Thanks everyone for your thoughts. I may get a SIM card and the TIM for visitors plan. It would be about the cost of the Verizon international plan but with significantly more data. Definitely paper maps as a back up. I have a paper map phobia--childhood trauma, don't ask :) so do not want to be the navigator relying solely on paper. I use google maps extensively for traveling here in the US so would be comfortable using it in Italy.