I am salivating over that menu at Osteria del Capo!

dal, not del.

FuryFluffy and Mellen: Although Belle Parti was the best restaurant of the trip (Posh Nosh in very elegant surroundings), a very close second was Osteria del Capo, as far as quality of food and value for money. Everything was perfectly fresh and perfectly cooked. I could see myself eating there a few times a week if I lived there. The diners are all local regulars, and everyone knows everyone else, although that appears to be common for most restaurants I visited in Padua. I loved it that they recognized me on my second visit :).

More restaurants.

Friday 22nd September: Lunch in Ferrara: Sapori di Via Mayr

This is a tiny neighbourhood restaurant in my favourite Ferarra neighbourhood. Don’t expect fancy, but the food is really good home cooking and it is full of locals with babies. I had the pasta ragu, which was wholesome and hearty. I decided to try the pizza, which is recommended, but only managed to eat less than half. With two glasses of wine and water, the bill came to 26 Euro. No Website.

Saturday 23rd September: Lunch in Siena: Al Mangia

http://www.almangia.it/en_index.php

I wasn’t expecting good food in Siena on a Saturday in the Campo – better to set my expectations at the outset :). I was in the Campo, and I thought ‘what the hell’? I found a restaurant with linen tablecloths and a reasonable menu and enjoyed the cacophony of the Campo. I chose the baby pizza to start, which was not great and only finished half, but the main of penne with basil was actually quite good. Bill, with two glasses of wine and large water was 42 Euros. Hardly value for money, but given the location, to be expected.

Sunday 24th September: Lunch in Siena: Osteria la Mossa

I planned ahead for Sunday, as I wanted a proper meal. This restaurant, in the Campo, was recommended by the staff at the hotel, as a place where the locals eat, and did not disappoint. I had bruschetta to start, and a plate of ragu cinghiale (boar) as the main. Food was top notch and not very expensive at all (7 and 16 Euros respectively) and streets ahead of the food the day before. My splurge was half a bottle of excellent Amarone for 26 Euros – naughty me, but I had been SUCH a GOOD girl all week with all the candle lightly I did in the various churches :). Total bill with water and coffee was 57 Euros. I highly recommend this restaurant. It is easy to miss. With your back to the Palazzo Pubblico, look for the steep set of stairs on the left side, and it is just to the left of it.

Sunday 24th September: Dinner in Perugia: Amore per la pizza

http://www.amoreperlapizza.com/

I had taken a bus from Siena to Perugia and arrived to cold rain. I was perished and a bit hungry. I thought I might eat in the hotel, but as not up for posh dining and the prices were ridiculous, one of the disadvantages of staying in a five star hotel. Anyway, I needed a walk.

I set out to find a highly recommended pizza place (Pizzeria Mediterranea) but it was full, but just around the corner was the Amore per la pizza. You can dine outside in the square in front of the restaurant, but certainly not that night! Inside space was a cosy vaulted basement. The bill for a very tasty Pizza, two glass of wine and large water came to about 15 Euros. Good place for pizza.

StCirq: >dal, not del.<. I am laughing here Mellen: Once an editor, always an editor :). I can see you at your kitchen table with a BIG red pen, correcting my grammatical and spelling mistakes HAHAHHA

You got that right, Ger! I am a ship without water if a red pen isn't within an arm's length! Wouldn't ever deign to correct YOU, though. Plus, I studied Italian for something like 8 years, so I should know better!

I need to get off my duff and start researching watering holes for our trip to Italy a few weeks from now. I know I want to go back to the Albergo Papagallo in Stresa, but that's more for a sentimental journey back in time than for the food. And I want some good lake fish. I know nothing, zip, about dining in Milan, and need to do my research.

Your pictures and descriptions are making me ravenous, though. Believe it or not, the cuisine here can be limiting and I am SO ready to leave the duck behind and dive into some Italian specialties!

You had a thing for pasta ragu, Ger!

>You had a thing for pasta ragu, Ger!<

FuryFluffy: You are SO right. I almost NEVER eat pasta at home - maybe four times a year. Or Pizza for that matter. However, in Italy, I go nuts for the ragu - with rabbit, veal, beef, boar! I can't resist ragu when its on the menu. Maybe it was because I was walking about 18K - 20K steps every day and I was craving carbs. However, by the end of the trip, I could not stand the sight of it. I swear I will not touch pasta again until I return to Italy next time.

