help with 4 day break -Nerja, lasAlpujarras and Granadaas
Mar 17th, 2003, 02:50 PM
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help with 4 day break -Nerja, lasAlpujarras and Granadaas
We have a 4 day break with our grown up children planned at the beginning of May. After many moments of madness when we have imagined covering the whole of Andalucia in the time available we have finally decided to restrict ourselves to the area above and to go back to Spain next year for much longer and visit the many wonderful areas we know we are missing. Many people have helped with places we will not now be visiting this year, but I have all the information safely stored for a year's time!
So now I am humbly requesting yet more help!
We arrive in Malaga at 1.00am our first day and have a hotel booked about 10 minutes from the airport (thank you Maribel for this one). In the morning we plan to drive to Nerja and potter for the day. So we need some suggestions for a hotel that second night in Nerja , quiet and not expensive plus somewhere good to eat.. The following morning we thought we would drive up to Frigiliana, then later in the day drive to Las Alpujarras and have a meal plus a stroll around one of the villages. So again, we need somewhere quiet and inexpensive to stay(would have loved somewhere like Sierra y Mar but its minimum stay 2 nights) We thought perhaps somewhere around Pampaneira, Bubion or Capileira. Pampaneira I believe has most restuarants but there is a stroll around Capileira which sounds nice in "Holiday walks in the Alpajurras" - its detailed at http://www.sigmapress.co.uk/rabjo786.html#walk And again any restuarant suggestions.
Then, on the third day we plan to do a circular walk lasting about 4 hours from the same book and then drive to Grenada in the late afternoon so that we can eat in Grenada and see the Alhambra illuminated at night. I have read such horror stories on this forum of driving in Granada that we would like to stay on the outskirts and taxi into the centre. So if anyone can suggest a hotel that might be suitable and even let us leave the car there the following day whilst we explore Grenada and visit the Alhambra, I would be very grateful. I have read that it is possible to drive around the city and park at the Alhambra, but I have also heard that is very expensive and I don't know that it is safe or possible to leave a car overnight? And, last question, eating places in Grenada?
With restuarants we like good value for money, it doesnt have to be cheap but mustn't be big money either - my son and duaghter in law are PhD students.
I realise that this is about 20 questions in one posting- if all you knowledgeable people out there can dip in and answer just the bits you know, I would be very grateful!
I promise to post my successes and failures on the trip to the board when I come back home!
Many thanks, Hilary
So now I am humbly requesting yet more help!
We arrive in Malaga at 1.00am our first day and have a hotel booked about 10 minutes from the airport (thank you Maribel for this one). In the morning we plan to drive to Nerja and potter for the day. So we need some suggestions for a hotel that second night in Nerja , quiet and not expensive plus somewhere good to eat.. The following morning we thought we would drive up to Frigiliana, then later in the day drive to Las Alpujarras and have a meal plus a stroll around one of the villages. So again, we need somewhere quiet and inexpensive to stay(would have loved somewhere like Sierra y Mar but its minimum stay 2 nights) We thought perhaps somewhere around Pampaneira, Bubion or Capileira. Pampaneira I believe has most restuarants but there is a stroll around Capileira which sounds nice in "Holiday walks in the Alpajurras" - its detailed at http://www.sigmapress.co.uk/rabjo786.html#walk And again any restuarant suggestions.
Then, on the third day we plan to do a circular walk lasting about 4 hours from the same book and then drive to Grenada in the late afternoon so that we can eat in Grenada and see the Alhambra illuminated at night. I have read such horror stories on this forum of driving in Granada that we would like to stay on the outskirts and taxi into the centre. So if anyone can suggest a hotel that might be suitable and even let us leave the car there the following day whilst we explore Grenada and visit the Alhambra, I would be very grateful. I have read that it is possible to drive around the city and park at the Alhambra, but I have also heard that is very expensive and I don't know that it is safe or possible to leave a car overnight? And, last question, eating places in Grenada?
With restuarants we like good value for money, it doesnt have to be cheap but mustn't be big money either - my son and duaghter in law are PhD students.
I realise that this is about 20 questions in one posting- if all you knowledgeable people out there can dip in and answer just the bits you know, I would be very grateful!
I promise to post my successes and failures on the trip to the board when I come back home!
