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-   -   Getting to Herculaneum (https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/getting-to-herculaneum-924556/)

i_am_kane Feb 19th, 2012 12:12 PM

Getting to Herculaneum
 
This is the information I copied and pasted from a link on Fodors. Are there any additional details I should be aware of?

Herculaneum Getting Here:

Take a train on the Circumvesuviana to Ercolano. From the station, walk across at the nearest roundabout and head down Via 4 Novembre for 10 minutes. If driving from Naples, take the Ercolano exit from the Napoli-Salerno autostrada. Follow signs for Scavi di Ercolano.

IMO this is poorly written, especially "take a train on the Circumvesuviana."

Anyway, sometimes it's all in the details. I'd appreciate any info people would care to share with me.

ellenem Feb 19th, 2012 12:40 PM

There are a few different Circumvusviana train lines that stop at Erculano Scavi, the top closest to the excavations.

You can plot the route on maps.google.com. Starting point would be the Erculano Scavi station at Via Vittorio Veneto. Ending point would be Scavi di Erculano at Corso Resina 187. As described in your posting, pretty much a straight 10-minute walk from the station to the excavations along Via 4 Novembre.

i_am_kane Feb 19th, 2012 01:16 PM

ellenem,

First, thank you for responding. Second, I tried to follow your instructions on google maps, and selected the pedestrian icon, but ended up with convoluted directions. Obviously, I did something wrong.

kybourbon Feb 19th, 2012 01:24 PM

Are you departing from Naples? If so, downstairs in the Naples station is the Circumvesuviana train lines. You take the train to the Ecrolano Scavi stop (16 minutes from Naples - 2.10€). Trains run every 30 minutes.

As you exit the station, head downhill. I would be surprised if it took you 10 minutes to walk. Here's a picture of the street. Then entrance is at the bottom of the hill.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/tompowell/3208824944/

kybourbon Feb 19th, 2012 01:38 PM

A Brit in Ischia has a series of picture directions.
http://www.pbase.com/isolaverde/image/123061482

i_am_kane Feb 19th, 2012 01:58 PM

kybourbon,

I'll follow-up with your instructions. No Naples, we will be traveling from Sorrento to Ercolano Scavi. Thanks.

i_am_kane Feb 19th, 2012 02:09 PM

Great links...a picture's worth a thousand words. More than likely, we will visit in the morning. Are there any recommended (small) restaurants in the City of Ercolano for lunch? Otherwise, we will try to catch a train back to Sorrento for lunch.

kybourbon Feb 19th, 2012 02:17 PM

The last time I was at Herculaneum (two years ago), the entrance was taking cash only and they were out of audio guides in English.

NanBug Feb 19th, 2012 02:53 PM

You'll find plenty of lunch places on the street that Kybourbon posted the picture of... we ate at a little deli that had a hot table of food presented in the window and it was delicious.

You'll love Herculaneum, we ended up taking a guided tour (found the guide at the entrance gate -- his name was Hector -- an older professorial, scholarly guy, fluent in a half dozen languages. He gave us a fabulous tour.) So, if you see an older gent and feel like taking a tour, grab him, you won't be sorry.

greg Feb 19th, 2012 03:19 PM

There is only one main road going down from the Ercolano station. That road goes straight into Ercolano. If you have good vision, you should see the Ercolano entrance. One of the least confusing path tourists need to take in Italy.

I think the road starts from the station is called Via Vittoria Veneto which quickly turns into Via 4 Novembre. But that road has "Scavi di Ercolano" white on brown background signs all over.

<b>Circumvesuviana</b>

<b>Sorrento to Ercolano</b> All the trains leaving Sorrento stop at Ercolano. There is no possibility of mistake.

<b>Ercolano to Sorrento</b> <u>WATCH OUT</u>. There are at least two different trains heading east. Look at the map. They split at Torre Annunziata:

http://www.danpiz.net/napoli/traspor...mvesuviana.htm

You want the one going to "SORRENTO." Double check what the front of the train says so before getting on.

You do NOT want the one that goes anywhere else such as "SARNO." If you get on a wrong train, get off at Torre Annunziata to get back onto the correct train. There was no English announcements at Torre Annunziata, but the digital display tells you which platform Sorrento bound trains stop.

i_am_kane Feb 19th, 2012 03:42 PM

greg,

Thank you so much for your explicit directions. This will be our fourth trip to Sorrento. Three previous trips were on the Circumvesuviana train - the only coming up in April will be a hired driver from the Naples Airport (BIG difference).

kybourbon, Cash only - no problem.

