Ger’s Long Weekend in Paris April 2019

Apr 13th, 2019, 11:03 AM
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Ger’s Long Weekend in Paris April 2019

Last weekend, I spent four glorious days in Paris. Here is a short report with photos.

I flew Thursday evening from my consulting job in Sweden, arriving late at Orly. Last time I landed in Orly I was 19 years old on my first trip to Paris, with my University class. I was a little excited to see it again.

What a bloody awful dump Orly is now!

I had booked one night in Hotel Vieux Marais last minute and arrived very late.

https://www.vieuxmarais.com/en/

I assume that is why I got what must be the worst room in the hotel - at least I hope it is the worst hotel room! It was very clean, and the bathroom, which was actually a wet room, was newly renovated. However, the toilet flushing mechanism was broken, and they had substituted a chopstick. The room was depressing, looked onto a tiny dark internal courtyard, and unfortunately reminded me of the room I stayed in when I was 19 when I could afford nothing better.

Not the most auspicious start to my weekend for sure, but it was after midnight and I was completely knackered having started the work-day at 0730. I collapsed into bed, hoping that my next hotel, Hotel de la Bretonnerie, would be an improvement. It certainly could not be worse!

************************************************** **********************

Friday Morning

I was up very early to escape the depressing hotel, and walked to Hotel de la Bretonnerie, where I was booked in for three nights, and dropped my luggage. It certainly looked more promising

. https://www.hotelparismaraisbretonnerie.com/en/

My agenda for the day was:

YSL Museum: New Exhibit – The Mondrian Revolution Walk around 16th Arr.

Lunch with Belinda at la Table d’Eugène

King Tut exhibit



************************************************** *

Friday Morning

First on my agenda for the day was a visit to the YSL museum to see the new exhibit. I took the bus 72 from Hotel de Ville across to Trocadero. What a great bus ride along the Seine on a sunny morning.

I stopped for breakfast at Le Winston, which has a great view to the Palais de Chaillot, and had an excellent omelette and salad.

www.le-wilson.fr

On to the YSL exhibition:

https://museeyslparis.com/

Yes, it was wonderful – an homage to the “Mondrian Revolution”

For its new display, the Musée Yves Saint Laurent Paris will devote a considerable part of its exhibition space to the autumn-winter 1965 collection and examine its legacy beyond the history of fashion. “Revolutionary” was how the press described this collection, which drew attention for its modern, avant-garde style. These dresses would subsequently alter the connection between fashion and art by transforming a painting into an animate work of art. By asserting his desire to confront the principal artists of modernism, Yves Saint Laurent helped to popularize the Dutch painter, who was not widely known at the time. The Mondrian dresses were so successful that they were heavily copied, especially in the United States. These iconic dresses have now become a part of popular culture and have been reinterpreted by contemporary artists, some of whose works, for instance those of Nicolas Saint Grégoire, will be exhibited as part of the display.

Here are the photos:

https://qq0u.app.link/fkzyqElhRV

However, there were less exhibits on display than when I visited in July 2018, so I will add those photos from that visit: https://qq0u.app.link/4aZA7BShRV



************************************************** **********

Friday Afternoon:

Before lunch, I had a walk through the 16th, visiting Rue de la Jean Fontaine to see Hector Guimard most emblematic building in Paris.

Here are the photos:

https://qq0u.app.link/bgnRttzjRV

Then lunch with Belinda was wonderful, as always. Its great to have such a charming friend in Paris that is living the dream! We arranged to meet later for a drink in the Marais.

The lunch:

Accueil - La Table d'EugèneLa Table d'Eugène | Restaurant gastronomique

Tutankhamun Exhibition

https://expo-toutankhamon.fr/en/

I have been passionate about Egyptology since a child, so this was clearly not to be missed.

Exhibition is very well designed, excellent explanation of the history, with some key pieces very well described in English.

However …. I spent an entire day in the Cairo Museum, and this is not close to the collection of treasures there, nor the one that went on tour in the 1970s.

The exhibition is worth visiting if you are in Paris, but not worth a special visit to Paris just to see it.

It is also hugely over-subscribed, so there are dozens of people huddling around small exhibits, elbowing their way in to see. Suffice it to say that the French do not understand how to behave in a polite way to ensure that all have a pleasant experience.