Many thanks, Hilary
Mar 17th, 2003, 03:15 PM
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We were in many of those areas just last week so I have a few thoughts for you. Be sure to bring real hiking boots if you want to hike. This was truly mountain hiking. We had our lighter city hikers with us and wished we'd had our real boots. We went as far as Bubion and Pampaneira, but not Capiliera; it was lovely country but the villages are very small. There are several self-catering places in the area you might want to try to stay and then you wouldn't need to worry about restaurants. We were staying about 20-30 minutes south of Granada. When we drove into Granada for the day we parked right by the Alhambra. We stayed all day first taking the day time tour and then strolling around the city, and then did also did the evening tour (frankly I was disappointed after all the hype I'd read about the Alhambra at night, and you only got to see a small portion of what you see during the day). It cost us E13 to park which was the maximum for the day. I certainly wouldn't want to drive in Granada itself. Several guidebooks recommended the Hostal Suecia as an inexpensive place to stay that is outside of the hustle and bustle of the city. You might want to do some research on the place.
Mar 17th, 2003, 08:00 PM
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You didn't mention if you plan to see the caves at Nerja. I'd highly recommend them. Also, do you have tickets for Alhambra? If not, you should get them ASAP. And, yes, there is a big parking lot where you can park (don't be fooled by the people flagging you down on the road on the way up who tell you the lot is full).
Mar 17th, 2003, 11:11 PM
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Hi Hilary,
I hope you are not planning all of this for the long weekend beginning on the 1st of May, Thursday. It is a bank holiday in Spain, and most people are also taken the Friday off.
With the actual situation, people are opting for driving instead of flying abroad, and most of the good places will already be booked.
Hope you get good recommendations. Beginning of May is a lovely time to be down there.
Cova
I hope you are not planning all of this for the long weekend beginning on the 1st of May, Thursday. It is a bank holiday in Spain, and most people are also taken the Friday off.
With the actual situation, people are opting for driving instead of flying abroad, and most of the good places will already be booked.
Hope you get good recommendations. Beginning of May is a lovely time to be down there.
Cova
Mar 18th, 2003, 12:11 AM
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In Granada, don't miss taking a stroll along the calle Calderia Nueva/ calderia Vieja where all the Moorish tea houses are. They all have their own charm/specialities, and you can sip Moroccan mint tea, pakistani spiced tea made with hot milk, or try an almond milkshake or some north African pastries...
Foodwise, I would suggest you opt for a tapas place in the evening. One of my favourites is Meson el patio, at 50, calle Mesones - they have a nice courtyard where you can sit and fill up on tortilla española, eggplant fritters, spicy gambas and all the other staples of the tapas menu!
Foodwise, I would suggest you opt for a tapas place in the evening. One of my favourites is Meson el patio, at 50, calle Mesones - they have a nice courtyard where you can sit and fill up on tortilla española, eggplant fritters, spicy gambas and all the other staples of the tapas menu!
Mar 18th, 2003, 03:01 AM
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Hilary,
About staying/parking in Granada:
We've found that the very easiest way with a rental car both to see the Alhambra and the downtown area is to park and stay on the Alhambra hill. To see the downtown area, we've simply taken the minibus #30 from right below the ticket offices to the drop off downtown near the Plaza Nueva.
If you're coming from the Alpujarras, before entering the city of Granada, simply follow the signs leading to the "ronda" road or the "carretera de circunvalación" and the Alhambra signs. This road will wind around the city, totally circumventing it and take you straight up to the Alhambra parking lot and the hotels on the Alhambra hill.
As cova says, the May 1-4 holiday will find many Spaniards traveling to Andalucía, and I suspect that the tiny Hotel America adjacent to the Alhambra is fully booked. But you might still find availability at the Hotel Guadalupe, across from the Alhambra parking lots. Their rates run up to 93 euros.
We've stayed also with kids at the Alixares del Generalife, but the walls are paper thin!
email: [email protected]
or phone: 958 22 34 24
fax: 958 22 37 98
The very easiest Granada downtown hotel to reach, right off the N 323 coming up from the south and before entering the downtown maze is the huge "Luna de Granada" complex, which consists of the 4 star, 245 room Gran Hotel Luna de Granada (where I once stayed with a large touring orchestra group) plus the less expensive 3 star Luna Arabial and Aparthotel Luna de Granada II with both rooms and apts. Rates in those go from 65-88 euros.
This complex has so many rooms that I think you'll find something available in your price range, plus it's just very easy to find, right across the street from a shopping mall where there's a branch of El Corte Inglés, and ample underground parking is available. From there we walked to the cathedral and took the minibus up to the Alhambra from the Plaza Nueva area.
email: [email protected]
phone: 958 27 66 00
fax: 958 27 47 59
About staying/parking in Granada:
We've found that the very easiest way with a rental car both to see the Alhambra and the downtown area is to park and stay on the Alhambra hill. To see the downtown area, we've simply taken the minibus #30 from right below the ticket offices to the drop off downtown near the Plaza Nueva.
