maitaitom

"Museum San Marco"

I had forgotten how much I really liked that museum. As Bob Hope might say (if he were still alive), "Thanks for the memories!"

latedaytraveler

O'Reilly, great description of San Marco. Gracias.

Hope that you had good weather sometime before you left Florence.

OReilly

Hello guys:

Beth: Jump in anytime with your comments. Hugs

TDudette: Unfortunate timing, as always happens in Italy. Its worth a visit next time you explore Tuscany.

Annhig: The text in the book is appalling and incomprehensible (reminds me of Babblefish translations from a decade ago) but the book pictorially shows the highlights of the exhibition very well. You might be better off purchasing the Italian version, and translating for yourself. I thank you for the restaurant recommendation .

Sarge: Re Savonarola, I just weep at all the beautiful art and crafts treasures that were lost in his ‘Bonfire of the Vanities’ – unforgiveable. If a God created a human, and endowed the human with the gift of creating things of beauty, how could beautiful objects be a sin against the God? What is the book BTW? Weather is getting better here in London, and we anticipate a warm long weekend. Glad that Puck (what a great name) hung in for your return so you could say goodbye. I know how difficult this is, so what can I say? Hugs

Maitaitom: You are welcome. I equally enjoyed your London/UK trip report.

Latedaytraveler: Weather got better and worse, but all was good, because I decided to be flexible with my itinerary.

Thank you all for your feed-back, as it encourages me, or perhaps shames me, to complete the report.

Best to all ... Ger

latedaytraveler

O'Reilly, good reminder for any traveler:


"Weather got better and worse, but all was good, because I decided to be flexible with my itinerary."

bookchick

Ger, reading this has been great.

On the "other end" of seasons, I couldn't believe, when I lived in Florence, that people broke out their fur coats in September. To me, it was the kind of weather in which one started out in the morning wearing a sweater, and by noon one was so warm the cardigan came off. "Dopo cena" in the evening, if going for a walk, one might need to don a sweater again, but I simply couldn't fathom the fur coat. (Well, ever, actually, but especially in September.)

I'm glad to hear of your hotel stay especially. I was trying to think of a website I used to use when I had last-minute travel changes, and would book myself into hotels with certain star ratings or amenities and in certain areas of my selected city. It may have been lastminute, but I'm not certain.

And I'm so glad to were able to see the exploding cart! Once you've seen it, you never forget it.

Savonarola's influence can be seen especially in Sandro Botticelli's works. They transform from "Primavera" and "Birth of Venus" to the "Mystical Nativity", hence the sensuous to the more sacred in nature. To be denounced by this monk, though, surely meant certain professional death, and I can appreciate how artists feared him.

Looking forward to more.

BC

OReilly

Saturday April 19th : Santa Croce

After a short taxi ride, I arrived at the well-loved Basilica Santa Croce.
http://www.museumsinflorence.com/mus...a_s_croce.html

I have visited previously, and it as always been a highlight, specifically because of the Giotto frescos – who can resist the delights of Giotto?

It was still pelting rain, but there was no line-up for entrance, so I got straight in. I could not rent the free audio/video guide, as I had not brought my passport. This happened a few more times during the visit, so please take note – bring your passport if you want to rent the audio/visual guide.

On entering, I ran straight up to the Bardi and Peruzzi chapels to see the Giotto frescos. I was standing there, entranced by the frescos, when an Italian lady approached me, waved at the frescos, and I think asked me the painter’s name. ‘Giotto’ , I said, hoping I was answering her question. She turned to her friends and said ‘Giotto!’ They all smiled and thanked me. I felt pretty cool that I was providing advice to Italians in Santa Croce!

Here are some images:
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=ba...w=1062&bih=558

And information on Giotto:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Giotto

I love this church, every inch of wall contains a jewel, be it a fresco or a memorial tomb. The large square outside the church is simpatico, and conjures images of medieval life. I do love this area, and was destined to return a few more times during my visit.

