ekscrunchy

I am seriously considering a long-planned visit to Granada in January. After reading many threads here, I have decided that we do not want to stay on the Alhambra hill, but would prefer to be closer to the center for tapas, shops and sights. I particularly want to be able to walk to good (not touristy) restaurants at night, but willing to take taxis. I would like either a hotel in the center or at the edge of the Albaicyn nearest the center How far would this be?- (I am having a difficult time understanding the layout of the city due to the hilly topography that does not show on maps) Extra points for great Alhambra view from room, but this is not necessary given other criteria.


After spending the better part of an afternoon reading Maribel's Granada guide, http://maribelsguides.com/mg_granada.pdf, TA, Fodor's, and hotel websites, I have come up with these ideas and would love to hear comments on their locations and the experiences of anyone who has stayed there recently:


AC SANTA PAULA--This would be my first choice except for the price, which totals about 247 with tax and breakfast in the "old" section; about 40 euro less in the new section. 2011 rates are still not posted but I wrote to the hotel and inquired. Willing to splurge only if the hotel is really so special and well located.

VILLA ONIRIA--5-star with rooms available for about 146 with breakfast, but there are rather poor reviews on TripAdvisor, mostly regarding service issues. Any recent experiences?

PALACIO DE LOS NAVAS--Good prices--junior suite available for about 180; rooms on Venere for about 136, with breakfast. How is the location? Many comments about noise here.

FONTECRUZ--new hotel. 150 with breakfast. Sounds like a good bet; how is location?

STA ISABELLA LA REAL--#1 on TA; tower room for 165 with Alhambra view. How far is this Albaicyn hotel from the center? Is it at the edge of the quarter, or located high up the hillside?

LADRON DE AGUA--Looks charming; many noise complaints especially on weekends (our visit will include a weekend). Is this a good location, near both the center and the Albaicin hillsides? I've written for prices.

So again, we are willing to splurge and want to find a hotel well located for our needs. Do not want to be in the scruffy/kasbah-ish areas of the Albaicin. Extra points for charm. Noise is a small concern but we are not particularly light sleepers. We have no mobility issues but do not want a huge uphill trek day after day just to reach the hotel... Do not care much either way about odd bathroom configurations.

I am over the moon with excitement about the prospect of returning to Spain. (We are planning a week split between Granada and Madrid, taking the train south mid-week, but willing to explore any and all other options; travel partner prefers not to rent a car this time)

Muchas gracias!!!!

Aduchamp1

You should have a drink or dinner at the parador with its view of the Generalife.

ekscrunchy

Good tip! I will put it on my list. Where did you stay and did you like the location/hotel?

Paul1950

We had lunch at the Parador--a bit expensive but certainly atmospheric and worth it as a one-shot experience.

We enjoyed our stay at Hotel Anacapri. Well located on Calle de Joaquin Costa--Sort of between Plaza Nueva and Plaza de Isabel la Catolica. There's a nice tapas bar on the same street half a block from the hotel. Clean, good service (one of the managers is from Iowa). We walked everywhere from the hotel--2 or 3 minutes to the Cathedral, Plaza Nueva, Plaza de Isabel la Catolica (where you can catch the shuttle to the Alhambra).

The hotel even made our Alhambra reservations for us at no extra charge. We had Rick Steves guidebook, so we got the hotel breakfast for free--though I'm not sure how long that offer lasts.

greg

If you are interested in AC Santa Paula, one strategy is to see what is the last minutes walk up price. I was in the hotel lobby when a young couple just walked up to the registration and was quoted a price significantly lower than the rack rate. Of course, you should have a backup plan.

BeachGirl247

I second the tip for having a drink and a meal on the patio of the parador. The view from their is lovely.

We stayed at Hotel Alhambra and liked it's location. I think next time we'll look into Hotel America located in the royal citadel of the Alhambra. Really looked charming.

I would also recommend finding a spot across from the Alhambra for evening. Huerto de Juan Ranas at the St. Nicholas viewpoint was a stunning place to see the Alhambra lit up at night.

Robert2533

We prefer the Carmen de la Alcubilla del Caracol at the top of the Alhambra hill, but are familiar with you short list of choices.