If you're coming from the Alpujarras, before entering the city of Granada, simply follow the signs leading to the "ronda" road or the "carretera de circunvalación" and the Alhambra signs. This road will wind around the city, totally circumventing it and take you straight up to the Alhambra parking lot and the hotels on the Alhambra hill.
As cova says, the May 1-4 holiday will find many Spaniards traveling to Andalucía, and I suspect that the tiny Hotel America adjacent to the Alhambra is fully booked. But you might still find availability at the Hotel Guadalupe, across from the Alhambra parking lots. Their rates run up to 93 euros.
We've stayed also with kids at the Alixares del Generalife, but the walls are paper thin!
email: [email protected]
or phone: 958 22 34 24
fax: 958 22 37 98
The very easiest Granada downtown hotel to reach, right off the N 323 coming up from the south and before entering the downtown maze is the huge "Luna de Granada" complex, which consists of the 4 star, 245 room Gran Hotel Luna de Granada (where I once stayed with a large touring orchestra group) plus the less expensive 3 star Luna Arabial and Aparthotel Luna de Granada II with both rooms and apts. Rates in those go from 65-88 euros.
This complex has so many rooms that I think you'll find something available in your price range, plus it's just very easy to find, right across the street from a shopping mall where there's a branch of El Corte Inglés, and ample underground parking is available. From there we walked to the cathedral and took the minibus up to the Alhambra from the Plaza Nueva area.
email: [email protected]
phone: 958 27 66 00
fax: 958 27 47 59
Mar 18th, 2003, 03:02 AM
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About Nerja lodgings:
If you go to www.jpmoser.com, you can see the prices for the Paraíso del Mar, below the Parador and above Burriana beach, or the 1 bedroom apts (sleeping 4) at the Nerja Bahía on Burriana beach or the Hotel Balcón de Europa right in the center of town. Rick Steves recommends the Hostal Marissal right next to the Balcón de Europa as a budget place with doubles for 48 euros in May.
email: [email protected] Before you inquire, you might want to check the archives of Rick Steves' readers' feedback at
www.ricksteves.com/graffiti/archives/spainbook.html
In nearby Frigiliana, I'd check both the Posada Morisca and the new Hotel Rural Almazara at
www.axarquia-rural.com/casasfrigiliana.htm
You can read the reviews (in Spanish) and see pictures of the Almazara at
www.toprural.com/ficha/ES.cfm/idp/29/ids/7424.htm
for the Alpujarras, I would check the offerings at
www.lasalpujarras.com or
www.rusticblue.com (but I think their prices run high, so I'd book directly with the hotel)
Hope this helps a bit.
If you go to www.jpmoser.com, you can see the prices for the Paraíso del Mar, below the Parador and above Burriana beach, or the 1 bedroom apts (sleeping 4) at the Nerja Bahía on Burriana beach or the Hotel Balcón de Europa right in the center of town. Rick Steves recommends the Hostal Marissal right next to the Balcón de Europa as a budget place with doubles for 48 euros in May.
email: [email protected] Before you inquire, you might want to check the archives of Rick Steves' readers' feedback at
www.ricksteves.com/graffiti/archives/spainbook.html
In nearby Frigiliana, I'd check both the Posada Morisca and the new Hotel Rural Almazara at
www.axarquia-rural.com/casasfrigiliana.htm
You can read the reviews (in Spanish) and see pictures of the Almazara at
www.toprural.com/ficha/ES.cfm/idp/29/ids/7424.htm
for the Alpujarras, I would check the offerings at
www.lasalpujarras.com or
www.rusticblue.com (but I think their prices run high, so I'd book directly with the hotel)
Hope this helps a bit.
