From the Autostadt to the Alps and on to the Adriatic.
Jun 30th, 2009, 08:15 PM
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From the Autostadt to the Alps and on to the Adriatic.
Last year, my husband and I were in the process of planning a trip to Croatia for the spring of 2009, when my daughter and her husband asked if we would like to travel with them in May, 2009, to celebrate their 10th wedding anniversary. Our son-in-law, Matt, is not an enthusiastic traveler, and would probably much prefer to spend his time and money at home, working on various DYI projects, than traveling to Europe. But he had promised our daughter, Cassie, who loves to travel, a special trip, and he meant to keep that promise. We were honored to be invited along. We love to travel, too. (Cassie's inheritance?) We plan, if possible, a trip to Europe every two or three years, and we always have a wonderful experience. It did not take the four of us long to settle on a destination for this trip. Because Matt is an avid collector and restorer of vintage Volkswagens , Germany seemed a good choice. The Autostadt and the Volkswagen Museum in Wolfsburg would be our first stop. And not giving up on our original plan, when Cassie and Matt left for home, Steve and I would travel south through Austria and Slovenia to Croatia and then on to Venice.
<b>Our Itinerary</b>
10 Days in Germany with Cassie & Matt:
Day 1 - Land in Frankfort and meet Cassie & Matt - Drive to Goslar in the Harz Mountains
Spend 2 nights at the Hotel Kaiserworth in Goslar.
Day 2 - Visit the Autostadt and the Volkswagen Museum in Wolfburg.
Drive 3 - Drive to Oberwesel on the Rhine, spend 1 night at the Castle Hotel Schoenburg
Day 4 - Drive to Rothenburg, stay at the Hotel Klosterstuble 1 night.
Day 5 - Drive to Berchtesgaden
Spend 6 nights at the Gastehaus Aschbachhof (apartment) near Berchtesgaden.
Day 10 - Cassie and Matt fly home from Munich
8 More Days - A Few More Countries:
We continue travel by train through Austria to Ljublyana, Slovenia (B&B Slamic - 1 night)
Day 11 - Train to Zagreb, Croatia - pick up rental car - drive to Plitvice Lakes - 1 night Hotel Plitvice
Day 12 - Drive to Rovinj - spend 3 nights in Porta Antica apartment
Day 15 - Ferry to Venice - 2 nights at Palazzo Guardi Hotel
Day 17 - Fly to London - Hotel Trafalgar
Day 18 - Fly home
This itinerary involved more travel time than we normally would schedule. I worried that we were trying to cover too much territory and, to be honest, the last week had some stressful early morning connections and a few hectic moments. But in the end, we were glad we didn't cut out destinations like Ljublyana or Plitvice Lakes, which we might never have the opportunity to visit again.
<b>Beyond Castles & Culture - Insights into Technology, Natural Wonders, and a Sobering Look at Humanity's Dark Side</b>
When Steve and I travel to Europe, we love to experience the culture of the places we visit, from the beautiful old castles and the historic town centers to the food served for breakfast and the best local wine. On this trip, we walked many lovely cobblestone streets through little medieval towns and sat in plenty of charming cafes, watching the people pass by. However, thanks to Cassie and Matt, we broadened our horizons this time to include sights and experiences we probably would have passed by if they hadn't been with us. I'll describe some of those in the next installment of our trip report.
<b>Our Itinerary</b>
10 Days in Germany with Cassie & Matt:
Day 1 - Land in Frankfort and meet Cassie & Matt - Drive to Goslar in the Harz Mountains
Spend 2 nights at the Hotel Kaiserworth in Goslar.
Day 2 - Visit the Autostadt and the Volkswagen Museum in Wolfburg.
Drive 3 - Drive to Oberwesel on the Rhine, spend 1 night at the Castle Hotel Schoenburg
Day 4 - Drive to Rothenburg, stay at the Hotel Klosterstuble 1 night.
Day 5 - Drive to Berchtesgaden
Spend 6 nights at the Gastehaus Aschbachhof (apartment) near Berchtesgaden.
Day 10 - Cassie and Matt fly home from Munich
8 More Days - A Few More Countries:
We continue travel by train through Austria to Ljublyana, Slovenia (B&B Slamic - 1 night)
Day 11 - Train to Zagreb, Croatia - pick up rental car - drive to Plitvice Lakes - 1 night Hotel Plitvice
Day 12 - Drive to Rovinj - spend 3 nights in Porta Antica apartment
Day 15 - Ferry to Venice - 2 nights at Palazzo Guardi Hotel
Day 17 - Fly to London - Hotel Trafalgar
Day 18 - Fly home
This itinerary involved more travel time than we normally would schedule. I worried that we were trying to cover too much territory and, to be honest, the last week had some stressful early morning connections and a few hectic moments. But in the end, we were glad we didn't cut out destinations like Ljublyana or Plitvice Lakes, which we might never have the opportunity to visit again.
<b>Beyond Castles & Culture - Insights into Technology, Natural Wonders, and a Sobering Look at Humanity's Dark Side</b>
When Steve and I travel to Europe, we love to experience the culture of the places we visit, from the beautiful old castles and the historic town centers to the food served for breakfast and the best local wine. On this trip, we walked many lovely cobblestone streets through little medieval towns and sat in plenty of charming cafes, watching the people pass by. However, thanks to Cassie and Matt, we broadened our horizons this time to include sights and experiences we probably would have passed by if they hadn't been with us. I'll describe some of those in the next installment of our trip report.
