Very exciting, glover. For once you could be glad your train was delayed! How often does that happen.

I'm enjoying your report, and I love the "late mornings;" I usually feel too guilty to indulge.

Hola Glover and Mr. G. I cannot tell you what a pleasure it has been to wake up with you both...and to join in your pleasure and adventures from Paris to Valencia.......Gloria notwithstanding. You have surely whetted our appetite for a trip to Spain...following in many of your plans...even the rainy days you turned to lemonade - or paella :). We are in hot, breezy, sunny Montevideo....kind of a quiet, lovely time away. Looking forward to reading more about your trip. ~Marnie

So glad you liked Valencia despite the rain. I've been there twice now and would love to go again - it's such a lovely city with lots to do and see or just sit about and enjoy. And of course in the summer there is the beach too.

Fabulous reading.

Granada.

Take a taxi from the train station to our Hotel Vincci Albaycin in city center. It was billed as a good value and well located. It checks those boxes and has lots of services, but hallways are drab and our room, with comfy bed and great shower, is small and kind of claustrophobic. After settling in, we go out in search of dinner close by. The first tapas bar recommended turns out to be only a few bar seats and cold inside, so we pass that by and end up at the very casual D’Platos, which appears popular with locals. The menu is extensive, something for everyone, tapas, entrees, all kinds of odd sounding combinations of flavors. We order a collection of tapas, including one that is more or less a cheeseburger on “glass”? bread. Have nice conversation with server, who turns out be be from Colombia, one of our favorite places. All the food is very good. We end up going back there twice for breakfast. Great coffee, too.



Our tickets for entry to the palace at the Alhambra, bought on line ages ago, are not until tomorrow am. The weather is cool today, but mostly sunny, so we decide to walk up through the old Albaycin neighborhood to the mirador of St Nicholas. The walk through the narrow cobbled streets is fun and the views of the Alhambra across and city below are great. Take lots of pictures. We are bemoaning fact that our Alhambra tickets are for tomorrow, when forecast is for a lot of rain. Checking on line, it seems there are suddenly some available tix for today, so we walk back down the hill from mirador and back up the hill to Alhambra entry. The line for tickets isn’t terribly long, and employee says there may still be some by time we reach front of line. When we tell her we already have tix for tomorrow that we would just eat price of in exchange for a better day, she suggests we will be able to buy garden tickets for today, even if palace entry is sold out. Indeed, that’s what we did, as palace entry sold out for the nday just before we got to front of line. We spent the rest of the nice day exploring Generalife, the gardens and outer buildings of the Alhambra. Even in January the grounds are beautiful, the thick green hedges and walkways, orange and pomegranate trees. And, as gardeners, we enjoy seeing small areas cultivated for greens, herbs, and other cooler weather crops. And of course there are fabulous views at every turn. We are so pleased to have seen the grounds on a nice day, even if we end up spending an extra 7 E each to do it. But like it or not, we’ll have to see the palace next day in rain.



Walk all way back down to hotel and have a short rest. I do some some restaurant research and come up with a nice sounding little Italian place “Divino Ristorante Italiano”- it’s within a short walk and appears to be open for biz at our gringo geezer dinner hour of 7pm. Walk around corner from our hotel to promenade along Darro River. Indeed the restaurant is open, and we of course are the only customers there. This turns out to be an advantage as we receive special treatment from server Marcello and chef/owner Marco! Marco comes out of the kitchen to greet us, and what a delightful fellow he is. Originally from Rome, he has been working in restaurants and cooking since age 14. Before starting his first solo venture 3 years ago, he worked many years for the German owned Italian restaurant chain Vapiano. He mentioned visiting DC (as well as other international locations). because there are apparently 2 Vapianos there. Who knew. We had quite a nice conversation with Marco, who offered to make us something special and suggested pasta with truffles and carbonara with Italian ham. We were happy to comply and both were very good. He makes pasta fresh each day. Also had nice plate of grilled veggies, 2 desserts, and complementary limoncello. A very nice, relaxing experience!



