OReilly

Almost two years ago, I spent a week in Northern (“Green”) Spain and the Spanish and French Basque regions. I was completely enthralled by Northern Spain and swore I would return. I was frustrated that I did not have enough time to make it all the way to Galacia – Celtic Spain.

I may have the opportunity to do so in August. I have several guide books and have started reading up on the region, have checked out some hotels and Paradors and have requested information from the Spanish Tourist Board. In the meantime, I would love some advice, tips and answers. You know how it is – everything seems so enticing and exciting I am already confused!

I am hoping Maribel, Robert and NedsIreland and other Spain-lovers are reading this!

Here are some details about how I like to travel:
- I will have a car and have no problem doing up to 5 hours a day driving.
- I love exciting drives with fabulous scenery.
- I hate the heat, but have checked the weather patterns and it appears that the region is relatively cool (less than 85 degrees at least) during the period (note: if there any areas I should avoid due to temperatures over 90 degrees, PLEASE let me know)
- I prefer country to city
- I want to visit interesting places off the beaten track
- I also love art, history, architecture and am willing to endure excessive heat if its worth it

I think I will have about 6 days in total and I want to make the best of my time there. I will fly in and out of Bilbao, but don’t intend to spend any time in the city (I can do that anytime from London in the future).

Day 1: I will pick up the car in the early morning and plan to drive about three hours to Luarca or Cudillero and stay in one of the places recommended by Maribel. I might then do a drive to Taramundi.

Day 2: I thought I would explore the Northern coast, ending up near/in Ferrol for the night.

Day 3: Continue to drive along the coast and make my way to Santiago de Compostela. Stay the night in the Parador.

Day 4: Explore Santiago de Compostela. Head to the Parador in Baiona; stay the night there

Day 5: Explore the coastline; stay another night in Baiona or move on?

Day 6: Drive through the interior back to Bilbao for an evening flight

How does this look to you as a preliminary itinerary? What if I wanted to stay a night in Salamanca on my return to Bilbao – what should I cut out?

I would really like your help – as usual, I am trying to squeeze a two week trip into 6 days!

Many thanks for your assistance.

Regards Ger

NEDSIRELAND

Why not fly to/from Santiago. RyanAir has flights ...
August is peak tourist season! You should have all your hotel reservations set in concrete before you go. My most recent trip to Santiago I stayed at an Hostal: A Nosa Casa: c/Entremurralas, in July (B&B 30-Euro). That's Continental breakfast. A Nosa Casa is just inside the Historic area from Plaza de Galicia. I had to walk out to the Plaza to get a Taxi for an early flight to Madrid when I left.

If at all possible you should try to be in Santiago Saturday PM & Sunday AM. That way you would have a chance to see the Botafumeiro 'swing' in the Basilica.

Some specifics: Take the coast road south from Baiona to Monte Santa Tecla where you will see a restored Castrenho (Celtic) village from the third Century BC.

CRAZY4TRAVEL

Ger, I don't have any advice for your trip but I had to tell you that I really enjoyed your trip report on Umbria. Even more so since we recently stayed in Spello ourselves. We ate dinner at Il Molino and had forgotten our translation book back at the hotel. My husband ended up with the three turds. I could barely contain my laughter as your trip report came flooding back to me.

The waiters english was not so good and our italian no better. We were trying to reconfirm that it was indeed liver that he had ordered. My husband was pointing to his own liver and the waiter thought that my husband had some sort of intestinal upset. He went to get someone else to help translate our problem.

When he returned with another gentleman, I now started to point to my liver as well. They finally realized that there was no grave illness and left us with the three turds to eat in peace.

The good wife that I am, I shared my lovely beef with my husband and for good measure had a bite of his liver. I read my husband your trip report when we returned home...he thought it was hysterical.

mikelg

I find it odd that you´re travelling to Galicia from Bilbao. It may take about 6 to 7 hours (at least) to get there by car. I´d recommend any other airport, closer to Santiago (or Santiago itself). By the way, I live near Bilbao and it IS quite a distance (good roads, though, both the coast and the interior highways).

After reading about your preferences, there is a region in Galicia which is really off the beaten path, the Ribeira Sacra, full of monasteries and vineyards and castles and nature, following the course of the river Sil. Extraordinary, very celtic, not very touristy, full of small family cellars,...

