Great Family Trip to Grindelwald
Jul 5th, 2006, 03:06 PM
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Great Family Trip to Grindelwald
Our family of 5 (3 boys-ages 8, 14, and 17) just returned from a trip to Switzerland and Italy. I got such great recommendations from this site, I wanted to return the favor and give some information to other families who are trip planning.
We had 3 days in Grindelwald. I know a lot of people think Grindelwald is too touristy, but I think it is perfect for a family. There are lots of restaurants to choose from and it is easy to take good hikes from there. I have previously stayed in Gimmelwald and Murren, and I think Grindelwald is the most convenient and cost effective, especially for a family.
We stayed at the Chalet Hohturnen in Grindelwald, which is an apartment run by the Hotel Gletschergarten. We LOVED it! It is at the far end of town from the train station. It is in a prettier, more quiet area than the hotels right in town. Our apartment had 2 bedrooms, one with a single bed and one with a double, and another larger bedroom with two twin beds and a couch. There was a balcony with a fabulous view of the Eiger. The chalet is not fancy, but it was spotless, and it was really nice to have so much room.
Upon our arrival, the owner of the Gletschergarten, Gabriela came running out to meet us and show us to our rooms. She could not have been nicer or more accommodating. She had wonderful suggestions for family activiites, having three boys of her own.
On our first day, we walked to the Pfingstegg cable car, which is right down the road from the chalet. It is a private operation, and does not accept the Swiss Junior Card or give the Eurailpass discount. However, Gabriela had given us a discount card, which gave us 20% off. At the top of the cable car, there is a fun alpine slide. My boys have done lots of these slides on trips out west and thought that this was one of the best. What views!
The next day, we took the cable car to First. Again, the station is a short walk from the chalet. We hiked to the Bachalpsee, which was an easy, pretty hike, and then down to Waldsplitz, where we stopped for drinks at an inn with a terrace with spectacular views. We continued hiking downhill to Bort, where on Gabriela's recommendation, we rented Trottibikes (scooters) for a fast, fun trip the rest of the way down to Grindelwald. That night we had good pizza at Onkle Tom's Hutte in Grindelwald.
Our last day, we took the train to Grindelwald Grund where we picked up the cable car to Mannlichen. What views from there! We took a beautiful, although somewhat crowded hike to Kleine Scheidegg. From there, we hiked to Wengen for lunch. The latter portion of the hike was nice, but not nearly as spectacular as the first part to Kleine Sch. From Wengen, we took the cable car back to Grindelwald Grund. A hail storm with lots of wind arrived in the middle of our trip--a little scary.
The prices of rail and cable car trips really add up for a family. We had Eurailpasses, which gave us 25% off Berner Oberland rail. When we arrived in Interlaken, we bought Swiss Junior Cards for 20 SF each for our two younger children. This enabled them to travel free everywhere (other than the Pfingstegg cable car), a real savings!
Thanks to everyone who gave me great suggestions for rainy day activities in the area, which we thankfully did not need I neurotically checked weather.com every day before we left, and the weather looked cool and rainy every day. In fact, we had a brief shower one afternoon, and it was in the 70's. So much for the fleece jackets I made everyone pack!
I think this area is such a wonderful place for a family trip, and compared to Italy, it felt empty! Hope this may give some good suggestions to others. I got such good advice before I left, I wanted to return the favor.
We had 3 days in Grindelwald. I know a lot of people think Grindelwald is too touristy, but I think it is perfect for a family. There are lots of restaurants to choose from and it is easy to take good hikes from there. I have previously stayed in Gimmelwald and Murren, and I think Grindelwald is the most convenient and cost effective, especially for a family.
We stayed at the Chalet Hohturnen in Grindelwald, which is an apartment run by the Hotel Gletschergarten. We LOVED it! It is at the far end of town from the train station. It is in a prettier, more quiet area than the hotels right in town. Our apartment had 2 bedrooms, one with a single bed and one with a double, and another larger bedroom with two twin beds and a couch. There was a balcony with a fabulous view of the Eiger. The chalet is not fancy, but it was spotless, and it was really nice to have so much room.
Upon our arrival, the owner of the Gletschergarten, Gabriela came running out to meet us and show us to our rooms. She could not have been nicer or more accommodating. She had wonderful suggestions for family activiites, having three boys of her own.
On our first day, we walked to the Pfingstegg cable car, which is right down the road from the chalet. It is a private operation, and does not accept the Swiss Junior Card or give the Eurailpass discount. However, Gabriela had given us a discount card, which gave us 20% off. At the top of the cable car, there is a fun alpine slide. My boys have done lots of these slides on trips out west and thought that this was one of the best. What views!
