Fodor's Travel Talk Forums

Fodor's Travel Talk Forums (
-   Europe (
-   -   Gare de Lyon area? (

Jane May 7th, 2002 12:07 PM

Gare de Lyon area?
We've been offered a good deal on a place to stay in Paris, a little studio between Gare de Lyon and Opera Bastille. This is one part of Paris I don't know much about (we're used to staying in the Latin Quarter).<BR><BR>What can folks tell me about this area: shopping, restaurants, safety, etc? Many thanks.

elvira May 7th, 2002 12:54 PM

This is a great area if you really want to get the feel of Paris sans tourists. Other than the Opera and the Place de la Bastille and the Viaduc des Artistes, there are no tourist attractions. What you've got is a multi-cultural neighborhood with lots of good neighborhood restaurants, fun shops, and the general bustle of Parisians going about their daily lives. There are metro lines (and the RER A line at Nation) and bus lines that'll get you to all the other parts of Paris; the d'Aligre market is a stone's throw away from your studio. <BR><BR>Lots of interesting architecture in the area (the area was known for its furniture/cabinetmakers; still some working studios); the Parc de Bercy is wonderful (walk all the way through it to the Bercy Village). The 11eme (just north of rue Faubourg St Antoine) has lots and lots of artist galleries and studios. Wonderful churches, and the mayor's office for the 12eme is really pretty (has the green fountain in front, you know, the one with the dames in veils holding up the cupola?). Be sure to do the Viaduc, then go up top for the gardens.<BR><BR>It's my favorite part of Paris.<BR><BR>

Jim Rosenberg May 7th, 2002 01:55 PM

I second Elvira's take. This is the area where I almost ALWAYS stay and it's great. You'll also save significantly because you are away from the "tourist-priced" dining and hotels. (Now don't tell EVERYONE, okay?!) :o)

Ursula May 7th, 2002 11:00 PM

No, we won't, Jim! ;)<BR>Off to Paris tomorrow for a long weekend!

Frenchy May 8th, 2002 03:20 AM

Lived there for about 10 years on avenue Daumesnil. Nice area, not upscale or touristy. Just a normal typical Paris' quarter with some quiet neighborhood life.<BR><BR>Do not miss the restaurant "A La Biche au Bois" when you are there (45, avenue Ledru Rollin; telephone 01 43 43 34 38): best down-to-earth restaurant ever (reservation recommended, closed on weekends).<BR><BR>Buses 63 and 87 available to go to the latin quarter, Saint Germain des Pres and Eiffel tower. Bus 91 to go to Montparnasse. Metro line 1 (the best) at your footstep!<BR><BR>Coud not think of a better, non touristy area. No safety problems but hey! Paris is a big city so it's always good to be careful wherever you go!<BR><BR>Bon voyage!

Julie May 8th, 2002 04:26 AM

Through reading posts like these, we discovered the 11th and 12th arrondisements and are now also big fans. I second the recommendation for Au Biche au Bois, a really fun bistro with locals who appear to be daily customers. It's very reasonable but I'd advise advance reservations even for lunch. They really pack them in. Another good place for food is Square Trousseau. It's just around the corner from the Aligre market and accross the street from a park with the same name. It's a really authentic looking Paris Bistro with bentwood chairs, menus on chalk boards only in French and beautiful mirrors and ceilings with plaster flowers, etc. The ancient wine is a little more rugged than we were prepared for but the food was wonderful. And don't leave the Aligre market area without paying a visit to the Baron Rouge wine bar on your way to the Square Trousseau. Many wines by the glass to try and you can watch the locals come in with their gallon or larger plastic jugs and fill them from the barrels. Great fun. Of course, you should balance this "down and dirty" experience with a drink in the elegant bar/lounges at the Gare de Lyon. You can walk through the restaurant area on your way to the bar/lounges and save yourself the expense of a meal which I understand is not high on the gastronomic charts. Check out the fun bathrooms, too.

Jane May 8th, 2002 06:40 AM

Thanks, all, for your encouraging responses. We won't actually be going for quite some time, but we need to firm up our accommodation plans ASAP. Sounds like we've got a winner.<BR><BR>Now if I can just stop thinking about Paris long enough to get some work done...

ita Dec 28th, 2002 11:01 AM

Don't miss the restaurant Le Train Bleu in Gare de Lyon station for the beautiful decoration and artifacts. Don't recall prices, but just coffee wil let you see this magnificance.

mimi taylor Dec 28th, 2002 12:17 PM

Yes, as the last poster said, don't miss le Tran bleu one of the most beautiful restaurants in Paris. You can see a bit of it in the French film 'La Femme Nikita&quot; This was also one of MFK Fisher's favorite restaurants.

Randy Dec 28th, 2002 12:37 PM

Jane:<BR><BR>If you go to the Aligre market, don't miss my favorite Restaurant, La Table D'Aligre. Recommend a reservation. 01 43 07 84 88 About 23 euro for three course meal.

waste of Dec 28th, 2002 02:12 PM

ita, mimi and randy - give it up. Jane took her trip IN MAY! You won't do her much good now. Ita, why did you top a 7+ month old thread to give her advice anyway. She has been home since May!

interest2 Dec 28th, 2002 03:31 PM

That's okay, there are plenty of us who missed the first one, Ita, and are interested in learning more about that area for our upcoming trips.<BR><BR>Well Jane, if your'e still on this forum, how was the trip?

All times are GMT -8. The time now is 09:18 PM.