NanBug, my gut feeling was that there had to be good food in Ercolano. Thanks for confirming.

i_am_kane Feb 19th, 2012 06:30 PM

greg, I reread your instructions. Boarding at Ercolano Scavi is totally different from boarding at Naples Central Station.

I get it now...we must be vigilant before we board and read the front of the approaching train for our return ride back to Sorrento.

kybourbon Feb 19th, 2012 06:51 PM

>>>Boarding at Ercolano Scavi is totally different from boarding at Naples Central Station.<<<

No, you must make sure you get the right train when leaving Naples also as there are several different Circumvesuviana train lines. Here's a map of the lines.
http://www.danpiz.net/napoli/traspor...mvesuviana.htm

i_am_kane Feb 19th, 2012 06:59 PM

kybourbon, I must be making everyone crazy. As I said previously, we are departing from Sorrento to Ercolano Scavi. My point was that the large train stations have so much information for the traveler. The small, and sometimes tiny train stations offer little guidance for the traveler.

kybourbon Feb 19th, 2012 08:33 PM

No, you aren't making anyone crazy. I understand you are going from Sorrento to Ercolano. I assumed for you to get to Sorrento originally you would be coming from Naples. Many people going to Sorrento get on the wrong train in Naples as they don't realize there are other Circumvesuviana trains going to other destinations. The Circumvesuviana station in Naples is below the Trenitalia station and doesn't have a lot of information. It's really just a couple of tracks underground and you have to stand around waiting. There are lots of services upstairs for Trenitalia, but not downstairs for Circumvesuviana.

When departing Sorrento, if you aren't using the Campania Arte Card, buy your return ticket also. I've experienced ticket machines not working before in Ercolano and had to track down a store to buy tickets. If you are using the Campania Arte Card, you must tell the ticket window so they can buzz you in. Our passes would not feed through in Sorrento.

A_Brit_In_Ischia Feb 20th, 2012 12:17 AM

Citizen K..... once you get off at Ercolano Scavi, it's as simple as walking downhill - from one of the green crosses marked on this to the other....

http://www.pbase.com/isolaverde/image/132790506

ANM's 157 bus (on which you could also use your UnicoCampania ticket, or the Artecard's travel pass) would save you the schlep back up, however we've found that it isn't particularly frequent - and you might well like to have a look in at the MAV museum along the way?

See the notes below that GoogleMap image for details!

Perhaps this will remove any linger doubts about the different CV lines...

http://www.pbase.com/isolaverde/imag...87094/original

... but do be sure to use the right station in Ercolano....

http://www.pbase.com/isolaverde/image/133832737

Not sure how recently some have actually used the station in Naples, but the platform indicators installed there early in 2010 should be simple enough for most people to understand...

http://www.pbase.com/isolaverde/image/130148215

... despite a bafflingly wide choice of tracks...

http://www.pbase.com/isolaverde/image/131658260

Peter

i_am_kane Feb 20th, 2012 07:32 AM

Thankfully, I don't look like Citizen Kane (Orson Wells) since I'm a female!

All of the above is good information, not only for me, but helpful info for other posters visiting Ercolano Scavi. I am (as always) the navigator for trips. Too bad I have a reputation for "doing a good job" because no one else want to do it. I love the planning.

NanBug Feb 20th, 2012 11:13 AM

Forgot to suggest, if you have time (an extra 2 hours), definitely visit Oplontis, which is a quick train ride from Herculaneum. It was one of the highlights of our trip: http://oplontisproject.org/

i_am_kane Feb 20th, 2012 01:12 PM

NanBug, I will definitely speak to my husband and the the other couple traveling with us about Oplontis. Many thanks for your suggestion.

A_Brit_In_Ischia Feb 21st, 2012 02:56 AM

Both Oplontis, and Boscoreale - also near Pompei but very probably better visited by either car or taxi - are well worth a look if you've time...

http://www.pbase.com/isolaverde/popea

http://www.pbase.com/isolaverde/boscoreale

If going to several, save money with a ticket that gives, "access to 5 sites: Herculaneum, Pompeii, Oplontis, Stabiae, Boscoreale) - valid for 3 days" for €20....

http://www.pompeiisites.org/Sezione....ezioneRif=1165

Although you may find that one version or another of the Campania Artecard suits your needs better... if not already aware of those, perhaps try this one - whose €27 price includes two prepaid entrances and a 3 day transport card:

http://www.campaniartecard.it/itinerary.cfm?id=13

Shout if you need help with finding where those are sold!

Peter

i_am_kane Feb 21st, 2012 10:29 AM

Right now the jury's out on visiting another archeological site.

Peter, I've been reading about the Campania Artecard vs the Unico Costiera card. I'm assuming the card of choice is the one that more closely fits a traveler's itinerary.