I recommend a visit, but limit your expectations regarding what you will see. Also, you must book first ticket in the morning to avoid the hoards. Here are my photos which clearly show the limited exhibits on show:

https://qq0u.app.link/dIOMO3mmRV

Friday Evening

I took the Metro back to the Hotel de la Bretonnerie and checked in to Room 15.

https://www.hotelparismaraisbretonnerie.com/en/

Yes, I was very satisfied. The room was large and had good light. I had a bathroom with bath. Recommended by Flygirl, I would also highly recommend this hotel in the Marais.

Belinda and I met up at Monsieur Henri for wine and cheese and a good chat!

Next: https://www.facebook.com/monsieurhenri

Next: Saturday: A day trip to Troyes
OReilly64 is offline  
Apr 13th, 2019, 11:45 AM
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"It is also hugely over-subscribed, so there are dozens of people huddling around small exhibits, elbowing their way in to see. Suffice it to say that the French do not understand how to behave in a polite way to ensure that all have a pleasant experience."

It was the same in L.A. I ended my website report with, "My one strong recommendation is to reserve the earliest entrance time so you can beat the large crowds. Remember … He gave his life for tourism, but you don’t have to!"

maitaitom is online now  
Apr 13th, 2019, 01:52 PM
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<<I assume that is why I got what must be the worst room in the hotel - at least I hope it is the worst hotel room! It was very clean, and the bathroom, which was actually a wet room, was newly renovated. However, the toilet flushing mechanism was broken, and they had substituted a chopstick.>>

Lol Ger, I read the hotel's own description of their rooms on their website but nowhere did I see any mention of a chopstick-operated loo! I wonder why they omit it. Glad that Hotel no 2 was so much better.

Shame about the King Tut exhibition being so full. I remember being taken with our school to the chinese exhibition in London sometime in the '70s but not the Tutankhamun one. Not sure why. I won't be beating a path to the doors of this one. The YSL is gorgeous, thanks for posting all those lovely photos.

looking forward to more!
annhig is offline  
Apr 13th, 2019, 03:08 PM
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I’m enjoying your report. I like reading about places in Paris that would be new to me.
TPAYT is offline  
Apr 13th, 2019, 08:29 PM
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I will have two days in Paris in May, and I had been toying with the idea of going to see the King Tut exhibit, but I think I will give it a pass after reading your description. Thanks for checking it out for the rest of us!

(I don’t suppose you are going back in May, are you? Just wishful thinking.)
Nikki is online now  
Apr 14th, 2019, 12:05 AM
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Thank you for another wonderful trip report!
cafegoddess is offline  
Apr 14th, 2019, 12:12 AM
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It was a pleasure to be part of your long weekend! I look forward to the next one.

Nikki, sorry you and I are crossing paths! I'll be in CA in 2 weeks and you are there now. Then you'll be in Paris while I'm away.
Belinda is offline  
Apr 14th, 2019, 06:31 AM
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Ger, get trip report. As I have said you are so lucky to be able to zip over to Paris for the weekend. Looking forward to the rest of the report.
AGM_Cape_Cod is offline  
Apr 14th, 2019, 07:01 AM
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Originally Posted by AGM_Cape_Cod View Post
Ger, get trip report. As I have said you are so lucky to be able to zip over to Paris for the weekend. Looking forward to the rest of the report.
Yes, I miss the days when we lived in Europe and could just drive across for a long weekend. Am reliving my Paris days and awaiting the next installment of your TR...👍
geetika is offline  
Apr 14th, 2019, 08:14 AM
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Thanks for your feedback!

Tom: "He gave his life for tourism, [color=left=#323232] but you don’t have to!" - great line! I hope to someday meet up with you and Tracy on our travels. I thought of you when I went on a Church marathon - Maitaitom would love this I said to myself

TPAYT: Thank you. I have been to Paris about a hundred times, but I still find more to explore. My love for it never fades.

Hi Nikki: I will be in Puglia in May, so unfortunately not. I think you also visited King Tut in Cairo, so don't think it is worth your time to visit, although I have to say that the experience has been very well crafted. However, the crowds are off-putting and the exhibits rather small.

Cafegodess: Thanks. You are always so kind.

Belinda: Always a pleasure to meet up and you always have the best restaurant recommendations. I will probably be back again in the fall.

AGM & geetika: Yes, it is wonderful to be able to travel for long weekends, which is one of the reasons I moved back to Europe.

More later.

Kind regards .. Ger[/color]

OReilly64 is offline  
Apr 14th, 2019, 10:05 AM
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Saturday: A day trip to Troyes

Kerouac inspired this trip, with his glorious photographs of Troyes.

I wanted to escape potential ‘manifestations’ in Paris in Saturday.

On previous trips to Paris, I visited Rouen, Chartres, Provins, as cheap day-trips from Paris (about 20 Euros each way).

