Ger is planning a trip to Galicia in August – advice welcome
Jun 20th, 2006, 09:20 PM
#26
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Hello Marigross! I remember your wonderful trip report. I will be reading it again for this trip along with CrusLuv’s adventure.
Maribel responded to my first Fodor’s post, when I was planning a trip to Madrid, and subsequently inspired me to explore Extramadura and “Green” Spain. She continues to be the best resource for me to uncover the best Spain has to offer.
mikelg: I only touched the surface of the Basque region on my last visit, but I want to see so much more of this region. During my tour of the region, both French and Spanish sides, I read The Basque History of the World (on audio as I was driving the region). Being Irish, obviously I felt a connection and kinship with the history and culture of the people. I will definitely return sometime very soon and will seek your help. Thanks for the offer! (TBD - a place To Be Determined).
Best regards Ger
Maribel responded to my first Fodor’s post, when I was planning a trip to Madrid, and subsequently inspired me to explore Extramadura and “Green” Spain. She continues to be the best resource for me to uncover the best Spain has to offer.
mikelg: I only touched the surface of the Basque region on my last visit, but I want to see so much more of this region. During my tour of the region, both French and Spanish sides, I read The Basque History of the World (on audio as I was driving the region). Being Irish, obviously I felt a connection and kinship with the history and culture of the people. I will definitely return sometime very soon and will seek your help. Thanks for the offer! (TBD - a place To Be Determined).
Best regards Ger
Jun 21st, 2006, 02:13 AM
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OReilly writes: "Ned, good tip re Santiago on Sunday. Am I right in assuming that it is not TOO hot there even in August?"
Santiago gets much warmer than the coastal areas in Jul & Aug. I have stopped there a half dozen times over the last 10-years: My last trip I went to VilaGarcia de Arousa on the coast for a couple of days and then came into Santiago Saturday PM. It was quite warm: 27C (81F).
I would add an album to Maribel's music recommendations: 'Santiago,' by the Chieftains (w/Carlos Nunez on Bagpipe). Did you know that there's an annual Bagpipe competition in Vigo (Pontevedra) each May?
Your revised itinerary and the rationale for your trip (i.e., Celtic roots) make a visit to Monte Santa Tecla even more important, in my opinion. It's about 30-min from Baiona (down the coast road) and there are several nice restaurants in LaGuardia near the Fishermen's Monument.
Santiago gets much warmer than the coastal areas in Jul & Aug. I have stopped there a half dozen times over the last 10-years: My last trip I went to VilaGarcia de Arousa on the coast for a couple of days and then came into Santiago Saturday PM. It was quite warm: 27C (81F).
I would add an album to Maribel's music recommendations: 'Santiago,' by the Chieftains (w/Carlos Nunez on Bagpipe). Did you know that there's an annual Bagpipe competition in Vigo (Pontevedra) each May?
Your revised itinerary and the rationale for your trip (i.e., Celtic roots) make a visit to Monte Santa Tecla even more important, in my opinion. It's about 30-min from Baiona (down the coast road) and there are several nice restaurants in LaGuardia near the Fishermen's Monument.
Jun 21st, 2006, 02:49 AM
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Maribel, if you will allow it, we would like to receive your unpublished guide to northern Spain as well. It's the one part of Spain that truly intrigues us and that we definitely want to see some day.
Jun 21st, 2006, 11:45 AM
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Hi Ger,
I forgot that I had already sent you the original file, including the rec of Monte Tecla as a "must see" day trip from the Baiona Parador. I'm updating the file a bit and will send the updated version along.
NED,
Forgot the Chieftains' "Santiago", with its last track recorded at the Dublin pub in Vigo. It's one of my favorites. I purchased it because of your recommendation!
Hi BTilke,
I am a huge fan of your posts and have learned so much from you! It would be a pleasure-just send an email to
www.maribelsguides.com and I'll send it right along!
I forgot that I had already sent you the original file, including the rec of Monte Tecla as a "must see" day trip from the Baiona Parador. I'm updating the file a bit and will send the updated version along.