Next day (Saturday), as predicted, rain is coming down hard. We have good overpriced breakfast buffet at hotel and then get a taxi to take us up to the Alhambra palace entrance. We walk inside the rather plain Carlos V palace near Nasrid Palace entry, while we wait for our 10am entry time into Nasrid. Then we have to queue (under umbrellas in pouring rain) with other individuals with same timed tickets. Meanwhile a number of guided groups enter separately. All that takes nearly half an hour. There are LOTS of individuals and groups touring the spectacular palace on even this very rainy day in January. But still very worth the effort! The architecture and decoration are truly stunning. We spend about two hours there, sometimes undercover and others under rain. By the time we are able to get a taxi back to the hotel, we’re pretty soaked, but delighted to have seen the palace even in the rain, and the gardens on the beautiful day before! With rain coming down most of rest of afternoon, we are happy to get out of wet clothing and hunker down at hotel. I do some more restaurant research for something easy in walking distance and decide on Fogon de Galicia. Rain has mostly stopped, so we walk a little further this time to the restaurant’s location in the Realajo neighborhood, having made an early reservation on line. It’s another small, casual place with bar and 10 tables or so. And of course we’re first to arrive. Place really fills up quickly though, mostly with locals, eventually standing 2 deep at bar. The sole waitress does a great job of handling all seated customers on her own. I have something new to me, grilled zamburinas, which are tiny Galician scallops. Very tender and sweet, but not always easy to detach from their much larger shells (they’re served on half shell). Makes for a lovely plate though. Mr G has pork medallions, which he declares good enough. We split a starter of cod fritters. Was fun just to watch the busy local scene at this obviously popular restaurant.



We have yet another day in lovely Granada, and it appears that it will be a sunny one. We have another breakfast at neighboring D’Platos and then go out for a longgggg all day walk. We decide to aim first for the Monasterio de Cartufo, then Sacromonte, and then the Royal Chapel of the Monarchs and the Granada Cathedral.



Nice to walk up the Gran Via Avenue. Lots of people out in sun on Sunday on this elegant street lined with many beautiful buildings. The monastery, Gothic style on the outside, has been billed as kind of a hidden gem off the main tourist track. It has the standard lovely interior courtyard with orange trees. We use the audio guides to learn about the simple life there, visiting the refectory and then, by contrast, the very ornate Baroque chapel. Very unsimple to say the least!!



Then walk up to the Sacromonte neighborhood, another hilly beautiful area with narrow winding cobblestone streets, famous for its historically interesting white cave houses and beautiful views of the Alhambra. The cave houses date back to the 16th century when they were created by people cast out from the city during its Christian takeover - including Romani people, Muslims, Jews. The neighborhood continued to be occupied by Romani for centuries, though most have now moved elsewhere . The neighborhood still retains a bit of Bohemian feel, though it is obviously becoming more and more touristy. Amazing large cacti on hills up there too..



We wend our way back down the hill to city center. Then visit the Royal Chapel of the Monarchs and the enormous Cathedral next door. The chapel is notable as the burial place of the Catholic monarchs, Isabella and Ferdinand - very elaborate Carrera marble burial monuments. In the Cathedral we were stunned by the sheer size of it, and its many enormous columns.



We return to the hotel and collapse for awhile. We decide that another nice relaxing dinner at our friend Marco’s Italian Place would be a nice way to end our long day of walking and our last day in Granada. So there we are again on his doorstep, obscenely early and hence his only customers. Marco thanks me profusely for giving him a nice review on TripAdvisor. This time we split a great spinach salad and each have entrees with prawns, both excellent.



Next day we are back at the friendly D’Platos restaurant for breakfast, then take a taxi to the bus station for our bus trip to Cordoba. There are trains, but all arrived in Córdoba too late in day to suit us. In any case, bus was very comfortable and easy, great roads with little traffic, and, as Mr G. said, it was nice to get roadway perspective after so many railway ones. Indeed, the scenery between Granada and Córdoba is wonderful - mostly gently rolling hills and hills of olive groves.



Next up, Cordoba.

So happy to see another post, especially one about such a beautiful place. We are gardeners too, and Granada made us wish for Spring! Thanks for posting so faithfully, Can you just keep traveling through the rest of the year?
-Annie

Cordoba.