>cuisine here can be limiting<: Mellen: See above response to FuryFluffy. By the end of the trip I was craving anything OTHER than Italian food! :)

Monday 25th September: Lunch in Perugia: Da Cesarino

On the Piazza IV Novembre, beside the Cathedral, this restaurant caters for the business management lunch-time crowd, so it is very busy at 1230 when it opens, but tables open up at about 1400, and it closes at about 1430.

I ordered the chicken Diavolo (a small spatchcock half chicken with seasoning, barbequed), which was delicious, with some veg. I ordered a glass of local white, and the owner just opened a bottle and left me to it – I had at least two glasses but he only charged me for one: MY kind of restaurant! Total bill with litre of water and coffee was a very reasonable 25 Euros (actually, the bottled water was more expensive than the wine :) ) . I tried to go there later in the week, but unfortunately it was closed. Another recommended restaurant. It is important to note, that almost ALL restaurants in Perugia cater for the local crowd, so you probably can’t go much wrong, regardless of which one you pick.

Tuesday 26th September: Lunch in Gubbio: Taverna del Lupo

https://www.tavernadellupo.it/en/

I had planned to get to Gubbio first thing in the morning, but that plan was scuppered, as, mea culpa, I can’t understand an effing bus schedule! So, instead of taking the 0800 bus, I had to take the 1100 bus, which got me to Gubbio in time for lunch.

I had done some investigation the night before, and chose Taverna del Lupo. It was a great experience, one of the best!.

It has an old-fashioned ambiance and charm, excellent service, and really good tasty food. I am fairly sure I was looked after by the owner, a very well-dressed and distinguished gentleman, who founded it in 1968, and he was extremely attentive and charming to all the guests. It has the feel of a very well-run family restaurant that attends to every detail, and that adds a lot to the experience. However, it is not in the least pretentious – it is what it is, and proud of it.


As a starter, I ordered the ‘soft egg with fresh seasonal truffles’, and I had no idea what to expect, but you can’t come to Umbria and NOT eat truffles. After pouring my glass of Montefalco Umbrian red, my distinguished gentleman apologised, the starter was taking a bit of time. He came back with a plate of bruschetta on fluffy puffed up bread, with sides of basil pesto and tomatoes in oil. I cannot describe it, but it was heaven.

The egg starter was unexpected – I expected a boil egg with shaved truffles. What arrived was this massive fluffy meringue EVENT that filled the plate. He stood over me and encouraged me to cut into it, and in the middle was a perfectly runny egg yoke. I was delighted, and he was delighted that I was delighted. It is not just a dish, it is a performance! It was part savoury and part sweet, incredibly light, and utterly strange and delicious. I used the incredible fresh bread to lap up every morsel. I could have left right then, completely satisfied.

I ordered the rack of lamb as the main. I am extremely fussy about my lamb, and only order it when I am sure it is real lamb, and not bloody hogget, which stinks like mutton. They delivered 6 perfectly cooked tiny chops, fat seared, and pink inside. Luckily, they gave me a good shape knife so I could peel the meat off the bone.

I had an expresso, but there was no room for dessert (I have no sweet tooth anyway). I had to decline the kind offer of a free digestif, as I had already had two large glasses of the Montelfalco, and I was now two hours in Gubbio and I had seen nothing, and I had mountains to climb in the afternoon heat.

The bill for this unexpected feast on a Tuesday afternoon was a very reasonable 56 Euro. Days later in Florence, I would look back on this dining experience with longing. Clearly, I highly recommend this dining experience.

I love the way you are eating your way round Northern Italy, Ger - you are definitely a woman after my own heart - or should I say stomach? Except that I find it difficult to resist the dessert - as my waist line testifies.

Ann, I make up for the dessert calories in the WINE calories :)

Wednesday 27th September: Lunch in Assisi: Trattoria Pallotta

http://www.trattoriapallotta.it/en/

This was NOT my first choice of restaurant in Assisi (the one I chose was not open for lunch that day, my second choice was booked out), but it is just off the lovely Piazza del Comune, so it was convenient. Nice restaurant, with OK food. I had the Milanese Cutlet, where they beat a piece of veal or chicken into a wafer, dip it in egg and breadcrumbs and fry it. I have not had this dish for about 20 years, clearly for a good reason! It is SOO retro!

