Go Back  Fodor's Travel Talk Forums > Destinations > Europe
Reload this Page >

German train misadventures (and the rest of WillTravel's trip to Munich, Salzburg, Regensburg, Passau, and Vienna)

Search

German train misadventures (and the rest of WillTravel's trip to Munich, Salzburg, Regensburg, Passau, and Vienna)

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Nov 25th, 2008, 05:06 AM
  #1  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 12,188
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
German train misadventures (and the rest of WillTravel's trip to Munich, Salzburg, Regensburg, Passau, and Vienna)

This is an out of order trip report. I've already written about the last 4 days in Vienna here:
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=35168437

I took SEA-CPH-MUC on the outbound, and VIE-CPH-SEA on the return.

SAS is a great airline, at least for international travel. It's hard to point to any one thing, but I really enjoyed all the flights. I've flown a number of airlines, but SAS is tops in my book. The drawback is that you get only 25% mileage for these economy flights.

I am also one of those people who does not really mind flying. I was able to get into an interesting book, and in between dozing off and on, I was delighted to have so much uninterrupted time to devote to it. That never happens in real life.

Transiting through CPH was easy. Very oddly, when my underwire bra set off the metal detector, they had a male agent do the patdown. He was so uninterested that I did not bother complaining.

When I got through passport control, I must have looked slightly lost (I wasn't really, just possibly tired). A driver in one of those carts spontaneously offered to drive me to my gate. Not that I needed that, but it was a nice perk.

I landed in Munich around 4:30 PM on November 15. I picked up my luggage, and bought a day ticket for 10 Euros. This turned out to be unnecessary, as I didn't use transit again that day, but it was only an extra 80 cents compared to a one-way ticket, so worth the risk.

I texted my friend who has been working off and on in Munich, as a consultant on site at a very large corporation. She met me at the train station, and helped carry my luggage for the short walk to the hotel. What a nice perk.

I used Priceline to get my hotel, the Marriott Courtyard. The total amount (when converted from USD) worked out to about 49 Euros per night. Fortuitously, it was the same hotel that my friend stays at for her work.

(to be cont'd)
WillTravel is offline  
Old Nov 25th, 2008, 05:14 AM
  #2  
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I am waiting willtravel! Sounds great. Priceline is sounding VERY good right about now for Feb trip!
judyremis is offline  
Old Nov 25th, 2008, 06:33 AM
  #3  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 12,188
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I checked into my room, which was basically identical to my friend's room.

We then went out for a walk. It was dark already - I had seen daylight for only a few minutes when I left the airport to walk across the plaza to the S-Bahn station.

We walked through the Karlsplatz and Marienplatz areas for a while. She showed me various buildings, and we went through the pedestrianized areas. We then went for dinner at an Indian restaurant, although I can't tell you where.

This was a nice dinner, although as my friend pointed out, the prices in Euros seem to be about the same as in Canadian dollars back home.

We then walked back to the hotel.

On Sunday morning, I got a few items from the bakery on the corner, which provided nice breakfast items (not just sweet pastries, which I don't really like for breakfast).

We met up in the lobby, and headed to the train station, for a daytrip to Salzburg.
WillTravel is offline  
Old Nov 25th, 2008, 06:56 AM
  #4  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 12,188
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
My friend had gotten a Bayern ticket which allows up to 5 people to travel anywhere in Bavaria, and up to Salzburg, for a roundtrip cost of 27.50 Euros. So even with two of us, this was a great deal. The drawback is that you cannot take the fastest trains.

Our train was progressing well through the Bavarian countryside. We were chatting and observing the other passengers.

But then, just after we had passed Chiemsee, around Bernau, my friend felt a sudden clunk. I did not feel it. The train braked to a sudden stop, and the brakes smelled terrible.
WillTravel is offline  
Old Nov 25th, 2008, 07:12 AM
  #5  
yk
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 25,877
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Uh-oh!
yk is online now  
Old Nov 25th, 2008, 07:18 AM
  #6  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 12,188
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
In short order, it became clear what had happened, thanks to the fact that my friend is a native German speaker.

Someone had committed suicide by putting himself in front of the train. How terrible for the driver.

