whole lot more picturesque.

Also, I did advise the OP that Penzance could be used as a departure point for the Scillies - not really sure why later posters felt the need to repeat that verbatim as if no-one had thought of it or could think of anything positive to say about the town!

RM67

I really don't want to start an argument, but when were you last in PZ?

regards, ann

&quot;<i>not really sure why later posters felt the need to repeat that verbatim as if no-one had thought of it or could think of anything positive to say about the town!</i>&quot; My, my - cranky today aren't we??

The Penzance RM67 describes really doesn't bear much resemblance to the one I know. But I'd defer mostly to annhig since she lives in Cornwall.

St Ives is a lovely place - but it is REALLY crowded in summer (and it doesn't absorb the crowds all that well). If I was going in Nov - and had a car - I'd probably choose St Ives over Penzance. But in summer and car-less - it would have to be Penzance. Just so much easier to get to other places from there.

(Actually, if I had a car I wouldn't stay in St Ives either since there are a lot of other really lovely villages)

'My, my - cranky today aren't we??'

Actually, no, I'm not. Since when did disagreeing with other posters about which locations make the best base equal cranky? I don't agree with those who think that Penzance has a lot to offer but at least I haven't been rude to anyone I disagree with - unlike your good self!

How would you have liked it if I'd started this post with 'My my, patronising today aren't we?' (Which would be highly appropriate in your case!).

PS - The thing I find most laughable in all of this is that none of the Penzance recommenders have given ONE SINGLE specific example of something worth doing there or visiting for. Try backing up your arguement with some evidence instead of just putting other people down!

well, here's one- the penlee art gallery - it's full of the loveliest newlyn school paintings and a very interesting museum about the origins of the area, right back to the phonecians.

It also has a very good cafe attached, where i usually have my lunch when I'm in town.

then there's historical chapel street with its antique shops and ancient pubs, the numerous public gardens, the lovely views across st. Michael's Bay, the habour area, the charming area between the gallery and the main town full of old houses with tiny, well-tended gardens ..is that enough???

and RM67, you still haven't told us when you were last there.

#-o

regards, ann

Ann, could you tell me a little about Newlyn, both the village and the school of painting? Thanks.

hi, carolyn,

I'll do what I can, though I'm no art expert. the newlyn school was founded at the end of the 19th Century by Stanhope Forbes and friends - walter langley and Elizabeth Forbes are amongst the best, IMO. if you google &quot;newlyn school of artists&quot; you can find a number of sites where you can look at their works - the Tate is a good one.

they are semi-romanitic but nevertheless realistic depictions of local life - fishermen and their wives, rural scenes, etc. the best collection is at the penlee gallery in Penzance, not at the newlyn gallery which is all &quot;modern&quot; art.

Newlyn itself retains the largest fishing fleet in cornwall, fighting off competiton from the spanish and french fishermen. it is still a working village - picturesque, but not at all touristy.

Just along the coast is the village of &quot;Mousehole&quot; [pronounced &quot;mousel&quot;] which is everybody's ideal of a fishing village - picturesque houses, tiny streets, pubs humming with custom [and sometimes their customers]. It also has a terible traffic problem, and a really good restaurant with rooms - &quot;the old coastguard&quot;.

hope this helps,

regards, ann

Thanks, Ann. My husband's family name is Newlen. We saw the signpost to Newlyn but didn't have an opportunity to go there. He did find a postcard in St. Ives and sent it to the kids.

hi again, carolyn,

by co-incidence, this month's Cornwall Life has an article all about Newlyn, which you might find interesting. It's not on their web-site yet [it's in the June edition] but it should surface soon.

sorry you never made it on your trip.
When were you here?

regards, ann

Thanks, Ann, for the info. I'll keep an eye out for it.

My daughter and I love London and try to go every autumn. My husband and I did a 28-day Great Britain-Ireland trip in 2001 as my retirement gift to myself. I hate to say so here, but we did a (gasp!) Globus tour--and it was fabulous. It was, of course, an overview type of trip; but it did give me ideas for the places I would most like to visit more thoroughly and let me know that I liked Cornwall better than the Cotswolds, for instance.

Here's hoping I don't age out before I get to see more of England, Scotland, and Wales. Just now, I'm off to Italy the middle of June. Sigh--so many places to go. It's such a problem!

I'm sorry for hijacking this thread.

hi !!
My husband and I are planning to go to Cornwall for easter from london and we have booked our tickets to penzance as that seemed the easiest plavce to be as regards public transport.Can someone pl tell me of places taht one can do by buses/trains-ofcourse St Ives is one, but any others as well. Also we were looking at places to stay-qunitessentially english so would staying in mousehole be a good idea instaed of penzance and can one go by bus to and fro from penzance to mousehole easily? Pl help..

Hi jungli,

as you wil have gathered, i think that Penzance is an excelent base for a holiday in Cornwall using public transport.

there are lots of buses all round the area - i suggest you google &quot;public transport in Cornwall&quot; and go to the First buses web-site. as well as mousehole, you will find buses to sennen, St. Ives, marazion, etc. etc.

you can also get a train to St. Ives via St. erth, and the helicopter to the scillies.

personally i would not stay in Mousehole without a car - you'll find yourselves going backwards and forwards to Penzance all the time which would be a bore. Mousehole is NOT quintissentially english IMO, but quintissentially touristy, especially in summer - a big difference.

there are B &amp; Bs in both places, plus guest houses and hotels a plenty in PZ, and a few top-end hotels.

good luck!

regards, ann

Hi annhig (&amp; OP, sorry if this is a hi-jack!)

