Great Trip! Report on West & Northwest Ireland
 

Hello all,
Thanks to all who helped with location decisions - we had a great 3 week trip to Ireland. Here's part 1 of our trip report.

We arrived in Shannon on a Thursday morning. Picked up our car at Dan Dooley's - uneventful thank goodness. We = husband, 13 year old son, me. Our 22 yr old daughter met us there for a couple of weeks.

Our first task was to pick our daughter up at the Ennis train station, as she'd spent a couple of days in Dublin. Unfortunately, she wasn't on the train!! Yikes! The station master was very helpful and had her paged at different possible train stations until he tracked her down in Limerick. You can imagine what was going through my head while we waited... But, she turned up eventually, having missed a transfer, and all was well.

First stop, the Cliffs of Moher. My recommendation: if it is raining, don't stop! We were soaked through and there was no visibility. That night we stayed in Ballyvaughan at the Core House B&B. Dinner at Monk's. All was lovely. The next day, Friday, we toured the Burren and headed for Galway, staying at the Adare House B&B. We liked it fine, the location was great. Galway was crowded as it was a holiday weekend in Ireland. It was our son's 13th birthday and we found a lovely homemade chocolate cake that we enjoyed back at the patio of the Adare House. Other posts here had said a brief visit to Galway City was plenty - I agree. (Although my daughter thought it was fun.)

We headed to our next stop, Westport, taking the scenic route through Connemara (probably all routes are scenic there.) I'd printed out all the trip recommendations and we tried to follow them, stopping at Ballynahinch Castle Hotel for lunch. It was a great place to stop! Such a lovely hotel with a good lunch.

We arrived in Westport barely in time to pick up the key for our self-catering town house. We'd rented a place there for a week, as several of you had said it would be a good place to base ourselves. You were right! We loved Westport and could have easily spent 2 weeks there. We rented a townhouse on Church Lane, right in the thick of things, which we loved. The playground and cinema were right behind us and our son loved meeting Irish kids his own age at the playground and asking each other questions. Our older daughter loved being 2 blocks from Matt Molloys!

So, Saturday night in Westport on a holiday weekend was a sight to behold! There were many stag and hen parties, and different groups were dressed in different themes, like togas. Matt Molloys was incredible. We ended up in a room, the back one, with an amazing singer, and it was chock full of happy Irish people. Our daughter was quite happy to chat with all the boys! One was a little too persistant and I eventually told him that I was her mother, and it was time for him to leave. It worked like a charm! Irish mothers must inspire fear in young men!

So, we loved Westport best of all, the weather was great, and while there we hiked and went to pubs. Great hikes: the cliffs at Achill Island, the top of Croagh Patrick (ouch! ouch!), the loop walk on Clare Island. My husband hiked the ridge above the Doo Lough Valley without us. We tried to hike at Connemara National Park but with every step we were completely covered by flying ants that had just hatched out and, since the hike we were on wasn't very scenic, we turned back.

We also went to Strokestown Museum (which was OK, but not really worth the drive IMHO.)

Our favorite activities: Clare Island, Croah Patrick, walking around Westport, shopping for ordinary things like groceries and steaks. My favorite pubs: McCarthy's & Moran's (you really do sit there with the cornflakes! It really was a hoot - thanks for the recommendation.) My husband and I loved popping out to the pub after going to the butcher shop. The after work crowd was just our speed.

So, that's the first half of our trip. From there we went to Donegal. More later - it's dinner time!

Thanks to all who helped me plan my trip - it would have been a very different trip without all of your recommendations!

PS: Bill, I went to the Porterhouse in Westport a couple of times but no Kevin! Did you meet a singer at Matt Malloy's called Bob Sullivan (I think that was his name)? I loved his voice!

Two things I wanted to do on our last trip back: go out to Skellig Michael and climb Croagh Patrick. We made it to Skellig but hubby nixed the Patrick climb. Oh well, just another reason for us to go back. :D

Great trip report so far! Can't wait to read the rest.

