Giverny or Rouen for 1st Night?
 

We are planning to spend 2 weeks in Brittany and Normandy the last 2 weeks of May. Our flight gets into CDG at 7 am. Ideally, we would like to rent a car and drive from CDG to Honfleur. However, I think that is probably not a safe idea given that we will be jet lagged.

I am considering spending the 1st night in either Giverny or Rouen. (We have never been to either.) Would Giverny be more relaxing than navigating a big city while exhausted, or are there such big crowds that Giverny would be exhausting? Is Giverny too small to spend the night there? Also, is Rouen interesting enough that it would be a shame to miss it? Thanks for your help!

Giverny is not a town in and of itself, really. The closest town is Vernon, which is a small place. In Vernon, you wouldn't be bothered by big crowds at Giverny because it's not the same place, though there would likely be tour buses and a lot of people getting on and off the trains at Vernon during opening hours of Giverny. Rouen is a big city. They are two very different venues. It's up to you whether you want a village or a city.

Rouen is not only full of fascinating history (Jeanne d'Arc, etc.), but it has some very good restaurants.

If you decide to stay in Vernon, here's a start on accommodation information: Giverny area hotel guesthouse giverny france

St. Cirq--thank you for your reply and the link to accommodations. I was not worried about the crowds in Vernon, just the ones visiting the house and gardens at Giverny. Is it mobbed?

I imagine that at the end of May it could be mobbed, yes. That's certainly a peak blooming season. If visiting, I would go early, before the tour buses arrive.

I would advise you to not attempt driving into Rouen while jet-lagged. It can be a bit of a maze (but is well-worth a visit). We did some thing similar to what you propose, but chose to stay in Les Andelys, specifically Petit Andely. It's an easy drive even jet-lagged, and has a few attractions of its own, chief among them Richard the Lionheart's great castle, Chateau Gaillard. It was a few years ago, but we stayed at La Chaine d'Or, which was quite nice at the time. Can't vouch for it now. ? La Chaîne d'Or - Hotel Les Andelys - Charming Hotel Normandy

St. Cirq--we would be there May 14 if that makes any difference.

Thanks Fra Diavolo, but if we drove, we would go straight to Honfleur. My husband will be the driver, and he never sleeps on the flight, so I am not sure it would be safe for him to drive the first day.

giverny the village is quiet away from the Money mania area - Vernon is hardly a small village but a bustling town but not a big city and rather blah. How about Auvers-sur-Oise - artists town of van Gogh and post-Impressionists - copes of their paintings put up around town where they painted them - a nice village not mobbed and lot closer to CDG - then next day hit Monet's mania is want and go onto Rouen for a look at cathedral and onto Honfleur.

Auvers-sur-Oise:

https://www.google.com/search?q=auve...ih=625&dpr=1.5

Thanks for the suggestion of Auvers. I will look into it. If we decide to go to Giverny, how much time would you spend at Monet’s house and gardens? I’m worried that if we sail through immigration, we will have too much time there. Right now (before looking at Auvers), I’m leaning towards Rouen.

Monet's Gardens are compact and with the mobs few will want to linger long but you have to reserve time slots or wait in long lines to get in. Auvers could occupy a half day if into walking between sites where paintings were done and the 'chateau' there has audio-visual shows on Monet and his time. But a small village with little amenities. I think you want to head straight to Rouen and have a city and cathedral, etc. but everyone here says not to drive after sleepless flight. You could get a shared van from airport to Rouen - save a day of car rental and pick up car there. Could take train to Rouen but that is rather cumbersome - having to go into Paris and change train stations, etc. Consider staying in Paris first night - plenty there to do and pick up car in Paris or take train to Rouen.

We took the train from Paris to Rouen a couple of years ago. Spent two nights there and picked up a car and drove on to Honfleur. It was easy and less stressful than driving with very little sleep.

This coming June, we're arriving at CDG and taking a taxi from CDG to St Germain en Laye & staying the night. Next morning, we'll rent a car & drive to our gite near Louviers (just a tad south of Rouen).



Stu Dudley

Whether train CDG to Rouen is easy or stressful may depend on the person and how you go about it. Pretty easy if take taxi CDG-Gare Saint-Lazare station for hour or so train ride to Rouen. But by public transit not so easy - First RER into Gare du Nord then a long walk to connect to different RER line to Saint-Lazare - a train that could always be crowded/ So take a cab to Saint-Lazare and train to Rouen is nice - avoids driving after all-night flight which is as dangerous as DUI many here say. Save a day or two car rental if stay in Rouen two days (but part of 1 should be enough for most) - could take train to Honfleur too first day.Just buy train tickets at station - at CDG for RER and train combo tickets.

Kudos for waiting to drive until you are rested!

I enjoyed Giverny, but wouldn't have wanted to stay there or in Vernon. I found much to enjoy in Rouen and consider it greatly underrated.

If it helps, I spent about 3 hours at Monet's Gardens (including his house); I would describe my pace as leisurely. I also visited the Musée des impressionism's Giverny and its gardens (about an hour an a half) and another half hour for a coffee break at the museum.

Thank you all for your help. We have decided to take the train to Rouen for our first night. We always take the RER into Paris, but when we there a few weeks ago, the line was being repaired, so we had to take a taxi for the first time. I was surprised that the cab took as long as the train, even on a weekend. However, given PalenQ’s description of what it will take to get to Saint Lazare, I am rethinking the RER.

Kja—I read a post of yours recently which made me reconsider driving the first day, so thank you for that.

