dac

I'm still trying to decide where to stay after landing at CDG and driving to Burgundy. Looking into hotels in Auxerre but just found a good price at L'Esperance in Vezelay. Would this make a good base for 2 nights to explore northern Burgundy before heading to Beaune? It seems that Vezelay is small so will we be able to find a restaurant for dinner as the menu at L'Esperance is too pricy!!
Thanks again for all of your help.
Dac

dac

ttt

JoyC

We haven't stayed at L'Esperance but we've been to Vezelay. Its true...it is quite a small village but really quaint and charming (it reminds me of those hilltop villages in Provence) and when you walk to the top, there is a terrace in the chateau that will give you quite a magnificent view of the Yonne valley.

I very much prefer Vézelay than Auxerre. I think it would be a good base because aside from Auxerre, you can also visit Avallon, Semur-en-Auxois and little villages in between.

You'll love this part of France!!

iris1745

Hi dac; looks like a good choice. We are staying at a chateau just south of Auxerre. Take a look chateauderibourdin.com ENJOY Iris

klondike

The reason it's a good price is because you are expected to eat dinner there. It is considered common courtesy by most hotels that have restaurants that you take your meal there, especially the smaller the town, and many require it as a condition of getting the room.

I remember reading something in a thread here on Fodor's if this was technically legal or not.

We had a wonderful affordable stay in St. Florentin, and Joigny looked like another town we would consider staying in. Have you done a thread search here on Fodor's? There has been lots of advice on good/affordable choices in Auxerre offered previously.

Underhill

Friends of ours stayed at L'Esperance and thought it wonderful, if that's any help. The food, of course, is famous, and the reason why most people stay at the hotel. While it's not legal to require guests to dine at a hotel restaurant, it is expected. An operation like L'Esperance, however, gets enough clients from non-guests that no one is apt to put any pressure on you for dining. Usually the hotel will ask if you want a reservation for dinner; just say no, you have other plans.

The nearby restaurant Le St-Etienne gets a good listing in the Michelin Guide. You might also want to consider the Poste et Lion d'Or as a hotel option; it's in Vézelay.

nytraveler

When you confirm your reservation you may find yourself asked which night you plan on eating in the hotel. That's what happened at the Moulin des Ruats (but we had planned on eating there anyway - since the food is excellent and price very reasonable for quality).

Sometimes if you say you're not you can find they are mysteriously full.

(And many Parisians come to these places for dinner - with or without staying the night - since it's a way to get great food at prices lower than in Paris.)

weber6560

Stayed at L'Esperance a number of years ago when Marc Meneau [sp?] was the chef. Very comfortable. Ate at the restaurant and while pricey, was vry good, and as much of an event as it was a meal. This was some time ago but I wouldn't rule out the hotel. I am a "what's ocal life like" guy so I found Vezelay to be very agreeable. I just wandered the back streets, poked in the markets, and had great fun with the local cobbler. It is a great place to stop the first day after the flight from the US.

dac

Thank you everyone for your thoughts. I think I will reserve it and see what happens with the dinner. I had trouble getting a room at Maxime and Parc de Marcheaux in Auxerre for Sept. 20th so that's what made me search Vezelay. Which I think might end up being a good choice.
Dac

cigalechanta

nytraveler, Ruats is a favorite of mine and one of te few places I can order Truite Bleu. MFK Fisher had her first at the same place. It was once the destination of illicet lovers rom Paris

JulieVikmanis

Dac, if you haven't already booked or if they don't have room for you, consider some other place. L'Esperance was once my favorite restaurant--anywhere. Ate there when they had one, then two then three and back down to two, etc. stars. Stayed there twice--once long ago on our first or second visit, and found the experience fantastic, but primarily because it made it possible to follow a terrific dinner by just floating upstairs to a lovely, modern room. Went again about a year ago and was totally disappointed. The dining was not up to the price (costly tab for very ordinary ingredients) and concluded with a berry concoction covered in spun sugar that was almost laughable. Worst of all the rooms were no different than when we'd been there probably some 20 years previous. No upgrading since then. It just felt sad to see such a wonderful place in decline. For the same price and probably a lot less I'm sure you can find a much better experience in Vezelay or the surrounding area. We stayed in a very cute little place right in the middle of town on one trip, but alas I cannot recall the name. Michelin red guide lists a place called Crispol, about 5 km from Vezelay on D957 with views of the church that they mark with a red two gabled house that might be worth checking on, at less than half the price of L'Esperance. phone 03 86 33 26 25, or follow up on some of the other suggestions in the posts above. Sorry to be so negative, but for me at least, this place has become a disappointment.

dac

Thank you Julie for your input. After advice from everyone, I emailed to ask about restaurant reservation needed to book room. They replied that the rooms were for their restaurant guests use and I would need a restaurant reservation to book a room. I've decided to take the advice of many on the board and stay in Auxerre for 2 nights before heading to Beaune for 2 nights. THANKS!!!
Dac

stanleys

I would suggest staying at Cote St Jacques in Joigny rather than L'Esperance. The food is better and Cote St Jacques has the nicest rooms, wonderful ambiance and the most fabulous breakfast. We even took pictures of the bathrooms to help with our redoing of some bathrooms.