Mar 18th, 2003, 11:31 AM
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Hilary,
Just another thought about the Alpujarras-
Since the Sierra y Cal has a 2 night minimum, you might want to consider another Alistair Sawday favorite, the Alquería de Morayma in Cádiar. It's represented by both Spain at Heart and www.secretplaces.com, and the rates are quite reasonable.
www.alqueriamorayma.com
Just another thought about the Alpujarras-
Since the Sierra y Cal has a 2 night minimum, you might want to consider another Alistair Sawday favorite, the Alquería de Morayma in Cádiar. It's represented by both Spain at Heart and www.secretplaces.com, and the rates are quite reasonable.
www.alqueriamorayma.com
Mar 22nd, 2003, 06:00 AM
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I would suggest you stay at the Parador in Nerja & use that as a base to go to Frigilina (which is about a 15 minute drive as I recall). Nerja was not quite what I expected -- mostly British retirees and lots of touristy restaurants. Prepare to get lost a lot driving. We found ourselves constantly circling around Nerja & just got out of the car in Frigilina to walk around rather than try to navigate the unmarked and narrow streets.
I covered the Granada parking/driving situation in another post, but have a recommendation for a restaurant in the Albacin(sp?)area called Antigua Bodega Castaneda. Best tapas we had in all of Andalucia. Lots of cheap and good restaurants in this area as there are many students. Granada and The Alhambra provided some of our best memories of Spain. Plan to spend some time there.
I covered the Granada parking/driving situation in another post, but have a recommendation for a restaurant in the Albacin(sp?)area called Antigua Bodega Castaneda. Best tapas we had in all of Andalucia. Lots of cheap and good restaurants in this area as there are many students. Granada and The Alhambra provided some of our best memories of Spain. Plan to spend some time there.
Mar 22nd, 2003, 06:35 AM
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I definitely agree about going to Antigua Bodega Castañeda. It's on Calle Elvira, just near the Plaza Nueva. They do great jamon serrano, baked potatoes with sour cream, plates of olives, etc, but there is nowhere near as much choice as some of the other tapas places in town - it's more of a bar than a tapas restaurant, strictly speaking. It gets very bustly and fun in the evenings.
Apr 4th, 2003, 06:27 PM
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As has been noted, the villages cited in the Alpujarras are indeed small. Given that it is a holiday weekend, you may want to be sure of reservations. If my memory serves, I wandered up to Bubion and Capiliera on the bank holiday about 4 years ago and ended up going back to Nerja to spend the night because there was nothing available. I couldn't beleve it. The locals had audaciously tken their county back!
A word [and one man's opinion re Granada - my favorite town in Spain]: The Alhambra is on a high hill overlooking the city. Thus you have a choice: stay up on the hill and have convenience getting to the Alhambra- OR stay downtown and have access to bars, restaurants etc. There is a minibus leaving from Plaza Nueva that takes you either up or down the hill. Amozingly, it takes just as long to get up the hill as it does to get down the hill. It is simply a matter of what you want when you step out of your doorway in the evening: peace and quiet and a view or access to the city life.
Downtown [which suits my taste] you might check The Dauro or Dauro II. Moderate with parking. Yes Driving is not fun not impossible. Once you get there, park it and forget it. Whether you stay on the hill or downtown you have to go the same way.
For good reasonable food the Reataurante Nuevo can't be beat. Right downtown. There is a local chain that I like. They have about three locations in the downtown area but here I am going to fail you: Cafe de Plaza Nueva, Cristillada which is right across the street from the Melia Granada. I am sorry I just can't remember the names. They are probably like going to an Appleby's or an Outback here in the states but the food is good and you cannot beat the value. Alternatively, I'd get out of the dwontown area maybe in Realejo and find local bars. If you want to live it up with some great seafood try Cunini!
You will enjoy!
A word [and one man's opinion re Granada - my favorite town in Spain]: The Alhambra is on a high hill overlooking the city. Thus you have a choice: stay up on the hill and have convenience getting to the Alhambra- OR stay downtown and have access to bars, restaurants etc. There is a minibus leaving from Plaza Nueva that takes you either up or down the hill. Amozingly, it takes just as long to get up the hill as it does to get down the hill. It is simply a matter of what you want when you step out of your doorway in the evening: peace and quiet and a view or access to the city life.
Downtown [which suits my taste] you might check The Dauro or Dauro II. Moderate with parking. Yes Driving is not fun not impossible. Once you get there, park it and forget it. Whether you stay on the hill or downtown you have to go the same way.
For good reasonable food the Reataurante Nuevo can't be beat. Right downtown. There is a local chain that I like. They have about three locations in the downtown area but here I am going to fail you: Cafe de Plaza Nueva, Cristillada which is right across the street from the Melia Granada. I am sorry I just can't remember the names. They are probably like going to an Appleby's or an Outback here in the states but the food is good and you cannot beat the value. Alternatively, I'd get out of the dwontown area maybe in Realejo and find local bars. If you want to live it up with some great seafood try Cunini!
You will enjoy!
