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-   -   Ger’s Italian Trip Report: Padua, Ferrara, Siena, Perugia and Florence (https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/gers-italian-trip-report-padua-ferrara-siena-perugia-and-florence-1478894/)

OReilly Oct 6th, 2017 08:18 AM

The Restaurants

I recommend this website. Great restaurant recommendations. Download the APP to your iPhone.

https://theculturetrip.com/europe/italy/

I had good luck with this website. In Padua, I took their recommendations, and was always delighted. Also, my hotel recommended three of their choices as ‘places where locals eat’.

Friday 15th Sept: Padua: Osteria del Capo

Osteria dal Copo: http://www.osteriadalcapo.it/

I had an early flight from London, so I was starving when I arrived at the hotel. I asked for a recommendation from the receptionist (Marco, who had studied Economics at Trinity College Dublin) for a restaurant that offered typical local cuisine, where locals eat. He recommended Osteria dal Capo, just around the corner from the Duomo. Interestingly, this restaurant was also recommended on the Culturetrip app.

I highly recommend this restaurant, and I went back a second time. Close to the Duomo, this is an excellent restaurant serving local fresh food, for the locals. The restaurant was full, and I was squeezed in as a late booking. The food is wonderful and relatively cheap, the clientele is predominantly local, and the service is friendly and willing to translate the menu.
I had the Octopus with veg to start, and the tagliatelle with ragu (maybe cinghiale?) to follow, with a litre of water and two glass of Cabernet Sauvignon.
The bill was 30 Euros.

Saturday 16th September: Padua: Belle Parti

https://www.ristorantebelleparti.it/en/homepage/

This was the great splurge day, and well worth it. It is ‘posh nosh’ for sure, in this elegant and beautifully decorated restaurant. I was underdressed for the occasion, and regretted I had not brought one of my Hermes scarves nor my Chanel flats with me :). The men were all nicely suited, and while the ladies were casually dressed, they either carried a Chanel Handbag or were wearing an Hermes scarf or Chanel flats.

The food was delicious, and I did not regret the cost, which I think was reasonable, based on same standard of restaurant in London.

I was served a free glass of Prosecco and an Amuse Bouche as I perused the menu (in English), and the Sommelier came to visit to discuss my wines. Yes, its THAT kind of restaurant! I had decided on a fish starter and the lamb to follow. He tried to steer me to a Chardonnay for the starter. NO! I drank SO much Chardonnay in the 1990s that I was poisoned against it. I know they have rehabilitated it in recent years, but I still cannot stand the smell or the taste of it, nor the memory of it. I told him I wanted something similar to a Sauvignon Blanc or Albariño, the only white wines I can drink. He came back with a very nice flinty Sauvignon Blanc, with which I was very pleased. We agreed to revisit the discussion for the lamb.

For the starter, I chose (quoting from the menu) the Skewer made with Sea Scallops and Prawns, and Gazpacho (22 Euros). Words cannot describe how very tasty this dish was. The scallops and prawns were perfectly cooked, and Gaspacho so subtly spiced. I am not ashamed to admit that I grabbed the bread, and cleaned out the bowl of soup, something I could NOT have done had I been wearing my Hermes scarf and Chanel flats, as it was SO common :).

For the main course, I chose (quoting from the menu) the Ribs of Lamb with Dried Fruits and "Tapenade". This involved another trip from the Sommelier. He suggested a Rose. Seriously? I absolutely HATE Rose – make a decision: Red or White? I told him I want my reds big and bold. He came back with a glass of delicious Amerone, bigger and bolder than I had anticipated, and how much was this going to cost me???

The lamb was absolutely perfectly pink, with a seared edges. Good manners prevented me from picking up the bones and sucking out every mouthful of flavour.

They offered a free disgestif, but I declined, as it was lunchtime, and I was still nursing my Amerone.

The bill was a very reasonable 69 Euros for: Starter, Main Course, Glass of decent Sauvignon Blanc, Glass of exceptional Ameron, Litre of Water, Coffee.