Jul 1st, 2009, 06:37 PM
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<b>German technology as a sightseeing option-Wolfsburg</b>
Thanks to Matt and his passion for Volkswagens, we spent our first day in Germany at the Autostadt in Wolfsburg, a sort of Disneyland version of everything Volkswagen. It really was an amazing place. When we initially discussed the Autostadt as a destination, I had no idea what to expect, and rather hoped it wouldn't be too boring. Far from it - I was fascinated. When we arrived at the information center, where we purchased tickets, we were assigned an English speaking guide. She was wonderful. After a brief and fascinating history of the development of the Volkswagen, she led us through the various exhibits and past the different buildings, giving us a brief description of each one, so we could decide which venue merited more of our time and which buildings we would like to return to. I wished we had a few young children in our group, because there was a really neat mini driving school for kids, with individual training kiosks and a test course with little battery operated Volkswagen cars. Very cool for that age group, I would think.
I really enjoyed the Konsernforum, which detailed the history and development of the automobile. To be honest, driving my Chevy Malibu to the supermarket never felt like a miracle in technology until I saw the prototype of an early automobile, which looked more like a bicycle with some very strange attachments. Following the exhibits detailing the advances in automotive technology, I really appreciated how far and fast the engineers who designed, developed, and improved upon that first motorized vehicle had come.
There was much more to see at the Autostadt. Everything was beautifully presented, and the grounds were lovely. The whole place was originally designed as a luxury center for customers to pick up their new vehicles, and it was fun to watch people actually doing that the day we were there. Unfortunately, because we were there on a Saturday, we could not tour the factory, which I imagine would be something really neat to see.
We did have a great lunch in the cafeteria-style restaurant. We enjoyed our first curry wurst, a long hotdog-type sausage with barbeque-like sauce and a liberal sprinkling of curry powder. Wonderful!
Wolfsburg is also home to the Volkswagen Museum. After some initial confusion (we weren't sure if it was actually part of the Autostadt or a separate entity) we located it in town and pulled into the parking lot. It looked like it was out of business. The parking lot was weedy and the building had some broken, boarded up windows. But the ticket window was open, so we bought our tickets and went in. Inside there were hundreds of Volkswagens, neat, tidy, and obviously lovingly cared for. Beetles, vans, buses were lined up in row after row, some bizarrely decorated, a few totally reworked into amphibious vehicles or taxicabs. There was even a Volkswagen handcrafted by a basketweaver. Amazing! Eventually, however, we went into Volkswagen overload, and happily headed back to the Hotel Kaiserworth in Goslar for the night. In a few days, on our way to Rothenburg, we would visit another museum devoted to technology, in Sinsheim.
Thanks to Matt and his passion for Volkswagens, we spent our first day in Germany at the Autostadt in Wolfsburg, a sort of Disneyland version of everything Volkswagen. It really was an amazing place. When we initially discussed the Autostadt as a destination, I had no idea what to expect, and rather hoped it wouldn't be too boring. Far from it - I was fascinated. When we arrived at the information center, where we purchased tickets, we were assigned an English speaking guide. She was wonderful. After a brief and fascinating history of the development of the Volkswagen, she led us through the various exhibits and past the different buildings, giving us a brief description of each one, so we could decide which venue merited more of our time and which buildings we would like to return to. I wished we had a few young children in our group, because there was a really neat mini driving school for kids, with individual training kiosks and a test course with little battery operated Volkswagen cars. Very cool for that age group, I would think.
I really enjoyed the Konsernforum, which detailed the history and development of the automobile. To be honest, driving my Chevy Malibu to the supermarket never felt like a miracle in technology until I saw the prototype of an early automobile, which looked more like a bicycle with some very strange attachments. Following the exhibits detailing the advances in automotive technology, I really appreciated how far and fast the engineers who designed, developed, and improved upon that first motorized vehicle had come.
There was much more to see at the Autostadt. Everything was beautifully presented, and the grounds were lovely. The whole place was originally designed as a luxury center for customers to pick up their new vehicles, and it was fun to watch people actually doing that the day we were there. Unfortunately, because we were there on a Saturday, we could not tour the factory, which I imagine would be something really neat to see.
We did have a great lunch in the cafeteria-style restaurant. We enjoyed our first curry wurst, a long hotdog-type sausage with barbeque-like sauce and a liberal sprinkling of curry powder. Wonderful!
Wolfsburg is also home to the Volkswagen Museum. After some initial confusion (we weren't sure if it was actually part of the Autostadt or a separate entity) we located it in town and pulled into the parking lot. It looked like it was out of business. The parking lot was weedy and the building had some broken, boarded up windows. But the ticket window was open, so we bought our tickets and went in. Inside there were hundreds of Volkswagens, neat, tidy, and obviously lovingly cared for. Beetles, vans, buses were lined up in row after row, some bizarrely decorated, a few totally reworked into amphibious vehicles or taxicabs. There was even a Volkswagen handcrafted by a basketweaver. Amazing! Eventually, however, we went into Volkswagen overload, and happily headed back to the Hotel Kaiserworth in Goslar for the night. In a few days, on our way to Rothenburg, we would visit another museum devoted to technology, in Sinsheim.
