Monday Morning: A Trip to Saint Denis

It was a cold grey morning.

I took the bus, just up the road, to Montparnasse station, and was there in 15 minutes, then a 40 minute trip, on M13, to Basilique De St-Denis; Be careful about the destination, as the line splits at some point, so get on the right train – you want the one whose final destination is Saint-Denis-Université

I had read that the area around Saint Denis Cathedral was not great – and yes, it is a rather skanky area. From a London perspective, its like visiting London, wanting to visit Westminster Cathedral, and arriving at Lewisham, only worse. I suggest you don’t plan to have lunch there. Its not violent or anything, its just bloody ugly and depressing.

Here is some information on Basilique De St-Denis to help with our planning:
http://www.saint-denis-basilique.fr/
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Basilica_of_St_Denis

Here are my pictures from the trip to Basilique De St-Denis:
pix.sfly.com/X_8V47_j

This was one of the ‘new things’ on my list. I had wanted to see it for many years, and never managed to make it there.

My first sight of the Basilica: I was shocked, as the facade was not what I had expected at all. Every picture I had seen of it in the past portrayed a black and ominous edifice that conveyed a message of hell and eternal damnation. Not at all: The edifice was a gleaming white vision of delicate loveliness, offering the hope of eternal salvation. Please forgive me, having been bought up a Catholic, I still have these images imprinted on my soul.

They started cleaning the muck of centuries off the building in 2012, and it is now restored it to its original pristine white stone. It looks amazing, and completely out of context with is dismal surroundings

A church had existed there from the 7th century but, in the early 12th century, it was rebuilt.

Think of it. Saint Denis Basilica heralded Europe’s shift from the Romanesque to the Gothic. It is built on a plain, and its radiant white stone would have been visible for miles around - a beacon of light for weary medieval pilgrims, on their way from Canterbury to Santiago de Compestella, and a promise of salvation. Its architecture was innovative and unique, and appeared to defy the laws of gravity (although, clearly, the Law of Gravity had yet to be discovered). How astonished the pilgrims must have been to enter this church and see the massive pillars, the vaulted ceilings and the extraordinary stained glass windows.

In the 21st century, I was captivated and enthralled at its elegance and beauty: how much more shocking must this have been to someone viewing for the first time in the 12th Century?

All that verbiage, I have not even entered the church!

Entrance to the Basilica is free, though the main door to the right. Entrance to “Discover the last resting place of the Kings of France and its unique collection of 70 sculpted tombs” costs you 8 Euros, audio guide extra, and entrance is on the right side of the Basilica. I bought the audio guide – I am not sure it is necessary, as all exhibits are well described.

The funereal statuary are very worth seeing, and some are very accomplished. I am rather fond of statuary from the medieval period, and this is the ‘Who’s-Who’ of the most important dead ancestors in Europe royalty.

Of course, I had to see the rather kitsch statues of Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette. Very sad, is the memorial to their son, containing his heart – the poor little boy did no harm to anyone.

Then, I explored the church. It is the Gothic architecture and stained glass windows that are worth coming to see. Excuse my following ramblings, but this IS how I felt when I was there.

For the time, this building was innovative and technologically challenging, as it have never been done before on this scale – it was similar to building a rocket to the moon in the 1960s. It was creating ‘heaven on earth’, telling the story of Christianity to the great mass of illiterate worshippers, in a visual narrative.
It was a labour of love and devotion, created by unknown artists and artisans, worshiping their God, honouring their craft and stretching their talents beyond anything that had been done before.

It is a temple to a well-loved God, but also a temple to the astonishing talents of man, and his compulsion to create extraordinary art.

A word of warning. It was cold outside, but much bloody colder inside – dress warm.

Back in Paris, I had lunch close to the Musée de Cluny.

Next: Musée de Cluny: A continuation of my Medieval journey

Monday Afternoon: Musée de Cluny: A continuation of my medieval journey

Musée de Cluny, I had visited a couple of times before, but not recently. I remembered it with affection, and wanted to visit again on this trip.