It was still raining when I exited the church, so I needed to secure a nice place for lunch, which, given the weather, would be a long one. Before I had left the hotel that morning, I had checked out a posting from annhig, re a lovely neighbourhood restaurant in Sante Croce, on the Borgo Santa Croce – the Trattoria il Giova, which sounded perfect, as the day called for robust food and wine:

http://www.ilgiova.com/contatti.html

I walked from Sante Croce Church, through the streets in a really lovely neighbourhood, noted it for future trips, and located the restaurant. I booked a table for 45 minutes hence, as there were a couple of churches I wanted to briefly visit before my lunch.

The first was just a 2 minute walk from the restaurant – Sant’ Ambrogio. It is situated in a small square, with avenues radiating from it, like sunbursts, and it is at the heart of the community. There were traders selling their goods, and even one of those wagons selling tripe. I remembered my Nana, who loved tripe boiled in milk and onions – absolutely vile. She claimed it was a cure for stomach ulcers, and used to force-feed it to my father.

It’s a lovely local church serving the community, dating from the 13th century, has some interesting frescos and art-work, and contains a splendid tabernacle from the 15th century. If this were my ‘local church’, I’d be a regular attendee on Sunday. I’d like to live in this little village in Firenze.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sant'Ambrogio,_Florence

The second, the Santa Maria Magdallena dei Pazzi, is about 7 minutes walk from the restaurant, and is decorated in high Baroque style – not my favourite style, but you have to admire its artistry. The church was in darkness, as it was the Saturday before Easter Sunday and awaiting the ‘Light’ at midnight mass, so the Chapterhouse was closed. Well worth a visit.

Next: Lunch, wandering and the Bargello

OReilly

Saturday April 19th : Lunch and the Bargello

Time for lunch, so I retraced my steps to il Giova. It is a small, neighbourhood restaurant with about 10 tables (24 people?), and that lunchtime about four of the tables were occupied.

I ordered a glass of house red (very good) and a bottle of water as I perused the menu, which was in Italian. I could make out most of it, and the owner translated the occasional word I couldn’t. The menu is very meat-based, so not an ideal choice of restaurant for a vegetarian. I ordered a ricotta/spinach stuffed ravioli with truffle oil to start, followed by what we could call a ‘rib-eye’ (I think?) as the main course, with a mushroom topping.

I had come prepared for a long lunch - I brought my iPad loaded with the second series of the Walking Dead. As soon as I took my iPad out, the owner gave me the wifi details, which was unexpected but welcome, so I was able to get on-line. The Senora, who speaks excellent English, quizzed me on what I was watching. I was embarrassed to tell her, as I should have been watching Fellini, but she responded –‘The zombies, my daughter loves that!’. Jeez, talk about the Global Village .

The starter was delicious, if a bit too large – half would have sufficed. I ordered another glass of red as I waited for the main course, and watched my series, as the rain continued to pour down outside. The steak was large, perfectly cooked for me (rare-medium) and delicious. The mushroom topping was ill-advised, and a bit too strong. Again, the portion was a little too large.

It was still raining hard, so a good excuse for another glass of wine, and another episode of The Walking Dead. This was my first two-hour, three-glass of wine lunch in a long time, and I was enjoying the decadence of it. When the rain finally eased up, I asked for the bill, and it was accompanied by a glass of lemoncello. The bill was ridiculously small for what I had eaten and drunk. I highly recommend this restaurant for good honest food and excellent friendly service.

I was just a tad giddy leaving the restaurant, and needed a long walk. So I wandered around the streets between Santa Croce and the Historic Centre. Many shops were decked out for Easter, and the locals were doing last-minute shopping. Santa Croce is a really nice neighbourhood, and I am sure their antecedents, going back to the middle-ages, probably engaged in similar rituals. There is a sense of continuity in these streets.

It looked like rain again, and, as luck would have it, I found myself outside the Bargello (have been before, but always worth another visit). There were no line-ups, so I bought my ticket and entered.
http://www.museumsinflorence.com/mus..._bargello.html
http://www.polomuseale.firenze.it/

In addition to the wonderful standing collection, there was an added bonus of an exhibition of Baccio Bandinelli and his contemporaries. I had never heard of him before.