As passengers, we watched out the windows as dozens of emergency workers came to the scene. Luckily, we did not have a view of the body recovery.

We did notice they brought some equipment, and were building a bridge across a ditch. We thought it was for a stretcher.

At some point, there was an announcement, in German, that there would be replacement buses. Later, there was an announcement that one bus had arrived, but they were waiting for three others, because they didn't want people fighting over the buses.

Finally, after about two hours, all the buses arrived. It turned out the bridge was for us, the passengers. It was a long step down off the train, and everyone was basically carried down that step. There were also people lining the path to help prevent us from slipping.

At some point, the Red Cross had appeared on the scene. All of the passengers were offered lemon tea with sugar, which was actually quite good.


All this time, I had been learning various German words, like for emergency services, firefighting, boots, etc. My friend was quite happy to teach me.

We got on the bus, and it rolled through the Bavarian countryside, which I saw much closer-up than I had from the train. It stopped in the town of Traunstein, and let us off at the station.
WillTravel is offline  
Old Nov 25th, 2008, 07:26 AM
  #7  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 12,188
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Of course, the first order of business is a long queue for bathrooms. Then it became clear that no train would arrive for an hour. So we headed into the cute little town, and went to a Turkish donair place.

My eggplant-based wrap was very good, with lots of fresh vegetables. So was my friend's falafel.

So we got back to town, waited for the train, and finally got to Salzburg, about four hours later than intended.

My friend had heard someone calling her travel agent about a flight, because this person had the misfortune of having a flight from the Salzburg airport. No one expects a suicide to slow down your travel plans, but this whole experience would make me more reluctant to rely on long-distance trains to get to the airport.
WillTravel is offline  
Old Nov 25th, 2008, 07:38 AM
  #8  
yk
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 25,877
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
What a terrible ordeal you and the other pax (and the train conductor) had to go through. Ugh! I wonder how I would feel if I were on that train.

I assume the high-speed train takes the same track? So if you didn't get the Bayern ticket but had bought a regular ticket for the hi-speed train, would you have come across the same problem?
yk is online now  
Old Nov 25th, 2008, 07:43 AM
  #9  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 12,188
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I think traffic was blocked in both directions. So I'm not sure if there's any rerouting around Bernau that is possible, or not.

Later on, when we returned, our train was slightly delayed, and they were still blaming the incident for this.

A final sad detail about the case is that my friend heard two men talking about their being a wheelchair wedged under the train. It's very sad to think that in death, the man had dozens of people there to deal with the situation. But he must have felt very alone and desperate to do this.
WillTravel is offline  
Old Nov 25th, 2008, 07:46 AM
  #10  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 12,188
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Despite everything that happened, and our greatly abbreviated time, we still went ahead with our exploration of Salzburg.

Strangely enough, I had done next to no preparation for this daytrip. Mostly this was because I was extremely busy. I had learned enough to pick up a map at the information point in the train station.

We headed out for the walk to the old town. It was a lovely jaunt, with the bridges, river, and mountains. Some houses looked like they are built straight into the cliff face.

I picked up some Gluwein at a stand. It was okay, but nothing I'd bother trying again, unless guaranteed I'd get something better.

I knew enough to head to Getreidegasse, a narrow pedestrian street in the old town.
WillTravel is offline  
Old Nov 25th, 2008, 07:12 PM
  #11  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 12,188
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
We saw an interesting looking conditorei, and stopped to try it out.

I had the Sacher torte, and my friend had a doughnut.

I actually liked the Sacher torte quite well. I know feelings are mixed on this issue, but I don't generally like regular cake, so the texture was fine for me.

We walked by Mozart's birthplace, peeked into the cathedral, saw the Christmas markets being set up (but they weren't yet open), and continued walking around the old town.

I had thought we wouldn't have time, given the day's events, to go up to the fortress, but at one point in our walk, we realized we were right there at the funicular, and we still had time to go up.

So we did (a slightly scary ride), and looked around the fortress grounds and down at Salzburg. Twilight was setting, and with the lights, it was very beautiful.

We went down again, and took a slightly different walk back.