The next day, we took the cable car to First. Again, the station is a short walk from the chalet. We hiked to the Bachalpsee, which was an easy, pretty hike, and then down to Waldsplitz, where we stopped for drinks at an inn with a terrace with spectacular views. We continued hiking downhill to Bort, where on Gabriela's recommendation, we rented Trottibikes (scooters) for a fast, fun trip the rest of the way down to Grindelwald. That night we had good pizza at Onkle Tom's Hutte in Grindelwald.
Our last day, we took the train to Grindelwald Grund where we picked up the cable car to Mannlichen. What views from there! We took a beautiful, although somewhat crowded hike to Kleine Scheidegg. From there, we hiked to Wengen for lunch. The latter portion of the hike was nice, but not nearly as spectacular as the first part to Kleine Sch. From Wengen, we took the cable car back to Grindelwald Grund. A hail storm with lots of wind arrived in the middle of our trip--a little scary.
The prices of rail and cable car trips really add up for a family. We had Eurailpasses, which gave us 25% off Berner Oberland rail. When we arrived in Interlaken, we bought Swiss Junior Cards for 20 SF each for our two younger children. This enabled them to travel free everywhere (other than the Pfingstegg cable car), a real savings!
Thanks to everyone who gave me great suggestions for rainy day activities in the area, which we thankfully did not need I neurotically checked weather.com every day before we left, and the weather looked cool and rainy every day. In fact, we had a brief shower one afternoon, and it was in the 70's. So much for the fleece jackets I made everyone pack!
I think this area is such a wonderful place for a family trip, and compared to Italy, it felt empty! Hope this may give some good suggestions to others. I got such good advice before I left, I wanted to return the favor.
Jul 5th, 2006, 05:26 PM
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Hi Digbydog,
We, too, just returned (well, end of last week) from our trip to Wengen and Northern Italy. I know we both fretted over the weather forecast, but our weather was great....and you are right, much warmer than we thought so some of our heavier layers went unused.
I'm sorry we missed the alpine slide. We didn't venture to the Grindelwald/First area, but did the Mannlichen to Kleine Scheidegg hike and then the long way around and down to Wengen. We also walked from Lauterbrunnen to Trummelbache Falls to Stechelberg, then cabled up to Murren. I agree that this area of Switzerland is awesome for a family vacation (we were with our 2 boys, 12 and 15).
Sounds like you had a great time!
We, too, just returned (well, end of last week) from our trip to Wengen and Northern Italy. I know we both fretted over the weather forecast, but our weather was great....and you are right, much warmer than we thought so some of our heavier layers went unused.
I'm sorry we missed the alpine slide. We didn't venture to the Grindelwald/First area, but did the Mannlichen to Kleine Scheidegg hike and then the long way around and down to Wengen. We also walked from Lauterbrunnen to Trummelbache Falls to Stechelberg, then cabled up to Murren. I agree that this area of Switzerland is awesome for a family vacation (we were with our 2 boys, 12 and 15).
Sounds like you had a great time!
Jul 6th, 2006, 02:52 AM
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Digbydog and Fun4all4 -- I have some quick questions. How long was the hike from Bachalpsee continuing on as you did? And how about the hike from the Trummelbach Falls to Stechelberg? Did you hike in Murren also? Fun4all4, did you stay in Wengen? We are leaving tomorrow for our trip (3 teens) and are staying at the Alpenrose in Wengen for four nights. Did either of you go to top of Jungfrau and if so, how cold was it up there? I think I am overpacking and would love to leave the heavier jackets home (although I did just buy these cool compressor bags to smush things in the suitcase.)
Jul 6th, 2006, 03:54 AM
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Skatedancer--Lucky you to have the whole trip ahead of you! I wish I were going again. The hike from First to the Bachalpsee was about 1 hour and about another hour down to Waldspitz. Waldspitz down to Bort is steep with lots of switchbacks and takes about 40 minutes. The ride down on the trottibikes is very fast. We did not go to the top of the Jungfrau, as the weather was just not clear enough. I know from past experience that it is cold at the top. Have a great trip!!
Fun--I'm glad you had good weather too. We would have loved to do the trip you did from Lauterbrunnen to Murren, but we just didn't have time. Did you take the cable car back to Stechelberg? I remember my heart dropping as the cable car swung out over the cliff on the way down!!
Maureen--have a great trip! Hope you like the Chalet as much as we did!
Fun--I'm glad you had good weather too. We would have loved to do the trip you did from Lauterbrunnen to Murren, but we just didn't have time. Did you take the cable car back to Stechelberg? I remember my heart dropping as the cable car swung out over the cliff on the way down!!