NED,
Forgot the Chieftains' "Santiago", with its last track recorded at the Dublin pub in Vigo. It's one of my favorites. I purchased it because of your recommendation!
Hi BTilke,
I am a huge fan of your posts and have learned so much from you! It would be a pleasure-just send an email to
www.maribelsguides.com and I'll send it right along!
Jun 22nd, 2006, 12:42 AM
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Maribel, have you been to the parador in Villalba, in Lugo? I met the director 4 or 5 years ago in Santiago, and he was extremely enthusiastic about his baby. I was thinking that it might be a good place for Ger to check out.
Ger, the weather in August in Galicia is usually very good, specially in the Rias Baixas area. It´s not the scorching heat of southern Spain, but it is a pleasant summer beach weather. People normally expects to encounter rain, but summer is quite the opposite. You might want to have a light sweater with you for the night (and I always pack a raincoat just in case), but I only had to wear it when staying in the Lugo coast, in places like Viveiro and Cedeira (you must go there, specially Viveiro).
Check the Turgalicia pages. Summer is an exciting time to be in Galicia, with plenty of festivals around.
Good luck with the hotel bookings.
Rgds, Cova
Ger, the weather in August in Galicia is usually very good, specially in the Rias Baixas area. It´s not the scorching heat of southern Spain, but it is a pleasant summer beach weather. People normally expects to encounter rain, but summer is quite the opposite. You might want to have a light sweater with you for the night (and I always pack a raincoat just in case), but I only had to wear it when staying in the Lugo coast, in places like Viveiro and Cedeira (you must go there, specially Viveiro).
Check the Turgalicia pages. Summer is an exciting time to be in Galicia, with plenty of festivals around.
Good luck with the hotel bookings.
Rgds, Cova
Jun 22nd, 2006, 06:29 AM
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Hi cova,
I have been to the Villalba Parador on the way to Mondoñedo.
The reason I didn't suggest it was that the experience of staying in the heart of Os Oscos at La Rectoral in Taramundi, is for me, at least, far more rewarding because of the spectacular scenery. That's where we always choose to stay on route from Santiago to Ribadeo. For us, it's very worth the short detour, and there's an ethnographic museum in an old mill/forge at Os Teixos that's interesting. And room 16 has a private terrace-what views!
Ger,
If you were on the Parador's 5 night plan, I would say, yes, you could stay in Villalba but if your options are open,
for Day 13,
since you'll be driving back down through Taramundi to the Ribeira Sacra, I would stay up on the coast.
As you say, either over the border in Asturias, Luarca, at the Casona Asturiana Villa Argentina (another indiano mansion), but the drive from there down to Santo Estevo would be long....too many cute Asturian villages to stop and see!
or
better still,
to see Viveiro (and maybe a stop at the ceramics factory in Sargadelos-depending on whether you like their designs) stay at the new Rusticae property we discovered (I put it in my new file), the Casa Doñano, just 7 km. west of Ribadeo in Vilela-Cubelas. It's a stone and timber indiano mansion from 1907. Candles lit at night, fresh flowers, yummy homemade filloas (Galician crepes) for breakfast-the former granary is now a little shop for local food products and the hay barn has been converted into the dining room.
www.casadonano.com
It gets good reviews from toprural.com and it's not far from Taramundi either. It'a represented by Inns of Spain as well. And I don't think it has a 2 night min. in Aug. as some of the charming country inns have.
Aug. 14:
The drive from the Ribadeo coastal area to Nogueira de Ramuín where the Parador Santo Estevo is located in the Ribeira Sacra is 230 km. and should take a little over 3 hrs.
For Aug. 12,
I would consider the Castelo de Andrade, which just got a full spread in the decorating magazine Habitania. It has a lovely setting in the nature reserve of Fragas do Eume between Betanzos (picturesque) and Pontedeume.
or if not available, La Rectoral de Cines near Betanzos, a member of the Pazos de Galicia group. Has a pool.
www.larectoraldecines.com
I've almost completed my revision of the file and will send it to you soon!