AC SANTA PAULA - The historic section is nicer than the modern area facing the street, but overall it's one of the nicer hotels in Granada and an excellent location. Easy access to everything. Excellent staff and services as you expect with all of Antonio Catalán's hotels.

VILLA ONIRIA - very nice and comfortable. The area's not bad, not too busy, but a little more of a walk from the more active areas of the city.

PALACIO DE LOS NAVAS - An excellent choice for a 3-star property. More of a romantic get-away, but the location is fine.

FONTECRUZ - We stopped by in late March to check this one out and was impressed. Excellent staff. It's located across the street from the AC SANTA PAULA.

STA ISABELLA LA REAL - We've walked by on a few occasions, but have not stayed here. The hotel is nice and area is fine, at the top of the Albaicín (great in the daytime), but I prefer to be closer to the center of the city for walking around at night.

LADRON DE AGUA - It's a nice property, a member of Rusticae, but yes, it can be noisy at night, but if you want to be in the lower Albaicín, it's okay.

There is another small hotel, Casa Morisca, just up from Ladron de Agua on Paseo de los Tristes where Matt Damon and his family where staying in March, just before we arrived in Granada. It's quite nice inside and the staff is friendly and helpful. It sits just below the Alhamba. (http://www.notodohoteles.com/hotels/...a/casa-morisca).

ekscrunchy

Thanks to all who responded.

Robert: An extra thank you for all of the informative detail. I did look at Casa Morisca and the rooms look lovely but I think we would rather be closer to the center of town, not on the Alhambra hill. I know that Maribel favors the Carmen de la Alcubilla del Caracol but it seems as if staying there entails quite a walk to restaurants...I will give it another look, though since both of you are so keen on the place..

Can you give more detail about the differences between the lower Albaicin and the city center?

Based on what you write, perhaps the Fontecruz is the best choice for us, unless I can score some kind of deal at the Santa Paula. Greg has a good tip about trying for last minute rates. They have not even posted their 2011 rates yet!

Sorry for so many questions--believe it or not, I have been in Granada when I was in college but it was so long ago that I barely remember anything except the majesty of the Alhambra! I hope that you will "stay tuned" here when I begin asking about restaurants!
HAve you by any chance heard of a seafood place called something like marisqueria FM, located outside the city center and accessible by car or taxi?

bardo1

<i>Can you give more detail about the differences between the lower Albaicin and the city center?</i>

The center area (even where the Cathedral is) is quite modern - the charming Albacin area is obviously NOT modern.

I stayed at Casa Morisca and found it quite convenient (and very quiet even though it was only 1 block up from the pedestrian plaza by the river). We easily walked up to the Alhambra from the Casa Morisca, crossing the river about a block west of the hotel and taking a small back street up the hill.

I think the Albacin is a great home base, although the Ladron de Agua is TOO close to the restaurants, cafes, etc., IMO. Find a hotel one block or more away from the river and it's suddenly MUCH quieter.

Robert2533

Sometimes waiting until the last minute works if there is nothing going on on your dates, but hotels offer their best rates online (non-refundable web fares).

It's all downhill from the Camen, so getting to the middle of the city isn't a problem, you're there in 15 minutes or so. They've repaved the path (stone pavers most of the way). You can catch the bus up the hill when you want to return, or walk up the stairs. The bus stops at the Alhambra Palace Hotel, 3 minutes walk from the Carmen.

ekscrunchy

So both of you think that the charm of the city is not to be found in the center, yes? Would the Albaicin be analagous to the Barrio de Santa Cruz in Sevilla?

Am I correct that the Carmen is on the Alhambra hill and the Morisca is in the Albaicin?

Somehow I am laboring under the impression that the better eating spots are NOT in the Albaicin--is this correct?

My dates, if we stick to the current plan, are to visit the city for 3 nights from 13 January....do you know if there is anything going on that week/weekend?

Robert2533

The center is very nice, but I like being able to look out at the Sierra Nevada from the Carmen and south over the city. It's also quiet in the evening and Manuel is an excellent host.

Yes, the Carmen de la Alcubilla del Caracol is on the Alhambra hill, very close to the Alhambra (a short walk), just 100 meters or so from the Alhambra Palace Hotel.