Cheers,

Wendy

Sorry you had rain; the cliffs are normally beautiful. Will be looking forward to more.

McShane, as Waffle said, this is a great report. I haven't made it up to Westport but hope to. More please.

This is a great report- can't wait to read the rest!

Well, Saturday morning came all too quickly and we sadly left Westport behind, heading for Ceide Fields and looking for a place with warm scones somewhere along the way. Between Westport and Achill Island the scenery is stunning. I'd love to stay the night sometime in Mallaranny - it looked so promising with it's views of Clew Bay!

Once we left Mallaranny the interior of Mayo wasn't lovely - there was industrial peat mining going on. But along the coast of North Mayo - my how scenic and empty!

Ceide Fields was interesting, although it wasn't as terrific as I'd hoped. The views from there of the cliffs were breathtaking and it was a lovely, blue sky day. We stopped at a lovely ruined friary, Moyne Friary. Access is through a farmers field where we discovered that our 22 year old daughter is afraid of cows! That entertained the rest of us for quite some time!

Pub-grub Digression: traveling with a 13 year old boy meant that we never missed a meal, despite how large the meals were, how many potatoes we ate, or how little exercise we got! He was reliably hungry every 3 hours and he loves pub grub - tried everything on the menus over the 3 week trip! (I grew quite fond of beef lasagne with chips. It was delicious everywhere.)

Potato Digression: we had learned at the Strokestown Museum that pre-famine the average adult ate from 8 to 14 pounds of potatoes a day!!! Once we learned that, we talked about those 14 pounds of potatoes constantly, reminding ourselves that we weren't there yet for the day - we each needed another 12 pounds... Hiking on Clare Island the old humps of the pre-famine potato beds were clearly visible on the landscape, everywhere, still. I assume they had built them up with seaweed over several decades.

So, back to the trip. Our self-catering accomodation for the next week was Rathmullan and we stopped at the O'Donnell Castle in Donegal before heading there. We had purchased a family pass to the Heritage sites for 50 EU - such a great bargain - and stopped at as many Heritage sites as we could.

Sunday we briefly visited Derry to see the sites and the murals in the Bogside and then went to the Ulster-American Folk Park in Omagh. It was terrific! We highly recommend that! There was a good, informative museum and about 30 buildings to go into, many staffed with people in costume, many of whom had tasty treats to give you if you visited with them. After that we went to Dungannon, where the McShane's came from in 1810. We explored the Catholic cemetery (where we found no McShane's which gave me license to tease the rest of them that the family secret must be that they were really Presbyterians in Ireland - not that there's anything wrong with that) and we had lunch in Dungannon (good beef lasagne and chips there too.) Then we drove on to Portadown to take our daughter to the train station, as she was flying home from Dublin the next morning.

Back at our apartment we met our neighbors, on holiday from Belfast, and we had several happy times visiting with them in the neighborhood pub over the next week.

We liked Rathmullan and thought it was a lovely small town, full of both locals and families on holiday from Northern Ireland. We never heard an American voice. As always, we liked the pubs and the chipper and enjoyed the slow pace of life there.

Monday we spent the day at Glenveigh National Park, visiting the castle and the gardens, making full use of our Heritage Pass! It was a great place to visit - the castle was beautiful. We also visited Glebe House and Gallery in Churchill and loved it.

Tuesday we drove to the Antrim Coast. After lunch at a pub in Ballintoy, we went to the Careek-a-reek (sp?) bridge. Somewhat disappointing as it was very crowded and we'd been to scarier suspension bridges. However, it was wonderful seeing Scotland from the bridge. Scotland! But when we arrived back at the parking lot, the "Rotel" pulled up. The crowds coming from the bridge stopped in awe to gather and gawk. The Rotel was German. It consisted of a big tour bus, towing what at first glance appeared to be a small storage unit. Then, we all realized at once that Rotel meant rolling hotel and people slept in little compartments in that metal box it was pulling! Unbelievable! Quite the conversation piece in the ladies toilet!

