Ger posting live from Northern Spain
 

Hello all!

It is Saturday night and I am posting from the very lovely Santillana Gil Blas Parador in Cantabria, on the North coast of Spain. I'll write a full trip report when I return, but here are some of the highlights of the last few days.

I flew from Paris to Biarritz on Thursday night, stayed at the local IBIS, picked the car up on Friday morning and headed off to Fuente De. The motorway weaves through the mountain ranges and it is a wonderful drive, with constantly changing scenery.

The drive from the coast to Fuente De rates as one of the most stunning I have ever taken: It varies between pleasantly delightful, as the road makes its way through green pastures and rolling hills, to absolutely stunning, as it follows the river and cuts a violently, swerving path through the gorge; massive mountains of rock on both sides of the road . There was not a moment when I was not overcome by the region's extraordinary power and beauty.

The Parador at Fuente De (3 star) is in the heart of the Picos de Europa, and an excellent venue for hiking (my only hiking was up and down the stairs, to and from the restaurant). I had a very large room, with covered balcony, overlooking the sheer mountain wall behind. I dined in the restaurant that night and slept like the dead after.

Next day, Friday, I took a very long drive around the Picos de Europa. The drive was challenging, and should probably only be attempted by the bravest of drivers or, alternatively, two drivers sharing the load. Total time to and from Fuente De was over five hours, without stops, exceeding speed limits much of the time :). However, I am delight I did it. I ran out of superlatives after the first hour. Words cannot do justice to the astonishing, rugged beauty of this area. There is not one moment on this drive that is ordinary. Each twist and turn on the route reveals yet another stunning view, and the views and landscapes change so often that it drives you forward, with a passion and excitement, to see more and more of it. After over five hours of driving, I was so exhausted when I got back to the Parador, I was too tired to eat and slept for 10 hours!

This morning, Saturday, I drove along the coast to the Parador of Santillana Gil Blas. It was another beautiful drive, but the landscape was quite different. As I drove through the back roads, I was certain I had gotten very, very lost indeed and had ended up in West Cork, Ireland! Honestly, this terrain is almost identical to the best farming land in Ireland. Couple that with the divine weather, it was warm and there was a wonderful cool, gentle breeze blowing in from the ocean, and it is the closest thing to heaven on earth that I have experienced in a long time. I stopped for a few hours at the lovely seaside town of Comillas for lunch and sight-seeing, and paid my respect to Gaudi's little bijoux.

I arrived in Santillana Gil Blas in the late afternoon and, believe me, it lives up to, even exceeds, all the marketing hype. It truly is a beautiful, authentic medieval jewel in a perfect pastoral setting. The parador is well situated in one of the main squares, and my room (small double, large bathroom) looks out on square.

Tomorrow, Sunday, I hope to visit the Altamira Museum, to see replicas of the famous caves and I'll spend some more time exploring this lovely town. Then I will head eastward to St. Jean du Luz in France and stay there for most of next week.

It has been a glorious weekend and, thanks to Maribel, I have discovered yet another beautiful region of Spain.

Regards Ger

Ger, We leave tomorrow for our trip to northern Spain and this has just fueled my excitement! Thank you!!!

You allowed me to re-live a similar trip through your account. Many thanks! Green Spain is definitely one of life's special pleasures. My husband and I drove along those winding roads through the gorges early in the morning in mid-September. Very little traffic at that time of day so we were able to slooowly enjoy the natural grandeaur. I'm so eager to go back!

good to hear from you and happy you are having such a wonderful time. I see more photos in the future :)

Hello, Ger! Glad to hear from you. Everything sounds amazing..looking forward to the photos :)
((F))

Great trip report, Ger! I am what they call a 'white knuckled' driver and as I was heading south thru the Gorge of the rio Deva toward Potes I think I was holding my breath most of the time. We stayed at Hostal Picos de Europa in Potes but went to Fuente De to ride the Cable car up to the peak. My wife was terrified on that, too.

Santander has a Santiago festival just after los SanFermines in Pamplona and before Santiago (25/7). I'm sure they have a Virgen de Carmen festival on the 16th of July: that's when the high-high season begins and prices go up.

Hey Ger!
Sounds wonderful and it's so nice to hear you're having such a fabulous time.
Can't wait to hear the rest.
Have you had any car problems yet?
:D

Ned: By the third time, I was speeding through the gorge like Jacques Villeneuve, but my shoulder ached by the end of the day with all the gear shifting :) I didn't do the cable car as Saturday was heavily overcast and their seemed no point. To be perfectly honest, I was just as glad, as it looked totally terrifying and I don't like heights. I was reading your trip report from Santiago yesterday; on my next trip I am going to start there and work my way eastward.