More restaurants to come …

OReilly Oct 6th, 2017 09:00 AM

Sunday 17th April: Vicenza: Ristorante Garibaldi Vicenza

https://www.thefork.it/ristorante/ga...7?cc=18174-54f

I search the evening before on “great restaurants in Vicenza”, and found none. I discovered a few days later, from my wonderful guide to the Palladian villas (Roberta), that there are no GREAT restaurants in Vicenza, just ordinary ones. If the locals want a great meal, they drive out to remote areas.

So, I arrived in Vicenza with no dining plans, which irritates me, as an important part of my vacation is good food, and I was a bit of a ‘spoiled bitch’ that day, based on the lunch experience at Belle Parti.

It was an extraordinary day in Vicenza (more later). Eventually, I had to eat something. I ended up in the main square and chose to dine at Garibaldi, right opposite the fabulous Palladian Basilica. I had very low expectations regarding its food, given its location in the middle of the main square. I was pleasantly surprised.

The service was incredibly slow, and they are renowned for it. However, the food was actually good. I had a rabbit ragu, two glasses of red wine and a litre of water. Bill was 28 Euros.

I came back later in the day and had a glass of wine outside to enjoy the view of the Basilica. If you plan ahead, you might do better, But, I thought this was OK.

Next … More Restaurants

OReilly Oct 6th, 2017 09:28 AM

Sunday 17th September: Osteria Pizzeria

http://www.elcoq.com/garibaldi/gourmet.html?m=1

After exploring Vicenza, I arrived back to my hotel, and it was such a glorious evening, sunny and warm, I wanted to keep the day going.

I had read about this pizzeria, just 2 minutes’ walk from the hotel, on the Culture Trip App, and thought this would probably be the only opportunity I would have to visit.

I walked in at 1900, as it opened, and it was empty. By the time I left, at 2000, it was full to the brim with locals, who all know each other, and there were much hugs and kisses face. It’s a place for the locals :) .

I had a pizza (HUGE, and delicious with a thin crust), two glass of red wine and a litre of water. Bill was 14 Euros. Highly recommend if you are in the area.

Next .. More restaurants

OReilly Oct 6th, 2017 09:50 AM

OPPS, sorry, I posted the wrong link for the Osteria Pizzeria. The correct one is the following:

http://www.lavignaosteria.it/

Regards .. Ger

OReilly Oct 6th, 2017 10:41 AM

Monday 18th September: Padua: Zaramella

http://www.ristorantezaramella.it/

Recommended by the Culture App. This was rather unexpected, as the restaurant is within a large hotel that caters to bus tours and business conferences.

The restaurant lacked charm that day, and the service was perfunctory (they had a big conference on that day, so service may be better otherwise), but the food was actually very good.

If you are in the area, visiting Scrovegni Chapel (only 5 minutes away), then this would be a very good place to have lunch, and I don’t think you would be disappointed. I would imagine it is better for dinner than lunch, as it gets excellent reviews.

I had a fish cod mouse to start, which is a specialty of the region, and it was delicious. I followed with Pasta alla Vongola, which was excellent. Half a bottle of good white wine and a litre of water: The bill was 38 Euro.

Next … More restaurants

OReilly Oct 6th, 2017 11:06 AM

Tuesday 19th September: Palladio Barbaro: De Gusto

http://www.de-gusto.com/

I hired a guide to provide a tour of three Palladian villas (more about that later). She suggested this restaurant before we began our tour of the Vila Barbaro.

This is a gem of a restaurant. All the food and wine is sourced locally, and the restaurant is run by locals. There is also a wine shop on-site.

We both had a delicious warm salad. I had two glasses of a superb Processco that I would never have in the UK. Coffees and water.

Bill was 34 Euros.

sundriedtopepo Oct 6th, 2017 11:35 AM

I love your restaurant descriptions of the food and wine, Ger, always makes me hungry. Food is also a big part of our trips.

annw Oct 6th, 2017 05:35 PM

Ger, was that pizza place in Vicenza Leone?

Did you get to the Olympic Theatre?

OReilly Oct 7th, 2017 09:22 AM

>Food is also a big part of our trips.<

As for me Sundried :)

Yes annw, I did, and many other of his wonderful works. You'll have to wait for that :)

mjs Oct 7th, 2017 09:09 PM

A most delightful trip report Ger. Have a meeting in Florence next May and you are giving me great ideas for things to do afterwards!