Here is a very scathing review of him in the Guardian (often very pompous):
http://www.theguardian.com/artanddes...aissance-italy

And another that is quite positive, a forgotten artist of the Renaissance:
http://www.tickitaly.com/blog/2014/03/2363/

Who am I to judge? Make up your own mind. I enjoyed it, there a few other artists thrown into the mix, and the room is well laid out and documented.

Then on to the main exhibitions, floor by floor., and I visited every room. You must give this museum half a day. I explored it all, until I was footsore. Highlights for me on this visit were as follows:

Michelangelo’s Bacchus: It is such an amusing statue of the inebriated god, and the wicked little brat behind him sucking on the grapes. After consuming three glasses of wine and a lemoncello, I was simpatico with Bacchus.

The Ivories Room: All wonderful, but seek out the Byzantine pieces in particular - the Diptych of Adam and St. Paul is quite extraordinary. Work of this calibre was not seen again until the Renaissance IMO.

The Donatello Hall: I had seen Donatello’s David before, and marvelled at it. However, I had never had the opportunity to compare it to Michelangelo’s David, which I had seen the day before. Well, comparison is probably unfair, but I could not resist. Donatello’s David is certainly beautiful, but does not have the machismo, charisma and quiet arrogance of Michelangelo’s David. The ringlets and silly hat does not help – its like Auntie Gladys is in her garden to dead-head her petunias. I am being very wicked and unkind, and apologize. Donatello’s David is divine, and the whole gallery is breath-taking.

The Giovanni della Robbia Rooms: It took me a while to appreciate the mastery of the della Robbias, as it is a bit too garish for my taste. However, now I am a devotee. I particularly loved the Portrait of a Young Girl.

The Verrocchio Room: Noblewomen with Bouquet. The hands, the lace, the way the dress falls on the body – the fabric must be the finest of silk or tissue muslin (was it called Swiss Lawn?). It is one of those marble statues that you feel compelled to touch. How can an artist convey movement of fabric in marble?

It was a great visit, and I had completely sobered up. It was raining again when I left the Bargello, and I made my way back toward P. Sante Croce to pick up the bus back to the hotel. I had sufficient time to catch the 1730, but was thinking about doing something else, and catching the 1830 bus.

As I stood in P. Sante Croce under my umbrella, I took out my guidebook, opened up the map, and a pigeon SHAT on it. Well, I often believe that there is such a thing as divine intervention, and clearly a pigeon was sending me a very definite message to get back to the hotel. I walked to the Hotel Lucchesi in time to pick up the 1730 bus to my hotel.

That night, as I was thinking about my planning for the rest of the trip, I realized that I should not be so rigid. Today had been a great success, as I had worked within the confines imposed by the weather. The weather over the next few days would alternate between sunny and rainy, and I had to adjust accordingly.

Here are some pictures of the day:
https://florence19042014.shutterfly.com/pictures/8

Tomorrow: A gloriously sunny Easter Sunday, a parade, and an exploding cart.

latedaytraveler

Hi O'Reilly,

Great report with so many details.

"Santa Croce is a really nice neighbourhood, and I am sure their antecedents, going back to the middle-ages, probably engaged in similar rituals. There is a sense of continuity in these streets." I had the same feeling when I visited on a rather drear winter day some years ago.

Loved the description of your leisurely lunch and later observation at the Bargello Museum that"After consuming three glasses of wine and a lemoncello, I was simpatico with Bacchus." Touche!

Nice pics too. Noticed an Irish pub among them - for future reference...

cigalechanta

A very detailed report that I am loving.
Enjoyed your photos. I would have liked to buy those two monkeys.

annhig

Ger - i am so pleased that you enjoyed il Giova - and spent so long there!

lovely pics too.

sarge56

OMG- I keep waiting for a pigeon to target me, but (thank heavens!), it has never happened. I hope it was a laminated map. haha

I love your descriptions of the art you like/don't like. I, too, marvel at sculpture with fabric that surely "moves". It is mind-boggling sometimes!

TDudette

Wonderful, OReilly!

I think that 'lawn' is an Egyptian cotton. Can't think of the origin though. At one time (perhaps yet?) Egyptian cottons were considered the best in the world.