Regards,
Maribel
I have been to the Villalba Parador on the way to Mondoñedo.
The reason I didn't suggest it was that the experience of staying in the heart of Os Oscos at La Rectoral in Taramundi, is for me, at least, far more rewarding because of the spectacular scenery. That's where we always choose to stay on route from Santiago to Ribadeo. For us, it's very worth the short detour, and there's an ethnographic museum in an old mill/forge at Os Teixos that's interesting. And room 16 has a private terrace-what views!
Ger,
If you were on the Parador's 5 night plan, I would say, yes, you could stay in Villalba but if your options are open,
for Day 13,
since you'll be driving back down through Taramundi to the Ribeira Sacra, I would stay up on the coast.
As you say, either over the border in Asturias, Luarca, at the Casona Asturiana Villa Argentina (another indiano mansion), but the drive from there down to Santo Estevo would be long....too many cute Asturian villages to stop and see!
or
better still,
to see Viveiro (and maybe a stop at the ceramics factory in Sargadelos-depending on whether you like their designs) stay at the new Rusticae property we discovered (I put it in my new file), the Casa Doñano, just 7 km. west of Ribadeo in Vilela-Cubelas. It's a stone and timber indiano mansion from 1907. Candles lit at night, fresh flowers, yummy homemade filloas (Galician crepes) for breakfast-the former granary is now a little shop for local food products and the hay barn has been converted into the dining room.
www.casadonano.com
It gets good reviews from toprural.com and it's not far from Taramundi either. It'a represented by Inns of Spain as well. And I don't think it has a 2 night min. in Aug. as some of the charming country inns have.
Aug. 14:
The drive from the Ribadeo coastal area to Nogueira de Ramuín where the Parador Santo Estevo is located in the Ribeira Sacra is 230 km. and should take a little over 3 hrs.
For Aug. 12,
I would consider the Castelo de Andrade, which just got a full spread in the decorating magazine Habitania. It has a lovely setting in the nature reserve of Fragas do Eume between Betanzos (picturesque) and Pontedeume.
or if not available, La Rectoral de Cines near Betanzos, a member of the Pazos de Galicia group. Has a pool.
www.larectoraldecines.com
I've almost completed my revision of the file and will send it to you soon!
Regards,
Maribel
Jun 22nd, 2006, 07:53 PM
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Thanks once again for all your valuable advice. My plans have changed due to an unforeseen problem with flights from Prague where I will spend a couple of days on business before my vacation! I now cannot start the vacation until the Friday, so I am rethinking my schedule. I have received no confirmations from the Paradors and nothing from the other hotels either – so I may end up sleeping in the car!
I will fly from London Gatwick to Madrid on the Thursday evening, overnight at the airport and then take a morning flight to somewhere in Galicia. I am now thinking that I should fly into La Coruna and stay there on the Friday night and stay the last night in Santiago de Compostela. This means I will have the car for two less days, have a relaxing day in La Coruna to start the vacation and less driving. Here is how my revised itinerary looks”
Aug 11th Friday: Fly into La Coruna, stay at the five star Hesperia Finisterre Hotel (http://www.hesperia.com/Hesperia-Finisterre/?cambio=169) (175 Euros for a sea view). Relax, shopping/tourist day.
Aug 12th Saturday: Pick up the car in the morning, drive up the coast road to Ribadeo; stay in area or Luarca (depending on availability of accommodation)
Aug 13th Sunday: Drive inland to San Estevo, exploring Ribeira Sacra; stay the night
Aug 14th Monday: Drive to Baoina along the pilgrimage route; see Monte Santa Tecla; stay night in the Parador if available (unlikely) or some other hotel in the area (may have to stay in Vigo)
Aug 15th Tuesday: Drive along the coast road; drop car back; stay the night in Santiago
Aug 16th Wednesday: Explore Santiago; late flight back to Madrid
A question: I had planned to spend a lot of time on the coast but am now intrigued by your comments on Ribeira Sacra and the inland of Galicia. Should I spend an extra night at San Estevo (or other place in the region) to explore the region? If so, where should I steal that extra day from?
