Good base for visiting Le Marche region
 

We (2 people)have a week at the end of our vacation in the Rome and Amalfi Coast area in October and would like to spend some time in the Le Marche region - we have previously travelled in Italy and enjoyed the smaller country towns. We will have a car but would prefer to do day trips from a central base. Can someone suggest where we could base ourselves so that we can see some of the places of interest. We are not so much interested in the coast but more the inland areas - Macerata,Caglia,Ascoli Piceno, Urbino . How much of the region could we expect to see in a week? I have investigated the Le Marche region websites but I'm not clear on how difficult it is to travel across the hillier areas from west to east, for instance. If we stay in one place for a week an apartment seems the way to go. Have found the Slow Travellers website very informative for apartment accommodation but would be grateful for any other information that anyone can provide on places to see and accommodation experiences.

Can no-one help?

I can help! I think. Anyway, I am currently living in Le Marche, (no, I'm not an Italian, I just love Italy) and find Le Marche to be one of my favorite regions in Italy (I tend to be a little biased, though, since I live here and all). Anyway, I would definitely reccommend the car option if staying here in Le Marche, since some of the most charming towns (Urbino, San Ginesio, Recanati, Sirolo) are not reachable on the train line, and buses can tend to be a hassle.<BR><BR>In a week, I would think you could see a good part of the region, or at least the towns you've mentioned (which include north, central, and south). Recently, my parents visited me here, and they rented a car and just stayed at a reasonably priced albergo, which is findable, considering Le Marche is not highly touristy. I would suggest staying in, of the 4 towns mentioned, Macerata. If not Macerata, somewhere in this central part, since it will be easier to access both Urbino and Ascoli. Don't stay in a beach resort town--in my opinion this would be the most expensive, due to the fact that those areas are rather touristy.<BR><BR>In terms of renting an apartment, I can't give you advice on that.<BR><BR>Anyway, that's a start, and I will post again with info on places to go. What places have you looked at and been interested in since posting this?<BR><BR>Ciao!

Topping just to see if, Francine, you did go ahead and visit Le Marche? if so, what did you think? where did you go?

Is it really possible that Urbino is not accessible by train? is the area well served by buses instead?

Train service between Pesaro and Urbino was discontinued about 30 years ago, although the old tracks (covered by weeds) are still visible. Today, there is frequent bus service from Pesaro and fewer buses from Fano. Service is limited on Sundays. Travel time is about one hour, and the fare is about 2.50 Euros each way. From the Pesaro train station, turn right and walk about 50 yards. Buses leave from directly in front of a cafe, where tickets are sold. The road to Urbino is very scenic. The bus depot in Urbino is just outside the city walls, in a large square. You must walk uphill to reach the town center (uncomfortable with heavy suitcases). Urbino of course is simply wonderful.

We have stayed at Albergo Monte Conero at the top of that promentory on the coast just above Ancona. Its an old monastary with views of the sea and quite a good kitchen. Your intended visits to Marche cities can, I believe, be done in day trips (by car). I must agree that Marche is relatively untouristed and that Macerata is, IMO, a wonderful town.

Besides Urbino, another good visit from Pesaro would be Gradara. I visited there recently and felt oddly transformed into a touristy world, but still. the views are breathtaking from those hills. Anywhere in Pesaro's province might be nice considering the places you could visit: Urbino, Gradara, Pesaro, even San Marino and San Leo. Now, having visited Abruzzo, I might consider more basing a trip in Ascoli Piceno or around (something like Offida would be a great little town). Many people would say that Le Marche gets more beautiful the further south you go, and there's definitely a sense of increased hospitality in the southern areas of the region as well.

By the way, DRJ: what were you doing in Macerata? Just visiting?

Jackie

Jackie:

Just visiting, I'm afraid. I spent a great Saturday morning there. The streets full of shoppers and lookers. A very upscale town. My second trip to Macerata and I'd go back again.

As you have a car, you can visit all towns on day trips.
I just propose to have a look on the following site. Maybe a countryside B&amp;B might interest you.
http://spazioinwind.libero.it/lagirandola1/index.html

DRJ:

actually just wondering where you'd heard of it--most guide books don't mention it and half the italians haven't heard of it either :). anyway, glad you enjoyed it. le marche is such a great region: completely off the beaten path, yet as stunning geographically as anything in tuscany.

Hello Jackie,

I'm visiting in January (why? 'cos I am!), and am going to visit- you guessed it- a coastal town! Fano, to be exact. I have a friend who lives in Fano. Do you have any thoughts as to good places to stay there? Also, I was wondering, what is the coast like during the winter? I don't mean &quot;cold&quot;, more like the atmosphere. Has it got a beauty quite different to the summer, or is it dull and dreary?

In any case whatever I find I will still look forward to seeing it.

Widya Santoso

Jackie,

would you believe it? I reply to this thread, browse down, find the thread I initated, and you've already answered me! Thanks for the quick service! ?:-)

Widya Santoso

Jackie:

I travel to Umbria twice a year. I now fear that Umbria is being &quot;Tuscanized&quot;, and am more and more drawn to Le Marche. (Besides, it has a coast, too.)

Sydney2K: that IS funny about the post. I actually remember responding to that recently :). I have never actually been to Fano, but I have a friend who went and loved it. There are some real gems of coastal towns in Le Marche--maybe not quite the same as Cinque Terre towns, but still great. You should consider visiting Sirolo and Numana--beautiful even in winter.

DRJ: I've heard that sentiment about Umbria as well--becoming to 'found.' Not nearly as hidden. Although I think the Umbrians are a lot quieter about their treasures than the Tuscans, and the Marchigiani even less so :).

I stayed at the hotel atop Monte Conero in September, so visited Sirolo several times. A wonderful little town. Also drove about halfway from Sirolo to Ancona. There is a turnoff (wish I could remember the name) to a small beach that was, on the last Sunday in September, wall to wall people. I had to wait TWO hours for a table at one of the beachfront restaurants. What a great, wild day!

DRJ:

I wonder why it was so crowded that time you visted?! A festival? Final weekend at the sea? Hmmm.

Anyway, that drive around Monte Conero (from Ancona to Sirolo) is one of my favorite drives in the region. It's a good afternoon drive, through lush countryside. We stopped on the way in a very little town called Poggio and dined at the cutest little restaurant there: we loved it so much we took home the placemats! and we drank lots of rosso conero--yum!!

where else in Le Marche have you been? Have you visited Ascoli Piceno or any of those Southern areas?

Jackie:

The turnoff to the beach (pebbly) is called Porto &quot;Something&quot;, but there's no town there, just a parking lot with a &quot;pay me&quot; attendant, four or five &quot;beachy&quot; ristoranti and the beach and beautiful sea. Indeed, the crowd was there that Sunday because of the beautiful weather and that &quot;last day at the beach&quot; atmosphere. BTW, the wait that day was bearable because of the abundance of pretty good white wine.

I've been to Ascoli a couple of times for the stuffed deep fried olivi, also to Urbino and Osimo, which, IMO, is a terrific little town.

was it Portonovo by chance? that's a great little town near Sirolo. I guess it has sort of a &quot;high town&quot; and the rest is beach and restaurants, with a great little romanesque church if you walk far enough. We walked along the beach at sunset--talk about breathtaking.

I have only been through Osimo in a bus and didn't stop to see anything. You would reccommend it? I will add it to my list. Thanks!!

Portonovo it is! I've been there three times now. The ristorante furthest north is my favorite.

I definately recommend Osimo.