Since both couples have visited this area many times (each) previously, the trip will be more of a slow travel week than a fast-paced "event."

Eight days: One full day will be devoted to visiting an ancestoral town in Avellino using a hired driver. One full day will be visiting the Amalfi Coast at a much slower pace than previous visits using a driver. Half a day +, will be spent at a cooking school, another 1/2 day will be spent on Capri (lunch).

Most other times, we want to stay in town, visit a few museums, have a leisurely lunch at the Foreigner's Club and enjoy the spectacular view. And, for the very first time, actually SIT, have something to drink, and watch the world go by.

kybourbon Feb 21st, 2012 10:43 AM

It doesn't sound like either card will be beneficial for you. You might just want a day pass for the buses (7€) if you have a day where you will be traveling by public transport enough.

i_am_kane Feb 21st, 2012 12:24 PM

Good enough.

ParadiseLost Feb 21st, 2012 04:54 PM

My post is 7yrs old with a dead link but below the XXXXXXXXXX is a good link and other info.
So if you're interested it's only ~200m from a Circumvesuviana that you will be passing coming & going from Sorrento to Herculaneum. Regards, Walter


OPLONTIS-VILLA POPPEA: Is a beautiful and intact Roman Villa Between Pompeii & Herculaneum.
If you buy the combo 'Pompeii and Ercolano/Herculaneum' ticket for 18e this site is also included (along with Boscoreale and Stabia).

This large intact suburban villa shouldn't be missed if you have time, it's only ~200m from the 'TORRE ANNUNZIATA' Circumvesuviana Station (brown signs on the platform will also say 'OPLONTI VILLA DI POPPEA') and very easy to find. It can be seen in an hour if you're in a rush.

It's the Circumvesuviana Station just before Pompeii Scavi if you're coming from Naples or just after if coming from Sorrento.
It's on the Naples-Sorrento Line (Herculaneum/Ercolano & Pompeii) and also the 'Naples-Sarno via Poggiomarino' Line (which goes to Herculaneum/Ercolano but not Pompeii).

The wall paintings are fantastic as is the general overall site.


Exit the Torre Annunziata Circumvesuvana Station and turn Left (the only choice is either left or right).
In ~70m the street ends in a "T", turn Right, in 40m cross the intersection and in ~90m the site and entrance will be on the Left (can't miss it).
Between that intersection and the site also on the left will be a Tourist Info Office (a blue sign/banner outside will say 'Oplonti.....something', again can't miss it, the man that runs this is very nice & helpful) you might want to pick-up a guidebook there as there are none at the site nor audioguides.

The guidebook will say 'OPLONTIS The Villa Poppea' which can also be bought at other sites (Pompeii, Herculaneum, tourist shops, 5.20e).


It's *believed* that this villa belonged to the glamorous Poppea who was Nero's mistress who later became his 2nd wife.

In 65AD he kicked the pregnant Poppea in the stomach and she died. By this point Nero had aleady killed his mother and 1st wife!

I've read that Poppea might have had a role (Nero's ear) in their deaths also.


There are 2 clues to this being Poppea's Villa. 1st an amphora was found in the villa's latrine with the inscription 'Secundo Poppaeae' meaning 'To Second (slave or freedman) of Poppea'.

Also this villa like Pompeii, Herculaneum and surrounding area was badly damaged in the 62AD earthquake and was being repaired.
But for some reason work had stopped and was unfinished before the 79AD eruption.
No one was living or working in the house when Vesuvius erupted.

Was the restoration halted after Poppea was murdered in 65AD?
Nero only had 4 yrs left in his reign and was consumed in building his Domus Aurea (Golden House) in Rome.

After Nero's suicide there was a brief civil war and then Vespasian became Emperor thus ending the 'Julio-Claudian' Line, so the villa if Nero's property was probably confiscated?
There has to be a logical reason restoration work stopped and this beautiful piece of real estate was abandoned for years?

Besides the beautiful wall paintings, atriums, fountains, huge outdoor swimming pool etc.
There is one small area that is rather unique. Go to http://LINK IS DEAD-NEW LINK IN POST BELOW THE XXXXXXX at the bottom of the page click-on 'home plan, and notes', then click-on the villa's floor plan.

See above the "8" and across the corridor in a room there is what looks like an upside-down U or |_|.
That room is the w.c./toilet, see the short hallway going to the right then to another short hallway going up & down.
The bottom of that hallway exits into that long left-right hallway between the number 5 and 8 and the top of that short up/down hall exits outside even though it looks like it is still inside the villa.
That is where you might want to visit. Your visit will start in the upper left corner entrance and you will work your way thru the villa.