Just googled it and wiki suggests 'lawn' comes from town Laon and that the fabric was originally linen.

OReilly

Sunday April 20th – Easter Sunday.

Below is a link for the photos for todayare photos from the day.

https://florence20042014.shutterfly.com/pictures/9


There were two potential highlights for the day – the ‘Scoppio del Carro’ and meeting up with Paula (Sarge56) at the P. Michelangelo.

The Procession and the "Scoppio del Carro" blowout of the chariot ceremony.

It was a gloriously sunny day, and after the poor weather the day before, I was enthusiastic to explore Florence in its finery.

I took the hotel bus into the Florence and made my way to the Palazzo della Signoria. I had missed the beginning of the Parade (it must start at around 9am), because I had not done my research, so don’t let this happen to you. Although I knew about the exploding chart in from of the Duomo, I was not aware that the procession started from there, so I only caught the tail-end of the procession, but it was delightful all the same!

The cart, built in 1622 and standing two to three stories high, is pulled by a pair of oxen decorated in garlands through the streets of Florence to the Duomo. The chariot is accompanied by a historical parade of locals in Renaissance costumes, preceded by drummers and flags, each flag representing different districts of the city. Apparently there is flag-tossing, but I missed that . The participants looked as if they had stepped straight out of a Renaissance painting; when stripped of the vestiges of the modern world, they looked identical to their ancestors (note: In my research, I discovered there is a ‘Tuscan gene’ (not the technical term obviously) so many of these people are directly descended from the original tribes that settled this area in the 12th century B.C. – talk about continuity!). I followed the procession through the streets, which did not seem that crowded and was soon to discover that was because, at this stage, the cart was in place outside the Duomo, and the crowds assembling. But I did get to meet the gorgeous white bulls, as you can see from the photos. On to the Duomo.

I was somewhat concerned about the crowds that might be around the square, and was proven right. As I approached the Duomo, I got caught up in a surge of people that pushed me onwards, and was unable to extract myself. I could barely breathe because of the crush. People were standing on benches, and all I could see was the back of their knees. I tried to fight my way out, as it would be impossible to see anything from where I was, but was like a salmon swimming up-stream in mating season. I was getting panicked and hot and sweaty. After getting particularly aggressive in my pushing, I finally broke free. The Duomo was on my left, so I bolted for the side door, and inside the relative quiet and cool of the church, there were people flocking around the main aisle in preparation for the ceremony. I took up a reasonable position, where I could not see the entire cart, but behaviour was reasonably civilized compared to the outside.

The ceremony started with a procession from the church of priests and the bishop to the forecourt. There were prayers and hymns, in the best Catholic tradition, for a long time. Then a long procession back into the church, the religious and the civil authorities of the city, some more prayers, and then the games began!

I couldn’t see this, but apparently, a priest lights a fuse, attached to a small papier-mache figurine, representing a dove, which runs along a wire inside the church, to ignite the chariot, and the fireworks begin. I saw the dove flying down the wire. The fireworks continued for ages , and the was a truly a spectacular sight, even with my limited view.

Another Fodorite, in the audience outside, had a better view than I, so she should jump on this thread and describe her view of it – come on Paula (Sarge56)!

The ceremony is such an extraordinary fusion of the Pagan and the Catholic, and some form of it was probably celebrated long before the dawn of Christianity. I love watching ceremonies that date back to our ancient pagan roots, adapted by Christianity, and used for their purposes. For example, in Ireland, the cult of the Virgin Mary and Saint Brigid was strong, because it replaced the worship of the pagan Goddesses, and former worship sites for these Goddesses were ‘re-labelled’ as shrines to both. The ceremony is also a testament to the Florentine precarious (at the time) celebration of the religious and the profane, as in the pursuit of money.

This experience is ‘up there’ as one of my favourite travel experiences, but I did not plan well. For future reference, for those if you that are organized, I suggest getting to Palazzo della Signoria for 0830 to enjoy the organization of the procession, then follow along. At some point, leave the procession, and get to the Duomo to secure a good position to see the fireworks, either inside or outside. Sarge56, as an ex-Marine and a tall person, found a good position outside, and stood her ground, and had a better view than I had. As a short person, I’d prefer a good position inside the Duomo.