Regards Ger
I will fly from London Gatwick to Madrid on the Thursday evening, overnight at the airport and then take a morning flight to somewhere in Galicia. I am now thinking that I should fly into La Coruna and stay there on the Friday night and stay the last night in Santiago de Compostela. This means I will have the car for two less days, have a relaxing day in La Coruna to start the vacation and less driving. Here is how my revised itinerary looks”
Aug 11th Friday: Fly into La Coruna, stay at the five star Hesperia Finisterre Hotel (http://www.hesperia.com/Hesperia-Finisterre/?cambio=169) (175 Euros for a sea view). Relax, shopping/tourist day.
Aug 12th Saturday: Pick up the car in the morning, drive up the coast road to Ribadeo; stay in area or Luarca (depending on availability of accommodation)
Aug 13th Sunday: Drive inland to San Estevo, exploring Ribeira Sacra; stay the night
Aug 14th Monday: Drive to Baoina along the pilgrimage route; see Monte Santa Tecla; stay night in the Parador if available (unlikely) or some other hotel in the area (may have to stay in Vigo)
Aug 15th Tuesday: Drive along the coast road; drop car back; stay the night in Santiago
Aug 16th Wednesday: Explore Santiago; late flight back to Madrid
A question: I had planned to spend a lot of time on the coast but am now intrigued by your comments on Ribeira Sacra and the inland of Galicia. Should I spend an extra night at San Estevo (or other place in the region) to explore the region? If so, where should I steal that extra day from?
Regards Ger
Jun 22nd, 2006, 08:56 PM
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Galicia is quite big, and you don´t have much time. I think that your schedule is rational and according to the days you have for your visit. Otherwise, you would have to choose between visiting just the inland or just the coast (an in-depth visit would take at least 15 days just for the inland). So relax and enjoy, you´ll love it (regarding accommodation, have you tried any of the PAZOS-Galician manor houses, to give you a rough idea-that have been converted into first class hotels in a rural environment?)
Jun 23rd, 2006, 05:58 AM
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Hi Ger,
About your revised itinerary:
The reversal of A Coruña and Santiago sounds fine to me.
I don't think you should take away a night in Santiago to spend another in the Ribeira Sacra-one night at the Parador there is enough, to give you a taste of the eastern Galician countryside, as there's much more to do and see in Santiago and environs and on the western coast, although the roads will be packed with vacationers.
About your hotels,
If you're having trouble finding availability, you might want just to put this all in the hands of Totally Spain.
Ken Baldwin, who's Irish, and Belén, from Vitoria, have the resources and insider know- how and pull to find rooms in charming places when we can't. They're based in Cantabria and know all of Northern Spain very, very well. They can also arrange your car rental and represent all Hesperia properties, too, plus the Paradors. Last July they arranged our 2 week Cantabrian exploration for us because I was too busy to handle it myself. And they have arranged our two week farmhouse rental and car plus Bilbao area stay, coming up in just two weeks.
www.totallyspain.com
Just a thought...
About alternate lodging:
If the Paradors are full, do consider the charming Rusticae properties in the area:
www.rusticae.es
And, as mikelg mentions, the Pazos de Galicia
www.pazosdegalicia.com
You can see all lodging, city hotels and rural tourism properties at www.turgalicia.es
Good luck!
About your revised itinerary:
The reversal of A Coruña and Santiago sounds fine to me.
I don't think you should take away a night in Santiago to spend another in the Ribeira Sacra-one night at the Parador there is enough, to give you a taste of the eastern Galician countryside, as there's much more to do and see in Santiago and environs and on the western coast, although the roads will be packed with vacationers.
About your hotels,
If you're having trouble finding availability, you might want just to put this all in the hands of Totally Spain.