The restaurant generally gets good reviews, so I think I ordered badly. There was nothing wrong with the food. Bill for the main, with wine and water was about 25 Euros. There are better options in Assisi. Anyway, you don’t go to Assisi for the food. You go on a pilgrimage of either faith or art, or perhaps both, and you will not be disappointed with either choice.


Thursday 28th September: Lunch in Perugia: Trattoria Lorenzo

http://anticatrattoriasanlorenzo.com/

I rose very very early, to take the 0730 bus to Todi. I took the 1230 bus back from Todi to Perugia, so by the time I arrived back in Perugia, I was so hungry, I could have eaten the tires off the bus!

I had hoped to dine again in Da Cesarino, for something simple, but it was closed.

I wandered across the square and found Trattoria Lorenzo. I just liked the look of it. It was fairly empty, but open. An American couple was paying their bill, and clearly had loved the food. This is an expensive restaurant, but I wanted just ONE lovely dish.

I ordered just the main course, the rabbit. It was spectacularly delicious. This was a Top Posh Nosh dish. I would love to return for dinner. If you find yourself in Perugia, and want Posh Nosh, then check this restaurant out for a perfect (fairly expensive) diner.

The bill, for the main course, two glasses of excellent wine and litre of water was a very reasonable 35 Euros.

As I write this, I think back on the fabulous food experiences I had in the Veneto and in Umbria, and wonder what possessed me to leave this, and go to Florence?

Ann, I make up for the dessert calories in the WINE calories>>

oh I'm there with you with the wine too, Ger.

Should I not be looking forward to Florence, Ger? I seem to remember eating reasonably well there on my last visit but possibly because having found what I considered to be a good restaurant the first night, I ended up going back to the same restaurant the second night.

Having just returned from Switzerland, I was feeling the 'melancholy..' you describe, so it's been a nice distraction reading your report.
I have never travelled alone, nor been very focussed on food, but I can't help think that Italy is the perfect destination for that type of trip.

Ger we found a restaurant in Assisi the name of which escapes me at present but I had the loveliest lemon pasta with juniper berries -- quite the surprising combo (to me).

So enjoying your foray into Umbrian cuisine....

One of my fondest food memories is in Perugia, La Taverna. A few years ago but still has good reviews. Such good prices too...and the wine!

Chicken Diavolo, fluffy meringue with truffle and Milanese Cutlet are all new to me. Added to bucket list. Waiting for more ^^

FuryFluffy: I would suggest not going out of your way to taste the Milanese Cutlet .. it is VERY 1970s. You were probably not even born then :)

Ann: You gave me good recommendations for my visit in 2014, but this time I did no research. Also, I had eaten really good food before arriving in Florence, and less than same in Florence was twice the price.

Adelaidean: I love travelling alone - nobody would want to travel with me, given my pace :). Yes, Italy is certainly a wonderful destination for food.

annw: I wonder if it was THIS one, which looked 'avant-garde', but was booked out:
http://www.osterialapiazzetta.it/

Sundried: I did not check that out. Wish I had.


Regards .. Ger

Friday 29th September: Lunch in Spello: Ristorante Porta Venere

http://www.ristoranteportavenere.it/

I took the bus from Perugia to Spello at 0750, on a glorious sunny morning. What gorgeous little town it is.

I had chosen four possible restaurants, and checked out all during my ramblings. All were perfect options.

I chose Porto Venere, simply because I happened to be there at 1230, as I explored its winding street of the town. It is a very nicely appointed restaurant, inside and out. I dined outside, under shelter of umbrellas. It has a wonderful view over the Umbrian planes.

I started with the vegetarian Mille-feuille, which was refreshing and delicious. I ordered the Rabbit Ragu for the main course, which was excellent. The bill for starter and pasta courses, 1.5 litres of bottled water, two glasses of local red wine and coffee was 33 Euros.

Spello is awash with excellent restaurants. You will be spoiled for choice!

Being judgemental again massimop? Such a pity because I remember your first posts that I read were somehow helpful.

Yes, she is always incredibly helpful, and I am always grateful for her input.

A new low, even for Zeppole. Absolutely despicable. Such a sanctimonious bitch.

Good thing she can't bear to look at another post.

