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-   -   Have two days between Trieste and Istria...where to go? (https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/have-two-days-between-trieste-and-istria-where-to-go-851846/)

sforza Jul 27th, 2010 06:30 PM

Have two days between Trieste and Istria...where to go?
 
Hi everyone,
A group of us are renting a house for a week in central Istria; the lease is Saturday to Saturday. Our flight gets into Trieste on Thursday...wondering if you all have ideas about where to spend the two nights. We will have a car. We like to wander picturesque and/or historic cities and towns and are suckers for a great view from mountains or a harbor. Sightseers, not shoppers, though we love to eat. If you have a recommended hotel, that's even better!
I am working my way through some wonderful trip reports, by the way, and have learned a lot from all the postings.
Thanks!!

Andrew Jul 27th, 2010 07:03 PM

How about Ljubljana? Beautiful city! Not a whole lot to see but very pleasant and picturesque.

tower Jul 27th, 2010 07:51 PM

you might enjoy visiting the Lipizzaner Horse breeding farm in the village of Lipic(ts)a ...very close to Trieste on the road to Ljubljana. They usually have a show in their workout arena on the farm.

Also The Postonya Jama (Cave) in the same general vicinity.. very dramatic "train" ride through the vast caves. Another picturesque cave in the region is just outside of the aformentioned Lipic(ts)a...Skocjanske (Skokyanske)Jame.

Just some suggestions in the vicinity. Opatija on the Istrain Peninsula is an interesting way to look at Imperial Austria-Hungary's resort in the region during the Hapsburg Regime.

stu tower

tower Jul 27th, 2010 07:52 PM

typing error....Istrian

sft

jdtaylor Jul 28th, 2010 11:15 AM

If I were going to be staying in central Istria for a week, I myself would stay in Trieste for the preceding two nights - for a kind of city that would complement the countryside, and deepen your feel for the historic and cultural connections that span northeastern Italy and Istrian Slovenia and Croatia. Of course, that can also be true about Ljubljana, but here are some suggestions in relation to Trieste:

I go to Trieste every year or so and now I always stay at the Albero Nascosto - http://www.alberonascosto.it/hotel-in-trieste/index.htm. It does seem like there are a number of other nice-looking places opening up there; but that's a family-run place I know well.

In Trieste, you can take the tram to Opicina for a great view of the bay from the Carso highlands -- there are a couple nice walking paths that start by the tram stop by the obelisk (ask for Obelisco); or if you already have your car, drive up to the Carso, which will allow you to explore places like the above-mentioned Lipica and the caves. Keep an eye out for osmizas, family farms that sell their own salumi, cheese and wine - there are dozens and dozens all over the Carso, but open only irregularly, signaled by a branch of leaves posted on the side of the road.

(There are also some great trattorie in the area, like Valeria in Opicina, and Carso and Furlan in nearby Monrupino. Where to eat within Trieste is a whole other topic, let me know if you want to hear about it!)

You mention harbors - you can also take a ferry (c. 20 min ride) from Trieste to Muggia, which is a very pretty Venetian style village that is just a tiny corner of Istria still within Italy. Boat service info here: http://www.triestetrasporti.it/index...vizi-marittimi (let me know and I can help translate)

Another way to get some beautiful views is a hike in the Val Rosandra - start at Bagnoli della Rosandra (can get there on bus 41: http://www.triestetrasporti.it/index.php?linea-41). If you go all the way to Botazzo/Botac, in that tiny village, one of the handful of houses is a great one-women trattoria.

If you're hungry for lunch as you're entering Istria from Trieste, I recommend the restaurant Morgan in Brtonigla/Verteneglio: http://www.istra.net/restorani.asp?id=48

Istria is small, so while you're at your place it would be easy to make relaxed expeditions to Rovinj, etc. (On a clear day, looking out from Motovun you could see as far as the coast, even though you feel very much in an inland type of area.) A nice variation on the typical 'wine route' (which they also have) is the olive oil route - I particularly recommend Ipsa, which is just north of Motovun, on a beautiful country road.

And, it's been written about in a number of places, but I do recommend eating at the agriturismo Toncic, in Zrenj!

Best,
Jonathan
jonathandtaylor.com

bobthenavigator Jul 28th, 2010 11:23 AM

Good input above. We loved Piran, a small charming resort town on the water, not far south of Trieste but in Slovenia.

LJ Jul 28th, 2010 11:46 AM

Definitely consider staying in Trieste. It is an amazing small city, much overlooked. If you want to do some homework on this destination, pick up a copy of Jan Morris book 'Trieste and the Meaning of Nowhere'.

If you do go,visit Opicina on that tram that Jonathan recommended and eat at one of the local restaurants: you won't be surrounded by tourists. Go to Muggia, to see the yachts and eat fresh seafood. Tour the Illy factory if you are a coffee fan. Walk the James Joyce tour and have a tipple in one of his favourite haunts. Swim on the glorious beaches, just outside town...

Have fun in this very special city that was the crossroads of Europe at one point in the past.

sforza Aug 8th, 2010 01:26 PM

Thank you everyone; these are great ideas. I did as suggested and picked up a copy of "Trieste and the Meaning of Nowhere." It's eactly the kind of book you hope to read before exploring a city!

Castellanese Oct 1st, 2010 02:45 PM

I stayed for a week in Trieste last July and I loved it. I had planned to day trip to Rovigno, Pirano and Muggia, but I didn't. I fell in love with Trieste. I loved taking the tram up to Opicina and walking the Napoleonica trail to Prosecco/Contovello, and then walking down to Miramare Castle through the Natura trail.


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