Jul 7th, 2009, 04:58 PM
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<b>German technology as a sightseeing option - Part 2</b>
If Steve and I had been traveling on our own, we probably would never have considered stopping at the Sinsheim Auto & Technik Musueum on our way from Oberwesel on the Rhine to Rothenburg. But Matt, our son-in-law, had come across a description of the museum in Sinsheim on the internet and thought it looked interesting. Although there was only limited mention of it in any of our guidebooks, we decided to give it a try. With over 3000 exhibits, the museum turned out to be a vast and varied collection of just about anything and everything that traveled by air, land, or sea, in the 20th century. Over 60 aircraft are on display, including both a supersonic Concorde and its Russian counterpart, dramatically poised with their distinctive noses pointed skyward. We boarded each plane and hiked the considerable distance up through the narrow cabin to the cockpit. Imagine crossing the Atlantic in half the time it takes now. Too bad for us that the technology of the Concorde never worked as an option for the general traveling public.
Inside the museum itself, the first exhibit showcased classic American cars, complete with mannequins dressed like the original drivers and passengers might have been in their heyday, with rather interesting interpretations of the styles of the fifties and sixties in America. Wandering through the museum, we moved further back in time, encountering some impressive European luxury cars of the twenties and thirties, polished and richly appointed, fit for royalty. Deep into the auto exhibit was a collection of large, shining, and sinister vehicles used to chauffeur Hitler and other high ranking officials of the 3rd Reich. Looking almost predatory, these cars could have driven right out of an old newsreel. The sight of them and their passengers in old photos made me shutter.
But this museum was much more than just automobiles. There was a display of 20 hulking locomotives. There were giant engines from naval destroyers and other ocean-going vessels, old time tractors and bulldozers, and an army of military tanks. There were sewing machines, calliopes, and motorcycles. There was an extensive exhibit of mannequins dressed in original World War II military uniforms, mostly German, of course, but also some British and American. In fact, there were mannequins everywhere in this museum: one dressed as a prom queen sitting on the back of a pink Cadillac convertible in the American car display; anothe dressed as a farmer holding a pitchfork next to an early tractor. There were even a few dressed as well-heeled passengers on the Concorde. I almost expected them to come to life and start socializing with one another or with us. "Night at the Museum" in Sinsheim seemed like an extremely creepy possibility. Fortunately, we left before nightfall and continued our trip on to Rothenburg.
If Steve and I had been traveling on our own, we probably would never have considered stopping at the Sinsheim Auto & Technik Musueum on our way from Oberwesel on the Rhine to Rothenburg. But Matt, our son-in-law, had come across a description of the museum in Sinsheim on the internet and thought it looked interesting. Although there was only limited mention of it in any of our guidebooks, we decided to give it a try. With over 3000 exhibits, the museum turned out to be a vast and varied collection of just about anything and everything that traveled by air, land, or sea, in the 20th century. Over 60 aircraft are on display, including both a supersonic Concorde and its Russian counterpart, dramatically poised with their distinctive noses pointed skyward. We boarded each plane and hiked the considerable distance up through the narrow cabin to the cockpit. Imagine crossing the Atlantic in half the time it takes now. Too bad for us that the technology of the Concorde never worked as an option for the general traveling public.
Inside the museum itself, the first exhibit showcased classic American cars, complete with mannequins dressed like the original drivers and passengers might have been in their heyday, with rather interesting interpretations of the styles of the fifties and sixties in America. Wandering through the museum, we moved further back in time, encountering some impressive European luxury cars of the twenties and thirties, polished and richly appointed, fit for royalty. Deep into the auto exhibit was a collection of large, shining, and sinister vehicles used to chauffeur Hitler and other high ranking officials of the 3rd Reich. Looking almost predatory, these cars could have driven right out of an old newsreel. The sight of them and their passengers in old photos made me shutter.
But this museum was much more than just automobiles. There was a display of 20 hulking locomotives. There were giant engines from naval destroyers and other ocean-going vessels, old time tractors and bulldozers, and an army of military tanks. There were sewing machines, calliopes, and motorcycles. There was an extensive exhibit of mannequins dressed in original World War II military uniforms, mostly German, of course, but also some British and American. In fact, there were mannequins everywhere in this museum: one dressed as a prom queen sitting on the back of a pink Cadillac convertible in the American car display; anothe dressed as a farmer holding a pitchfork next to an early tractor. There were even a few dressed as well-heeled passengers on the Concorde. I almost expected them to come to life and start socializing with one another or with us. "Night at the Museum" in Sinsheim seemed like an extremely creepy possibility. Fortunately, we left before nightfall and continued our trip on to Rothenburg.
Jul 17th, 2009, 04:47 PM
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<b>Salt mining, from the low tech devices of early man to the high tech methods of the modern age, in about an hour or so. The Salzwelten, Halstatt</b>
Are there any funiculars in the USA? We could not think of any, although we have taken advantage of the funicular in Quebec City a few times. Anyway, the funicular in Halstatt is impressive viewed from the bottom, very steep and long. We took it to the top and followed the path to the Salzwelten, where we waited about 45 minutes for the tour to begin.
