Greek Itinerary advice needed, please.
#25
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 4,204
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If, after all this, you pine for an island instead, I would not suggest Corfu. because being the northernmost island, the rainy weather begins sooner ... also, hate to break it to you, but it is not was it was in the days of the Durrells ... a very UK island, quite package-holiday ... and if you are looking for any "ancient Greece" vibe, not there -- Corfu & neighboring isles were under british & German control for centuries, lots of Victorian-era visits & buildings.
If u want an island with history & beauty, why not look at our Cyclades favorite, Naxos. It has only 1 flight daily, about mid-day, but booking now, you could probably get seats. I've been to over 25 islands, many of them multiple times. Naxos still my favorite ... and go now, because people are finding out about it, and who knows what lies ahead. Harbor can't take cruise ships, and airport can't take big jets, so it doesn't have throngs of package-tour groups. Its visitors are independent travelers like us, low-key & friendly.
In Sept, Stay on St. George beach just adjacent to the charming port town, wander all its winding lanes, visit the BEST tiny museum in the Aegean, see ruins & history wherever you go. Stanbr has lovely photos of what's there -- beaches, ruins, mountain villages and more: https://www.flickr.com/photos/stanbr...7634605629689/ -- Naxos has large permanent population, so still vibrant in September ... the cafes & tavernas will be full of Naxians out for the evening, relaxing after the busy season. Plenty to keep you & your gent busy, with time for great swims as well ... you can walk in 10 minutes to all the cafes, shops and sights, and stroll home in the moonlight, no need for taxis.
The only trick, as I say, is booking the domestic flight outbound. You can fly back to mainland or take the relaxing large modern Blue Star ferry (5 hours+), either 10 am or 6 pm.
If u want an island with history & beauty, why not look at our Cyclades favorite, Naxos. It has only 1 flight daily, about mid-day, but booking now, you could probably get seats. I've been to over 25 islands, many of them multiple times. Naxos still my favorite ... and go now, because people are finding out about it, and who knows what lies ahead. Harbor can't take cruise ships, and airport can't take big jets, so it doesn't have throngs of package-tour groups. Its visitors are independent travelers like us, low-key & friendly.
In Sept, Stay on St. George beach just adjacent to the charming port town, wander all its winding lanes, visit the BEST tiny museum in the Aegean, see ruins & history wherever you go. Stanbr has lovely photos of what's there -- beaches, ruins, mountain villages and more: https://www.flickr.com/photos/stanbr...7634605629689/ -- Naxos has large permanent population, so still vibrant in September ... the cafes & tavernas will be full of Naxians out for the evening, relaxing after the busy season. Plenty to keep you & your gent busy, with time for great swims as well ... you can walk in 10 minutes to all the cafes, shops and sights, and stroll home in the moonlight, no need for taxis.
The only trick, as I say, is booking the domestic flight outbound. You can fly back to mainland or take the relaxing large modern Blue Star ferry (5 hours+), either 10 am or 6 pm.
#26
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 4,204
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
NOTE: If the Naxos idea appeals, here are some lodging options --- most St. george hotels directly ON the sand are mostly smaller, family-run, 10 - 30 rooms, with balconies w. sea views. Many are self-catering, so you can do your own breakfasts, others serve breakfast or have that option. Not fancy, but light & airy. Check out Villa Naxia, Hotel Asteria, Studios Kalergis.. Hotel Glaros (its balconies not all sea-view) Only upscale hotels in area are Nissaki Beach (closest to town end of beach), at far end of beach, Naxos Resort Beach Hotel, and Hotel Galaxy, farthest from the sand.
#27
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,321
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I would add http://hotelspiros.com lovely pool, probably a bit cheaper than Glaros...
#28
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 896
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Personally I would hire a car, drive and stay two nights to Delphi or Meteora (choose one, saving the other for return journey),I would then get to Lefkas and spend 5-7 days there.