Here is some information on Musée de Cluny to help with your planning:
http://www.musee-moyenage.fr/
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mus%C3...Moyen_%C3%82ge


Here are my pictures from the visit:
pix.sfly.com/f3z6MCJz


London has extraordinary large and important collections of medieval art, in the National Gallery, the British Museum and Victoria and Albert Museum. However, there was always something special about the Cluny.

I am not going to say much about this visit, other than there are some absolute treasure you will not see anywhere else. You see the embryo of the Renaissance emerging, by the sophistication on the draping of the gowns, the emergence of real people in the faces.

In particular, there are the series of tapestries of “The Lady and the Unicorn”, which must be seen up close to truly appreciate. I would compare it to viewing Claude Monet's Water Lilies at Musée de l'Orangerie.
http://www.tchevalier.com/unicorn/tapestries/

I still had some energy left, so I headed to the Consiergerie, as it had been several years since I had been there.
http://www.paris-conciergerie.fr/

It is educational about the Revolution, with interesting visual displays, in both French and English. Might be interesting for kids, and those not familiar with the Revolution. But, I know a lot about the Revolution, and have read exhaustively on the topic since I was 15 until now, so not particularly edifying for me. I thought in the past the Consiergerie was more interesting. A bit of a dud IMO.

Decision: Hop on a bus or walk? I still had too much energy to dissipate. I walked back toward the hotel and picked up a roasted chicken and bottle of wine on the Rue Mouffetard on the way.

Showered, drank a glass or two or wine, feasted on bits of roasted chicken, and planned my day in Rouen.

Next: A Pilgrimage to Rouen.

Regards ... Ger

A word of warning. It was cold outside, but much bloody colder inside – dress warm.>>

that's my abiding memory of St Denis too, Ger. It was perishing - and the same time of year too. However afterwards we got warm cheering the England Rugby team at the nearby Stade de France [I seem to remember that we lost].

I think we went to the Musee de Cluny on that same trip, and though we enjoyed it, we were not blown away by the tapestries. Monet, OTOH.....

:)

Ann: I have a rugby moment to share later. My darling Niece made me go out to an Irish pub in the Latin Quarter to watch Ireland slaughter France! I would have prefered to do it in the hotel in my PJs.

come on Ger - let's have the story. you poor thing, having to watch it in a pub - quel horreur!

reminds me of when DH and I went to Madrid one February weekend. to my surprise [how stupid can you be] the first place we "happened" to end up in was an Irish pub where they were showing the Saturday afternoon 6 nations' matches. first up - Italy v Scotland - the match when Italy scored in the first minute as I recall. The second match, Ireland v England, we lost. oh the shame.

Ann:

The Fields of Athenry: A beautiful Irish ballad, that was sung by the Irish soccer supporters during the World Cup in France last year, with dignity, pride, on key, and knowing the words.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zr1rzSSMsac

The hoards in the pub that night, most of whom were NOT Irish, were so bollocked drunk that they could not hold the tune and did not know the words. It was a national embarrassment! They let the side down.

I was appalled! :)

I love your descriptions, Ger ^^

Thanks FuryFluggy.

Do you like the ballad?

Apologies FuryFluffy in getting your name wrong. Please forgive.

Best .. Ger

After 10 or so trips to Paris, we finally went to the Cluny last March and I loved the tapestries. They were stunning. I also found St. Denis extremely cold. We froze. I am really enjoying your trip report. Thank you for taking the time to write it.

OReilly wonderful report, and thanks for including the restaurant reviews. I intend to review pertinent parts and take notes for our upcoming trip in September.

It's a beautiful ballad, by the way.

Just a comment on kerouac's Orsay vs D'Orsay. We have an ongoing joke about the time my husband asked for "the il conto" in Italy. :)

Ger: yes, the ballad is very nice, very Irish, and good to sing along with in the crowd.

Crawling over hot coals to get there is about the best restaurant review I can imagine. Just made a lunch reservation at L'Ange for our trip (my first to Paris) - thank you!