This site was discovered as a source of salt by early hunter/gatherers, who figured out pretty quickly how to extract salt from its ancient sea bed. Over the ages, as the embedded salt on the surface was depleted, the local salt traders developed new methods to extract the salt buried deep in the mountain, eventually using water to flush it out. Now, salt mining at Hallstadt is a high tech industry, extracting salt from many levels below the surface. As someone who much prefers salty, crunchy snacks to sweets, I understand completely the urge to procure salt. One of the highlights of the tour, besides the history lessons illustrated by underground light shows and the wooden slides from one level to another, was the cute little salt shaker containers given out at the end of the tour.
Are there any funiculars in the USA? We could not think of any, although we have taken advantage of the funicular in Quebec City a few times. Anyway, the funicular in Halstatt is impressive viewed from the bottom, very steep and long. We took it to the top and followed the path to the Salzwelten, where we waited about 45 minutes for the tour to begin.
This site was discovered as a source of salt by early hunter/gatherers, who figured out pretty quickly how to extract salt from its ancient sea bed. Over the ages, as the embedded salt on the surface was depleted, the local salt traders developed new methods to extract the salt buried deep in the mountain, eventually using water to flush it out. Now, salt mining at Hallstadt is a high tech industry, extracting salt from many levels below the surface. As someone who much prefers salty, crunchy snacks to sweets, I understand completely the urge to procure salt. One of the highlights of the tour, besides the history lessons illustrated by underground light shows and the wooden slides from one level to another, was the cute little salt shaker containers given out at the end of the tour.
Jul 17th, 2009, 04:51 PM
#5
Looking forward to more especially Ljubljana, Plitvice and Rovinj, since we visited them all last year and stayed at Slamic B&B in Ljubljana, Hotel Plitvice in the park and Porta Antica in Rovinj. Keep it coming!
Jul 21st, 2009, 05:26 PM
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Thank you, maitaitom, for your response. I have to tell you that I referred to your trip report again and again as I was planning the Slovenian and Croatian portion of this vacation. Basically, we booked all three of the accommodations you mention based on your descriptions and we were so glad we did. We loved Ljubljana, and the Slamic B&B was perfect for us - friendly staff, good location, and clean, comfortable room. Ditto Plitvice Lakes and the Hotel Plitvice. Rovinj was an absolutely lovely base for 3 days in Istria, but because we were not staying for longer, we were bumped from the famous apartment #3 at Porta Antica when someone else booked it for a week. We ended up at apartment #9 at La Carera (under the same management). It was a pretty apartment with a harbor view, so we were happy there (although we kept wondering what we were missing at #3).
Also, we followed your example and took the Venezia Lines ferry from Rovinj to Venice. Rovinj was beautiful in the early morning light as we left the harbor, and our first view of Venice when we arrived by sea was exciting. Perfect travel moments!
Thanks again for responding. Your trip report was so helpful to us. Hopefully, I can eventually finish this report and provide some useful information to someone else.
Also, we followed your example and took the Venezia Lines ferry from Rovinj to Venice. Rovinj was beautiful in the early morning light as we left the harbor, and our first view of Venice when we arrived by sea was exciting. Perfect travel moments!
Thanks again for responding. Your trip report was so helpful to us. Hopefully, I can eventually finish this report and provide some useful information to someone else.
Jul 22nd, 2009, 11:10 AM
#7
Glad you liked the Slamic B&B. That was our "find" of the trip. I rave about Plitvice National Park to everyone I know. It is one of the most gorgeous places I have visited in my travels. Looking forward to more!
Jul 22nd, 2009, 11:12 AM
#8
"Also, we followed your example and took the Venezia Lines ferry from Rovinj to Venice. Rovinj was beautiful in the early morning light as we left the harbor..."
Did you sip coffee through a straw?
Did you sip coffee through a straw?
Jul 23rd, 2009, 05:34 PM
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No, we did not sip coffee through a straw. The ride was pretty smooth, thank heavens. My last ferry ride, from Nantucket to Cape Cod, was an uncomfortable up and down experience through pretty choppy seas, and I struggled to overcome seasickness. Remembering that trip, we booked the "Comfort Lounge" on the ferry for an extra charge, thinking the extra measure of "comfort" would be well worth it if seasickness was an issue again. Fortunately, it was not.