We arrive in Córdoba in early afternoon, taxiing from train station to our Hotel Hacienda Posada de Villana, just across the street from Cordoba’s main attraction, the Mezquita. It’s a nice little hotel housed in a historic building that retains some of its original arches, etc from centuries ago. We have another cup of coffee and ham/cheese pastry in little cafe connected to the hotel and then set off to explore the city. Pretty decent day today, high 50s and some sun.



Walk across the long wide Roman bridge, looking up and down the Guadalquivir River, spotting the usual water birds along the way: Cormorants, herons, mallards, an egret or two. Check out the old watch tower on the other side of the bridge for future climb. Look around briefly on the other side of the bridge, a newer commercial zone, and then return, appreciating nice view of old city from the bridge.



Walk around in the beautiful courtyard of the Mezquita, which is free to enter. More beautiful orange trees and one olive tree - the first we’ve seen close up bearing olives. Make plans to buy tickets and see the Mezquita itself tomorrow. Walked on in search of grocery store for a few items. Stumbled upon the ruins of Roman temple built in first and second centuries AD, discovered during the 1950s when city’s town hall was expanded. Such are the historic riches of Cordoba, that this site is barely a footnote in travel info on the city.



Return to hotel for rest and research. Decide to just walk a few hundred feet down our narrow little cobblestoned street for dinner at Bodega Mezquita Corregedora. There are several of these in the old Jewish quarter (la Judería) where we are staying. They all appear to be more or less the same. Small casual places with white tables and chairs. The place is deserted of course at 7 or so. End up having a nice chat with young couple at next table from Louisville. His mother, of course, was an alumna of - you guessed it- Indiana University, and his good friend is the swimming coach there. We order the usual 4 or 5 tapas, excellent sautéed veggies, meatballs with couscous, and a couple others already vanished from memory. Practice our Spanish on the muy amable server. As we finish she brings us each a glass of what she calls “cincuenta a cincuenta “ - that is, 50% sweet sherry topped with 50% dry sherry. We’re not big fans of sherry (but then again haven’t drunk much of it either), But mixing the dry with sweet makes it more appealing to us. We note that this restaurant (and perhaps many others here?) provides a menu in Chinese to one table. Good work on their part, as there are many groups of Chinese travelers in Córdoba.



Our hotel has nice little breakfast room with reasonably priced breakfast, so we just stumble down there all of our 3 mornings in Cordoba. We get a fairly early start, for us, and are across the street to buy tickets to the Mezquita by 10 or so for the next timed entry within 15 mins or so.



We are blown away by the Mezquita, an enormous mosque built in 784 and greatly expanded over the years of Muslim rule. When Córdoba returned to Christian rule in 1236 during the Reconquest, the building was converted to a Roman Catholic church, with a Renaissance cathedral nave inserted in the 16th century. Spend an hour or more wandering around inside appreciating both the Moorish and Christian elements. Just beautiful. Take lots of pix. Go back outside and climb the Mezquita tower, from which there are wonderful views of the Roman bridge over the river and the surrounding old town..



Spend most of the rest of the afternoon strolling through the gardens of the Alcazar de Los Reyes Cristianos (Palace of the Christian Monarchs) - once home to Ferdinand and Isabella. Nice enough in January, must be spectacular in spring/summer. Lots of Cala lilies (my favorite), pansies, and a few other cooler weather varieties in bloom. And we love all the manicured cypress trees, as well as pools, sculpture.



Back to the hotel for pre-dinner rest and restaurant research. I try to make contact with a tapas bar called “Nanita Bar”. It is the new casual venture of a chef with a Michelin star for his upscale restaurant “Noor” also in Córdoba. They never answer my email, and my SIM service denies me access to the restaurant’s “premium” number. One of these days I’ll figure out what that means. Nanita was recommended on chowhound board by Fodor’s ever helpful Spain expert Maribel. But she also recommended the more traditional Casa Pepe, within walking distance of our hotel and bookable on line.