Maureen--have a great trip! Hope you like the Chalet as much as we did!
Jul 6th, 2006, 04:22 AM
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Hi skatedancer,
You all will have an awesome time! Yes, we stayed in Wengen and we stayed at the Alpenrose which was terrific. I'm not sure exactly how the rooms are as they put us up in their 3 bedroom apt. just a couple of buildings up from the hotel. At first I was a little miffed (I had been traveling for almost 24 hours and those were not the original arrangements), however, it turned out to be the greatest. We had so much space and the views were spectacular. The service at the hotel was very good and the food delicious. The only thing about traveling there with teens is that it was definitely an older clientele staying at the hotel....although you might find that different since European schools were not out when we were there in June and they will be on vacation by the time you arrive. Nonetheless, it was a great place and the village and hiking were incredible.
As a tip, there is a small pub called Rock Bar (or Rocks Bar) that has free internet access if you buy a drink, whether that be a beer or a soda. The guy behind the bar was from New Zealand and very friendly. We went in there to watch some of the World Cup matches and my 15 yo went in a couple of times to get a soda and use the internet (of course, needed to IM and email his girlfriend - keeping in touch with home a bit made a big difference in his happiness - he was really delightful with us most of the trip and he appreciated the time to check in at home). It is tucked into a corner under or just next to Hotel Eiger near the train stop.
Anyway, we did not do the first hike you mentioned, Bachalpsee, so hopefully digbydog will chime in on that one. On our second day, we took the cog train from Wengen down to Lauterbrunnen and walked along the river valley to Trummelbache which took about an hour or maybe a bit more. From Trummelbache to Stechelberg was shorter, maybe about 1/2 hour or a little longer. There is also a bus from right in front of the Falls that can take you to Stechelberg. Our Swiss passes were good on all the buses. We then cabled up to Gimmelwald and on to Murren. In retrospect we might have tried the steep hike from Gimmelwald to Murren, but we had done a lot of walking/hiking by then. IN Murren we had a delicious lunch at Restaurant La Grotte at Hotel Blumental. We sat outside and had a friendly waiter. I had spaetzele (sp?) in brown sauce with mushrooms which I thought was very tasty, DH had veal sausage with rosti, D had salami/cheese sandwich, and J had the cheese fondue which was particularly good.
The hike from Mannlichen to Kleine Scheidegg is particularly scenic, but a bit busier than some of the other trails. We chose to take the long hike down to Wengen going through Biglenalp and Mettlenalp. It was fantastic, but Mannlichen to K.S. To Wengen by that route took almost 5 hours with a one hour lunch break.
The one thing we regret not doing was the tandem hangliding....we really didn't see it as an option till our second and last full day and just couldn't get it arranged in time.
As for the Jungrau, I know this sounds crazy, but we wound up not going. I had planned on it and brought layers including long underwear, fleeces, and gloves, but the weather and hiking was so great all 4 of us decided to stay put rather than go up. Also, there was a forecast for some clouds as the day went on and we didn't want to get all the way up there and be clouded in. We have been up high (10,000 feet) in the Rockies during the snowy winter....I know it is not the same, but we were just having so much fun, we changed our minds about spending our limited time on that trip. I did not carry a heavy coat...just long underwear/very thin, long sleeved shirt and my fleece plus a very small hat and gloves - I figured it would be warm enough and I did not want to carry a heavy coat around.
Where else are you going?
I hope this helps. Any other questions? Have fun!!
You all will have an awesome time! Yes, we stayed in Wengen and we stayed at the Alpenrose which was terrific. I'm not sure exactly how the rooms are as they put us up in their 3 bedroom apt. just a couple of buildings up from the hotel. At first I was a little miffed (I had been traveling for almost 24 hours and those were not the original arrangements), however, it turned out to be the greatest. We had so much space and the views were spectacular. The service at the hotel was very good and the food delicious. The only thing about traveling there with teens is that it was definitely an older clientele staying at the hotel....although you might find that different since European schools were not out when we were there in June and they will be on vacation by the time you arrive. Nonetheless, it was a great place and the village and hiking were incredible.
As a tip, there is a small pub called Rock Bar (or Rocks Bar) that has free internet access if you buy a drink, whether that be a beer or a soda. The guy behind the bar was from New Zealand and very friendly. We went in there to watch some of the World Cup matches and my 15 yo went in a couple of times to get a soda and use the internet (of course, needed to IM and email his girlfriend - keeping in touch with home a bit made a big difference in his happiness - he was really delightful with us most of the trip and he appreciated the time to check in at home). It is tucked into a corner under or just next to Hotel Eiger near the train stop.