Jul 24th, 2009, 03:23 PM
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<b>The Technology We Took With Us: TomTom,/b7
For Christmas last year, Cassie and Matt gave us a TomTom gps system and it proved to be a really useful piece of equipment for this trip. In fact, I don't know how we ever got along without it. Unfortunately, I have a sort of directional dyslexia when it comes to map reading. Traveling down a highway, I often can see absolutely no connection between our actual physical location and our location on the map in my lap, try as I might to pinpoint it. When it comes to deciding, from the information provided by the map in front of me, which exit to take or which road to turn on to, I am, more often than not, totally at a loss. And lost! This disability has caused more than one marital meltdown. Steve is as good a map reader as he is a driver. He even taught map reading years ago the the army. It is hard for him to understand, as he's driving in crazy traffic down a fast highway in a foreign country, why I can't help him get to where we should be going. So he, understandably, loses patience, and I get even more confused as the stress level rises. But the soothing tones of "Ms. TomTom", as we came to call her, saved the day on this trip. Her warm, modulated voice gave us straight-forward directions with plenty of time to prepare for each turn or exit. No urgent cries of "Next left!" or indecisive wavering admissions of "I think that might have been our exit back there". With the help of the interactive map on the device's screen attached to the windshield, she got us to destination every time. We even successfully navigated the twisting little back streets of Rothenburg, driving right up to our hotel with no problems. From the time we left the airport in Frankfort until we turned the rental car in at the Munich airport, TomTom took us where we wanted to go. Again in Croatia, where we picked up our car in Zagreb, until we returned it in Rovinj, we were quided efficiently through town and countryside. There were a few hiccups. Somehow on our way from Goslar to the Autostadt we ended up on the autobahn to Berlin instead of the highway to Wolfsburg. Traveling from Plitvice Lakes to Rovinj, a construction detour sent us off TomTom's route and we went around in circles for awhile before we got back on track.
In order to load Europe into our TomTom we had to unload North America. The program for Europe, which included Germany, Austria and Croatia, cost about $90. Well worth it for us. Now all we have to do it figure out how to load North America back in.
For Christmas last year, Cassie and Matt gave us a TomTom gps system and it proved to be a really useful piece of equipment for this trip. In fact, I don't know how we ever got along without it. Unfortunately, I have a sort of directional dyslexia when it comes to map reading. Traveling down a highway, I often can see absolutely no connection between our actual physical location and our location on the map in my lap, try as I might to pinpoint it. When it comes to deciding, from the information provided by the map in front of me, which exit to take or which road to turn on to, I am, more often than not, totally at a loss. And lost! This disability has caused more than one marital meltdown. Steve is as good a map reader as he is a driver. He even taught map reading years ago the the army. It is hard for him to understand, as he's driving in crazy traffic down a fast highway in a foreign country, why I can't help him get to where we should be going. So he, understandably, loses patience, and I get even more confused as the stress level rises. But the soothing tones of "Ms. TomTom", as we came to call her, saved the day on this trip. Her warm, modulated voice gave us straight-forward directions with plenty of time to prepare for each turn or exit. No urgent cries of "Next left!" or indecisive wavering admissions of "I think that might have been our exit back there". With the help of the interactive map on the device's screen attached to the windshield, she got us to destination every time. We even successfully navigated the twisting little back streets of Rothenburg, driving right up to our hotel with no problems. From the time we left the airport in Frankfort until we turned the rental car in at the Munich airport, TomTom took us where we wanted to go. Again in Croatia, where we picked up our car in Zagreb, until we returned it in Rovinj, we were quided efficiently through town and countryside. There were a few hiccups. Somehow on our way from Goslar to the Autostadt we ended up on the autobahn to Berlin instead of the highway to Wolfsburg. Traveling from Plitvice Lakes to Rovinj, a construction detour sent us off TomTom's route and we went around in circles for awhile before we got back on track.
In order to load Europe into our TomTom we had to unload North America. The program for Europe, which included Germany, Austria and Croatia, cost about $90. Well worth it for us. Now all we have to do it figure out how to load North America back in.
Jul 30th, 2009, 04:11 PM
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<b>Technology we packed - our cell phone</b>
We've never taken a cell phone on any of our European vacations before, thinking it would be too expensive and complicated. Traveling, however, with Cassie and Matt, we thought it would be a good idea if we could keep in touch with them when we were all out and about, doing our own thing. Matt has an I-phone, so he was set, but we weren't sure which phone was best for us. After some research, we discovered that, as Verizon customers, we could rent a phone for 21 days, for a minimal fee, that would function in Europe and also allow us to phone home. Rates varied according to the country we calling from, but the coverage was great, and our bill when we returned home was reasonable. Bottom line: we were so happy to have a phone, especially when we were trying to return our rental car in Rovinj to a mysterious location, located by TomTom but seemingly deserted. After a few desperate phone calls, we figured out which specific driveway we should drive up, where we were happily greeted by the car rental representative. Without that phone, we would have been totally without a clue.
We've never taken a cell phone on any of our European vacations before, thinking it would be too expensive and complicated. Traveling, however, with Cassie and Matt, we thought it would be a good idea if we could keep in touch with them when we were all out and about, doing our own thing. Matt has an I-phone, so he was set, but we weren't sure which phone was best for us. After some research, we discovered that, as Verizon customers, we could rent a phone for 21 days, for a minimal fee, that would function in Europe and also allow us to phone home. Rates varied according to the country we calling from, but the coverage was great, and our bill when we returned home was reasonable. Bottom line: we were so happy to have a phone, especially when we were trying to return our rental car in Rovinj to a mysterious location, located by TomTom but seemingly deserted. After a few desperate phone calls, we figured out which specific driveway we should drive up, where we were happily greeted by the car rental representative. Without that phone, we would have been totally without a clue.