Then, we parked at the castle near White Park Bay and hiked the Causeway Coast, about 4 miles to the Giant's Causeway. It was a fabulous hike!!! First, it was easy and almost level the entire way. We were mostly along the top of the cliff and it was a blue sky day, with amazing views. Second, the N. Ireland National Trust has done a great job of maintaining it. They've purchased the land adjacent to the cliffs to keep them in fields of barley or other crops (rather than in hotels I presume.) They've invested in keeping cliff erosion to a minimum and in protecting views and the experience. We loved it all! When we reached the Giant's Causeway it was about 6:30 p.m., bus service had ceased and I wasn't so interested in making it a round trip hike. So my husband ran back for the car and my clever son discovered a pub right on the road so I could have a Guinness, he could have a soda and we were well-positioned to watch for my husband's return.

Wednesday it rained and we went to the Newmills Corn and Flax Mills (terrific and free with our Heritage card!) and then back to Rathmullan. We gathered our maps and guidebooks and my husband and I went to our pub to plot the next few days while our son read/watched tv at the apartment. Our neighbor was there so we had an enjoyable afternoon talking about Northern Ireland, drinking our pints and enjoying the hot coal fire that the bartender built up for us.

Thursday - Inishowen Peninsula. We took the ferry from Rathmullan to Buncrana which was cheap, easy and fun. We drove along the coast road to Malin Head, the most northerly point in Ireland. Oh my! So beautiful! Then we had a pint at the most northerly pub in Ireland (who could resist such a claim!) and visited with the pubowner and his friends. Driving through Carndonagh I thought it looked like a lovely place to stay. We went to Stroove where husband and son swam. Brrr! Then back home via the ferry. I must add my editorial comment here that many, many holiday homes are being built on Inishowen, forever changing it.

Friday: the SW Donegal Coast. We drove out to St. John's Point. What a perfect spot, sticking way out into Donegal Bay! I spotted one self-catering rental there and one B&B. It would be a great place to stay. From there you can see Ben Bulben in Sligo (one of the world's most beautfil mountains IMHO), the cliffs of Mayo and the Slieve League cliffs of Donegal. We parked at the beach and began walking to the lighthouse when we saw the rainclouds coming fast. That got even me running pell mell for the car! Then we discovered we could just drive to the lighthouse :)

We drove to the Slieve League cliffs to hike. Kilcar looked like the most remarkable place to spend the night! Such views, such a town! We drove up to the parking lot at the cliffs. There are two parking lots: one 3k from the cliffs where sane people park. One at the cliffs where crazy people park. I thought it was a good idea to drive to the cliffs - yikes! From my seat on the passenger side I thought the end was near several times! Safely there, we hiked just a couple of kilometers, fairly easy hike, and didn't make it to the ridge. It was too, too windy. But the views from the tops of the cliffs sure were great!

Saturday morning arrived too soon and we sadly left Rathmullan, heading for Trim. We were up early so we could get to Newgrange in time. We had lunch in Slane and made it to Newgrange by 2:30, just in time to get the last 3 spots on the tour of Newgrange. We went on the Knowth tour, loved it, then on the Newgrange tour, loved it too. (All included on our great Heritage card! We were starting to feel like we were getting away with something!) Last year in Ireland we had visited Carrowmore Megalithic Cemetery near Sligo and these 3 sites: Carrowmore, Knowth and Newgrange, are all very impressive and beautifully interpreted and restored. Even my tour-phobic son liked them.

We stayed in Trim at the Cranmor B&B. It was OK, not that welcoming. Dinner was a drag in Trim as the pubs don't serve evening meals and we had a mediocre meal at the Silver something restaurant.