Ken Baldwin, who's Irish, and Belén, from Vitoria, have the resources and insider know- how and pull to find rooms in charming places when we can't. They're based in Cantabria and know all of Northern Spain very, very well. They can also arrange your car rental and represent all Hesperia properties, too, plus the Paradors. Last July they arranged our 2 week Cantabrian exploration for us because I was too busy to handle it myself. And they have arranged our two week farmhouse rental and car plus Bilbao area stay, coming up in just two weeks.
www.totallyspain.com
Just a thought...
About alternate lodging:
If the Paradors are full, do consider the charming Rusticae properties in the area:
www.rusticae.es
And, as mikelg mentions, the Pazos de Galicia
www.pazosdegalicia.com
You can see all lodging, city hotels and rural tourism properties at www.turgalicia.es
Good luck!
Jun 23rd, 2006, 02:42 PM
#35
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RE
quot;I'll be delighted to send you my unpublished Galicia-Asturias-Cantabria guide, which someday I'll get around to uploading onto my web page"
Maribel,
Perhaps its too bold of me to ask for I am new to this site and you don't know me from beans,but I adore your website ( which I just discovered when I found this site) and would love a copy too if its possible?
If not ,just thanks any way for a wonderful site!
quot;I'll be delighted to send you my unpublished Galicia-Asturias-Cantabria guide, which someday I'll get around to uploading onto my web page"Maribel,
Perhaps its too bold of me to ask for I am new to this site and you don't know me from beans,but I adore your website ( which I just discovered when I found this site) and would love a copy too if its possible?
If not ,just thanks any way for a wonderful site!
Jun 23rd, 2006, 04:55 PM
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Wtnow,
I'd be honored to send you the rough draft. If you'll just send me an email to www.maribelsguides.com, I'll send it to you straight away.
And thank you very much for the kind compliment!
Happy travels.
I'd be honored to send you the rough draft. If you'll just send me an email to www.maribelsguides.com, I'll send it to you straight away.
And thank you very much for the kind compliment!
Happy travels.
Jun 23rd, 2006, 05:17 PM
#37
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Thanks Maribel for your latest suggestions. I have sent a note to Totally Spain with my schedule and asked for their assistance. If they come through on Monday, then I will use them from now on - whoever said PLANNING is half the fun has more time and patience than I have!
I'll keep you posted.
Regards Ger
I'll keep you posted.
Regards Ger
Jun 23rd, 2006, 07:06 PM
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This thread makes me smile and give me wanderlust for Spain, even as we have plans for southern France in the works for September. Got to see the Botafumeiro swing on Corpus Christi in 1986 with my parents . . . and the first song my Irish husband played in his pub when he opened it was the biggie (can't recall the title) from Hevia's Tierra de Nadie.
Ger, here's a couple of links I ran across not too long ago. The second one has links to weather/temp comparisons within Galicia and other useful info: http://www.galiciaguide.com/Galicia-index.html
http://colindavies.net/Pontevedra.htm
http://colindavies.blogspot.com/
Ger, here's a couple of links I ran across not too long ago. The second one has links to weather/temp comparisons within Galicia and other useful info: http://www.galiciaguide.com/Galicia-index.html
http://colindavies.net/Pontevedra.htm
http://colindavies.blogspot.com/
Jun 23rd, 2006, 07:43 PM
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Hi Molloy,
Thanks for those great links! I'm listening to Hevia as we speak-my favorite is Tanzila!
cruiseluv,
Now, I want to change my schedule too! Have to get back to Galicia soon.
Ger,
I really do hope you can make your way to Taramundi. The scenery there is truly magical. Here's the link to the ethnographic museum to put you in the celtic mood.
www.osteixois.com/
Thanks for those great links! I'm listening to Hevia as we speak-my favorite is Tanzila!
cruiseluv,
Now, I want to change my schedule too! Have to get back to Galicia soon.
Ger,
I really do hope you can make your way to Taramundi. The scenery there is truly magical. Here's the link to the ethnographic museum to put you in the celtic mood.
www.osteixois.com/