Aug 3rd, 2009, 05:40 PM
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Final Footnote - German Technology
Last year, Steve purchased a copper pot still from the Carl Company, Germany's oldest still fabricator, with the intention of using it to produce vodka from apples grown on our farm in upstate New York. The company is located in Eislingen, not far from Rothenburg, where we planned to spend the night on our way from Oberwesel to Berchtesgaden, so we made an appointment to stop in at the factory the next morning. We were greeted so warmly and given a fascinating tour of the facility, where beautiful copper stills are produced using a combination of old world craftsmanship and modern technology. The visit ended with a bountiful lunch at a nearby restaurant, where our host ordered just about everything on the menu, which was served to us family style. Bowls of venison in wine sauce, pork with mushrooms, boiled beef, really delicious noodles, french fries, red cabbage, slaw, and more. Valiantly, we dug in. I never thought we could make much of a dent in so much food, but we did. Many empty dishes signaled the end to a memorable meal and some really special hospitality.
Last year, Steve purchased a copper pot still from the Carl Company, Germany's oldest still fabricator, with the intention of using it to produce vodka from apples grown on our farm in upstate New York. The company is located in Eislingen, not far from Rothenburg, where we planned to spend the night on our way from Oberwesel to Berchtesgaden, so we made an appointment to stop in at the factory the next morning. We were greeted so warmly and given a fascinating tour of the facility, where beautiful copper stills are produced using a combination of old world craftsmanship and modern technology. The visit ended with a bountiful lunch at a nearby restaurant, where our host ordered just about everything on the menu, which was served to us family style. Bowls of venison in wine sauce, pork with mushrooms, boiled beef, really delicious noodles, french fries, red cabbage, slaw, and more. Valiantly, we dug in. I never thought we could make much of a dent in so much food, but we did. Many empty dishes signaled the end to a memorable meal and some really special hospitality.
Aug 13th, 2009, 07:06 PM
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<b>Highlights - Germany</b>
The highlights of our trip to Germany were hugh - just like the Alps we saw every morning from our window in Berchtesgaden - so I would like to share them with you here.
1. Highlight #1: the sight of our daughter running down the stairs toward us at the airport in Frankfort. She was beautiful. Even after flight delays from Louisville and Detroit, she was glowing, and so enthusiastic about the adventure before us. And Matt, although this was probably not the adventure he would have chosen, was game for whatever the next 10 days would deliver.
2. We had never heard of Goslar, an Unesco World Heritage site in the Harz Mountains, until we started researching a place to stay near the Autostadt. Goslar was lovely, with half-timbered houses on narrow winding streets, a small but energetic river running though it, and a traffic free town square centered on a fountain featuring a funny little gilded eagle. Except for a few German tourists out and about, it felt pretty much undiscovered. We stayed at the Hotel Kaiserworth, built as a guildhouse in 1496 and decorated on the exterior with life-size statues and a bold color scheme. The rooms we originally booked were located at the back of the hotel and less expensive, but when we checked in we were upgraded to rooms facing the marketplace. Thank you! We could open our leaded glass windows, lean out, and watch all the action on the square. The second day we were there, the hotel hosted a wedding reception, and we felt like part of the party as we viewed the festivities from our window. Each morning, we watched day begin in the square, as waiters set up cafe tables and people walked their dogs or set out with shopping bags to pick up provisions for the day. There was one drawback related to our proximity to the square. As we usually do after a transatlantic flight, we settled down for a short nap after checking into our room. We were just dozing off, when the Glockenspiel across the square began chiming. At every pause, we were sure the bells would stop ringing, but no. It went on for fifteen minutes or more, making sleep all but impossible. The next morning after breakfast, however, we made sure we were in the square at 9:00 a.m., when the Glockenspiel went into action again. Needless to say, we enjoyed it much more than we had the afternoon before. Speaking of breakfast, the Hotel Kaiserworth's breakfast was one of the best we've had. It was a seemingly endless buffet of eggs, bacon, sausage, cold cuts, cheeses, pastries, yogurt, cereals, etc. etc., all beautifully served in silver chafing dishes or in pretty baskets on linen tablecloths. A great way to start the day!
The highlights of our trip to Germany were hugh - just like the Alps we saw every morning from our window in Berchtesgaden - so I would like to share them with you here.
1. Highlight #1: the sight of our daughter running down the stairs toward us at the airport in Frankfort. She was beautiful. Even after flight delays from Louisville and Detroit, she was glowing, and so enthusiastic about the adventure before us. And Matt, although this was probably not the adventure he would have chosen, was game for whatever the next 10 days would deliver.