Sunday we went to Trim Castle, went on the tour, loved it. Then - on to Dublin!!! Most remarkably, we drove straight to our hotel, the Charleville Lodge, on the North Circular Road. No problems with traffic or with finding it. The lobby there is lovely, and the public rooms inviting, and the rooms themselves are OK. It was 95 eu for the 3 of us so it was by far the cheapest place possible! We checked in and walked to the city center, about a 25 minute walk. On our walk a number of fire engines raced past and once we reached the Liffey we saw the building they were racing too - they had a ladder truck up and were evacuating people from the top floor of an old building that faced the Liffey. I've never seen a ladder rescue before. We had a great lunch at Eliza Blues (and continued watching the fire activity) and then went to the National Museum of Archaeology. It was wonderful! Well worth visiting. Dinner on Temple Bar at Mexico to Italy cafe for the early bird special. My husband and I weren't remotely hungry but, we joined in the spirit and once again stuffed ourselves! As a change from beef lasagne I ordered the beef Cannelini :) Delicious.

Monday: up early, walked to the city center for an incredible breakfast at Bewley's Oriental Cafe. So lovely! And organic porridge with fruit and a huge scoop of whipped cream. My goodness! What a way to start the day! We went to Trinity and the Book of Kells was on a page of solid illustrations! I of course am one of those people who got myself positioned right in front of the book and examined it closely. The tour of Trinity was great. Although we are now very confused about who determines college rankings. Our tour guide said what I had thought - that Trinity is in the top 20 colleges in the world. But the day before in the Irish Examiner, there was an article saying it ranked 237th. Oh well! What a place to be educated!

We then went to the National Museum of Art - very good, with a wonderful Vermeer. The Irish school of painting surprised me - I'd never seen those paintings and they were terrific. Then, it had been 3 hours since food had been consumed so for lunch, back at Eliza Blues. My husband wasn't feeling well so he went back to the hotel and my son and I then, free of our built-in spending control, went shopping! My son found a jacket and a messenger bag for school at Penney's on Henry street. Bargains galore! After that the two of us walked to the Guinness Storehouse for the tour. We both loved the tour, bought silly souvenirs (love my new beer coasters) and enjoyed the gravity bar. We shared a pizza at Toscano's, it was very good, my son says it was second best to NY pizza, and then had the Irish version of gelato on Temple Bar.

Tuesday: decided to head out of Dublin at 9:00 rather than stop at the Killmainham Jail. Now I wish I'd visited the jail as my daughter loved it when she was there. Oh well, it goes on the "next time" list. Our flight was Wednesday morning out of Shannon so Tuesday was our 'drive to Shannon' day. We made just one detour, to Heywood Gardens, as I love visiting gardens and it's believed to have been designed by Gertrude Jeckyll. The walled garden was nice, probably not worth a big detour though! We had lunch (beef lasagne for me of course) in Ballina, on the river Shannon. It was raining. From there we stopped by the Bunratty area so I could complete my quest for a second black and camel polka dot Foxford Blanket (couldn't find one in Dublin.) Found it at Blarney Woolen Mills. 15eu more than the other one that I bought two weeks before at the Foxford Woollen mills but I was able to use up my euros. I decided I must have two as at Rathmullan my son and I argued over whose turn it was to use the blanket while watching a movie :)

Then we drove to our final stay - Carrygarrey House - our all time favorite guest house. The rooms are lovely and luxurious and I sat by the peat fire in the bar reading my book with the rain falling and the wind blowing, all afternoon. Our family loves this place and we highly recommend it. We had dinner at 7 - it's 35eu for a 4 course, amazing meal. Huge portions with so many to choose from for each course! I had the goat cheese salad for the first, the seafood chowder for the second, steak w/ green peppercorn sauce, then a meringue with berries and cream. I had to stumble outside to see the horses afterwards - it was too much food for me but I couldn't stop eating! My son highly recommends the chocolate mousse and has since been telling his friends all about it.

So that's it, our second trip to Ireland was over.

As we flew out of Shannon the plane headed north along the coast and it was mostly clear. We saw the Cliffs of Moher, the burren and the Aran Islands from the air. The burren is very cool from the air! We saw Black Head, Ballyvaughan, and then Galway Bay and the peninsula that Roundstone is on. Connemara - saw the Bens from above. Then we spotted Westport, Clare Island, Achill Island and Croagh Patrick with the scar of the pilgrim trail clearly visible. The mullet peninsula and the remote cliffs of NW Mayo. Retraced from the air all of the places that had found a home in our hearts. We were so sad to leave and look forward to our next trip to Ireland.