Anyway, we did not do the first hike you mentioned, Bachalpsee, so hopefully digbydog will chime in on that one. On our second day, we took the cog train from Wengen down to Lauterbrunnen and walked along the river valley to Trummelbache which took about an hour or maybe a bit more. From Trummelbache to Stechelberg was shorter, maybe about 1/2 hour or a little longer. There is also a bus from right in front of the Falls that can take you to Stechelberg. Our Swiss passes were good on all the buses. We then cabled up to Gimmelwald and on to Murren. In retrospect we might have tried the steep hike from Gimmelwald to Murren, but we had done a lot of walking/hiking by then. IN Murren we had a delicious lunch at Restaurant La Grotte at Hotel Blumental. We sat outside and had a friendly waiter. I had spaetzele (sp?) in brown sauce with mushrooms which I thought was very tasty, DH had veal sausage with rosti, D had salami/cheese sandwich, and J had the cheese fondue which was particularly good.
The hike from Mannlichen to Kleine Scheidegg is particularly scenic, but a bit busier than some of the other trails. We chose to take the long hike down to Wengen going through Biglenalp and Mettlenalp. It was fantastic, but Mannlichen to K.S. To Wengen by that route took almost 5 hours with a one hour lunch break.
The one thing we regret not doing was the tandem hangliding....we really didn't see it as an option till our second and last full day and just couldn't get it arranged in time.
As for the Jungrau, I know this sounds crazy, but we wound up not going. I had planned on it and brought layers including long underwear, fleeces, and gloves, but the weather and hiking was so great all 4 of us decided to stay put rather than go up. Also, there was a forecast for some clouds as the day went on and we didn't want to get all the way up there and be clouded in. We have been up high (10,000 feet) in the Rockies during the snowy winter....I know it is not the same, but we were just having so much fun, we changed our minds about spending our limited time on that trip. I did not carry a heavy coat...just long underwear/very thin, long sleeved shirt and my fleece plus a very small hat and gloves - I figured it would be warm enough and I did not want to carry a heavy coat around.
Where else are you going?
I hope this helps. Any other questions? Have fun!!
Jul 6th, 2006, 04:28 AM
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digbydog, we must have been typing at the same time. Yes, we cabled back down and my heart was in my throat as we swung over and down. I really don't love heights so I spent a lot of the time on the cables with my eyes closed, but DH and the boys loved it. I got braver as the trip went on and began to peek so as to enjoy the view. 
Jul 6th, 2006, 04:40 AM
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Thanks all for the info. I am planning our trip for next August with our 2 boys, 17 and 12, so all your info really helps. We had already decided on Gindelwald, but I am not sure how far in advance to book. When did you all book your accomodation? We would like to do France and B.O, and I am allocating a day for the Jungfrau,so do you think 4 days enough to get an overview of the area. We are not serious hikers and will likely do the easy-moderate hikes. Also any idea about the Veg. choices in the restaurants, most posts mention veal/ sausage dishes so I am a concerned that food may be an issue.Thanks.
Jul 6th, 2006, 05:48 AM
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Yippee! Another Grindelwald lover! 
Now that you are hooked, you will probably find yourselves yearning to go back again and again. Once bitten, you'll never be the same!
The last few years, we've also begun staying in chalets. We love the extra room, and the price is right as well.
Last summer my parents went with us, and I got them to go down the alpine slide. It was so funny watching them because they were so sloooooow. It was difficult holding back the poor kids in line behind them. The kids wanted to "hit the pavement," but I kept them back until my parents were just about done. What kids can do in 1 minute, it took my parents about 5. But what a smile they had when they finished!
Although my DH has done the scooters from First, I've been a chicken to get on them. How did you REALLY feel about doing that? :-\
Now that you are hooked, you will probably find yourselves yearning to go back again and again. Once bitten, you'll never be the same!
The last few years, we've also begun staying in chalets. We love the extra room, and the price is right as well.
Last summer my parents went with us, and I got them to go down the alpine slide. It was so funny watching them because they were so sloooooow. It was difficult holding back the poor kids in line behind them. The kids wanted to "hit the pavement," but I kept them back until my parents were just about done. What kids can do in 1 minute, it took my parents about 5. But what a smile they had when they finished!
Although my DH has done the scooters from First, I've been a chicken to get on them. How did you REALLY feel about doing that? :-\
Jul 6th, 2006, 07:11 AM
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DOCK--We booked the Gletschergarten in September or October for our June trip. I like to book early so that I get the accommodations I want. However, at breakfast the hotel did not seem busy. As Fun said, school in Switzerland was not out yet and so it wasn't so busy in mid-June.
