cigalechanta

now, I'm hungry !

OReilly

Sunday 26th: 1st Arr. : Au Pied de Chochon

Lunch:
http://www.pieddecochon.com/?utm_sou...tm_campaign=PC

We were in the area, it was on my list, I had not booked anything, it was 1400 and we had to pick up our bags from the hotel at 1630 for our train from Gard Du Nord.

Truthfully, I would have preferred to bring C to L’Ange 20 for lunch, but logistics did not allow this.

Au Pied de Chochon is a Parisian institution, loved and hated, in equal measure, by both locals and tourists. But, it was there, and we were there, and it had table, and we both wanted a big slab of cow and chips.

Starter: None
Main: Steak (cooked medium rare) and chips. Simples! Steak was great, as it should be for 35 Euros!
Wine: A very good red, ordered by C.

It Cost: About 75 Euros

Satisfaction Level: Lovely décor, great location. Service was marginal. Food was good, but way overpriced. There is nothing special about this restaurant at all IMO - they are trading on their name and former reputation. I have been there, and I would not go back.

I would much rather give my trade to restaurants such as L’Ange 20.

Here ends the food section of my trip report.

Regards … Ger

Belinda

Interesting about L'Ange for lunch on Sunday. I hadn't thought about that. Will have ma petit-fille and her maman in Paris next Sunday so will book that! Merci!

OReilly

Belinda: I wish our paths had crossed

Belinda

One of these days!

annhig

Just found this Ger and I'm glad I did! Not sure when I'll be able to get back to Paris but when I do, I'll know where I want to eat.

looking forward to reading about the rest of the trip, particularly how you managed the buses - it is heartening that there was someone else who has visited Paris on numerous occasions and hadn't yet got on a bus. as another Paris bus-virgin, I need to learn from you.

OReilly

Ann, I was a 'bus virgin' in London for years - I just took Taxis!


A kind foderite pointed me to RATP website, I downloaded the app to my phone, and I was hooked.

Their bus system is brilliant! AND, you can still buy the tickets from local tobacco shops, and even use cash on the bus. So much easier for visitors than our Oyster Card.

http://www.ratp.fr/en/

OReilly

Saturday 18th February: Rambling around the Latin Quarter

“He who contemplates the depths of Paris is seized with vertigo. Nothing is more fantastic. Nothing is more tragic. Nothing is more sublime.” Victor Hugo

A two-hour train journey from London, and I am in another universe. The architecture and the light is so different between the two capitals, the former is familiar solid and sober, the latter is foreign, tumultuous and always exotic.

I arrived at 1130 on the Eurostar, grabbed a taxi. It was a glorious sunny day, as we drove from Gard du Nord to my hotel in the 5th Arr. It always happens to me when I arrive in Paris: My heart begins to beat that bit faster, from excitement and anticipation. It is both an old familiar love and an exciting new one.

Room was not ready, so I stored my luggage and set out exploring the area.

Here are the photos from the day:
pix.sfly.com/QSCwc-9H

I headed down to Rue Mouffetard, a very lively market street, offering an abundance of produce: wine, vegetables, seafood, fowl, charcuterie, cheeses. It has a very casual and easy-going atmosphere – shoppers going about their daily business, not a tourist side-show. If I were thinking of relocating to Paris, I think this street and area would be high on my list.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rue_Mouffetard

http://www.rue-mouffetard.com/market.html

I promised myself to visit somewhere today that I had never visited before. The choice was easy: It was just 15 minutes’ walk to the Jardin des Plantes.

http://www.jardindesplantes.net/

Probably not the most exciting place to be in February. Yes, the gardens must be glorious in spring and summer, but this day, the Orchards were blooming inside: There was such an amazing display of colour in the greenhouses.

I walked along the Quai to Les Bouquinistes restaurant for a late lunch
http://www.lesbouquinistes.com/

I had downloaded ‘Paris Walks’ to my phone. A series of guided walks through Paris, which I have used before.

After lunch, I took the ‘Paris Walk’ tour through Rue de la Huchette
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rue_de_la_Huchette

Very interesting history, but I am so effing glad I am not staying in the area! If you are over 25, you may want to avoid staying in a hotel in this area.

It was a 20 minute walk back to my hotel. I wandered through Rue Mouffetard again on my way to the hotel. I really like this street.

I was a bit footsore, and I had only four hours sleep the night before, and I needed to unpack.

Back at the hotel, I unpacked, showered, crawled into bed and started watching an appropriate mini-series on Netflix: Marseilles, staring Gérard Depardieu

http://www.imdb.com/title/tt4003966/?ref_=nv_sr_2

Bedar

You did well in Chartres. We all found l'Esprit Gourmand to be pleasant, but the food was tasteless.

margo_oz

I'm following along and noting the restaurant recommendations for my end of year trip.