Just a comment on kerouac's Orsay vs D'Orsay. We have an ongoing joke about the time my husband asked for "the il conto" in Italy>>

dare I mention "with au jus" in that context, sundried? Not that you would ever say that of course.

Ger - to my shame I didn't know that that was the name of the song being sung by the Irish fans who I agree were some of the stars of the show. And the Welsh and the Icelanders.

Not, sadly the English, either on or off the pitch.

Ger, what fun to read your report. You tried some of my favorite restaurants and gave passing grades to a couple that disappointed me once too often, but well done nonetheless!

Pottoka was my secret (and that of many others I'm sure) for several years and then became more widely known. Good to hear it's still good. L'Ange 20 sounds like a must for next time.

Eating at les Papilles can be a challenge to those of us who were taught to finish what we were served, but oh, it's so good you feel you must do it, or at least I try. In answer to your question about how it works, no you have no choices, so it's not a good place for people who have food issues. Luckily though they rarely do anything really odd.

There is always a soup, served from the terrine into your plate, which has some cut-up ingredients awaiting their bath of liquid. That is followed by the main course, always served from a casserole onto your plate. This is usually a braise of meat or poultry. I don't think in many visits I've ever had fish. A bit of cheese and salad next, then a dessert. Bertrand, the owner (he of the tattoos) has always selected good and not overly expensive matching wines at our request. Since the resto is also a wine shop the cost is a modest markup on the retail price. Sorry you and your niece weren't happy with the choice. Did you ask to change it? I suspect he would have agreed to do so, but who knows.

I would agree that steering people away from Au Pied de Cochon is a good deed. You may have been lucky with your steak but everything I've tried at this over-priced tourist trap over the last years has been virtually inedible. I've finally stopped hoping for better.

Good for you having learned the wonder of the bus system. Unless you're in a major hurry there's no reason to go underground when one can enjoy the city above.

Pottoka is my absolute favorite in Paris. I will try out your other suggestions tho since our tastes seem to be similar. Thank you for your fun report.

I am patiently waiting to learn why you had a bad day at the Louvre and hoping to learn how to avoid duplicating your experience when I go next week.

Thank you all, once again, for your feedback.

Sorry about the silence, I have been in Birmingham for the last few days with a client. I'll probably be there three days a week for the next three weeks. In order to afford to go to Paris, I must do penance in Birmingham :) . I can't say I love the city, however, the people of Birmingham are very warm, kind and friendly.

shellio: Your description of dining at Les Papilles is invaluable, and I wish I had had it before I visited. Those of you that intend to dine there, and you absolutely should, take note, so you are prepared for this great experience. Au Pied de Cochon: Steak was fine, but, as I said, overpriced, and service marginal. Agree, I will not go back.

Pottaka: Oh Dear, now so many of us know about it, it is clearly NOT a secret anymore. One day in the future, there may be a line-up of Fodorites outside this restaurant fighting each other for a table :).

If you are a fan of Basque food, and in London, try http://www.eneko.london/. And, you must read The Basque History of the World, if it still in print: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Basque-Hist.../dp/0099284138

Oh Lord, my “awful” experience in the Louvre was nothing terribly awful, in the grand scheme of things. I want to assure everyone that I was not mugged in an alley, my bag was not stolen, and nobody punched me, or was even rude to me. It was simply a matter of high expectations, and extreme disappointment, and I am now feeling very embarrassed for mentioning it.

Best regards … Ger

Hi OReilly - I'm enjoying your report -- and your restaurant recommendations. Last time I was at the Louvre I was having problems with my hip and was pretty uncomfortable from that and just suddenly felt overwhelmed by the Louvre -- it just seemed so much work to find your way around -- and had to leave after we'd only been less than an hour. Much prefer the Orsay or the Orangerie.

Tuesday 21st February: A Pilgrimage to Rouen

I had looked at various options for a day-trip out of Paris. Some, I discounted because of the cost, as I had not booked well in advance.