Kavey: Don't tempt the car Gods. As I was ding that long drive through the Picos, a brief moment of terror passed over me when I thought that if the car broke down I was miles from anywhere! I start my language course tomorrow in Biarritz >:D<

regards Ger

Stormtgirl: Have a lovely trip and I look forward to your trip report when you return. I did not spend long enough in the region to really di it justice.

Schildc1: Its a pity there are so few places to pull over and savour the scenary.

Mimi & Scarlett: I have hundreds of photos already. I'll upload them as soon as I get home next week.

regards Ger

That sounds like the kind of drive we like :-) I look forward to your pics and stories as this trip progresses.

Ger,

Wonderful report! Thanks so much for posting.

I'm in the beginning stages of planning a trip and this area sounds very tempting, but am still recuperating from my husband's driving in Audalusia last year, so am thinking of stricking to trains and vaparettos (we're going to Venice too) this time. (DH suggested I get tranquillers as he thinks his driving is just fine.)

Looking forward to your photos.

Hi GER,

Beautifully written.

Ger - Thank you so much for sharing, and, I'm looking forward to the next installment!
- Sharon

Ger are you travelling or business...wow you have had a few good trips over the last few months. enjoy

S

Great post! Also heped me re-live a very similar trip we took two years ago. We also stayed at the Parador Gil Blas in Santilla and had a delicious lunch at the Gaudi house in Comillas. The architecture was fabulous -- as was the lunch! We were there in April & the weather was cool but it was completely uncrowded. Would love to go again in the summer. Was the beach in Comillas terribly crowded? We also went to St Jean de Luz & visited the Basque area of France. Had one of the best dinners ever at the Relais & Chateaux (Parc Victoria). Lovely setting & the food was delicious. I still remember what I ate -- foie gras & grilled langoustines.
The beach was wide with soft white sand, and though it was a little too cold to go into the water at that time of year, we were lucky to have glorious blue skies. The town was very crowded with tourists & traffic, though, so I imagine it will be mobbed in summer. Anxious to hear how you like it. We drove to Sare (a small quiet Basque town) & then to St Jean Pied de Port, a lovely town on the river Nives. Climbed up the ramparts surrounding the old town to get a view of the surrounding countryside.
Lots of artisan shops - a little touristy, but very tasteful. Have a wonderful time. Wish we were there now.

Uh-oh Buster: It as a spectacular drive and it wore me out!
Artlover: I just don't have the patience or the planning skills needed to do public transportation and I admire those who have the discipline to do it. I also love the ability to change my plans as I feel like it, which is tough to do when you are using public transportation. I can't comment on how easy it is to do this area by public transportation, but I did see a lot of local buses and I would imagine this area is well serviced. Good luck with your planning

Ira: Thanks. How's your planning for the Dordogne going?


Sharon: I'll post the next installment tonight.

Siobhan: yes, I started out with business meetings in Paris and a conference at Eurodisney (I WON'T be posting a trip report on that place :( ). I am spoiling myself this year and am trying to do one long weekend every 4-6 weeks. Its my way of compensating for not living in Europe.

CFW: Thanks for the recommendations ? they are on my list. I was in St. Jean de Luz this afternoon and is was very crowded. I am looking forward to moving to Ainhoa on Wednesday for the last few days of my vacation. I am too used to traveling off-season and having these little gems all to myself. Lucky you dining at the Gaudi house! What was the inside like? I did check out the Park Victoria, but they only had one room left and it was 400 Euros per night, so I passed. Comillas beaches were fairly crowded, as it was a Sunday but the town was almost empty. It was beautifully cool (relatively) considering it was July.

Regards Ger

We'll be in Baiona with a day trip to Santiago de Compostela next week. Have you been there? Any must do's?
Muchas gracias!
M

CFW, did you eat in the room with the collection of cats?

Cigalchanta, I don't remember a room with cats, but then I am not a cat lover. There were a number of small dining rooms. For some reason peach colored walls stick in my mind. Fairly spare & modern but with a certain warmth, like most of Gaudi's style.
Ger, Wow, the prices have really gone up at the Parc Victoria since we were there about two years ago. Also it was off season -- but as I recall we paid about 150 euros and the Euro was worth less then, too. Actually the room was not that nice, thought the grounds were lovely, so you're not missing that much. But I highly recommend the restaurant for dinner, which was delicious!

Ger,

Beautiful report! Thank You. I'm very grateful that a while ago you sent me copy of Maribel's files and I'm now preparing to leave for Spain for a 2 weeks trip that will take me from Salamanca to Bilbao using public transportation!
As you pointed out, it takes a lot of planning and it takes away from being spontaneous. Pls. keep posting.