Europe Forums

Post New Topic

Recent Activity

  • Announcements:
  • Come explore the new Fodor’s Forum
    by ibobi Fodor's Editor | Posted on Dec 4, 17 at 08:03 PM
  • New Fodor’s forum -- coming soon!
    by ibobi Fodor's Editor | Posted on Nov 29, 17 at 08:01 PM
View all Europe activity »
  1. 1 Barcelona to Malaga
  2. 2 St, Goar or Bacharach
  3. 3 Ireland, public trans and my bicycle.
  4. 4 Where to Visit in Normandy & Brittany
  5. 5 First time in Spain
  6. 6 Italy 9 Days in December/Itinerary Help
  7. 7 Paris Apartment
  8. 8 Visit to France
  9. 9 two days in Nice
  10. 10 Milan airport--which one
  11. 11 New fast track
  12. 12 Packing Champagne
  13. 13 Trip Report Three nights in the Italian Riviera: hiking in Camogli with day trips
  14. 14 Can only visit one (maybe two) cities. Which one?
  15. 15 Itinerary Help, Please!!!
  16. 16 Trip Report Once upon a time in Italy
  17. 17 Best area to stay in Amsterdam for a first time visitor
  18. 18 Private Driver in Malaga Spain
  19. 19 Christmas in Granada....food!
  20. 20 1st time to Europe
  21. 21 london or amsterdam
  22. 22 Arthritis treatment (Lisbon)
  23. 23 1 night in Algarve in January?
  24. 24 Trip Report September in Venice, Croatia, and Slovenia
  25. 25 14 days in Portugal with teens and Grandma
View next 25 » Back to the top

Trip Report Gertie in Eastern Europe

Jump to last reply

Well, here we are as threatened. I'll start this and see how I go. If you suddenly stop hearing anything it's because I've got tired of the sound of my own voice, found something more interesting to do or gone over the edge.

Easyjet was easy; easier than getting to STN on a Sunday morning. I got myself ensconced in a little apartment in the Old Town steps away from all the action, in a medieval cobbled courtyard full of arty-farty workshops and craft shops. So far so good. Found a supermarket for essentials like tea and red wine, smelly blue cheese and fresh bread. A good start.

But it's COLD, around 10C, not like 30C when I left TX or even 15C in London. (Some Aussies I got tangled up with on the airport bus said they had had 2C in Bath with sideways sleet last week). None of that here: bright and sunny and clear Baltic light, eggshell blue sky, pastel coloured houses, a very pretty city. By 2pm I decided it was warm enough to risk having lunch outside in the sun, but most tourists seem to have been eating and drinking al fresco all day....

Have spent the day tramping around with my trusty Lonely Planet, climbing on bits of the city wall, admiring the bright green trees and early spring flowers, goggling at the Baltic to the north and avoiding large groups of day-trippers from the cruise ships. But Monday the museums are closed: this I found out when some cruisers stopped me and asked why the museums were closed. I must look like a local....? Plenty of churches open though and towers to climb for views. And an organ recital to listen to this evening in a wood-panelled Lutheran church built originally around 1350.

I think there is a lot more to this city, but much of it is Soviet era construction which I can pass on. I gather the Old Town has been tarted up only since 1990. Some of the old pictures are grey and miserable. But they have done a great job in the past 22 years and it's well worth seeing. People have been wonderful, a bus driver even stopped his bus and got out with me to show me the way. Can you imagine that in London? And they all speak English! There is a lot of Russian around though, not only in the architecture and the Orthodox churches, but also in the signs and voices in the street. Outside the Old Town it's all straight wide avenues going on forever like St P along the coast. And of course the old KGB headquarters makes you realise how under the thumb they were.

TBC....

63 Replies |Back to top

Sign in to comment.

Advertisement