Rouen emerged due to three factors:
• It was a cheap day-trip (12-16 Euros each way, at short notice)

• I have had a long and abiding love for Jeanne D'Arc (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Joan_of_Arc), since I was about eleven years old – she was my first female hero. I admired her bravery, her FU attitude and her insistence at playing on a level playing field with men. I also have to say, I was astonished at her ‘gifts’ – her apparent prescience, for want of a better word, and her military capabilities, that could not have been learned – spooky! However, I could never have made that ultimate sacrifice for either God or Country.

• Architecture, a personal passion. The Medieval cathedral, celebrated in numerous paintings by Monet, and of course the timbered buildings.

Here are some resources to help you with your planning:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rouen
http://www.rouentourisme.com/en/
http://mbarouen.fr/en

I took a bus, from just around the corner from the hotel, to ST LAZARE station (30 minutes door to station, as promised on the RATP.FR website/app) to catch the 0853 train to Rouen. I was very surprised how light the traffic is in Paris at that time of the morning, particular crossing from the Left to the right Bank. In London, it is now complete pandemonium in the city, due to roadworks, and I would never rely on a bus to get me from A to B in time, certainly if crossing from the South to the North Bank of the river. Well done Paris - I am very impressed!

With plenty of time to spare, I found the platform, got on-board and enjoyed the short trip to Rouen.

I had left a cold but sunny Paris just over an hour before, and arrived in a grey and miserable Rouen. I felt I was home in Dublin!

In the same way the Eskimos/Sami may have dozens of words for snow, the Irish may have an equal number of words for rain. I was to experience several versions of rain during the day. No wonder our Norman invaders felt so happy in Ireland and we could not extricate the bastards – Ireland felt like their own homeland of Normandy.

This might help you understand the Irish relationship with rain, ‘tongue in cheek’ obviously:
http://www.dailyedge.ie/irish-rain-s...75040-Jan2014/

When I arrived, it was what we Irish call a ‘soft rain’, meaning there is a visible mist in the air, coming at you from every side, neither warm nor cold, and you can’t actually see a raindrop, and it is futile to use an umbrella.

The Tourism Office is in Place de la Cathedrale, about 10 minutes’ walk from the train station. Go there first. There was a very warm welcome, and the young staff were delighted to help me plan my visit to Rouen. I was very disappointed that the Musée des Beaux-Arts was closed on Tuesday. Very bad planning on my part – I SHOULD have checked this out before planning to be in Rouen on Tuesday - I am so angry with myself for making such a basic mistake! I picked up an audio guide and map that takes you through the highlights of the town. Highly recommended for a day-trip.

The Guided tour starts in front of the glorious cathedral.
Here are my pictures for the day. They are not great, and do not do justice to the town:
pix.sfly.com/yhVUSVAV

By the time I left the Tourist Office, the rain had moved to ‘Spitting Rain’, so I was glad to escape into the Cathedral for shelter.
http://www.cathedrale-rouen.net/
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rouen_Cathedral

The Cathedral’s glorious Gothic Façade is of course famous for its many wonderful paintings by Claude Monet.
Inside, the stained glass windows are numerous and extraordinary. In addition, there are the tombs of the Dukes of Normandy, including Richard the Lionheart.

By the time I left the Cathedral, there was’ Wetting Rain’. Other tourists, who were clearly NOT Irish (nor perhaps Scottish nor Welsh), sought shelter in cafés, waiting for the rain to clear. I, being Irish, knew that the rain would NOT clear any time soon, so I trooped on, exploring the town.

I had high expectations, and these were exceeded. I had not expected to see such a large variety of the famed timbered houses – street upon street, dating from the Middle-Ages.
I headed to the Church of St. Maclou, another beautiful church, in the flamboyant Gothic style, with magnificent carved doorways, constructed with great artistry and devotion by unknown craftsmen. Just around the corner is the St. Maclou Ossuary, the last necropolis to be found in a city centre, its origins dating back to the great plague of 1348.