Happy travels to all of you and again, I'm so grateful for all of the advice I received here that made our trip a special one!

Wendy, we went to Skellig Michael last year as well. That was one of the best things we've ever done! And Croagh Patrick...it was worth it, but I was cursing my running shoes and regretting the decision to leave my hiking boots at home. We saw one barefoot pilgrim - he was from Seattle University! (Of course...) I was glad I made it to the top of Patrick but for the next 3 days I couldn't walk up the stairs without moaning :) Pilgrims don't seem to believe in switchbacks - it's a steep one!

Great report, McShane! I'm planning a trip for October and will be spending 3 nights in Connemara (Ballynahinch). Then, thanks to Tennischick's recommendation, will be spending one night in Milltown Malbay, at Berry Lodge (near Burren and Cliffs of Moher). I've read only raves for Monk's in Ballyvaughn; is it worth going out of the way for or only if you are in Ballyvaughan?

Are you referring to Moran's Oyster Cottage? If so, what's up with cornflakes?

Thanks!

Hi Betsy,
Ballynahinch Lodge looked amazing - I would love to stay there sometime!

No, don't go out of your way for Monk's. It was totally normal. I had chicken and it was the plainest chicken breast ever. The mussels were good though, and plentiful. Our B&B host tried to get us reservations at a vegetarian restaurant he loved in Ballyvaughan but it was full - I don't recall the name.

Moran's - it was so funny. Someone (I think Siobhan) on this list had told me to have a pint at Moran's in Westport, across from Matt Malloy's. She said it was a hoot and it was. It's a little old grocery store/pub. The pub is through a swinging door but it's about 6 feet by 12 feet so when it's full you sit in the grocery area on barrels leaning up against the shelves with the cornflakes. What could be better?

Hi McShane!

Thanks for the tip about Monk's. The Westport Moran's is not the Moran's I was thinking of, but I agree with you...there are few things better than having a good meal where the pub/restaurants serves as a grocery store. It's just so authentic! I had a meal like that recently in Montreal - fairly upscale, true, but nonetheless, it was wonderful to eat and relaz amidst homemade food products and the like.

McShane,

we just got back from a similar trip (Aug 11 through Aug 17). Thanks very much for your great trip report!

McShane, wow, wonderful trip report. This was your second trip to Ireland or have there been more?

Sounds like you all had loads of fun at Westport. I think my young adult daughters would enjoy Matt Malloy's and so would hubby and I. Have you ever been to Doolin? I was wondering if you could compare "pubbing" in Doolin with Westport? We're going in June 2006. We are especially interested in trad Irish music and meeting the locals.

Right now Wesport isn't in my proposed itinerary but I've been thinking of changing it. Here's what I have at the moment as our bases:
3 nights: Ballyvaughan or Doolin
3 nights: Dingle Peninsula
2 night: Cashel
2 nights: Trim
2 nights: Belfast and nearby
2 nights: Dublin

I really wanted to fit in Wesport and Kenmare though! Would love to visit area around Skibbereen...Sigh...

What is your recommendation since you've been to Ireland at least twice? Should I keep itinerary as is, or change it around and fit in Westport? We want family fun for hubby and I and 2 young adult daughters, and we want to learn about Irish history, culture, music, etc. Also hubby is a biologist.

By the way, you're lucky you were in Ireland when you told the young man that you were the girl's mother and he should leave. Here in the USA he might have answered, "So?" or "No, I just want to talk to her...I just want..." etc. Travelling with young adult daughters, we've found it's best to communicate ahead of time what family expectations will be on vacation, and then making sure they know how to handle themselves...you know how it is...a lifetime of lessons, even now they're in college we still talk! Probably your daughter is younger. 13 is an impossible age with daughters, so impulsive. Thank goodness we're past that!