Lefkas is an island with gorgeous beaches and nice scenery, many boat trip options and some cool inland villages, but not much in terms of ancient sites. BUT there is no ferry involved, it is connected on mainland just on a small bridge, so you can be in an island and easily hop on mainland and have non-island activities. Western mainland greece is an often overlooked destination but has plenty to keep you busy. For example I would check Preveza and Ancient Nikopolis 45 minutes away of Lefkas town or drive 90 minutes away to check gorgeous Ioannina etc.
After Lefkas I would then drive back towards Athens, driving through different route, overnighting one night or two on Meteora or Delphi, then drop the car and enjoy Athens.
Of course one could always add Peloponnese in the mix, but it seems like adding many overnights here and there is not your friend's thing...
I choose Lefkas not only because I find it a very scenic and very reasonably priced island, but mostly because of this advantage of drive vs ferry and proximity to nice areas. And because it is not as far away from Athens as Corfu is. But I guess you can always replace Lefkas to Corfu,maybe even forgetting all the driving and flying from/to Athens.
It is true that Ionians can get rainy sooner than other locations, not only by been north compared to other destination, but due to microclimate mainly, but if you plan to be there around middle September, I do not think you'll face major weather isues. Putting this part of the trip first is wise for best weather and to gain some energy to explore Athens latter. Not to mention that it is wiser to plan been near the airport a few days in advance of your flight home.
I love Athens and I feel 4-5 nights are an absolute minimum for the city. Even if for some reason you don't like it, you can see how you feel and always decide on the spot for some side trip to Hydra,Aegina etc too.
Lefkas is an island with gorgeous beaches and nice scenery, many boat trip options and some cool inland villages, but not much in terms of ancient sites. BUT there is no ferry involved, it is connected on mainland just on a small bridge, so you can be in an island and easily hop on mainland and have non-island activities. Western mainland greece is an often overlooked destination but has plenty to keep you busy. For example I would check Preveza and Ancient Nikopolis 45 minutes away of Lefkas town or drive 90 minutes away to check gorgeous Ioannina etc.
After Lefkas I would then drive back towards Athens, driving through different route, overnighting one night or two on Meteora or Delphi, then drop the car and enjoy Athens.
Of course one could always add Peloponnese in the mix, but it seems like adding many overnights here and there is not your friend's thing...
I choose Lefkas not only because I find it a very scenic and very reasonably priced island, but mostly because of this advantage of drive vs ferry and proximity to nice areas. And because it is not as far away from Athens as Corfu is. But I guess you can always replace Lefkas to Corfu,maybe even forgetting all the driving and flying from/to Athens.
It is true that Ionians can get rainy sooner than other locations, not only by been north compared to other destination, but due to microclimate mainly, but if you plan to be there around middle September, I do not think you'll face major weather isues. Putting this part of the trip first is wise for best weather and to gain some energy to explore Athens latter. Not to mention that it is wiser to plan been near the airport a few days in advance of your flight home.
I love Athens and I feel 4-5 nights are an absolute minimum for the city. Even if for some reason you don't like it, you can see how you feel and always decide on the spot for some side trip to Hydra,Aegina etc too.
#29
Original Poster
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 219
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Jan, How did you know about me, the Durrell's, and Henry Miller? Ha ha! Thanks for breaking it to me! All your help is appreciated.
Thank you also Mariha~ So much great information here. I hope others will read this thread.
I will get back to you all soon.
Have a great week.
Thank you also Mariha~ So much great information here. I hope others will read this thread.
I will get back to you all soon.
Have a great week.
#30
Original Poster
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 219
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Jan, It looks like there's only one return flight available during the time we will be in Greece from Naxos. Others are sold out. Don't know if we'll be able to tie that return into our plans. This is rather last minute planning and I'm beginning to think that we might change the tickets to late April. Not sure yet. A boat for an hour or so would be alright but he says not longer than that.....gets very sea sick. And I know that those waters in September can be a little rough; remembering my many trips on them years ago.