I then proceeded down the very picturesque Rue Dammiette, now tenanted by fancy antique shops. Further on is the equally lovely Rue Eue des Robes, once the centre of the linen-making area, and then on to the large and impressive Saint Ouen Abbey Church, built in the 14th century. Unfortunately, it had closed early for lunch, so I headed back to the St. Maclou to have a very mediocre lunch.

I continued my exploration after lunch, when the rain was bordering on ‘rotten rain’, still insufficient for a hardy Irish person to take shelter. The attraction of exploring in the rain is that one tends to have the grey miserable streets all to oneself, so well worth the drenching!

I eventually made my way to the perfectly gorgeous market Square and the Church of Jeanne D’Arc. After a few solemn moments of reflection at the spot where she was burned (cruelly roasted as it turns out, as the pyre had been built high so all could see). Also, it was normal for the executioner to strangle the victim before the pyre was lit, but this was not possible due to the height of the pyre, so she died an unnecessarily horrible death. Interestingly, she was condemned to death based on a bizarre and almost never used technicality - a Biblical clothing law, as she continued to insist to dress as a man when in prison, probably to protect herself from rape.

The modern church, built in 1979, is truly beautiful, its roof representing an overturned boat, and the colourful stained glass windows come from the 16th century Church of Saint Vincent. Candles were lit and prayers were said for family and friends struggling with illness.
Back outside, I headed back toward the Cathedral, taking in the Hotel de Bourgtheroulde, a magnificent town-house from the early Renaissance, now a very exclusive hotel. Then, down the Rue de Horloge to see the imposing clock, originally built in the 14th Century.

I dropped the audio guide back at the tourist office, and headed back to St. Ouen cathedral to explore the inside – more flamboyant gothic architecture and glorious stained glass windows.

Still having some time to kill before my train at 1650, I headed toward the train station to the Museum of Antiquities. It is small, and houses an eclectic collection of items from Greek, Roman, Medieval and Renaissance periods. I was very lucky that day, as it had an exhibition of illuminated manuscripts; mediaeval and Renaissance collections of Normandy’s museums and collections.
http://museedesantiquites.fr/en

Back to the train station in time for my train back to Paris.

Reflections on the trip to Rouen:

Rouen is a perfect day out from Paris – fascinating, different, cheap and close. Highly recommended for those of you, like myself, that have been to Paris many, many times, and also for those that perhaps have ten or more days in Paris. In winter, you have to be aware that your day ends at about 1600 because of the light, but if visiting in spring or summer, take advantage of the longer days, set out early and stay later. Don’t do as I did, and miss out on the Fine Arts Museum!

Rouen also has enough treasures and sights to enjoy for a 2-3 day stay so, if in Normandy, plan to spend at least a night there.

Next: An Art Frenzy: Museo de Orsay, MUSÉE DE L'ORANGERIE, Marmottan

Great, I'll make Rouen my next day trip. My bro has told me to go there for years but somehow I've always wandered far and wide. Thank you for the lovely report.

You are very welcome FuryFluffy :)

Loving your trip report and, being from the Seattle area, especially enjoyed your rain classification link. It fits us to a T. I will try to adapt the classifications to our own weather, because the terms we use here employ a many more curse words. :-)

I have tried to keep it polite nukesafe ... Similar to your town, almost every description of rain in Ireland is proceeded with a profanity :)

Wednesday 22nd February: Museo de Orsay, Musée de l'Orangerie, Marmottan

I was up early, took the bus around the corner directly to the Museo de Orsay (20 minutes).

It was very chilly and blowy, and I hoped that I would not have to line up too long to get in. I KNEW it was going to be a GREAT day when the line-up consisted entirely of five Korean girls. I was in the museum in a heart-beat, after obligatory bag search, which is now compulsory at all museums, for obvious reasons.

I bought the combined ticket for the Museo de Orsay, and Musée de l'Orangerie.