I was converted to the bus on my last trip to Paris when my knees finally objected strongly to the metro. Bloody brilliant they are!

vanne

I'm enjoying your report -- I too am planning to give the bus a try on my trip this May. Also have Jardin des Plantes on my list this time. Plan to try some of your restaurant choices, particularly l'Ange 20.
Thanks for sharing!

Scootoir

Ger, I am enjoying your report and the restaurant reviews. Bookmarking for our trip to Rouen & Paris in June. Our knees will likely object to the Metro this trip so we may have to get brave and try the bus.

Nikki

Aahh.

annhig

Ann, I was a 'bus virgin' in London for years - I just took Taxis!>>

now London buses are something that I got to know about, especially the no 11 which when they used to have the open platform at the back, I leapt on and off many a time.

Loving your TR which I will definitely be trying to emulate one day.

gomiki

Ger, I am loving this report! And it's timely as I will be there in a month. We also love Rue Mouffetard and stay there when we visit Paris.

Perhaps we will do the bus more this time. I am a Metro rat. It's so easy (and great exercise).

Looking forward to more!

OReilly

Sunday 19th February: Morning Wandering around the Latin Quarter, St Germain des Pres

Sunday dawned, cold but sunny, and I was off on my rambling early. Here are the pictures of my morning walk.

pix.sfly.com/oHTZvnUU

The Pantheon is located 5 minutes’ walk from the hotel, and I headed there first, as I had never been before.
http://www.pantheonparis.com/

Wikepedia: Originally built as a church dedicated to St. Genevieve and to house the reliquary châsse containing her relics but, after many changes, now functions as a secular mausoleum containing the remains of distinguished French citizens. It is an early example of neo-classicism, with a façade modelled on the Pantheon in Rome, surmounted by a dome that owes some of its character to Bramante's Tempietto. Following the revolution, the National Constituent Assembly, ordered that the building be changed from a church to a mausoleum for the interment of great Frenchmen’

It is an impressive building, inside and out, and contains some rather extraordinary secular statuary, both good and bad. Well worth a visit as it is a ‘church-like’ monument to France’s secularism.

Walking the Latin Quarter
As I said above, I had downloaded ‘Paris Walks’ from Audible. It offers four walks through Paris, providing some very interesting anecdotes and observations on the areas:
• St. Julian de Pauvre (Latin Quarter)
• La Huchette (Latin Quarter)
• St. Germain des Pres
• Place des Voges


I started my walk at Notre Dame, intending to spend some time in the church. However, mass was in progress, and it felt disrespectful to the worshippers to wander around as a tourist. There was a full contingent attending the mass, and many, many more tourist, taking picture and making noise. It really did not seem right. On my trip to Rome, the churches were closed to tourists during the times mass was said, which I believe it is as it should be.

I walked toward St. Julian de Pauvre, starting at the Rue de la Bûcherie and Rue Saint Jacques (the starting point for the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela in Galicia) and taking in the Church of St. Julian de Pauvre (now a Greek Orthodox Church) and Rue Hotel de Colbert. What I love about this guided tour is that it makes you look at buildings, important to the history of Paris, that you might otherwise miss, and the antidotes are priceless.

Here are some links to the more important sites:
Rue Saint Jacques: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rue_Saint-Jacques,_Paris
Church of St. Julian de Pauvre: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre
Rue Hotel de Colbert: https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rue_de...%B4tel-Colbert

The next walk was in Saint Germain des Pres, starting at the church, so I made my way there using my trusty iPhone app, to which I have become addicted, as I can’t read a map.

The walk to Saint Germain des Pres was delightful – Is there anything better than a walk through Paris on a sunny Sunday morning? I walked through Rue Saint-André des Arts and Rue de Buci – marvellous stuff to see. I particularly loved Rue de Buci: https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rue_de_Buci,

The walk Saint Germain des Pres walk starts outside the church.

I laughed when I saw the iconic restaurant, Les Deux Magots. On my first trip to Paris, as a teenager, myself and my friends had a drink there. We were starving, living on bread and cheese, as Paris was SO expensive for us, coming from Dublin. Someone in the group, who had been to Paris before (with his VERY wealthy American parents!), suggested a drink there. Holy Mary Mother of God, ONE drink was almost my entire daily budget. I did not really drink, so had no idea what to have. Someone suggested Pernod, so I did. It was a lovely experience that I will never forget. There were circus-type performers in the square, including a dancing bear. At least I think there was – perhaps I was imaging it, due the effects of the Pernod. I remember we were confused that such a very posh establishment should be called ‘The Two Maggots (worms) .

The Two Maggots : http://www.lesdeuxmagots.fr/en/
The Church of Saint Germain des Pres: https://www.eglise-saintgermaindespres.fr/

After an interesting visit to the church, I meandered around the area. It is gorgeous and ‘well-heeled’, with lots of high-end interior designer shops, far in excess of my personal budget.

Rue Bonaparte: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rue_Bonaparte

On this trip, I was listening to my Audible book, Napoleon the Great, by Andrew Roberts: https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/cka/Napol...leon+bonaparte

Apparently, the definitive biography, and at times, hard going.