#31
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 4,204
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Then take the ferry... you have time, as long as you are only doing 2 places; Island + athens. Here's the deal:
SAILINGS --The Blue Star Ferry has 2 sailings: 9:45 (arrive 3 pm) and 6 pm (arrive 11:30).
COMFORT & SEATING -- Blue Star Fleet are not what you remember from years ago... they have VERY comfortable, huge modern vessels (capacity 1800 passengers, 250 vehicles). They are so stable you forget you are on the water! You can buy the tickets at a harborside agency when you get to Naxos - no need to book online ahead of time. Get "reserved Economy" seats and specify "window section." These are "aircraft-style" seats, but NOT what we get in air! More like business-class seats, lots of leg room, and lean-back. These side sections (which used to be the nonsmoking) are smaller, quieter. BUT of course, you need not sit there for the whole voyage. Sit out on deck enjoying the wake and the sunset as long as you like -- then go in to have a snack or light meal in one of the cafes, or take snacks to your seat, then nap or read until arrival. Then get a taxi to central Athens; about 25€ before midnight.
RECOMMENDATION -- the drawback of the 9:30 sailing is that it eats up the middle of the day. If you take the evening sailing (I call it the "sunset sailing") you have a full final afternoon sunbathing or exploring, using this approach. Check out of the hotel at 12 noon as required, and have them stash your luggage behind the desk. beforehand, I ask the hotelier if we might have the use of a bathroom in late afternoon to freshen up & change for the ferry trip -- there is never any problem and I've done this multiple times. So, swim, lie on a sunbed and/or wander Naxos town one last time, read in a cafe ... and at 4:30, use that bathroom to wash up, change clothes, & then head for the pier.
NOT Recommended: Please don't change to late April... it's still showery, many enjoyable tavernas and shops will not be open, and while there may be warm days for sunbathing, the water will be TOOOO cold to dip a foot in ... and that includes pools. which are unheated.
I beg of you, don't switch your trip just because of one plane problem.
SAILINGS --The Blue Star Ferry has 2 sailings: 9:45 (arrive 3 pm) and 6 pm (arrive 11:30).
COMFORT & SEATING -- Blue Star Fleet are not what you remember from years ago... they have VERY comfortable, huge modern vessels (capacity 1800 passengers, 250 vehicles). They are so stable you forget you are on the water! You can buy the tickets at a harborside agency when you get to Naxos - no need to book online ahead of time. Get "reserved Economy" seats and specify "window section." These are "aircraft-style" seats, but NOT what we get in air! More like business-class seats, lots of leg room, and lean-back. These side sections (which used to be the nonsmoking) are smaller, quieter. BUT of course, you need not sit there for the whole voyage. Sit out on deck enjoying the wake and the sunset as long as you like -- then go in to have a snack or light meal in one of the cafes, or take snacks to your seat, then nap or read until arrival. Then get a taxi to central Athens; about 25€ before midnight.
RECOMMENDATION -- the drawback of the 9:30 sailing is that it eats up the middle of the day. If you take the evening sailing (I call it the "sunset sailing") you have a full final afternoon sunbathing or exploring, using this approach. Check out of the hotel at 12 noon as required, and have them stash your luggage behind the desk. beforehand, I ask the hotelier if we might have the use of a bathroom in late afternoon to freshen up & change for the ferry trip -- there is never any problem and I've done this multiple times. So, swim, lie on a sunbed and/or wander Naxos town one last time, read in a cafe ... and at 4:30, use that bathroom to wash up, change clothes, & then head for the pier.
NOT Recommended: Please don't change to late April... it's still showery, many enjoyable tavernas and shops will not be open, and while there may be warm days for sunbathing, the water will be TOOOO cold to dip a foot in ... and that includes pools. which are unheated.
I beg of you, don't switch your trip just because of one plane problem.