Musée de l'Orangerie

http://www.musee-orsay.fr/en/home.html
Here are my pictures:
pix.sfly.com/B6rrsv6q

I was so excited, my heart beating out of my chest, I forgot to pick up the map and, instead of heading straight up to the top floor to start with the Impressionists, I started on the 2nd floor, with the Post-Impressionists. I then visited the extraordinary Rodin statuary. Then the Art Nouveau rooms, which I have visited before: What an extraordinary exhibition of the best pieces of interior design, furniture and artefacts from this very brief moment in history.

Then, onwards up to the top floor to see the Impressionist galleries. The layout is wonderful – there is plenty of space to enjoy the paintings, and the galleries were relatively empty, so I had a very enjoyable visit. I have been here several times before, and familiar with the artists and paintings.

Regardless of how many times I have seen the paintings, their effect on me never diminishes: It is always a superb and exciting experience.

Perhaps there are two paintings that I will call out – maybe I did not see them before, or maybe I did not appreciate them before. They are not in any way the best paintings in the galleries, just the ones that called out to me on the day, as I was so very familiar with all the others.

Camille on Her Death Bed by Claude Monet. It made me weep. His grief is palpable and heart-breaking:
http://blog.sevenponds.com/soulful-e...ude-monet-1879

Les raboteurs de parquet: It seems out of place in the gallery, hyper-realistic and prophetic and, also, to me, I saw a potential of revolution and a new world order.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Les_raboteurs_de_parquet

The gallery was filling up and getting very noisy, and I was not must interested in the statuary and paintings in the lower floors.

So, I made my way to the Musée de l'Orangerie, just 15 minutes’ walk away.

Next: Musée de l'Orangerie

This might help you understand the Irish relationship with rain, ‘tongue in cheek’ obviously:>>

you've missed one that "we" cornish frequently suffer from Ger - "lazy rain" - the sort that comes at you sideways and can't be bothered to go round.

We went to Rouen with our kids once and stayed a night, though I'm not not sure that we achieved more than you did in a day. Anyway it was very nice. What I most remember are the numerous florists [some of them selling silk flowers which were exceptionally beautiful] and the very nice lady in a boutique down a side street who sold me and DD her first proper jacket. She has been hooked on them since.

I'm loving your trip report Ger - not such a long gap to the next instalment please!

<you've missed one that "we" cornish frequently suffer from Ger - "lazy rain" - the sort that comes at you sideways and can't be bothered to go round. >

HAHA - Good one Ann!

I didn't know whether I should discus the rain in detail. It is clearly important to US, that live with it all the time. I am really encouraged that you and nukesafe appreciate the effort and understand the nuances of RAIN! Travelers coming from Arizona might think there was only ONE type of rain.

I will make a stellar effort to keep going. Stay tuned for the next installment!

Best regards ... Ger

Musée de l'Orangerie

http://www.musee-orangerie.fr/en

My Pictures:
pix.sfly.com/0U4WX7ik

There was no line-up at the museum, I waked straight in, and it was almost empty – how much better can it get than that!


Those travellers to Paris in the winter months, who miss out on visiting Claude Monet’s delightful Giverny, can take comfort in Musée de l'Orangerie and swim in his glorious pond.


I had forgotten how wonderfully atmospheric these rooms are: I was a water sprite, sitting on a lily-pad, looking from the centre outward, and it was glorious.


But, there is more to see. Admittedly, I was familiar with most of the artists, and had seen most of the paintings before on previous visits, but today, I discovered two artists that I had never seen before. I was delighted! They are diametrically opposed, but my tastes have always been eclectic.


Marie Laurenin:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marie_Laurencin
Soft colours of pink, grey and mauve. Delicate and ethereal minimalist portraits of strong women, from a woman’s perspective. Perhaps not considered great art, perhaps it is more ‘Graphic Design’, but I loved the paintings anyway.


Chaim Soutine
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chaim_Soutine
Disturbing and gut-wrenching, but quite brilliant IMO.


Since coming home, I have order books on both so I can learn more.


It was overcast and cold as Hades when I left the museum. I took the Metro to the restaurant, and had an exceptional lunch in Pottoka before my visit to the Marmottan.


