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GENOA: ZTL & parking? Worth an overnight stay driving from Monaco?

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We are considering of driving round trip from Monaco to overnight in Genova for fun.
My concerns:
Is Genoa worth the two hour drive from Côte d'Azur? I'm factoring in the multi freeway dark tunnels with high speed trucks whizzing by vs the city charm & food.
How can we avoid ZTL in Genoa if we want to stay in a downtown hotel? I can read Italian well if there is a good detailed explanation online? Good 4-5 star hotel recommendations would also be appreciated.

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