When you get to the *large* outdoor swimming pool #7 on the rightside of the plan, you will see that long left/right hallway with stone benchs along the wall.
Walk down it and just before it ends and after the benches there will be a couple of steps on the right that enters that short up/down hallway mentioned above.

Go into it and turn left and visit the w.c. The stone basin on the right is where the 'sponges on a stick' were kept in water.
And if you didn't know, Roman toilets had a bench seat with a hole cutout in it where they sat but also a U-shaped cutout in the front connected to the hole they sat on. The sponge-stick was their toilet paper and inserted in the front, they were rinsed/cleaned in a small water channel at their feet.
This water channel was feed with water from the overflow of the stone sponge-stick basin.
In public w.c.'s the sponge-sticks were kept in a basin of brine (salt & water).

The seats are gone, probably wooden, in the public w.c. they would be marble usually.
But what is really unique is a men's urinal in this w.c. behind a wall.
This is something I have never seen or heard of before.
Plus it must be further proof that this villa was owned and commanded over by a woman:).�

Ok go back out to the short up/down hall and turn left.
On the left wall is an inscription covered in plexiglass.
This graffiti is in Greek written by Beryllos who was probably a slave and hoped not to be forgotten.
It reads "Mnesthei Beryllos" translated "Be Beryllos remembered".

The villa was empty though but perhaps he was fleeing and sought refuge in the villa. And that would be the safest place in the villa, narrow hall with small rooms nearby all with strong walls=strong roof.
Roofs collapsed in Pompeii due to the weight of the pumice stones and ash killing many people.

Also he would have been only a couple of meters from the open doorway to the outside if the ceiling started to go.
And able to watch the Hell their Gods had unleashed upon them.

No bodies were found at the villa so perhaps he (and his group?, master, mistress, family?) decided to take their chances in trying to flee again.
Who knows, maybe he made it! (MY GUESS BELOW IS MORE PROBABLE)

XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
www.indiana.edu/~leach/c409/oplan.html *OR* http://tinyurl.com/3d84lh

The ticket office/entrance is in the upper left corner outside the map so not shown.
The large swimming pool is to the right of the map and also not shown.

For the 'Beryllos Graffiti';
46 is the long hallway/corridor you would walk down until you come to the 2 steps (shown on map) leading into the short hallway marked 52.
The 'Beryllos Graffiti' is on the left in that 52 hallway behind plexiglass.
47 is the men's urinal and 48 is the latrine.

Also I have another more likely guess on who Beryllos might have been.
From his graffiti they know that he was a slave and Greek, I'm certain they base this fact on his name? Greeks were highly prized as slaves esp for the rich and for the Emperor's staff.
There is even an Imperial Slave School on the southern slope of the Palatine Hill where other Greek graffiti was found.
Many of these Greek slaves are placed in important positions and would be able to speak, read and write in Latin and Greek.

Now *IF* this was Villa Nero's wife's it would be Imperial property I assume and after Nero's suicide still Imperial property. Even if it was his or her's private property it would have been very likely confiscated. �

Although it is unoccupied and still needing repairs it would be very wise to have someone guarding and overseeing it for theft, vandalism, weather damage, etc. even if this was some other rich person's private villa.

Having a slave guard a house is very common, the rich would have a slave guarding the front door (often chained to it) of their home at night while they slept.

Also after Nero's death there was a brief Civil War (~18months) and then Vespasian (and later his son Titus) came to power.

The Vespasians were deconstructing what the unpopular Nero built in Rome and giving it back to the people, like building the Colosseum over Nero's Domus Aurea's lake.
So perhaps not repairing this villa would have been a good move PR-wise for the Vespasians or maybe they just had no interest in this villa.

Bottomline:
The villa is damaged in the 62AD earthquake and afterwards it is being repaired.

The repairs stop at some point.
Could Poppea's murder in 65AD which Nero deeply regretted and grieved about have been a cause for the repairs stopping?

And afterwards with the Civil War and the Vespasians in power 17yrs later the villa is still not repaired or occupied?

In 79AD the unrepaired unoccupied villa is buried by Vesuvius' eruption.

In modern times the Villa is excavated and this graffiti is found.

I have worked construction over the years and what struck me was this hallway would be where I would be in the event of an eruption with fallout and multiple earthquakes happening.

IMO it is the safest structural location in the Villa. Plus an outside doorway to escape thru in the event of collapse which also overlooks Mt. Vesuvius.

i_am_kane Feb 21st, 2012 06:12 PM

OMG Walter...this is a lot of information! Too late tonight to digest it. I'll read it more carefully in the morning.

Thank you.


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