The bus ride to the Marmottan was marvellous: A bus-trip through the 16th arr, and a vision of divine buildings that almost all of us could not possibly afford to rent or buy.


This is the Paris of the VERY ‘well-heeled’: The left-overs of the Ancien Régime, the ‘Old Money’, the Diplomats, the Nouveau riche, the oil-rich decadent Arabs potentates and the Russian Mafia overlords. It is like a stroll through Mayfair! Where CAN one get a functioning Guillotine these days and how can one excite a mob to extricate the useless detritus? :)


It is OK: You are very safe – it is very unlikely the Russian Mafia take the bus.


The Marmottan
http://www.marmottan.fr/


This would be my third visit to the Marmotttan. I came for two reasons:
• The Claude Monet permanent exhibition, continuing a theme, and worth visiting for that alone
• The Pissarro exhibition



Well, I buggered the latter up: It was opening next day!


I was very happy with the permeant collection, and completely enjoyed my visit. Not to be missed if a fan of Monet.


It had been a fairly long day. I took the bus back to somewhere around St. Michel, and walked another 20 minutes back to the hotel.


Tomorrow: The Louvre and Cité de l'architecture et du patrimoine

I love how you describes those paintings!
The "Camille on Her Death Bed" is a sorrowful oeuvre.
Thanks for reminding me of the Pissarro exhibition in Marmotttan, I remember liking some of his paintings that I saw elsewhere. Funny I always thought he was a woman (from the name).

Thursday 23rd February: An Effing awful Day: The Louvre and Cité de l'architecture et du patrimoine

An Effing awful Day
Oh Dear. I have set expectations on this one, have I not? Please be assured that nothing really awful happened to me. No, I was NOT mugged. No, my passport and credit cards were not stolen. No, I did not get food-poisoning.

Nothing awful happened to me that day at all, and I am very embarrassed at having said I had an “An Effing awful Day”. Apologies!

It was simply me being a very spoiled brat, with very high expectations of that day, and then being subsequently let down and disappointed, because every day so far had well exceeded my expectations.


Here are my Pictures for the day:
pix.sfly.com/toSToQr1



The Louvre
http://www.louvre.fr/en

I had not been there for a couple of years, and was looking forward to it, particularly because of two special exhibitions mentioned by a Fodorite: The Vermeer exhibition and the Valentin de Boulogne Beyond Caravaggio.


I set out early, to get there by 0900. There was a line-up outside to get in, and once again it as bitterly cold and windy. However, I was in by 0920, so not so bad.


I then lined up for tickets to the Louvre galleries and book my ‘time-slot’ for the exhibitions, and was given a 1030 slot.


Great! Just enough time to store my coat and get to the Northern Europe Gallery, and have a very quick wander around to get myself in the mood for Vermeer. That worked out well, although clearly not enough time to appreciate the galleries, so I planned to revisit the galleries after I had viewed the Vermeer exhibit.


At 1030, I turned up, ticket in hand, at the entrance to the Vermeer exhibition, and there were hundreds before me! I am often given to exaggeration, but trust me on this … there were hundreds in the line-up before me.


I really should have left immediately, but I didn’t, and the more you get invested in your position in the line, the more it becomes difficult to leave. You know how it is!


At 1145, I finally entered the gallery, and I was even more PI$$ed off than when I was in the line-up to get in. Hundreds had entered, but not one of the Effers appeared to had left! We were shoulder to shoulder, with barely enough room to breathe. The viewers were crawling around the exhibits, 6-8 people deep, at a snail’s pace.


FU£K IT: I could not endure this torture any longer: I wanted to SCREAM!


I pushed my way through the throng, as politely as possible, and made for the exit. From what I glimpsed of the works, from afar: Yes, this is a simply magnificent collection of Vermeer’s works.


Emerging from this hellish nightmare, on the other side was the Valentin de Boulogne exhibition, which was almost empty. It was interesting and had a calming effect on me, but I am not sure I really appreciated as I should.


