Thank you for your advice. We drove to Monodendri and enjoyed walking down into the Vikos gorge. We just made a day trip as we were told it wasn't possible to camp in Zagoria because it is a national park. However, we did see some motorhomes camped in a layby. Yes we found the views stunning, and yes, we had to stop for a herd of cows on quite a main road!

It's always nice to read a so detailed trip report, even if it's a bit dated. Most sites never change anyway...
Just a small correction:
Delphi
"The main site and modern museum are above the road, the gymnasium and Temple of Apollo below and slightly further along the road."
Temple of Apollo is to be found in the main site above the road! What's on the lower site is "Tholos" aka Athena Pronaea Temple!

This mechanical description of Delphi is depressing and unfair to the site and area. The general area and site are about as beautiful as travel ever gets. The sites and the museum are 1st class and a tribute to what the Greeks can do with money, talent and artifacts. I stayed in a small, perfect hotel overlooking the valley with the greatest view you could wish for (30 E). The town hangs off a mountainside like a bud on a big tree, and exists only because of the sites. I loved all of Greece and 8 islands, but Delphi was one of the highlights of the trip.

Missed this back in '08. So nice to see a report on mainland Greece. Jealous that you got to hike Vikos - I was traveling by public transport and didn't get there. BTW - when I went over that pass between Meteora and Ioanina in early April '06 there was still snow, 3-4 feet deep.