>Good thing she can't bear to look at another post.<.

We can but hope Mellen. :)

>>>Good thing she can't bear to look at another post.<<<

You know Stepsbeyond will keep reading anyway even with the "sensitive stomach".

The restaurant in Gubbio looks very familiar, but it's been 5-6 years since I was in Gubbio and I've forgotten the restaurants I chose.

Ger,

Im glad to hear you enjoyed pretty Spello. It remains one of my most favorite towns. Love all the flowers and beautiful views.

I know you have been on Fodors long enough to recognize the disturbed behaviour patterns of zeppole/sandralist/massimop. Just ignore as usual.

Do continue!

That restaurant looks similar Ger but I don't think it's the one; if I find it on my trip receipts I'll post the name.

Spello is IIRC known for good Umbrian cuisine and Il Molino was I believe one that had particular mention. We ended up at a different one next to it on the last trip, for lunch, and had a lovely and yes very tasty meal.

I've enjoyed La Taverna on a couple of different occasions and we also enjoyed our meals.

Ger we did have one lunch at the dining room at Brufani; incredibly old timey service and very formal; we were the only ones in there! Memorable meal though.

The idea that a Milanese cutlet is "19070s" will come as startling news to the Milanese, who have been eating for more than one century, continuously, and still do enjoy eating it>>

Ger, you can count me amongst the ignoramuses who thinks that the milanese cutlet [especially outside Milan] is rather outmoded. But then, what do we know?

Finishing off my restaurant reviews in Florence. Thank you all for your continued support :)


The Restaurants in Florence.

I had not planned well for eating in Florence. I am might have done better. A problem was the price/quality comparison based on the wonderful food and cheap prices in the Veneto and Umbria.

Saturday 30th September: Florence: 4Leoni

http://www.4leoni.com/

The restaurant is highly rated, and always very busy.
I ordered the Spaghetti alle vongole to start, which was excellent.

I ordered the Tagliata Manzo (medium rare) as the main course, my bad choice, as I don’t understand Italian meat cuts. Grilled, I only eat either rib-eye or sirloin, and this was a rather tough cut that had no fat in it – maybe what my Mother would call ‘round steak’, which she considered only good for stewing? Or perhaps a rump steak? I ordered medium rare, and it came VERY rare, almost mooing, and chewy. I sent it back, and it came back very well done, and even chewier.

The restaurant is large, and staff insufficient to deal with the influx of the busload of Scandinavian tourist that arrived when I was trying to get my waiter’s attention. However, my waiter was wonderful, and I left him a tip!

Bill for food and half-bottle of decent wine and water was 60 Euro.

Sunday 1st October: Florence: La Posta

https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Restau...e_Tuscany.html

It was a rainy dismal day. Just around the corner, was a family-run restaurant that I had visited and enjoyed in 2014. It is old-fashioned, like eating at your granny’s for Sunday dinner. I loved it in 2014, and loved it in 2017.

For the starter, I ordered the seafood risotto, hard to resist. WOW: it was incredible! It was so large, I thought I could not possibly finish it, but I did, every morsel!

For the main course, I ordered lamb chops. They served three perfectly cooked little beauties, pink inside and fat seared on the outside. Absolutely perfect!

Bill for starter, main and veg, accompanied by an excellent half-bottle of wine, litre of water and an expresso was 71 Euro.

I highly recommend this restaurant. It is worth the money.

I was having so much fun reading along... when that jerk popped up. Next time I"ll know better than to read any of her(?)postings.

Anyhow... LOVE the report. You went to all my favorite places, ate like I would and drank wine like I would. Who could ask for anything more??

Looking forward to the rest of your story.

(PS Is the cutlet like the thing NYC's skinny socialites used to eat in the '70s or is it more like wiener schnitzel? I'd never pass up a good schnitzel. )

We had a local Italian restaurant that made this fantastic brined pork chop lightly breaded and served with amazing lemon aioli. When it was good it was really good, but when it was bad, it was really bad! I think that’s why that restaurant didn’t survive. I tried to duplicate the thing unsuccessfully

I ordered the Tagliata Manzo (medium rare) as the main course, my bad choice, as I don’t understand Italian meat cuts>>

nor me, Ger. The restaurant I ate in a few years ago described this dish on its english menu as simply "cut" which intrigued me so much I had to eat it, but I had more luck and it was very good, though so rare, as you say, it was still mooing.