Indeed Casa Pepe is charming and cozy inside with several small old rooms. We try a new dish that is traditional In Andalusia- mazamorra, a thick almost pudding like soup made with almonds, bread, garlic, oil, and salt. Delicious. Mr G orders pork with small potatoes, and I have sea bass with haricots verts. Mr G declares his the best pork ever. They serve it pretty rare, and it is really tender. British/NZ contempories at next table chat us up about travels, British and US politics. Server presents us check along with white plate with “Washington, DC” written in chocolate smear. Ah, so that’s why he asks each table where they are from. Very nice little restaurant. Thanks to Maribel!



Next day in a Cordoba it’s both warmer and sunnier. We ‘re in the 60s now. We consider going to the Medina Azahara, ruins of a palace city built in mid 10th century. But it will cost us maybe $40 or so for a taxi (8 km from city), or possibly less hooking up with tour. A bus from old city goes there, but we are already too late for that. Sorry to have missed that, but we make good use of the nice day with another really long walk. After hotel breakfast we start out again across Roman bridge. See a couple of Brits obviously bird watching from bridge and stop to see what they’ve seen - just the usual characters. We talk about Donana, a Spanish wetland we’ll visit later in the trip. They had already been there, so they gave us their take on locale and potential birds. A little more of the inevitable conversation about British and US politics. They admit to being in the group that voted in favor of Brexit, not thinking it would really happen (??!!!), and said their children are now furious with them.



We pay the admission to visit the small museum in bridge tower and climb the tower for beautiful views back across the bridge to the old city. The small museum’s exhibits and narrative tell about the golden age of Cordoba, when the three cultures of Al Andaluz - Islamic, Christian, and Jewish, peacefully coexisted and produced an intellectual and artistic environment unequaled elsewhere in medieval Europe.



Walking back across the bridge, we encounter another birdwatcher, this time a local, and spend some time talking about birds in Spanglish.



Stop by our hotel room to doff some layers of clothing and go on walking through quiet narrow lovely streets (thank you google maps) to the Palace de Viana, an old noble house dating back to 15th century, with 12 beautiful patios. We paid some extra euros to go inside the elaborately furnished rooms themselves, only available as a guided tour in Spanish at that hour. Though with our small English brochure, we probably got as much info as Spanish speakers did from the rather disinterested guide, “This is.....x. This is ....y, This is z. Now we must go on to the next room.”



We wander in and out of a few more old churches, entry to which was included in our Mezquita ticket. Also stop in to visit the small synagogue, built in 1315, and the only preserved synagogue remaining in Andalusia.



After a brief rest at hotel, we walk down toward the river and then in a different direction on the street that runs along side river, where there is another collection of restaurants. We are, of course, the first diners to arrive at restaurant Regadera, where we have a wonderful, quiet dinner. A quiet group of 5 phone-studying Japanese customers occupies table next to us, while a rowdy group of a dozen or so Russian men occupy a back table. We can watch the Spanish culinary school trained chef in the open kitchen. Mr. G has suckling pig and layered/scalloped like potatoes. I have tiny lamb meatballs with couscous . Both are wonderful. But the piece de resistance was what was billed as a special “orange pie,” recommended by our very efficient and helpful server. It turned out to be the most beautiful whole “Orange” resting on a bed of butter cookie crumbles. Inside the the very thin “rind” (perhaps made of orange white chocolate or some kind of butter cream?) was a layer of mildly orange flavored cream, and inside that, a bit of real orange. Delicious and beautiful. Server said chef uses a mold to create these, and then even creates texture of orange skin - in some way that my poor Spanish ear failed to comprehend. The next table ordered a lemon......



Take a few “Cordoba at night “ pix on way back to our hotel.. Loved this city, could have easily stayed a few more days, but we are off next am to Cádiz just for a single night.

<<A little more of the inevitable conversation about British and US politics. They admit to being in the group that voted in favor of Brexit, not thinking it would really happen (??!!!), and said their children are now furious with them. >>

Me too. not that I was stupid enough to vote for something that I thought wouldn't happen but that I'm furious with them and anyone else that was so asinine. Sorry not sorry to express this on the day after we left the EU .

You TR is however a great joy to read and I'm now kicking myself that I've never been to Cordoba. Fab descriptions of everything including the food which for me is one of the great things about going to Spain. Dare I say I prefer it to Italian food? Heresy i know.