Rue Bonaparte is the only street in Paris named after Napoleon, which is strange IMO, considering his contribution to, and patronage of, the development of modern science, law, education, archaeology etc. However, his battles continue to be celebrated in Paris street and site names (Arc De Triomphe, Gare Austerlitz, Avenue Kléber, Avenue d'Iena .. and many more.). Yet, he is only remembered by this obscure street.

It was getting late, and I was getting hungry. I made an on-line booking for L’Ange 20, grabbed a taxi, and headed to the Marais.
I had an absolutely delicious lunch, and then headed out for an exploration of the Marais.

Next: Afternoon walk through the Marias.

TDudette

Sigh.

OReilly

Next: Afternoon walk through the Marias.

After a very satisfying lunch at L’Ange 20, I walked to the Place des Voges to begin the Marais walk.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Le_Marais
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Place_des_Vosges

Here are my pictures:
pix.sfly.com/Nbn62_OF


There was rarely a visit to Paris when I did not visit Place des Voges. I think it is a perfect square, perfect proportions, and perfect mixture of colours the brick red (BTW, most is just painted brick, not real brick) and the butter-coloured stone.

It has a special place in my heart. I stumbled upon it on my first trip as a teenager, when it was still a bit dilapidated, but in full flight of gentrification, and I have watched it change over the years, to blossom into what it once was it was – palatial accommodation for the very wealthy. The retail outlets are now exclusively very high-end art galleries and fashion designers.
Sunny Sunday, the square was filled with families and restaurants were full of customers.

The Paris Walks audio guide brings you around the square, and tells you about who lived in each house, and dishes the dirt on the scandals, and there were MANY scandal. At its height, before the Revolution, the Place des Voges, then known as Place Royale, was a very naughty place indeed, where the aristocracy engaged in “Les Liaisons Dangereuses”, frequently, with multiple partners, and without censure.

Off then to the surrounding streets and into the Jewish Quarter.

Some information to help you with your planning.

http://www.parismarais.com/en/visit-...es-vosges.html

http://www.parismarais.com/en/visit-...h-quarter.html

http://www.goodmorningparis.fr/blog/...area-in-paris/

https://www.discoverwalks.com/blog/a...-neighborhood/

It is an incredibly lively, multicultural area. Sunday afternoon is not the best time to explore, as the area gets very crowded.

I suggest exploring on an early morning during the week to really get an appreciation of the area, and add a visit to the Picasso Museum: http://www.museupicasso.bcn.cat/ and the MEP http://www.mep-fr.org/english/.

The Carnavalet Museum, one of my personal favourites, is unfortunately closed: Le musée Carnavalet est fermé pour rénovation jusqu’à fin 2019. http://www.carnavalet.paris.fr/en/mu...marais-quarter

Anyway, it was too crowded for me to enjoy, so I headed back to the hotel, which was about a 40 minute walk, and it was a lovely walk.

I made way back across to Ile Saint Louis, and treated myself to a double scope of vanilla ice cream from Berthillon to sustain me on my journey.

It was a really good day – I could not have hoped for better.

Tomorrow: A Medieval day: St Denis and the Cluny Museum.

OReilly

Thank you all for your encouraging feedback. I am determined to finish this report!

For the 'bus virgins' - please GO with it. If you download the app to your phone, it is SO simple to find your way around. Also, there are maps at each bus stop that explain the route, and an electronic board telling you when the next bus is due and where its going. On-board, there is also a map of the route, and electronic feed indicating the next stop. London has similar, but I think Paris has excelled. You know what I also liked?: When I got on the bus, I was greeted by the bus drivers, and I greeted them back, and when I got off, I could say 'Thank you'. When I do this in London, most fellow-travellers think I am a bit of a nut. For those of you with knee problems, don’t forget that all buses are ‘mobility friendly’, and the Parisians are very accommodating at helping if you ask. Good manners prevail in Paris .

A bit of technology advice. Buy a portable power charger. I use my iPhone for:

• GPS directions, as I am incapable of reading a map, which sucks the battery life massively
• The bus/ underground
• Listening to Audible.com – books on tapes
• Watching movies from Netflicks
• Taking photos inside, museums, galleries and churches

As you know, that means the battery is generally dead early in the day, before I have an opportunity to charge. I now travel with a portable charger, and it has made all the difference. I keep it permanently plugged in. I bought mine in TXMaxx for about £20.

Here is an article that describes various options for the iPhone:
http://www.independent.co.uk/extras/...-10176373.html

Best regards … Ger

taconictraveler

Ger: I am loving this, though I confess you make me want to eat the screen on my desktop! Your food descriptions are tops

And you are not a "gormless twit." though I confess I love the appellation!!

And your are a very good photographer.

I never used buses in Paris (7 or 8 trips) until the very last trip, 1.5 years ago, and I reveled in my wanderings across Paris on the #69 - Buses are it!!