I had planned to spend a large portion of the day in the Louvre, but when I emerged from the Exhibition gallery into the main area, it was a nightmare – a cacophony of noise and people. There were even more hundreds lining up for admission to the Vermeer exhibition, the line almost filling the area. It was awful!


I knew where I could find peace and quiet: In Mesopotamia.
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=Me...ih=617&dpr=1.5

This is one of my favourite places in the Louvre. It has stunning masterpieces from one of the earliest civilizations, but it is always quiet and sparsely visited. Not sure why, as it is veritable treasure trove of the most magnificent and important artefacts in the museum.

My frazzled nerves calmed by Mesopotamia, I decided to cut my losses and leave the Louvre, sad that I would not be visiting the picture galleries.


I took the bus up to Palais de Chaillot, and had a mediocre lunch, before visiting
Cité de l'Architecture et du patrimoine


Quote: “Opened in 2007, this architecture and heritage museum impresses principally by its scale. The expansive ground floor is filled with life-size mock-ups of cathedral façades and heritage buildings, and interactive screens place the models in context. Upstairs, darkened rooms house full-scale copies of medieval and Renaissance murals and stained-glass windows.”

http://www.citechaillot.fr/en/

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=Ci...ih=617&dpr=1.5

This museum is for those of us that are fascinated with architecture.

Bus home, and looked forward to my visit to Chartres next day, and arrival of dear niece C for the weekend.


Regards .. Ger

Gosh. I booked a ticket to go to that Vermeer exhibition in April, but now you scared me. Such a pity that your Louvre day was mediocre after the fabulous visit to d'Orsay and Orangerie.

I am a bit worried too. I am not normally a Louvre fan, but was going to brave its depths to see the Vermeer exhibit. And I will be there on its next to last day.

Loving your TR... bookmarking!

Wow, I'm in Paris next month and was planning to go to the Louvre as well, they're having a Rembrandt exhibition as well at that time. But I will probably have to change my plans, I'm not waiting in line just to get into the place.

Luckily this great city offers so many art events, the ones at the Petit Palais (French 18th art) and the Cognacq-Jay (Venetian 18th century) will not be teaming with fellow visitors.

Fantastic Report, Ger, I've loved reading it so far.

Since the Vermeer problem was obvious everyone, especially the people in charge, they are supposed to have taken measures to fix it, but since I have been out of the country I'm not sure what they did and if it worked.

Kerouac: I was there on February 23rd. BTW, the attendees were over-overwhelmingly French not foreign tourists. Last week I booked on-line for an exhibition at the V&A here, and there web-site allowed me to see if they had sold a small/medium/large number of tickets in each time-slot, which was very useful.

Guys, I hope they get their act together before your visit. It is an excellent exhibition. I'd go on the day and see how it goes. The day I was there, the gallery opened at 0900, and my booking was for 1030, so there was no justification for the size of the line-up. By the time I left, the line-up was so large that it would probably take 2-plus hours to get in if you were at the back of the line - it was snaking through the entire court.

Best of luck!

I seem to remember that sometimes [usually when an exhibition is coming to an end] they open it up all night. Perhaps it's worth hanging on to see if they do that with these.

TTT for anyone who missed this. Keep it coming Ger.

Ger, I absolutely LOVE your trip reports! I remember your wonderful Dordogne report before I took my trip there. I haven't finished this one yet (it's late), but will do so tomorrow. I'll be in Paris in May, so will probably try some of your restaurants.
I'll be solo and love your late luncheon approach. I'll be staying in the 7th for my first few days in Paris, as I've always been in the 6th or Montparnasse and wanted to try a different area - then I'm going to Belgium for 5 days, then back to Paris to St. Germain for another week. After reading your report, I wish I were just staying in Paris the whole time!

I was afraid your Louvre experience was going to be something like this when you first mentioned how awful it was. I also would have found that extremely unpleasant. So the bad news is I had to give away my ticket because I was not feeling well. The good news is it might have been just as well that I didn't go.

Too bad, because I have just completed a course of videos about Dutch painting in preparation for the visit. But I suppose I benefited from that in any event.