2. We had never heard of Goslar, an Unesco World Heritage site in the Harz Mountains, until we started researching a place to stay near the Autostadt. Goslar was lovely, with half-timbered houses on narrow winding streets, a small but energetic river running though it, and a traffic free town square centered on a fountain featuring a funny little gilded eagle. Except for a few German tourists out and about, it felt pretty much undiscovered. We stayed at the Hotel Kaiserworth, built as a guildhouse in 1496 and decorated on the exterior with life-size statues and a bold color scheme. The rooms we originally booked were located at the back of the hotel and less expensive, but when we checked in we were upgraded to rooms facing the marketplace. Thank you! We could open our leaded glass windows, lean out, and watch all the action on the square. The second day we were there, the hotel hosted a wedding reception, and we felt like part of the party as we viewed the festivities from our window. Each morning, we watched day begin in the square, as waiters set up cafe tables and people walked their dogs or set out with shopping bags to pick up provisions for the day. There was one drawback related to our proximity to the square. As we usually do after a transatlantic flight, we settled down for a short nap after checking into our room. We were just dozing off, when the Glockenspiel across the square began chiming. At every pause, we were sure the bells would stop ringing, but no. It went on for fifteen minutes or more, making sleep all but impossible. The next morning after breakfast, however, we made sure we were in the square at 9:00 a.m., when the Glockenspiel went into action again. Needless to say, we enjoyed it much more than we had the afternoon before. Speaking of breakfast, the Hotel Kaiserworth's breakfast was one of the best we've had. It was a seemingly endless buffet of eggs, bacon, sausage, cold cuts, cheeses, pastries, yogurt, cereals, etc. etc., all beautifully served in silver chafing dishes or in pretty baskets on linen tablecloths. A great way to start the day!
Aug 15th, 2009, 09:02 AM
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I tremendously enjoyed reading your trip report. It's completely new point of view - of Germany and how it's sights and sounds are received by foreigners.
I am quite glad you enjoyed it!
I bookmarked almost all your hotels and venues in order to have it - one day I have time and travel my home country! Thanks for that!
SV
I am quite glad you enjoyed it!
I bookmarked almost all your hotels and venues in order to have it - one day I have time and travel my home country! Thanks for that!
SV
Aug 15th, 2009, 09:19 AM
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Thanks. This is the best Fodor's travelogue in months. You visited places in Germany that this veteran of 30 years of German vacationing has yet to see. And they sound fascinating. I can't tell you how many times we've whizzed by that tech museum in Sinsheim. Never bothered to stop but now wish we had.
I eagerly await reading more and am already seriously considering booking your entire intinerary for our yearly Christmas vacation in 2010.
I eagerly await reading more and am already seriously considering booking your entire intinerary for our yearly Christmas vacation in 2010.
Aug 20th, 2009, 04:42 PM
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Thank you, spassvogel and Zeus, for your kind comments. I do recommend this itinerary, which was almost perfect for us, but I can't take credit for it. If we hadn't been traveling with our daughter and son-in-law, we would probably have mapped out an entirely different route on this trip to Germany. However, adjusting our plans to their fresh ideas and varied interests really paid off for us. It is amazing how much we can learn when we venture a bit outside our comfort zone. But really, isn't that what travel is all about?
Aug 20th, 2009, 06:56 PM
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<b>Highlights-Germany-Continued: the Castle Hotel auf Schoenburg</b>
When Cassie and her twin sister, Caitlin, were 15 years old, we took them on a memorable family vacation to Europe, traveling through Germany, Austria, Switzerland and France. One special memory of that trip for Cassie was our stay at the Castle Hotel Schoenburg in Oberwesel on the Rhine, and she hoped we could work out a way to spend one night there on this trip, even though it was a bit out of our way. We thought it was a great idea. We love that part of the Rhine, and got to know it well when Steve was stationed near Mainz while serving in the army many years ago. (Cassie and Cait, by the way, were born in Weisbaden.) So we made reservations, booking Cassie and Matt a riverview room as a special 10th anniversary gift and booking ourselves a room with a courtyard view. Steve and I, like Cassie, had good memories of our long ago night at the Hotel Schoenburg. The four of us had stayed in a huge room at the top of a tower. Almost as soon as we settled in, a thunderstorm rumbled in, absolutely dramatic as seen from our tower window, and definitely memorable. As Matt drove up the long driveway to the hotel this time, I worried that we might be disappointed in the Schoenburg on this trip. Almost 24 years had passed since that last visit and our expectations were high. We could easily be disappointed. Thankfully, we most definitely were not! It is a beautiful place to stay, still. The castle is well cared for, with interesting public rooms, perfectly furnished as a castle should be, and outdoor spaces and courtyards with amazing views. We arrived on a Sunday afternoon, and the luncheon crowd had filled up the parking lot, but we checked in and were shown to our rooms in no time. Cassie and Matt's room was impressive, with a canopy bed and a balcony that looked toward the courtyard, plus the aforementioned river view. Our room, however, was really special. Called the Guards Lodge, it looked like a little cottage attached to the castle wall, with a terrace under an arbor, outfitted with a small table and two chairs and a view of steep, terraced vineyards. Inside, the little seating area provided a loveseat with a cocktail table and a desk. The bed was tucked into an alcove. Bookshelves covered two walls up to the peaked ceiling. The bathroom was outfitted with a large marble tub with faucets held by marble cherubs. Amazing. We spent the afternoon wandering the castle grounds with Cassie and Matt, hiking down to the town (and back up again) before it began to rain. After a good dinner together in the hotel dining room, Steve and I retired to our stone cottage in the wall, listened to classical music on the CD player, and watched the rain mist the vineyards below us. Magical! So once again, we have a beautiful memory of a rainy night spent at the Hotel Schoenburg. Hopefully, some day we will visit the castle again, and hopefully, it will rain.
