DAX

Thanks packed, we did consider taking the train, but Bergamo to St Moritz would take more than 7 hour via Milan & Tirano (vs 3 hr drive). I also can not find a connection to arrive in Sils by train online.

Ingo

I realise the Waldhaus Sils is not the perfect place for everyone. It is for me, but I'm a big fan of history/tradition, old architecture and location/views.

It's one of the few remaining Grand Hotels in Switzerland that's still owned by the same family. Most of the hotel is preserved as back in 1908; modern amenities were added, of course. It's indeed the history of the hotel but also the warm, cosy atmosphere that make people return to the hotel. If you're more into modern hotels that offer huge wellness/spa areas, modern design (or fake old-world ambience), a choice of several restaurants with different types of cuisine from all over the world, then better stay away from the Waldhaus.

If you don't feel comfortable with the Waldhaus (and I get the impression that's the case), then there are other hotels in the Upper Engadine that might suit you better. Hotel Saratz in Pontresina, for example, or (more traditional) the Walther in Pontresina. I wouldn't stay in St. Moritz because it's really an ugly town, overbuilt and with too much traffic/noise.

The Castell in Zuoz underwent major construction works a while ago and has a mix of old and new now. Also a good choice. It's a bit isolated, above the village, but with a car this is no problem.

As for restaurants/memorable meals - I must say when I stayed in hotels in the Engadine I booked half-board, meaning dinner was included. And when I stayed in rental apartments I rarely ate out in the evenings, only for lunch, and mostly in mountain huts. So, unfortunately no special recommendations, sorry. (My favourite upscale restaurant in the Upper Engadine, Chesa Pirani in La Punt, was closed because the lease was not extended and the building was turned into an apartment house. A shame!)

Anyway, if you stay in the Waldhaus then you should try their a la carte restaurant - very good. Ditto for the Walther in Pontresina. There are several gourmet restaurants in the Upper Engadine, but I must admit I haven't had a meal in one (yet).

DAX

Thanks, Ingo, we are definitely staying at the Waldhaus for three reasons, your high recommendation, my grandparents loved it in the 50's, and the final clincher is we can get a nice insider arrangement through a friend of the family. I can never pass up a good deal. I was just trying to find out why the rooms are so expensive in comparison to other hotels in the area, maybe there is something unique about staying there. We do like dining in rustic old grand lodges for the warm atmosphere which the hotel seems to promote and I'm glad to know that you gave your thumbs up for their cooking.

We are thinking of staying the third night in Zuoz and will research the Castell further, but I have to admit the room pictures on tripadvisor look a bit funky. Has anyone stayed there recently?

I would be grateful for sightseeing ideas/strategy in the lower Engadine.




I

DAX

I am searching for unique/memorable places for lunch/dinner/picnic.

Ingo

Yep, funky. LOL Half of the rooms in the Castell are VERY modern, a bit over the top. I understand if this does not appeal to you Another, more traditional option in Zuoz is Hotel Engiadina. Other Fodorites have stayed there and liked it very much www.hotelengiadina.ch

However, I am not sure Zuoz is a good idea for the third night. It's half way between Sils and the Lower Engadine. If you want to do sightseeing in the Lower Engadine on the 3rd/4th days, then you better pick a hotel right in the Lower Engadine.

Scuol would be the most central place. The Belvedere is the leading hotel in Scuol, somewhat traditional with a modern annex and direct connection to the excellent spa "Bogn Engiadina" Definitely pick a room to the south - views! The restaurant in their other hotel Guardaval is VERY good - 13 points at Gault Millau. www.belvedere-scuol.ch

The other option in the area (IMO) is Schlosshotel Chaste in Tarasp, next to the castle (must see), vis-a-vis from Scuol on the other side of the valley. A very romantic hotel in "splendid isolation", so to speak. Swiss pine panelled rooms, very rustic/cosy. Also excellent food - the restaurant has 15 Gault Millau points.

As for sightseeing in the Lower Engadine - I know you're not too much into the typical stuff, so I'd say a short walk (maybe one hour) through one of the famous quaint villages, either Guarda or Ardez, would be fine. Guarda preferred, because they have one or two souvenir shops (check out the legend of Schellen-Ursli, picture books available), a shop with local herbal products (http://www.guarda-kraeuter.ch/) a shop where they sell the delicious local goat cheese, and lunch in either Hotel Meisser (sunny terrace with view) or Hotel Piz Buin is always a good choice.

In Scuol: Every Monday at 6 pm Butcher Hatecke shows how they make the dried beef meat (Bündner Fleisch), tasting included. Cost is 15 CHF. Of course you can buy his famous products anytime in his shop right next to the entrance of Bogn Engiadina spa at the main street.

In the small village Tschlin, high up on a sunny terrace above the Inn river, is an organic beer microbrewery. Organised tours once a week (Wednesday at 4 pm I think), reservation through www.scuol.ch (Tourist Info) or individually per request (email: [email protected]) Website: www.bieraria.ch

After the tour of the microbrewery is finished on Wednesdays, you can add a tour of the neighbouring cheesemaking Reservation necessary, too, through Tourist Info. Or try individually: http://www.chechaschöl.ch

Definitely have a taste of the free mineral water in the fountains of Scuol. There are a half dozen or so all over the small town, each with two taps, one for 'normal' water, the other for mineral water. Each mineral water is different, some taste really odd (but are good for your health ).