I didn't get to see any museums in Salzburg, obviously, but given the day's events, I think we had the best time there that we could have. I did feel a bit guilty about going on sightseeing after that, but really it would have served no purpose to give up the daytrip.

We got back to Munich, and met up with another friend (both of these women are former coworkers too), and went out to dinner at an Italian restaurant near the Isartor S-Bahn stop (sorry, I again can't give the name or address).

This one has a wide selection of pizzas, as well as other Italian dishes. I had the pizza with beef carpaccio, arugula, and Parmesan. It's served with a bowl of garlic oil on the side - really very tasty. I think my very good-sized pizza was about 12 Euros.
WillTravel is offline  
Old Nov 25th, 2008, 07:16 PM
  #12  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 12,188
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Monday, Nov. 17
That morning, I left the hotel early, grabbed a cappucino at the corner bakery, and took the S-Bahn to the event. It was fun, and interesting, and I met lots of people. My presentation went fairly well.

I got back to the hotel quite late, and decided to try the Marriott Courtyard bistro. I had some sort of venison with ribbon pasta. I think this had the potential to be very good, but they unfortunately decided to use some sort of dessert-style seasoning on the venison, which I did not particularly like.
WillTravel is offline  
Old Nov 25th, 2008, 07:20 PM
  #13  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 12,188
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Tuesday, Nov. 18
Day two of the event. By this time, I was feeling a little tired and my introvert tendencies were rearing up a bit. On both days, we were served breakfast at the event site, and I sort of hid in the corner. But again, I met more people and learned some more stuff.

I had arranged to meet up with my friend for one last dinner. We went again to the Italian restaurant I mentioned, and I had the same pizza as before, but this time with the addition of black truffles.

We then went back to the hotel, and because I had checked out, I used her computer to check my email.

I had the nagging feeling I was doing something wrong with my planned trains. I thought I was to catch the train at about 9:30 PM.
WillTravel is offline  
Old Nov 25th, 2008, 07:25 PM
  #14  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 12,188
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I should mention that other than my early morning walk to the train station and catching the S-Bahn, I scarcely saw Munich in daylight. On Tuesday, I snuck out for about 20 minutes and took a walk and took some pictures.

Anyway, the top of my printed-out Deutsche Bahn train ticket said:
<1080>(18.11.08)NV*R-Hbf 21:33 IC2029/(19.11.08)Passau 16:35 ICE27
VIA: Passau<1181>Neumarkt-Kallham*Wels

But I had forgotten (except for my subconscious nagging me), that the actual itinerary is written further down the ticket, and was as follows:
München Hbf 18.11. ab 19:43 24
Regensburg Hbf 18.11. an 21:21 5
RE 4262
Regensburg Hbf 18.11. ab 21:33 9
Passau Hbf 18.11. an 22:42 5
IC 2029, 1 Sitzplatz, Wg. 8, Pl. 67,
1 Gang, Großraum, Nichtraucher
Passau Hbf 19.11. ab 16:35 5
Wien Westbahnhof 19.11. an 19:26 3
ICE 27, 1 Sitzplatz, Wg. 21, Pl. 53,
1 Gang, Großraum, Nichtraucher

So, if you can tell from this, the line at the top was not actually telling me the first train I needed to catch that night, but the second train. I knew this when I booked the ticket, but I had somehow forgotten.
WillTravel is offline  
Old Nov 25th, 2008, 07:27 PM
  #15  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 12,188
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
When I got to the train station, in what I thought was plenty of time, I noticed my expected train wasn't listed on the boards!

So I went to the ticket counter, but then I looked further down my ticket, and remembered the terrible truth.

So for 21 Euros, I got a Bayern ticket and would be able to go to Passau that night, on a train leaving in about 15 minutes.

So, I thought - a 21 Euro mistake is not great, but not the end of the world.

But I was not through making mistakes that night . . . .
WillTravel is offline  
Old Nov 25th, 2008, 07:31 PM
  #16  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 12,188
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I was dozing on and off, while alternately being quite nervous about my laptop and purse, although I was leaning on them.

Somehow or other, I woke up at the Landshut stop, and in a highly confused state, wandered off the train with a bunch of other passengers. This is truly inexplicable, and makes me doubt my sanity.

