Giro d'Italia - very late report!
 

2004 has been a wild year, and I have been a bad Fodorite. While I have taken a peek at the site from time-to-time, I don't think I've posted in months. Life has now settled down to a reasonable pace, and I look forward to re-joining the group!

We spent 12 days in May following the Giro d'Italia through northern Italy, followed by three days in Paris. Following is a brief trip report with apologies in advance for any typos. I've created this in Word, and I know that the cut and paste will result in some crazy stuff.

Mr. Kir and I have been to Italy in the past, but mainly to big cities like Venice, Milan and Florence. We started our trip in Milan and then went to Trieste to catch up with the race. We followed the Tour de France through all the mountain stages last year, and it was a blast. The Giro is very different in that it is not quite as commercial as the Tour. It is much more accessible because you can walk right up to the Team buses and chat with the riders. Crowds are much smaller as well. The race took us to some wonderful places that we would likely never have seen because we didn't know they existed. Small places like Vandoies and Forno Allione, where there were only 1 or 2 small restaurants, and there was no menu. You were served whatever it was they cooked that day and it was always wonderful.

The Dolomites were a great surprise, and our hotel in Ponte di Legno had fabulous views across a small stream to snow covered mountain tops, and even an old castle just past the stream.

Other highlights were Trento, Treviso, and Lake Como. For cycling fans like us, a visit to the Pinarello bike factory was a real treat, as well as a visit to the chapel of the Madonna del Ghisallo - the patron saint of cyclists. Food throughout was incredible, as was the wine. Everyone was so welcoming and friendly and 12 days went much too quickly.

Three days in Paris was way too short for two hopeless Francophiles, but it was just enough time to stock up on soap and spices from Monoprix, tassels from Bouchara, and fabric from BHV. Dinners at Le Maupertu and Bistro de Breteuil were delicious as always.

That?s it in a nutshell. Looking forward to getting back into the Fodorite Fold!

I just sent this off to a friend who's a great cycling fan and has been wanting to follow one of the tours. Thanks!

were you part of an organized tour or did you do it on your own?

Did you stay at start/finish towns or towns along the route/off the route?

Hi bigtyke,

We were with an organized group - but one that gave you a lot of freedom. Sometimes our hotel was in the start or finish town. Other times we were several days in one hotel that would be about an hour's trip for several days stages. The tour provided our hotel, breakfast & dinner and bus transport to and from race sites. Most days, we'd go to a small town and spend the day exploring, shopping, eating, maybe some hiking, and then return to the town center to watch the race come through at some point. On the time trial days, where the start and finish were in the same place, we could watch several racers start, then some back later to see some finishes (with lots of time for Pinot Grigio in between!). We'd catch the bus late afternoon and head back to the hotel. For those who had brough their bikes, you could take the bus one way to the town and then bike back or vice-versa. There were also longer rides (50K or 80K) for the real serious riders and we had two ex-Tour de France riders as guides. Great fun!

Kir Royale

Forgot to mention this yesterday: We were having dinner one night in Paris at La Flor en L'Ile on the Ile St. Louis, and in walked French actor Daniel Auteuil. As fans of his movies we were thrilled, but maintained ourselves and allowed him to dine in peace!