From time to time (basically weekly, dates on the Hotel Belvedere website) the Belvedere in Scuol has a wine tasting with the local wine shop Valentin (in Scuol and Pontresina). Of course you can have a look into their shops, too. http://www.valentin-wine.ch/vinotheken/

Back to the Upper Engadine: In Maloja, hamlet Pila, is the butcher Reto Giovanoli. His Bündnerfleisch is really famous. It's a short walk from the village.

Btw, there are several wine shops in Poschiavo where you can do tastings. The wine is mostly from the neighbouring Valtellina/Italy, because the Swiss still own vineyards/wineries there. Try e.g.:

www.la-torre.ch

www.bondolfivini.ch (right by the train station, with other local specialties)

www.plozza.ch (in Brusio, a bit down the valley, with showroom in Tirano)

DAX

Ingo,I could swear nobody else knows Graubünden like you do! Thank you for all the great sightseeing tips. Bündnerfleisch was my favorite processed meat during childhood (before I knew prosciuto!) so I would certainly enjoy going to the producers for tasting and watching how it's made. By the way, the Belvedere looks ideal for us.

Now that the dust has settled on my planning, I begin to realize that the Bernina Express is perfect for the lazy tourists like myself. From your other postings, I read that one can book hotel rooms to include funicular tickets and even train discount tickets. Some people who stayed in Pontresina seemed to get a free second Bernina ticket (buy one, get one free). The Waldhaus doesn't seem to have any such pauschal offer when I check their website. I wonder if I have to book it through a certain website.

DAX

I just figured out the "buy one get one" deal comes from hotels that offer Rh Railhit vouchers which the Waldhaus is probably not offering since it is not in the Bernina Route.

Ingo

As far as I know the RhB Railhit is only valid in winter:
http://www.rhb.ch/RhB-RailHit.2308.0.html?&L=4
(The Waldhaus Sils is on the list, btw.)

Most hotels in the Upper Engadine participate in the "public transportation and cable cars included" program (minimum stay two nights). If I recall correctly then Waldhaus Sils offers "Bregaglia valley included" as well (meaning that the buses beyond Maloja to Chiavenna are also included.) So your bus (to St. Moritz train station) + train ride on the Bernina route is covered as far as Alp Grüm. You just buy a round trip ticket from there to Poschiavo (or as far as you plan to travel). The Bernina route is indeed VERY scenic. I prefer the regional trains, btw, with the option of riding one of the open carriages (can get cold on the pass!)

DAX

Thanks for the regional train tip. Does it make sense to do one way on the RB open train (reserve seat?) and return with the Bernina Express to get a different experience? I imagine we can move to a different RB carriage that is enclosed if the open carriage gets too cold (unless the train is full of course). Coming from touring Italy, we're thinking that we should just go as far as Alp Grüm (get off to enjoy it) unless Poschiavo has a distinctive swissitalian atmosphere instead of Italian. I have a feeling we'd be sick of Italian pasta by then. I have read about the rustic tan colored Poschiavo pasta made from durum wheat, is it perticularly special?

I wonder if, on my initial way from Bergamo to Sils by car, I should lunch in Soglio first or in Maloja after visiting Reto Giovanoli's in Pila. Perhaps we should do a Bündnerfleisch picnic if there is very nice scenic place close by or just do a simple tasting at Reto? Unless there is a good lunch restaurant/stübe in Soglio or Maloja that we should try. We have such a limited time in Graubünden thus my detailed planning to hit as many good spots as we can.

Ingo

You cannot reserve seats on regional trains. Yes, you can move from the open carriage to an 'normal' enclosed carriage if it gets too cold.

I am afraid the Bernina Express doesn't stop at Alp Grüm. And not at Bernina Diavolezza (not sure, though). But you'll be perfectly fine with the regional train. The Express costs a surcharge and you must reserve a seat - you lose flexibility. Having lunch at Alp Grüm is also a good option.
http://www.daprimo.com/
Their food is surprisingly yummy - you can try specialties from Poschiavo here, too. I like their "Gemischter Puschlaverteller" e.g.:
Bresaola, prosciutto, Coppa, Misolta, Puschlaver Mortadella,
Salami and cheese.

Another specialty are the Capuns (yummy!), or try the Pizzoccheri that you mentioned above (from durum wheat, and yes, it is special.)

Try a Pinot Noir (Blauburgunder) from Graubünden. From Schloss Salenegg (bottle) is excellent, the von Salis is not that much behind (by the glass). Or a bottle from Poschiavo/Valtellina region (La Torre, Plozza). You see, no need to travel all the way to Poschiavo to try the local food specialties.

On the way back you can hop off the train at Bernina-Diavolezza and ride the cable car up and down - included with the stay in the Waldhaus, and the views are gorgeous from the top. (Weather co-operating ...)

There is a place for picnic with beautiful views in Maloja. It is right by the old tower "Belvedere", a five or ten minutes walk from the post office/Segantini atelier. There's most likely even a shortcut from Reto Giovanoli's to the tower/viewpoint. From there you can overlook the pass road, the hairpin curves and down the Bregaglia valley. On the other hand - Soglio is a must see and I had wonderful meals there. My favourite was the romantic garden of Palazzo Salis (no views, though) www.palazzosalis.ch, another great place is www.stuagranda.ch with terrace overlooking the valley (oops, saw they are under new management since Dez 2013) - the local specialty is anything with chestnuts/marroni.

You cannot go wrong either way - I guess it could be too early for lunch in Soglio. If not, I'd want to be on the safe side and have it there (Who knows, maybe Giovanoli's place is closed that day? Or it starts raining?)

I.

DAX

You thought of everything, I appreciate all the detailed info and options, exactly what I was hoping to get. Thanks, I'm set for Graubünden!