Well back to the subject. thanks for sharing. Also, did you like staying in Ballyvaughan as your base for County Clare? I'm considering Ballyvaughan or Doolin...(or lisdoonvarna but I hear it's not as scenic.)

Hi Melissa,
I hadn't checked posts in ages but I was just reading up on your upcoming trip!

We first went to Ireland in May of 2004, and then returned this summer. It was impulsive, but I simply couldn't bear to not go back. And I'm glad I did.

Our daughter is 22, our son 13 and my husband's a geologist, so both our travel groups have a lot in common! (Must go to pubs...must examine the ground...)

Last year we stayed in Doolin for a night and spent a week in Kenmare. I think I prefer Doolin to Ballyvaughan. Ballvaughan didn't seem to have much nightlife, unlike Doolin. Doolin is very central. But it's not a compact Irish town like Ennis or even Lisdoonvarna. The morning we were in Doolin my husband and I woke up early and went for a walk. We walked to the sea and then along the coast. The burren just emerges from the soil there and in May it was full of wildflowers. The gentians were in bloom!



Our favorite place we've stayed is Westport. I think because it's a real town, full of Irish people and very few Americans. Even in August most of the tourists were Irish, which was just delightful! Plus, the other thing we loved about Westport, was the quality and variety of daytrips. Clare Island, Achill Island, Croagh Patrick... There were great pubs and lots of exceptional music.

But looking at your itinerary, Westport may be a great destination for your NEXT trip to Ireland. On this trip, it would add too much driving. And every hour on the road is an hour you're not in the pub!

Have a great trip!

McShane, had to laugh..."must examine the ground"...yes, our hubby's have a lot in common! Plus we both travel with young adults as well.

I'm getting more excited just talking to you. I've read so much and talked to lots of kind people on-line. I think you're right, considering everything, Doolin would be a great base for our 3 nights in the Burren area, and it's near Cliffs of Moher and pubs. (Must examine the ground...)

But McShane, I just can't leave Westport out! Oh my Irish ancestors, I am tempted to leave Belfast area out just to fit in Westport but everybody says I will regret not checking out the areas my Irish grandmother was born and raised near Belfast. (The trouble is a geneological trip is a bit premature, I don't have precise info yet, I would just be looking at Belfast and saying, Wow, Irish "Nanny" was here...bet the town has change a bit since then...)

I just can't give up Dingle because there are reasons each person in the family will enjoy Dingle,it's a good balance for us.

Plus I have just complicating the itinerary by realizing we maybe should fly into and out of Dublin, both ways...(I originallly thought we would fly into Shannon and out of Dublin). Anyway that's another long story but it forces you to go in a circle...

Westport sounds even better now that you've told me there weren't a lot of american tourists, mostly Irish.

I've considered this busy itinerary but it's going faster than we like:

Fly into Dublin. Rent car.
1 night: Slane or Trim.
2 nights: Belfast area
2 nights: Westport
3 nights: Doolin
3 nights: Dingle Peninsula
1 night: Cashel or Galway (stopover)
2 nights Dublin
fly home.

I don't like 1-night stops, and with a biologist along, even 2-night stops are a bit hurried. (You know, they tend to wander off on a path nobody else can see to find something they alone think is delightful, which involves a climb...)

Thanks for listening and sharing your great info! Hubby is an adventurer and if I want to return to Ireland it will be without him after this first trip...that's because he always wants to explore someplace new! I have a feeling I will find a way to return to Ireland on my own though.

One of my favorite "Irish" meals is lasagne and chips!! lol...really good but so many carbs....yum!!! For me its a guilty pleasure..I would never eat them at the same time at home!
Glad I am not the only one!
Shadow

It sounds like a wonderful trip. I'm so glad others are going to Slieve League. We enjoyed it even though I had bronchitis and it was drizzling and blowing. In other words a "fresh" day.
I think the Moran's the other poster was asking about is Moran's Oyster Bar a bit south of Galway. It is supposed to be famouse but we were NOT impressed. This was in Sept 2001.