I realized in a moment I should be back on that train if I wanted to get to Passau, and went to get on, but it was taking off!
WillTravel is offline  
Old Nov 25th, 2008, 07:34 PM
  #17  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 12,188
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Now I was in a fine pickle. The next train to Regensburg was due in about an hour. I went inside the semi-deserted train station, and waited for it. I wasn't 100% sure if I could take an ALX train with a Bayern ticket, but there was no one to ask.

Some teenagers were running around the station, literally. I'm not sure if they were playing tag or what. It was a strange sight. I kept on trying to be positive, considering how I would never otherwise have had the cultural experience of sitting in a darkened train station late at night if I hadn't screwed things up so badly.
WillTravel is offline  
Old Nov 25th, 2008, 07:37 PM
  #18  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 12,188
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I was fairly certain that once I got to Regensburg, I would not be able to get a train that night to Passau (I think I was arriving in Regensburg about 12:30 AM).

Indeed, I was right. The next train to Passau was at about 5 AM. I'm really not one for sleeping in train stations, especially with all the luggage I had with me.

I was also worried about whether I would be charged for my hotel in Passau, which was obviously within their rights. So this had bloomed up to a series of costly mistakes.

At the train station in Regensburg, I saw a sign saying the 3* Star Inn was 200m away. So with no other real options at that time of night, I headed there.
WillTravel is offline  
Old Nov 25th, 2008, 07:42 PM
  #19  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 12,188
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
The night clerk certainly spoke English better than I spoke German, but not to the standard I am typically spoiled by in Germany. I got a room for 59 Euros, and opted for the 10-Euro breakfast.

I have stayed at several 3* non-chain hotels in Germany, and I think the Star Inn was not up to the same standard, although it's the most expensive one I've stayed at (and the most expensive of the trip). The reviews on booking.com are reasonable, so maybe I was just feeling distressed and uncharitable. But I thought the corridors were dingy. The tiny single room had hardwood floors, which I actually like in a hotel. But I noticed a black bug crawling along in the bathroom, which I quickly smashed, but I was very suspicious as to what type of bug it might be.

I don't know, of course, but I did not have any bites on this trip, so I hope to have escaped that scourge. I slept fine, despite everything.

I attempted to call my hotel in Passau, but got a night clerk who absolutely could not understand me. This cost 0.50 Euros from my hotel room phone.

Thus far, cross my fingers, the hotel in Passau that I did not stay at has not charged me. Maybe I've been lucky.
WillTravel is offline  
Old Nov 25th, 2008, 07:51 PM
  #20  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 12,188
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
The hotel breakfast was good and it was up to German 3* standards, although I couldn't help but laugh that the radio station (or possibly some CD) was playing "My Humps", a song I would be quite happy to forget.

I stored my luggage, and decided to explore Regensburg. The important thing, too, was that I get to Passau in time to explore it, and catch my late afternoon train to Vienna.

I walked around the old town, which is quite nice. It was sunny, which certainly helped my mood. I headed back to the train station, bought the next available ticket to Passau (19.70 Euros), and sat firmly in place until I got there.

I was able to store my luggage at lockers at the edge of Platform 1. The large locker cost 3 Euros. I was still carrying my laptop and purse around, of course.

I set out to explore Passau, which is also a very nice town. It's at the confluence of the Donau (Danube), the Inn, and the Ilz. I walked around and through one part of the old town, walked back along the Inn side, and walked down to the Danube and around. Then I went for a late lunch at an Italian place. The grilled salmon was very good, but the iceberg lettuce they served with it was watery.

I wasn't taking any chances, so headed back to the train station some time in advance of when I needed to be there. I then used the Internet at the bookstore in the train station, for a cost of about 2 Euros.

For the cost of 40 Euros, more or less, my inadvertent change of plans meant I got to see the old town of Regensburg. I'm sure I would have thought the schedule too hectic if I hadn't actually done it, but it worked out fine.

I got the train to Wien Westbahnhof, took my reserved seat, and sat there until I got there.
WillTravel is offline  


Contact Us - Manage Preferences - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Do Not Sell or Share My Personal Information -