@ Digbydog: :tu: Thank you very much for letting me know that my comments helped you make a wise decision. Normandy and Brittany are lovely places -- enjoy!

Good decision! We loved Rouen -- nice city with much to see. When you pick up your car, be sure to check on its location. We ended up returning a car in Rouen quite a ways away from the city center.

RER is fairly straight forward - changing from one line but in a busy sometimes hectic Gare du Nord suburban rail section - and a fairly long walk to get to RER to Saint-Lazare - taxi should be quicker I'd think except at rush hours.

I see you have decided to go to Rouen, but in case anyone else reading this thread is thinking of staying in Giverny, I just had a wonderful stay for two nights at a bed & breakfast there, Les Arceaux.

https://www.giverny.fr/en/tourism/ac...t-les-arceaux/

Yes travel—thanks for the heads up on rental car location. I was thinking of picking up a car at the train station. Is Rouen difficult to get out of?

PalenQ—We have always taken the RER from CDG into/out of Paris. On our most recent visit, the RER was closed for repairs, so we had to take a cab. Even though it was Saturday afternoon, the taxi took just as long (or maybe even longer) as the RER. However, given the changes to get to Saint-Lazare I am thinking that with luggage a cab may just be easier for this visit.

Nikki—I will file the b&b for next time. Thank you!

I find that comment odd, most people would expect the RER to take less time than a taxi, not more.

Rouen isn't a small village. I haven't drive in it but think some people do have problems in the center around the main gare. You could easily rent a car in an easier loction, there are several companies just a bit south of the N338 (Sixt, Hertz, Avis) where it should be easy to get right on the N338, which I presume is what you are taking if wanting to go west.

We did not have trouble driving into or out of Rouen which is a city I agree with that. We set google maps on our iPhone to the destination and it took us to our hotel with no trouble. Some of the roads were narrow as they usually are in these old towns. We drove to Giverny from Rouen and again it was easy. We dropped our car off on the way back from Giverny to Rouen. We booked through Auto Europe with a Hertz rental and for some reason ended with a drop off about 15 minutes outside of the historic area on the main rd. Perhaps the one to which Christina was referring. We had to have a taxi take us on this highway into Rouen. As I recall the train station is a bit outside the historic district and the roads are 2 lane. So if you are comfortable driving in European towns, you'll be fine. Actually, sometimes the towns are easier than the small villages to drive in.
While in Rouen check to see if they do the light show on the cathedral. Not sure when they start it each year, but its definitely worth seeing if its on.

You can buy tickets Paris to Rouen at station - very little savings if any by buying in advance - regional trains do not take seat reservations I believe and as train starts in Paris you will find ample empty seats as long as it is not rush hour - first class may be worth the extra money for folks with bags. For lots on French trains check www.sncf.oui - probably can buy ticket for Rouen online and use any regional train that day with it - www.www.seat61.com; www.ricksteves.com and BETS-European Rail Experts.

You could turn the car in at Rennes train station and take bullet train back to Paris - in that case book tickets early as on fast trains you can score neat discounted fares if far enough in advance to get them. Or drive over to Loire Valley for a few days and turn car in at Tours' St-Pierre-des-Corps station and blast via TGV train back to Paris.

To echo the other posters, I loved Rouen, it is absolutely interesting and not worth missing! Rouen has the history of being where Joan of Arc was burned at the stake and is a delightful, charming city. Giverny (and Vernon) is a village IMO and noted for Monet's house. I personally don't know of anyone that has stayed in Giverny but rather go through as a stop enroute to Normandy or make it day-trip from Paris. We took the train from Paris into Rouen. I'm glad you have decided to go there, you will enjoy yourselves!

I didn't have trouble with parking in Rouen either (I drove in and out), but then, I had a good GPS system. :)

Thanks all for more information! We will be armed with a GPS and Michelin maps (my son is an employee)��. We are fine driving in European cities as long as we don’t get caught on tiny narrow streets, so good to know the Rouen station is outside the historic area.

Unfortunately, the light show doesn’t begin until June. However, I imagine we would have missed it anyway. We will undoubtedly be fast asleep given it will be our first night after our flight from the US.

I havent planned out out the end of our trip yet, but we will probably take the TGV from Nantes or Vannes back to Paris. I will definitely book tickets in advance to get the low fare. PalenQ— why is 1st class better with luggage?

Christina—I don’t think my statement is odd. I was factoring in that a taxi takes you directly to your hotel while there is some additional travel time with the RER depending on where your hotel is located.

Agree with kja, I didn't find driving into or out of Rouen difficult. I, too, had my GPS. My hotel was on a pedestrian street but you could ring a bell by the barrier and it would be lowered for you to drive to the hotel to drop and pickup your luggage. Parking was a block or two away.

The transfer at Gare du Nord to the RER E Magenta station was about a four minute walk for us. It was a quick ride over to Lazare, and about 4 more minutes walk into the main Gare for the Rouen Train. I can recommend the Mercure Rouen Centre Cathedral Hotel. We stayed there in 2016 and loved it. When renting the car, I would agree that picking up the car at one of the stations south of the river would be more convenient to getting on the 338.

1st class can be better with luggage IME because seats are bigger - fewer people fending for storage space in overhead luggage racks and fewer seats in same-size train car and often more empty seats where you can sit with your luggage - if train is not crowded not much advantage but if is first class often has more empty seats - marginally more comfy.

All I can say is my marriage nearly ended driving into Rouen. ( That was before common gps, when we used to download directions from Mapquest). It failed to note that a major road changed to oneway, seasonally.

I think even google maps has it fair share of errors. I can imagine a seasonal road change would be one of them.