Koop--I also took the alpine slide slowly so that I could soak up those fabulous views. My two older boys were behind me and were ready to kill me. They wanted to go as fast as possible. I was a little scared on the trottibikes at first. You really fly! But it was a blast. Thankfullly, the brakes work well. You should try it next time!
Koop--I also took the alpine slide slowly so that I could soak up those fabulous views. My two older boys were behind me and were ready to kill me. They wanted to go as fast as possible. I was a little scared on the trottibikes at first. You really fly! But it was a blast. Thankfullly, the brakes work well. You should try it next time!
Jul 6th, 2006, 08:43 AM
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>>>>><<<We had 3 days in Grindelwald. I know a lot of people think Grindelwald is too touristy, but I think it is perfect for a family. There are lots of restaurants to choose from and it is easy to take good hikes from there.<<<>>>>>
Thank you. Just the points that I have been harping on for years in here.
And by staying on the other end of the village, you avoided most of the tourist activity. Did you find that the crowds thin out after 5 or 6? Mostly just those of us who enjoy the outdoor hiking and biking.
Glad you and family had a wonderful time.
"We got a thing we call the Madison blues....rock away the blues""
Elmore James George Thorgood
Thank you. Just the points that I have been harping on for years in here.
And by staying on the other end of the village, you avoided most of the tourist activity. Did you find that the crowds thin out after 5 or 6? Mostly just those of us who enjoy the outdoor hiking and biking.
Glad you and family had a wonderful time.
"We got a thing we call the Madison blues....rock away the blues""
Elmore James George Thorgood
Jul 7th, 2006, 01:19 PM
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Sunstar--Glad to know I am not alone. The town felt empty in the evening, although it wasn't really crowded even during the day. However, we were astounded at the number of Japenese tour groups. Our hotel owner told us that many Japenese do a 10 day tour of Europe and the Jungfraujoch is a must-see. We passed one group on a hike, and each of the 30 people on the tour said hello to each of us. It was delightful!
Jul 8th, 2006, 02:48 PM
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Yes I have seen the Japanese tour groups. Seems as though they stay at that big hotel named "Sunstar". No affiliation btw.
Many of the hiking, biking and backpacking crowd stay away from the main street or down at the far end of the street where you all stayed.
I like Grindlewald and I know the town gets busy in the day. The trains can get crowded also, but someone tell me where the crowds are not large on the trains in the Jungfrau area?
If people want more quite, then I'd suggest going to Kandersteg or Saas Fee or Grachen over in the Wallis area.
I like Saas Fee. Americans mostly avoid Saas Fee. It is a hot spot with German tourists though.
Zermatt is also touristy, but once you get off the main drag, Zermatt area is great. I like the hike up by the Findeln glacier especially. No big tour groups up there. Trust me!!!
Glad you enjoyed your trip.
Welcome back!!!
"Slip kid slip kid second generation...no easy way to be free" The Who
Many of the hiking, biking and backpacking crowd stay away from the main street or down at the far end of the street where you all stayed.
I like Grindlewald and I know the town gets busy in the day. The trains can get crowded also, but someone tell me where the crowds are not large on the trains in the Jungfrau area?
If people want more quite, then I'd suggest going to Kandersteg or Saas Fee or Grachen over in the Wallis area.
I like Saas Fee. Americans mostly avoid Saas Fee. It is a hot spot with German tourists though.
Zermatt is also touristy, but once you get off the main drag, Zermatt area is great. I like the hike up by the Findeln glacier especially. No big tour groups up there. Trust me!!!
Glad you enjoyed your trip.
Welcome back!!!
"Slip kid slip kid second generation...no easy way to be free" The Who
Jul 30th, 2006, 10:23 AM
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An alpine slide is a metal luge run which you take on a sled with wheels. It is almost always on the ground and shaped in such a way that you are unlikely to leave the track. This is one grandma that likes to go fast. Cheaper and safer than drugs for a 'mountain high'.
Jul 30th, 2006, 02:20 PM
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gopack--They are a blast!! You have a hand brake so that you can go as slow or fast as you want. I usually like to go fast, but the views were so breathtaking that I wanted to slow down and take it all in. Usually, you take a chair lift to the top and ride the sled down. On the Pfingsteg slide, however, after you slide down, you stay on the sled and it takes you back up on a cog system as if you are on a roller coaster. We first rode one near Mammoth Cave. They are all over the western U.S.
