Help with Burgundy itinerary
 

After two days in Paris, we're training in the morning to Sermizelles and then taxiing to Vezelay. We planned to spend the day in Vezelay and then go on in the afternoon, by train, to Dijon for two nights.

Should we stick with that or should we spend the night in Vezelay and go to Dijon the next morning and still have a full day and night there? I've always wanted to see Vezelay and, reportedly, it is magical. But will we be bored spending a whole day and night in such a small place? If you've been to Vezelay, especially, I'd be interested in your impressions.

Does anyone know if there are nice walks in the vicinity of Vezelay?

Part of my concern is, if we don't have a place to stay in Vezelay, where would we store our luggage? Will the train station in Sermizelles (another option is Montbard) have luggage storage? Thanks for any input!

Last Q - no a station of this size will have no luggage storage - very few stations in France do these days except for a handful in big cities.

There are nice walks in the Vezelay area - get a detailed Michelin map of the area or better yet an IGN - map, both sold everywhere which have the GR (Grande Randonee ??) footpaths marked on them. IGN maps are better in this to me (Intitut Georgraphic Nationale) - French equivalent of British Ornance Survey maps.
If looking for a place in Dijon, several Fodorites have raved about stays in Coco's flat in the town center and her supreme hospitality. And in Dijon be sure to follow the Owl Trail around town - yes Dijon gives a hoot!

A whole day in Vezalay seems like too much. It's a gorgeous place with beautiful views of the countryside from the Cathedral area, but not much more.
There is a Michelin 3 star restaurant nearby, that would be a few hours well spent.

I don't know how many cathedrals you've visited in Europe, but I don't think the one in Vezelay would make my top 20% list. I was quite disappointed when we visited it this past Sept. People more religious than I am might enjoy it more because of it's historical significance and Mary Magdalene's 6 inch piece of bone. The town, however, is quite nice. It's a little touristy (like most of these types of towns are), but far less touristy than Mt St Michel & Rocamadour.

We examined almost every inch of the cathedral & walked up & back on the street through town (didn't go into any stores), and I think we were there about 1 1/2 hrs - perhaps less. The green Michelin guide says the visit to the cathedral is 1 hr.

We enjoyed Dijon immensely - perhaps our favorite city in France outside of Paris (we spend 2 months in France most years). We also enjoyed Auxerre quite a bit.

Two days in Paris doesn't seem like much. I'll assume that you've visited it several times in the past. If not, I would spend more time there, & leave for Vezelay later in the day, but still stay overnight in Dijon.

Stu Dudley

We were in Burgundy for three days just last week. Freezing and wet!

When are you going? We slept in Vezelay for three nights and just about EVERYTHING was closed (most restaurants and most shops). It is indeed a beautiful place but I'd say 2 hours is just about as much as you need in December/January! We were there in a car and drove around all the time but spending a full day walking around Vezelay will get you very cold!

Also, the station Sermizelles is about the size of a postage stamp and is closed most part of the day, i very much doubt they have luggage storage. Your best bet might be to take your luggage with you to whatever place it is you plan to have lunch in in Vezelay (check ahead as most are closed in December-thru-February) and leave it there as you go for a walk.

Also - make sure you book your taxi from Sermizelles as you won't find one waiting for you!

I realise all this sounds negative, BUT it is a beautiful place and the countryside is amazing!

Thanks for the helpful replies!

Yes, we've been to Paris several times, and have just a few must-sees for this trip.

We are very excited about Dijon, and are going partly on your recommendations Stu. So you'll be hearing from me if we're dissapointed:)

This trip is in June, so, whatever we decide, I don't think cold weather will be an issue.

So, based on everyone's replies, I guess we're leaning toward just a few hours in Vezelay and trusting that we'll figure out what to do with the luggage.

Still, country walks are always enticing and we hate nothing more than watching the clock with train schedules in mind. Decisions, decisions...

>>We are very excited about Dijon, and are going partly on your recommendations Stu. So you'll be hearing from me if we're dissapointed<<

Oh no - I'm on-the-spot now. If you run out of things to do in Dijon, it's only a 1 hr train ride to Beaune - frequent departures.

Stu Dudley

>If you run out of things to do in Dijon, it's only a 1hr train ride to Beaune<
Not even Stu, between 18 and 24 min to go!

Thanks Pal, the apartment is already booked but we never know...

Still ok for a GTG Cimbrone? :-)

We'll keep Beaune in mind!

Re: the 3 star restaurant. I read about it on tripadvisor, and it got mixed reviews. But we're not really foodies and would as soon spend that kind of money on a meal as jump head first from the Eiffel Tower.

Yep, coco. Can't wait to sip wonderful things with you on the Dijonais square of your choosing!

The basilica at Vézelay is, we found, absolutely stunning. It's a "white" church, with beautiful stone carvings--especially on the tympanum and nave, a fine crypt. The cloisters are worth seeing, and the church's history make it a 3* for us: starting point of one of the principal the medieval pilgrimmages (the bones of Ste Mary-Magdelene were interred there), the spot where Thomas à Becket excommunicated Henry II, and where St. Bernard preached the second crusade. The basilica is one of our favorites in all France and should not be missed.

That said, half a day is sufficient, as there's not much to Vézelay besides the church and the view.

Thanks for the info, Underhill. Being a fan of the romanesque, I'm looking forward to Vezelay a lot.

I'm considering another option that I'd mentioned on another thread: training from Paris to Auxerre, spending a couple of hours there, picking up a rental car and driving to Vezelay, and then driving to Dijon and dropping it off there. That seems to eliminate the need for a taxi, a good deal of time on slower trains, and having to worry about the time as much when we're enjoying our visit. Plus, we'd get to see Auxerre. I think Avis has a rate of 60 euros (or dollars, can't remember) for the day. A good plan?

Hi C,

I like your alternative plan.

((I))

I agree.

Ira and Underhill--I think you mean you like the car rental idea. Am I right?

You betcha.

As long as you have the car, drive around in the Countryside & visit some Chateaux.

Stu Dudley

If you rent a car, you will have more flexibility and won't have to worry about luggage storage, taxi service, etc. Plus, you will have the means to drive around the countryside which is quite beautiful around Vezelay. The basilica is, as Underhill said, stunning. We absolutely love it - so much we have been back twice. We happened to be there for Vespers once, which was one of the highlights of all our trips. Tried to go again, but missed being there on the right day. There are several good places to stay in Vezelay, and more than one moderate, but good restaurants. We have always arrived mid-afternoon, shopped, spent some time at the basilica, walked around the town, and spent the night. It has changed somewhat over the years - a little more touristy - but it still remains a favorite of ours.

Hi C,

>I think you mean you like the car rental idea. Am I right?<

Yup.

((I))