I took the 0740 train from Gare de L’Est and arrived in Troyes on a very cold but sunny day at about 0930 and made my way to the Tourist Office , where I picked up a map and Audio Guide. Highly recommended! The Audio Guide and map takes one on a guided tour of the town and provides commentary on the important sites.

Troyes is well worth a visit for those who need to escape Paris.

https://en.tourisme-troyes.com/

Go to Troyes just to see the extraordinary and unique stained-glass windows in the cathedrals and churches – it has the most unique and perfect in France. Go to visit the many streets of wooden buildings, arguably the best in France.



Here are the photos:

https://qq0u.app.link/ED1UZb0ZSV

I had an excellent lunch, a restaurant I highly recommend: Tout Simplement. Excellent food and wine, and they allowed me to speak French. This is important. In most restaurants in Paris, they speak better English than I speak French, but how am I going to learn if they do not let me try!

Tout simplement & L'Annexe | Restaurant ? Bar à vin

It was a great day!
OReilly64 is offline  
Apr 14th, 2019, 11:12 AM
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I'm glad that you enjoyed Troyes. It is not visited all that much by international tourists. In fact, it isn't visited all that much by French tourists, except for the fact that it is the main "outlet center" city in France and people who go there obviously have no interest in the downtown area.
kerouac is offline  
Apr 14th, 2019, 11:13 AM
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What a gem! Lovely trip report, too.
Trophywife007 is online now  
Apr 14th, 2019, 11:47 AM
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DH and I spent a long weekend at Troyes in the mid 80s, long before it became an “outlet center”. Somehow we never made it back again, neither in 2017 when we were in the champagne region nor last summer when we were in Bourgogne. Unfortunately both times Troyes was just a little beyond our tour limits...
geetika is offline  
Apr 14th, 2019, 12:50 PM
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Great TR. thanks for sharing. Troyes sounds interesting. We used to say at Hotel de la Bretonnerie and loved the location and all the different rooms we had. Glad to hear it's still nice.
yestravel is offline  
Apr 14th, 2019, 02:02 PM
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[color=left=#323232]Kerouac [/color]: Your pictures inspired me visit both Troyes and Provins. Thank you. Keep it coming.

Trophywife: Thank you.

geetika: I wish I had visited in the 80s - less tourism.

yestravel: Very happy with the hotel, although I think I am over staying in the Marais at this point. It is too crowded.

Regards … Ger
OReilly64 is offline  
Apr 14th, 2019, 02:12 PM
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Ger, you must be thinking of someone else; I have not been to Cairo. But I still think I will skip King Tut.

Belinda, yes, we are out of sync. I am enjoying your California sunshine now though I will be leaving tomorrow for the land where it may not yet be spring.
Nikki is online now  
Apr 14th, 2019, 03:00 PM
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Sunday: Walking Paris and a Museum visit

I woke early on a cold grey morning.

I was out by 0800 to visit a favourite of mine – Jardins des Plants. Galleries, Gardens, Zoo - Jardin des Plantes

Paris is at least two weeks behind London in terms of blooming, so it was not very exciting, but it was pleasantly quiet, just me and the joggers at that time of the morning.

There were two churches on my itinerary for the day. St. Etienne du Mont and St. Severin.

St. Etienne du Mont is just a short walk from the Pantheon. Mass was in progress, so just peeked in to see a glorious interior that must be revisited. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saint-Étienne-du-Mont

St. Severin has beautiful old and modern stained glass.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saint-Séverin,_Paris

I wandered through the old streets of the Latin Quarter, then made my way across the river to the Rue Rivoli and Musée des Arts Décoratifs.

Here are the photos from my morning walk.


https://qq0u.app.link/thqJ66BlTV

Next: Musée des Arts Décoratifs.
OReilly64 is offline  
Apr 14th, 2019, 03:27 PM
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Sunday : Musée des Arts Décoratifs.

I have visited a dozen times, and today there was an excellent exhibition I wanted to see, as I am passionate about architecture.

There Is an exhibition of the works of Gio Ponti’s work. Amazing! Available until 5th May.

https://madparis.fr/francais/musees/...rchi-designer/

I spent another hour revisiting the other rooms, and was disappointed that the Art Deco rooms were closed that day.

Here are my photos:

https://qq0u.app.link/ebHvBxBnTV
OReilly64 is offline  
Apr 15th, 2019, 04:04 AM
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Great report - thanks for taking the time to share! So nice to be able to put a face with a name now, too!

Paula
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