Looking forward to reading more of you adventures.

glover,
I've been following along with relish, reading about your adventures.

I'm so sorry that you felt the wrath of storm Gloria in Valencia, as I remember that you were planning a bird watching trip there out to the Albufera. And sorry about the rain in Granada, but it was so wise of you to check online to be able to snag those afternoon tickets for the Alhambra's Generalife in nicer weather.

I'm so glad that you enjoyed your nights in Córdoba. Thanks for the note that Nanita Bar doesn't respond to email requests for reservations. We're headed there next month, and I've duly noted that I should call. But glad that Casa Pepe de la Judería made for a nice substitute and that you found La Regadera, which was recommended to us by the Azahar-Sevilla blog. We'll make sure to try their "orange pie".

So eager to hear all about your long stay in Sevilla! I'm envious!
Your report is a delight to read, and I wish you beautiful weather ahead in Cádiz and Sevilla!

Thank you for taking the time to write this trip report! I am enjoying all of the tips and taking notes. 😊

Cadiz. Mr. G added a night in Cadiz to our itinerary because “I just need to see a place that was founded by the Phoenicians in 1104 BC and is considered the oldest continuously occupied city in Western Europe.” So off we went to Cadiz by train from Cordoba.



No olive groves to see on this route, pretty flat, some rolling hills, planted probably with cover crops. Train was easy, relaxing, and on time , as has been case with most of our trains throughout our long trip so far.



The Cadiz train station faces a piece of old city wall that is very near our Hotel Boutique Convento . We just walk the 10 minutes or so over to the hotel. It was interesting to stay in a Dominican convent built in 1666 to say the least. The reception is through a grand stone archway, same as most grand buildings/churches of the time. We were checked in quickly, efficiently, and graciously and then sent on to our room across a wide open center courtyard and up to the second floor. Recorded Monk Chanting is played intermittently throughout the courtyard. The rooms are of course arranged around a big open courtyard (it’s a big building), off wide enclosed hallways. The hallways are painted oddly - sea blue with pinkish molding and doorways. Floors are wall to wall industrial carpeting. The hallways are sparsely furnished with an odd mix of period antiques and casual modern. We are amused to be staying in the “Mary Magdalene” room. The room is fairly spacious and very plain, with 2 single beds befitting monks or nuns, no headboards of any kind and no spreads or platforms to hide legs of bed. Bare floors. No soundproofing either, I can hear another of the Brothers snoring downstairs later. Super shower though, good location, and reasonable price.



It’s a beautiful clear, warm, sunny day in Cádiz, so we take off walking toward the Atlantic and walk quite a distance down the promenade along side the Atlantic ocean - all the way to the Castillo de Santa Catalina, a castle/fortress built in the 1600s to protect the city. Walk all around the fortress, taking in views back to the city, out to sea, and up and down the coast. Mr G, a Navy alum, uses binoculars provided there to check military ships, and realizes we are near the large navy base at Rota that he has read about. Southern Spain seems to us a plum military assignment! Several of the Castillo’s interior rooms have become exhibit space, and we spend some time enjoying the current photography exhibit of the birds of the province.



We walk back into the center of town, eventually ending up at the Cathedral. Built over 100 years between the early 17 and 1800s, it is a mix of baroque, rococo, and neoclassical styles. And it offers another great tower to climb (we never miss a tower). Most of the climb to the top of this tower is via ramp rather than stairs. Somewhat easier. Spectacular views from up there toward the sea and over the city. Wander through other parts of town, once again enjoying the narrow, winding streets and beautiful old plazas. There were big lines of mostly younger people waiting to buy (we thought) event tickets at the beautiful old theater, already adorned with a big “Carnival” banner. (Cadiz is one of the Spanish cities that celebrates Carnival in a BIG way.) Never did find out what the line was for, though.