Next: Wandering, lunch, Oltrano and P. Michelangelo.

OReilly

bookchick: You are a great writer , and you should write us a story about your experiences living in Florence for a year - How wonderful that must have been. I will check out the Botticelli story - many thanks.

Latedaytraveler:
<good reminder for any traveller: Weather got better and worse, but all was good, because I decided to be flexible with my itinerary.>. Yes, you are right. When travelling, we have to make some difficult decisions, and accept that we must be flexible, and perhaps miss highlights that we thought un-missible, and just make the best of it, and perhaps explore an even better alternative journey. It was an interesting lesson for me.

<After consuming three glasses of wine and a lemoncello, I was simpatico with Bacchus.>. OK, I admit I was a little inebriate, which only made my appreciation of Bacchus a more ‘personal’ experience .

Mimi: I have a particular treat for you in a few days – a visit to the Guicci museum, with pictures. I was thinking of you and my sister F, because I know you would both adore it.

Annhig: Thanks for the recommendation – it was a perfect place to spend a couple of hours, and the food was really good

Sarge56: According to my Nana, old Dublin wisdom said if a bird shat on you, it was good luck, and generally meant money in your future. I got back to learn that my company are giving out bonuses this year. Please jump on the thread re your experience of the exploding cart – you had a much better view than I had.

TDuddette: Thank you. I think Egyptian cotton for sheets are still considered the best. There was a particular muslin fabric, I think coming from India at the time, very fine and delicate, that was mimicked in Europe later.

Best regards ... Ger

YvonneT

Thank you so much for the detailed report, and the many very useful links. You've given me a head start on planning for next year!

Yvonne

latedaytraveler

Hi O'Reilly,

What great pics and descriptions of Easter morning in Florence. Enjoyed the familiar backdrops like the Palazzo della Signoria and the Duomo. Loved the costumes and pageantry. And let's not forget the bedecked white bulls (?) oxen (?)

"The participants looked as if they had stepped straight out of a Renaissance painting; when stripped of the vestiges of the modern world, they looked identical to their ancestors." Touche.

Obviously you secured a good seat in the Duomo to get such great closeup shots. I will share your photos with a few dear friends who love Florence.

Look forward to more...

TDudette

Nice shots and enjoyable TR, OReilly.

"The ceremony is such an extraordinary fusion of the Pagan and the Catholic, and some form of it was probably celebrated long before the dawn of Christianity." Don't quote me, but I think the first church leaders did incorporate pagan practices.

sarge56

Ger, thanks for the props! If I'd known the bird "shat" would get me some $, I'd have volunteered long ago! hahah

I will give a thorough description and have pictures and video to share of the "Scoppio del Carro" in my trip report. I hope to have it done this weekend. (I had over 400 photos I had to sift through and tag, so a bit of a chore.)

For your fans, I'll just confide that getting to the Piazza del Duomo by 9am should garner you a spot at the barricade. However, as you stated, the "crush" starts around 9:30, and you must be prepared to a) stand your ground and b) stand- period- for over 2 hours.

The procession of young men in period costume showed up in the Piazza del Duomo almost precisely at 9:30. The actual "explosion of the cart" commences at 11am. In between, there is much pomp and circumstance, including the cardinal's blessing of the crowd and firemen applying safety measures for the event.

When my TR is posted, I'll (with your permission) float back here and provide a link.

You're a hoot and I hope you'll come visit me in Texas soon!

Paula

PS My taxi driver in Florence (for a trip up to Sal Mineato) assured me that the "Scoppio del Carro" was deeply rooted in religious culture in Florence and dated back at least 600 years. I now have a curiosity to do more research on this event to find out exactly how/when it actually started.

sarge56

Hey, Ger, are you coming back to finish your TR???

OReilly

Hi Paula:

Sorry, my trip report was interrupted by a business trip to Belgium, followed by a weekend in Paris .

I am now up to my ears with a client, on-site every day this week, which is impeding my opportunity to update the report.

I intend to finish it at the weekend.

best regards ... Ger