Honestly so far I don't think you've done too badly apart from the steak - the rest sounds really good, if rather more expensive than elsewhere, but you were in "tourist central".

I am really enjoying your culinary reviews. I am now missing Italy...time to go back.

The Trip Report

I have posted about the hotels and restaurants first for two reasons:

1: These are the topics that most interest me in trip reports when I am doing my initial planning, and I think I am not alone in that.
2: I almost NEVER finish a trip report, so best to get those recommendations out there at the start

The journey to Padova/Padua

I had a 0725 flight on BA from London City airport to Venice Marco Polo. LCY is only 20 minutes’ drive from my home at that time of the morning. Increasingly, I plan my vacation around where I can get to from LCY, as the thought of travelling across London to LHR and LGW, and then dealing with the massive airports, is stressful.

The flight was great, the service was excellent and there was not even the smallest turbulence on the journey. It was a very sunny day, and the view of the Alps was incredible. It was a great start to the holiday. Then, I landed in Marco Polo airport …..

The airport was overwhelming. We were taken by bus to Immigration, and it was just brimming over – the line-ups were outside the terminal, onto the tarmac. However, once we got inside, there was an EU passport track, so it only took about 5/10 minutes to get through. The hoards spilling over onto the tarmac, were for those that had non-EU passports. God love them – it would take at least 2/3 hours to get through, and it was warm and humid. I heard Canadian accents and saw the Maple Leaf flag, and felt nostalgic.

The baggage hall was challenged trying to deal with the amount of luggage that was arriving. There were at least three international flights: From Japan, Philly, and Toronto (1000 passengers); all those unfortunate people that would be lining up for the next 2-3 hours. I would never want to arrive in Venice on a non-EU passport on an international flight.

My bag finally arrived about 35 minutes after I landed.

I had checked out various options to get to Padua – by bus/train, by bus directly. I HATE taking the bus/train after an early morning flight! Two days before, I decided, Eff IT!, it was the first day of my holiday, and I was going to take a limo. SO I had booked:
https://www.veneziaportaest.com/it/

90 Euros, from Marco Polo Airport to my hotel in Padua, and an extra 10 Euros for them to meet me at arrivals. Well worth the money. Train and bus for same journey cost about 20 Euros to Padua station, then taxi to hotel about 15 Euros.

The driver was waiting for me, when I finally retrieved my luggage. I boarded a comfortable SUV, and I was on my way to Padua. The day was gloriously sunny, and I was glad I had taken the limo.

Padua

I had booked into Hotel Methis, as described above, for my stay in Padua.
http://www.methishotel.it/en/
https://uk.hotels.com/ho268167/?tab=description

After unpacking and showering, I asked the lovely receptionist Marco, who had studied Economics in Trinity College Dublin, for a restaurant recommendation. He recommended three, and I decided on, Osteria del Capo, which was a highlight of the trip:
http://www.osteriadalcapo.it/

After an excellent late lunch, I just wandered around the town. Sometimes you just fall in love with a place, the first time you visit: It is a good fit for you, it feels like home, somewhere you could live in and be happy and content. This is how Padua felt that day.

It had been a very early start, so I returned to the hotel early, and planned the next day. I booked my tickets for the Scrovegni Chapel, which I should have done weeks ago.

Here are some pictures from my wanderings:

pix.sfly.com/Od2gXkc9


Tomorrow: More Padua

Thanks! Wonderful pictures.

Great pics, Ger. Makes me want to give Padua another try.

Thank you for the culture trip link AND for reminding me of our lucious lunch at Taverna al Lupo. I don't particularly care for egg dishes and even I savored and enjoyed the eggs and truffles you mentioned.

Ger - I can see why you liked Padua - great food, lovely hotel and beautiful buildings. On my list!

Thanks guys for continuing to follow.

Re Padua:

I was talking to my niece about it over dinner on Sunday. I loved it because it felt like somewhere I could live, not just visit. Because of the fact it is a university town, it has a wonderful vibrancy: full of energy and life. It is small enough to be intimate, but large enough have everything one would need to be content, and has great rail links if you need be be in a big city.

Ger, wondering how you enjoyed the Scrovegni chapel, I thought it was wonderful, but not everyone does.

Nice report! Will stay tuned for more.