We arrive at LHR on the 3rd May. One night LHR hotel and then pick up our car and 'go'. Cornwall is HIGH on my list and I was interested in you comment.
Mousehole is NOT quintissentially english IMO, but quintissentially touristy, especially in summer - a big difference.

My question is, can you suggest a quintissentially english town/village to base ourselves. Of course we will drive to Lands End and I have to go to Padstow (rick stein fan) we enjoy walking a lot. Not full day hiking, but lots of meandering and exploring.

Also whats your opionion on the Downs area? I know we should make the effort to at least see part of it, eg. Brighton. Or would you just spend the alloted couple of days in Cornwall? Which would mean picking up our car and driving there first. And as my ViaMichelin website says LHR to say Mousehole is 5 hours is it worth going via Brighton (say for a lunch break) on the way to Cornwall?

Maybe thats too ambitious, but bare in mind, we are arrive b/class midday(shouldn't be too zombie like). And we drive on the same side as you, down here. And DH is an avid driver.

Sorry if thats all a bit long winded. :-)

Thanks annhig

hi, aussie,

if I read you correctly, you are asking of you could easily do London to cornwall via Brighton in little more than half a day.

the answer is not really - the best way would be to go down to Brighton on the A23, crossing the M25, then retrace your steps back up the A23 to the M25 and head west. you could make your way across country but it would take forever. arriving at LHR at 11.30, you'd be doing well to be in Brighton by 2, so after an hour's lunch, it'd be 9pm earliest before you got to Cornwall.

a better idea might be to spend the night in or near Brighton [an afternoon in the pavilion would be fun] and then spend the next day getting to Cornwall, when you could take your time, arriving in time for dinner.

as for where to stay, in May you'll have a lot of choice. if you are interested in north/west cornwall, although St. Ives is hell in high summer, in May it would be glorious and well-placed for your trips to Land's end, mousehole, sennen, and Marazion. it's a bit more of a trek to Padstow - Port Isaac is a place in that area you might like.

in the south, the Roseland is what some people think of as &quot;quintsentially english&quot; though it's rather off the beaten track unless you use the King Harry ferry across carrick roads [the estuary]. St. Mawes and Portloe are on stunning postions on the water, but Tregony and Veryan [with its round houses,] are also lovely in an english understated way.

have you looked at the www.enjoyengland.com web-site?

keep the queries coming - I'm very happy to keep answering them. not sure I've picked up yet how long you've got in Cornwall or elsewhere.

regards, ann

thanks for the reply. Sorry if I wasn't very clear.

Arrive LHR middayish on saturday 3 May. Staying over night airport hotel and collecting car the next morning. We have 4 weeks to drive as much of the UK as do-able. I was thinking originally of 1 night Brighton area and 2-3 Cornwall then 'up' from there.

after reading your post, that sounds the best idea. Just need to decide where to stay for one night Brighton and then in Cornwall. I will follow your suggestions and investigate further.

Thanks.

IMO Brighton makes absolutely NO sense for an overnight after LHR. Brighton is south of LGW and a long drive from LHR and in the wrong direction if you eventually want to get to Cornwall. Plus Brighton to Cornwall is a very long drive. Almost anyplace else would be a better stop over. Salisbury, Bath, Bournmouth, Lyme Regis, Exeter, anyplace in Dorset, or Somerset, or -- well, just about any place other than Brighton.

Thanks janisj, Salisbury was also on our 'list'. I may start checking out priceline for places to stay.

Was your point that I should give 'Brighton' a miss completely? It was only ever on the list as a 'should we go' not a 'must go'. Perhaps I could give us extra time in Salisbury &amp; Cornwall????

Thanks

Brighton is a fine place for an afternoon's visit. But it is not convenient to where you are headed. It is quite out of the way and adding extra time to get across the whole of the south coast after Brighton just makes it worse. There are lovely seaside resorts all along your route w/o going out of your way to Brighton.

Hi aussie,

as you've got 4 weeks, the main danger I forsee is that you will try to cram in everything and thereby see more of the car than the countryside.

that said, some &quot;one-night stands&quot; are not a bad idea, so long as they are interpsersed with some longer stays.

as you are arriving at about lunchtime the idea of stopping before you get to Cornwall is a good one - you don't know how jet-lagged you are going to feel, how long luggage reclaim, immigration and picking up your car will take, or what the traffic wil be like. whether you opt for Brighton is up to you, but Janisj is dead right about its being somewhat off your route.

so far as Cornwall is concerned, because of its shape, no one place will be central enough to be a base. ideally you would have three stops - one in south cornwall, eg Fowey or Mevagissey, [or fishygissy as an elderly friend of mine calls it], one in the far west, say mousehole or St. Ives, and one along the north coast [you could do worse than a night in Padstow if your are determined to eat chez Rick].

as an alternive to the south cornwall stop, you could head for south Devon instead - two or three nights in say, Salcombe, would make a terrific start to your holiday. then head for cornwall.

after Padstow, I'd head up the north coast, taking in Bude [beaches] and morwenstow [fabulously beautiful cliffs] and ending up at Hartland, where the coast takes a right angled turn. After that, take in clovelley and appledore on the way to Lynton and Lynmouth which would be good places to stay.

all of that could take from a week to 4 depending on how much driving and walking you want to do.

hope that helps,

regards, ann

Thanks again ann and janisj. I think after much research we will stick to our original plan. And that is 'not to plan'. As DH says, we wont know what we'll like and how long we will feel like staying. So I will come armed with all the info I have gathered and just head off..........

We have decided to book our first stop (probably Saisbury based on research and advice on Fodors) after LHR, purely because its a Bank Holiday wkend, but thats it. Hey, worse case, we can always sleep in the car!!!!! :-)