I found some web pages on the Internet about it, unfortunately not in English:

http://www1.galiciaparaelmundo.com/a...beirasacra.asp
http://www.ribeirasacra.org/
http://www.ribeirasacrata.com/

On the coast you´ll taste the best octopus and seafood in your life!!

tower

Ger...since you emphasize country over city , and fabulous scenery, may I suggest that you do everything you can to visit the Painted Forest (El Bosque Pintado de Oma). We chanced upon this three years ago and were overwhlemed by it...it's on the direct route between Bilbao and San Sebastian, just a few kms north of Gernika. 500 trees in a wild forest with trunks painted in various colors and figures by Agustin Ibarolla, a Basque artist..look it up in Lonely Planet. It's a scene you'll never forget.

http://www.pbase.com/txirloro/elbosque

Stu T.

OReilly

Thanks for all your help.

The reason for the flight to Bilboa is that I am really restricted re timing. Don't want to do Ryanair via Stansted for various reasons. I am now considering going via Barcelona to Asturias - I think the timing will work better.

Ned, good tip re Santiago on Sunday. Am I right in assuming that it is not TOO hot there even in August?

Mikelg: Thanks - I am checking out the region. I have found a Parador close by.

Tower: Thanks - your photos are wonderful. I don;t think I will make it all the way to Santader this time.

Crazy4 - What a HOOT!!! I must get around to finishing that report one of these days.

Regards Ger

tower

Ger..correction...the painted forest is not near Santander...it's less than halfway between Bilbao and San Sebastian...close to Gernika (Guernica)...a drive from Bilbao should not be longer than one hour to reach it.
Stu T.

Luhimari

Ger, maybe you will find useful my trip report on our visit to Spain, including Galicia and Asturias. It's not finished yet but I'll do my best to finsish the Galicia part in the coming days. Just click my name and look for the report.

cruiseluv

Hi Ger,

Your trip sounds great ( for me anything that has Santiago in the itinerary is great!!).

I don't know what you consider very hot but last year I was in Santiago in mid-July and there was a heat wave! High 80's(low90's?) in the day. It was stifling! Everywhere I went in the North was like that ( Oviedo and Santander too). I was soooo happy that my hotel in Santiago had A/C. I might be wrong but I think the Parador rooms do not have A/C( at least the room we had there 4 years ago did not). Last year I stayed at the Hotel Rua Villar a few steps from the Cathedral. I highly recommend it. http://www.hotelruavillar.com/

Maybe you'll be luckier with the Botafumeiro than me. I went to the Pilgrims mass every day I was there, including Sat and Sunday and it never swung! I even spot checked other masses and nothing!

Couldn't you fly out of Vigo near Baiona instead of coming back to Bilbao?

OReilly

Thanks Luhimari - I will check out your trip report!

Cruisluv ... that is what I am concerned about - high temps in Santiago! I am sure it will be far cooler in the mountains and by the sea, which is why I want to spend most of my time there.

OK .... I have done some more investigations and will probably fly through Madrid and take flights to Vigo on the way out and Asturias on the way back. I'll keep you posted on the progress. I also have to start looking for hotels - which will be fun given its August!

Maribel

Ger,
If you would like to send me an email thru www.maribelsguides.com, I'll be delighted to send you my unpublished Galicia-Asturias-Cantabria guide, which someday I'll get around to uploading onto my web page.

And Taramundi and La Rectoral are absolutely enchanting.

I would stay far away from El Ferrol. But there's an adorable B&B near Pontedeume which I'm sure you would love, the Castelo de Andrade. Atmospheric to the max.
www.casteloandrade.com

And the new Parador in the Ribeira Sacra is a beauty, the Parador Santo Estevo. I agree completely with mikelg about the Ribeira Sacra.

And I would try to use either the Santiago, Vigo or La Coruña airports for your short Galicia trip.

Regards,
Maribel

OReilly

So good to hear from you Maribel. I'll send you a note!

I got onto the Iberia website and found internal flights from Madrid to Vigo etc. for as little as 40Euros!!! However, I am not sure if I can buy these tickets as a non-resident (will check it out tomorrow). When I check out the USA version of the website, the same tickets are US$170????

Revised plan is as follows:

Aug 10th Thursday: Fly into Vigo and stay the night at the parador in Baiona (available) and explore the estuary

Aug 11th Friday: Drive up the coast road to Santiago de Compostela, stay the night in the parador (available)

Aug 12th Saturday: Drive up the coast to la Coruna, stay the night (or should I go somewhere else?)