Major food fail that eve. I feel so *ashamed.*. Each eve I struggle to find some middle ground between my own desire to eat best food in town, hopefully with a reservation, and by taxi if need be - and Mr G’s desire to walk down the street and eat at whatever place is open at the gringo dinner hour. You see the problem. Love the idea of going to bar at El Faro, which comes highly recommended by Maribel and others. But we haven’t yet been able to get past our need to actually sit down to eat and to do so at an hour earlier than 8:30 or 9. So I keep caving to what’s easier, with very mixed results! So, after I determine that El Faro bar will require a long walk or taxi, a late hour, and possible big crowd, we end up walking down street to a simple spot with some locals inside. Server is nice but food choice is very limited and not very good, So we just stay for a drink and one bad tapa. Then go back to a craft brew pub we’d passed earlier and have beers and split a cheeseburger. It’s actually a delicious cheeseburger though, served with excellent fries. But, really... We have some conversation with French Canadians at next table , who turn out to be high voltage electricians in town to work on a cruise ship in dry dock in the harbor.



Next day we sleep latish and go across courtyard to area where hotel serves its included breakfast. Have breakfast of the usual Spanish hotel buffet breakfast characters along with good coffee in another convent style room (few large paintings of monks and some homilies on the walls).



Sufficiently humbled, we check out of the convent and walk back over to train station for our train to Seville, where we will stay 3 weeks in an air bnb apt in Triana neighborhood. We are looking forward to hanging out in Seville and enjoying all it has to offer at a relaxed pace. And hopefully I’ll get better at foraging for Spain’s best food.

Thanks for your vivid description of Cadiz, a place i have yet to visit. Not sure that I'd stay at the convent should I go there though!

3 weeks in Seville? How lucky is that? What a great idea. We only stayed for 3 nights but liked it very much. looking forward to reading about your experiences, both good and bad.

Reading your report with much interest glover, so much so that I had to register and write this post. I was very lucky to spend 6 months in Europe together with my family last year. We were mostly based in the south of France and had the chance and pleasure to visit several other places. Seville was at the very top of our list when all was said and done, we spent 10 wonderful days there. I am looking forward to reading about your experience.

Just in case you want to hear about our favourite eating places: we absolutely loved Osteria L'Oca Giuliva (Italian), Bartolomea (mediterranean), El Rincon de Beirut (opposite the old tobacco factory), Ovejas Negras (Spanish, they have a Michelin plate, dinner opens at 8:30pm but tables fill quickly around 8pm). We also had several fantastic breakfasts and lunches at Filo (close to cathedral).

Another DCer (finally) signing on for more. Just got caught up - great report! Bummer about some of the weather issues, but you certainly made the best of it. Love Barcelona and Valencia - and Seville is high on my list so looking forward to hearing about it. How wonderful to have 3 weeks.

Havent been to Cadiz so interested in what you had to say. Looking forward to reading about your time in Sevilla. Hoping for sunny, warm days for you.

Thanks all, for following along! Hi Marnie DC, nice to think of you in sunny Uruguay! Thanks for the restaurant recs, Oilers - will check these out! Annhig - you should definitely return to Seville for more days!
welcome, Yankygal - always nice to meet other DCers here! Speaking of which, how are things going on the NZ trip, yestravel?

great weather here in Seville all of our first week - sunny, dry and high 60s to low 70s. We have a nearly new small apt one street over from the river and very near the bridge in Triana. It’s in a lovely old, old bldg with big center courtyard. We are on top so can enjoy sunny roof area. Have done lots of walking every day taking in beautiful Seville. Will do detailed report toward end of sojourn here.

Sign me up to join you on this journey.

Sounds just lovely. Glad you’re getting sunny and warm weather. I wouldn't mind going back to Sevilla for a long stay. As you know i loved Triana. Hope you keep the details for your apt.

NZ has been great though we’ve not seen a huge part of it yet. A couple nights in AKL and then a week with friends exploring the Northland. We are now in Wellington and love it. Ferry to SI tomorrow.

I look forward to hearing about your time in Sevilla. And esp your thoughts on a comparison between Alhambra and the Alcazar. I prefer the latter.

I’m glad I popped over to the Europe boards, and your TR. I like your style!

Now I’m wracking my brain trying to figure out who you were at the DC gtg!

Glover is tall with short, cute pixish hair and beautiful blue eyes. How do you like that description, glover?