There are some decent restaurants in the Albaicín, both on the upper and lower areas. The problem with the restaurants offering views of the Alhambra is often the view is better than the price of your meal. You'll find a little better price/value/flavor option in the center of the city. The AC's restaurant is very nice, and we like Restaurant Oliver, Plaza de la Pescadería, 12 (www.restauranteoliver.com/OLI/HOME.html).

I haven't checked what's going on in January, but you should be able to find out at: http://www.granada.org/

bardo1

Yes, the Barrio Santa Cruz analogy is spot on. Except that the Barrio de Santa Cruz is flat whereas the Albaicin is hilly (though less so than, say, Positano).

There are good (and bad) eating spots all throughout the city. I think you are well traveled enough to have good instincts (avoiding multi-language menus, "perfect view" restaurants and barkers trying to pull in diners, etc.). I would also look into additional sources besides Fodor's and guidebooks for your Granada restaurant research.

ekscrunchy

Thanks a lot, Bardo and Robert. I am probably in the minority here but I am always leery of restaurants with views, so I will remember your words on this trip.. I can read Spanish so perhaps I can find some websites with reviews of places that locals recommend..I tend to do a lot of research on eating places, as that is one of my main interests when I travel..

I will be sure to keep Resturant Oliver on the list--it looks great!

For a hotel, I am leaning toward Casa Morisca. I have been informed that neither room 14 or room 15--both with Alhambra views--are not available for my dates in January.

The Mirador room, at e210 including breakfast, is available. This is quite a bit more pricey than the Fontecruz, for example, but I think that perhaps it will provide a much more memorable experience than even a luxury hotel in the center...as long as it is easy to walk from the Casa Morisca to the center, and to other sites...

I am planning three nights in Granada and will plan to take the early morning train from Madrid. So I would then have the remainder of the day of arrival, plus two full days after that. We will not have a car.

I have read so many sad tales of the Renfe website that I wonder what my options are for purchasing train tickets for a weekday in January. (Ask the Madrid hotel to buy them for me??? Can I wait to buy them in Madrid at the station a few days before I plan to travel?)

kakiebell

We just returned from Spain and stayed at the AC Santa Paula in a superior room. We stayed in the older section of the hotel and it was worth every euro. The room has ceilings of wooden beams, the beds were comfortable, the air conditioning worked perfectly and it was so quiet you felt like you were still in a convent.
The staff is very friendly and helpful. After we checked in, we went to our room to find a tray of fresh fruit and a chilled bottle of water with two wine glasses. Couldn't be more welcoming. You are next door to the cathedral, a five minute walk to the Albacyn, bus stop at the front door to anywhere you want to go and restaurants and shops all around the area. It was a real treat. Do it if you can afford it.

ekscrunchy

Kakie: Thanks so much. The AC looks gorgeous; I have sent an inquiry about 2011 rates, which do not seem to be posted yet. It is good to know that you enjoyed staying in the center of the city.

BTW: I made an error about the Casa Morisca price; mirador room is 170e with tax but w/o breakfast.

summer08bride

We will be in Granada Friday and Saturday, and are staying at solar MontesClaros. We are most excited to stay here -- all rooms have terraces/patios, our room has a view of the Alhambra, and they have been exceptionally responsive and helpful with all of my e-mails. I can answer Qs after we return but it's worth looking into

txtree

I'm following in your footsteps, ekscrunchy. We will be in Granada at the end of November. We thought about splurging for the Parador or finding another place on the hill, but our Spain expert friend thinks we will enjoy being closer to the Plaza Nueva. So now I am thinking about many of the same places you are. The AC looks great and is in a wonderful location, but I also am not sure the splurge is worth it. Also have inquiries to Casa Morisca. Will keep you posted what we decide and will report back when we return.

ekscrunchy

TX: Good--we can compare notes! I got a response from the e-mail I sent to the AC--they have not posted their rates yet for January.

I ended up booking Casa Morisca with lots of hesitation. But I am still keeping my options open and will continue to check for any specials at the AC.

I am particularly interesting in finding good eating places since there appear to be many mediocre options in Granada.

Where else are you traveling next month? Madrid?

txtree

Yes, we will be in Madrid for 2 days and then Seville for 3 days. I will definitely scout out the food options for you in Granada. I like to eat well!