McShane, can't stop thinking about Westport since I read how much fun your family had there. I have read more about Westport and re-worked my itinerary like this: (what do you think? We like to spend 3 nights in 1 base hotel and do day-trips.

Fly into shannon. rent car.
1 night: Ennis or Bunratty
3 nights: Dingle Peninsula
3 nights: Doolin or Ballyvaughan
3 nights: Westport
2 nights: Belfast area
3 nights: Dublin (w/ Newgrange day-trip)
Fly home from Dublin.

Enjoyed reading your trip report...again!

Dear Melissa5,
I've been reading McShane's trip report as well, because we did some similar things. I loved Westport as he did. Might I suggest that you go to Ennis/Doolin on your first couple of nights - you can see the Cliffs of Moher, the Burren, all that checking out the ground stuff plus great pubs (particularly Doolin I hear) and then travel north to Co. Galway, thru Connemara to Leenane-Louisburgh (the fjord and falls are wonderful, through the Doo Lough pass around Clew Bay, past Croagh Patrick into Westport. The scenary was breathtakingly gorgeous and a great drive. Stay in Westport for a couple of days, exploring the area and then if you want to go south go back down through Shannon and Limerick to Tralee and Dingle. End in Cashel and drive back to Shannon from there. I must tell you that it took 4+ hours to get to Dingle from Bunratty and 5-6 hours to get from Cashel to Co. Mayo ( and not even Westport). That is long driving time, missing all of the sites along the way. I guess my point is don't underestimate the driving times. There are no straight roads in Ireland and they are all VERY narrow. NJSally

NJSally, thanks for the advice. I have been using aaroadwatch.ie to check driving times, but your input has made me realize that I have been looking at the driving times as simply a way to get from one town to another. However, as you have pointed out, there is more than one route, and a scenic route is preferable, but also could double the driving times listed on aaroadwatch (for all the stops which are the whole point of the journey!)

So, just when I thought I was at the finish line on itinerary planning, I am a bit mystified. what is the best plan, taking into account not just driving times but SCENIC drives?

Hubby mentioned that fijord you are talking about near Leenane. I think he would like to see it. Using my first itinerary (Plan A) above, I could drive from Kinvara or Galway via Leenane to Westport...aaroadwatch.ie says Kinvara(via Leenane) to Westport is 2 hrs. 43 minutes. Double that for scenic value and that might be a lovely day.

The same drive, but starting from Doolin, is an hour longer...

Well, more to ponder, thanks!

That solves one problem. I was wondering if it was silly to stay in Doolin or Kinvara or Galway, and then stay in Westport when they are all relatively close to one another. but now I realize that that allows more time to take a long meandering beautiful scenic route!

Thanks, NJSally. Curious if you are from New Jersey...I used to live there. Flat state! Cows might meander in Jersey, but not roads.

Melissa5,
Galway to Recess (the town nearest the road to leenane is 1.0 hours - very nice little towns you pass through like Oughterard and Maam Cross, not to mention that you could meander around Connemara a piece - to Roundstone and past Ballynahinch Castle or on to Clifden. There is also Kylesmore Abbey which is west of Leenane - very beautiful - long tour if you take the Abbey tour. Leenane is a nice place to stop for a little bite to eat. Nothing special, just a good stopping point. The Doo Lough Pass, just beyond the fjord, in that direction is from Delphi to Louisburgh - a distance of about 15 klicks. The famine story associated with it is that 600 townspeople from Louisburgh walked to Delphi to beg their landlord for more food. They were turned away and on the way back nearly 400 of them died. There is a nice memorial on the way and it is Ireland's Trail of Tears famine walk. I found it very thought provoking. Coming into Westport that way, you will also go through Murrisk where there is a famine ship memorial across the street from Croagh Patrick. Ah well, I wish I was back there already, yes I am from NJ, south as a matter of fact, and I even live on a farm and raise cows! Good luck in your planning, NJ Sally