Aug 13th Sunday: Drive up the coast to Ribadeo, stay the parador (available) or move on to Luarca (Marible’s recommended hotel)

Aug 14th Monday: Drive to Santo Estevo.parador (not sure of availability), stopping at Tarmundi on the way (have not yet checked out the driving time – possible???

Aug 15th Tuesday: Drive through Ribeira Sacra on the way back to Santiago de Compostela for a late flight to Madrid (have not check the driving times – doable???)

How does this look?

Many thanks to you all for your excellent advice!

Regards Ger

Maribel

Yes, Ger, you can buy them as a non-resident. We bought Madrid-Vigo, Santiago-Madrid tixs for this past March.

For August 12, I would spend the night at the Casa de Andrade in Pontedeume.

In August the roads on the coast will be bumper to bumper, so I would stay away from cities and the main coastal areas for some relaxation in the country.

I wouldn't stay at the Parador in Ribadeo. It's not so charming and doesn't face the sea. It's good for a coffee/lunch stop, but I wouldn't spend the night. I'd either move on to Luarca and stay at the Villa Argentina or Torre de Villademoros (see www.casonasasturianas.com)
or better still, with only 6 days, I'd confine this trip STRICTLY to Galicia. Before moving down to the Ribeira Sacra, I'd spend the night on the coast just 7 km. WEST of Ribadeo at the charming Casa Doñano, a member of the lovely Rusticae group, also represented by Inns of Spain and Secret Places.
www.casadonano.com

If a room is available at the Parador de Baiona, grab it! But make sure it is a sea-view room ,as the ones that aren't just don't make it. This Parador is one of my all time favorites. We spend 4 heavenly nights there and could have easily spent a week!

OReilly

Maribel, you are a treasure!

OK, I am it. I am still waiting for final confirmation from my collegues re business meetings in Europe before I can confirm my dates, but at 40 Euros for the Iberia tickets, I am just going to book them and take the chance.

Any comment on why the same tickets are four times more on the US website? This is a new discovery for me.

Best regards Ger

Maribel

Hi Ger!
I haven't the slightest idea, but we have found amazingly inexpensive promo tickets on www.iberia.es and have had no trouble booking them via the web site. We've joined their ff program.

If you loved the Basque Country, you will be equally enthralled by celtic Galicia.
Buy a CD of Carlos Nuñez ("Almas de Fisterra&quot, Milladoiro ("Auga de Maio&quot , Luar Na Lubre ("Hai un Paraiso&quot or Susana Seivane (the female bagpipe sensation) to get you in the mood!

On your next trip, dedicate your time to celtic Asturias-from Luarca to Llanes with a detour to Picos de Europa. What a treat!

OReilly

Maribel, I am on a Celtic pilgrimage this summer to explore my roots! I hope to visit Brittany in July and will also travel back home to Ireland.

Thanks for the music recommendations - I will seek them out. In Ireland, we have the Uillean pipes, similar in sound to the Breton pipes I believe, but "pumped" rather than "blown". I am also going to find some Alan Stivell music from Brittany.

Have you read my half-finished trip report from Asturias/Cantabria? If not, I can top it for you. You inspired me to visit the area and it was just as wonderful as you painted it.

Best regards Ger

Maribel

Hi Ger,
Please top!
I've been away from the forum for quite a while and missed your report!

I'm listening now to the hauntingly beautiful voice of Sara Louraço Vidal on the song "O meu pais" of the Luar Na Lubre CD-second only to Dulce Pontes' "Maitia nun zira" on the Kepa Junkera "Biblao 00:00" I adore celtic music!

And for wonderful Asturian bagpipes, try Hevia's CD, "La Tierra de Nadie" .

Have a wonderful journey!

Maribel

Make that "Bilbao 00:00" by the great Basque musician from Bilbao, Kepa Junkera.

cruiseluv

Ger,

I share your enthusiasm for Northern Spain .I'm also indebted to Maribel for awakening my interest in this area.

I remember reading your Asturias/ Cantabria report and enjoying it tremendously.

Good luck with your plans and please keep us posted!

marigross

Hola chicas, just a quick dash to greet all of you!!! Long time no post -its crazy at work.

Ger your trip report to the picos sparked my interest on the area and I enjoyed it tremendously!!!

BTW, I ADORE Hevia...