Elisabeth54 Oct 8th, 2017 12:22 AM

What a treat it is to sit at home, the rain pouring outside, imagining myself in sunny Italy while reading all your stories, feedback and suggestions. That's just what I love about the Fodor's forum. Thanks again all.

A private message to annhig: first of all I hope your husband's health is improving. I always enjoy reading your trip reports.
Re your remarks about language schools in Italy. Sofar I have only been to Turin, l'Italiano Porticando. It's a small school located in the center of town.
I can recommend it.
I really liked Turin. Found it to be rather elegant possibly due to the French influence over the centuries.

I am now considering Bologna and Verona for my next Italian language holiday. As I plan to go on my own rather than with a group of friends I prefer a smaller town. All suggestions are welcome of course.

annhig Oct 8th, 2017 12:49 AM

Elisabeth - I had not considered Turin for a language school, mainly because there is no direct flight there from our nearest big airport, but it's a good idea. My friends spoke very highly of the school they attended in Bologna and the excursions they did, which IMO are a big part of the experience; I've never been to one in Verona.

Thank you for your good wishes for my DH. At the moment he is comfortable, which is a blessing.

Elisabeth54 Oct 8th, 2017 02:48 AM

Hello again Annhig, would you be so kind to ask your friends for the name of the language school in Bologna? Sorry all others for this deviation from the original thread.
P.S. does anyone know if there is a way to contact a fellow Fodorite directly in order not to bother others?

FuryFluffy Oct 8th, 2017 05:13 AM

I'm on for the ride. Have always enjoyed your trip reports, but if you say it was your best, then i'm the more eager. The techno part is helpful, the gastronomy part even more so ^^

annw Oct 8th, 2017 09:13 AM

Elizabeth look at InClasse in Verona (took a week-long class there Sept before last). Shout-out to annhig too!

OK Ger we are keeping occupied while we wait!

OReilly Oct 8th, 2017 10:57 AM

I love your conversation guys :)

Where was I? ....

annhig Oct 8th, 2017 11:30 AM

Elizabeth - it was this one:

https://madrelinguaitalian.com

annw Oct 8th, 2017 01:26 PM

Ger I had the wrong hotel in Ferrara; it is Hotel de Prati, Via Padiglioni. (I never expect anything as good as Brufani for that price! )

OReilly Oct 10th, 2017 07:03 AM

More restaurants:

Wednesday 20th September: Lunch in Padua: Osteria dal Copo:
http://www.osteriadalcapo.it/

After a morning in Vicenza, exploring more Palladian mansions, I came back to Padua for lunch, back to Osteria dal Capo for a late lunch.

I had the octopus again, but this time with autumn veg, and tagliata di manzo (sliced beef). Excellent food. With a quarter litre of wine, a litre of water and a coffee, bill was 38 Euros.
Again, I think this is an excellent restaurant, and well worth a visit.

Wednesday 20th September: Dinner in Ferrara: Este Restaurant

A short train ride from Padua to Ferrara. After checking into the hotel, I felt like a snack, so proceeded to the Este, just around the corner from the hotel, which is highly rated for casual dining. The place was buzzing, but I managed to get a table. The menu is enormous and varied, and they are renowned for their meats and pizza. I had a bowl of pasta ragu, large bottle of water and two glasses of red. Bill was about 15 Euros.
http://www.estebarferrara.com/

Thursday 21st September: Lunch Ferrara: Osteria degli Ulivi
www.osteriadegliulivi.net

After a morning walking Ferrara, I had built up a healthy appetite. This is a nice restaurant for lunch – food is local and fresh. I started with pumpkin ravioli with a sage and butter sauce (sauce was lovely, but I was reminded that I really don’t like pumpkin!) and followed with a fancy rabbit dish, which was delicious. Bill for the two course, two glasses of wine and water was 38 Euros.

FuryFluffy Oct 10th, 2017 07:23 AM

Yes, more restaurant please.
Octopus with tagliata di manzo sounds great. Dining in Ferrara seems not expensive at all.


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