When Cassie and her twin sister, Caitlin, were 15 years old, we took them on a memorable family vacation to Europe, traveling through Germany, Austria, Switzerland and France. One special memory of that trip for Cassie was our stay at the Castle Hotel Schoenburg in Oberwesel on the Rhine, and she hoped we could work out a way to spend one night there on this trip, even though it was a bit out of our way. We thought it was a great idea. We love that part of the Rhine, and got to know it well when Steve was stationed near Mainz while serving in the army many years ago. (Cassie and Cait, by the way, were born in Weisbaden.) So we made reservations, booking Cassie and Matt a riverview room as a special 10th anniversary gift and booking ourselves a room with a courtyard view. Steve and I, like Cassie, had good memories of our long ago night at the Hotel Schoenburg. The four of us had stayed in a huge room at the top of a tower. Almost as soon as we settled in, a thunderstorm rumbled in, absolutely dramatic as seen from our tower window, and definitely memorable. As Matt drove up the long driveway to the hotel this time, I worried that we might be disappointed in the Schoenburg on this trip. Almost 24 years had passed since that last visit and our expectations were high. We could easily be disappointed. Thankfully, we most definitely were not! It is a beautiful place to stay, still. The castle is well cared for, with interesting public rooms, perfectly furnished as a castle should be, and outdoor spaces and courtyards with amazing views. We arrived on a Sunday afternoon, and the luncheon crowd had filled up the parking lot, but we checked in and were shown to our rooms in no time. Cassie and Matt's room was impressive, with a canopy bed and a balcony that looked toward the courtyard, plus the aforementioned river view. Our room, however, was really special. Called the Guards Lodge, it looked like a little cottage attached to the castle wall, with a terrace under an arbor, outfitted with a small table and two chairs and a view of steep, terraced vineyards. Inside, the little seating area provided a loveseat with a cocktail table and a desk. The bed was tucked into an alcove. Bookshelves covered two walls up to the peaked ceiling. The bathroom was outfitted with a large marble tub with faucets held by marble cherubs. Amazing. We spent the afternoon wandering the castle grounds with Cassie and Matt, hiking down to the town (and back up again) before it began to rain. After a good dinner together in the hotel dining room, Steve and I retired to our stone cottage in the wall, listened to classical music on the CD player, and watched the rain mist the vineyards below us. Magical! So once again, we have a beautiful memory of a rainy night spent at the Hotel Schoenburg. Hopefully, some day we will visit the castle again, and hopefully, it will rain.
Aug 21st, 2009, 03:23 AM
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Candace
How lucky I was to have read your TR!
Last Monday I drove from our home (Rheinland - between Duesseldorf and Cologne) towards Speyer and made a stop at Burg Schoenburg. The drive up was worth the detour! Great location and wonderfully restored castle.
Regrettably we (my mother an me) could only have a drink (no lunch because Monday is only dinner service for hotel guests ) in the small kind of courtyard. But still - I grabbed a brochure and we enjoyed the (SLOW - my mom is 85) walk from the parking lot up to the castle.
The rates they ask are rather on the expensive side - but I don't know what you get for these rates as the whole place was occupied and I therefore couldn't have a look at the rooms
But there will be a next time..............
Again: THX for the tip!
SV
How lucky I was to have read your TR!
Last Monday I drove from our home (Rheinland - between Duesseldorf and Cologne) towards Speyer and made a stop at Burg Schoenburg. The drive up was worth the detour! Great location and wonderfully restored castle.
Regrettably we (my mother an me) could only have a drink (no lunch because Monday is only dinner service for hotel guests ) in the small kind of courtyard. But still - I grabbed a brochure and we enjoyed the (SLOW - my mom is 85) walk from the parking lot up to the castle.
The rates they ask are rather on the expensive side - but I don't know what you get for these rates as the whole place was occupied and I therefore couldn't have a look at the rooms
But there will be a next time..............
Again: THX for the tip!
SV
Aug 23rd, 2009, 06:11 PM
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I am glad, spassvogel, that you had the opportunity to visit the Burg Schoenburg. I think it is definitely worth a detour. You are right. It is rather on the expensive side. It was our "splurge" hotel stay on our trip so many years ago and again on our last trip. But we certainly felt, both times, that it was worth the extra expense. Staying in a beautifully restored castle in a spectacular location overlooking the Rhine, in lovely room with great service, makes for a truly memorable experience.
We can relate to your slow walk up to the castle with your mother. Every summer for the last 16 years, Steve and I have taken a long weekend trip with both our mothers. His mom is 89, mine is in her early 80's. We usually travel to a destination in New England. (The coast of Maine is a favorite.) Each year, our pace slows a little and we spend more time relaxing and enjoying the view than sightseeing. But even if the pace is slower, our mothers' enthusiasm is as strong as ever, and we have a great time. I hope I am still a happy traveler when I am in my eighties!
We can relate to your slow walk up to the castle with your mother. Every summer for the last 16 years, Steve and I have taken a long weekend trip with both our mothers. His mom is 89, mine is in her early 80's. We usually travel to a destination in New England. (The coast of Maine is a favorite.) Each year, our pace slows a little and we spend more time relaxing and enjoying the view than sightseeing. But even if the pace is slower, our mothers' enthusiasm is as strong as ever, and we have a great time. I hope I am still a happy traveler when I am in my eighties!
