Candace, I love your description of the market in Ceret. I was able to visualize what everything looked like. Your trip is the trip of a lifetime. I appreciate your adventurous spirit; you took on a lot traveling to 3 different countries, and visiting so many different places. I especially liked reading about the small towns.

It's always wonderful, isn't it. no matter where you've been, to be back in Paris?

Thank you both, Karen and St. Cirq, for your support while I have been writing this report. Reliving our trip this way has been wonderful. I'm a little sad it's almost over.

Karen, you are right. This trip was pretty intensive and a lot to take on. I'm planning that our next trip to Sicily will be simpler with fewer days in transit and more time spent in one place.

St. Cirq, it is absolutely wonderful to be in Paris. Next year or the year after, I would love to spend early December experiencing all the beauty of Paris at Christmas.

Maybe we'll join you:)

Hi, Candace. Just found this and am marking to read later. Smart of you to rent a car to airport. "Economy Parking" costs plenty.

OUR LAST DAY IN PARIS

Morning in Paris dawned cold and overcast. After breakfast at the hotel, we bundled up against the elements and began what I believe must have been miles of walking around the city. Our first stop was at a nearby shop where we bought a black and gray striped scarf for Steve. The scarf served two purposes. First it kept Steve warmer and second, it gave him the appearance of a true Parisien. There were very few men on the streets of Paris who weren't wrapped in a scarf.

Next we crossed over in front of the large and imposing Hotel de Ville and walked on to Le BHV department store on the rue de Rivoli. Last time we were in Paris we had discovered in the toy department there some great little figures of knights in shining armour with their horses for our grandson. He loved them so we decided to add to his collection. For our granddaughter, we found a pretty pink shirt featuring ballerinas along with matching tights. We added a pink beret from a souvenir shop to complete her outfit. Our shopping done, we returned to the hotel to drop off our purchases. The weather hadn't improved much but we headed off along the Seine anyway, toward the Musee d'Orsay. We had visited the Orsay on a previous trip to Paris and we were looking forward to a revisit.

We hadn't walked too far along the river before the overcast skies gave it up to a steady rain. Fortunately we were very near a favorite corner cafe, so we ducked inside. Perfect timing. Ready for lunch, we grabbed a table by a window and placed our order for soup and a sandwich. By the time we finished our meal, the rain had stopped and we could continue our hike to the Orsay.

When we arrived at the museum, I realized I had committed an error befitting the most unseasoned tourist. I had never checked the museum's hours of operation and it was closed on Tuesdays. So there we were. Okay, the Rodin Museum wasn't that much further. Maybe we'd go there. Except it too was closed.

Walking rather aimlessly, we soon found ourselves in a distinguished neighborhood of foreign embassies and French ministry buildings. This was the first time in Paris that we really noticed a police presence. Of course it made sense in this area of government buildings. Uniformed policemen patrolled the streets in groups and we noticed a few men who might even have been working undercover. This brought to mind a scene we remembered from our first trip to Paris years ago. Strolling along the Champs de elysees on our very first day in the city, we saw barricades being erected and lots of police activity along the way. It looked like the whole street was gradually being closed to traffic. We stopped to watch and asked what was going on. These were preparations, we were told, for the motorcade of Queen Elizabeth and Prince Phillip, who were visiting Paris for the celebration of ? (can't remember).
While we watched, and waited for the appearance of royalty, we noticed one motorcycle pass by over and over again, driven by a very scruffy looking man, unshaven and donned in a well worn old leather jacket. Why does he keep coming around, Steve asked? Finally he wondered, "is he an undercover guy?" Then, sure enough, just before the Queen and her entourage motored by in an open car, this man on his motorcycle, disreputable looking as he was, swept by one last time and behind him the street was totally cleared, empty of any other traffic. So this time in Paris, when we saw a man on Embassy Row, riding a skate board down the street among the policemen, talking into his collar, we thought! "A Ha! ". But then again, if we could pick this skateboarder out as an undercover cop, how good was his cover. If he couldn't fool us, could he fool a terrorist?

Finally we turned around, found the Blvd. St Germain, and followed it back toward the Isle St Louis. We had a long way to go, but we broke up the walk with another cafe stop, this time for a beer and a glass of wine. Further on, we ducked into a beautiful little shop selling macaroons, and bought some deep pink and lime green ones to snack on as we walked. When we finally made it back to our hotel room, we collapsed til dinner time. We had already decided to try a restaurant almost next door to the hotel. The Sorza offered primarily Italian cuisine, but actually the idea of sharing a pizza and going to bed early in preparation for our big travel day tomorrow made sense. The pizza was delicious and we had a good night's sleep, so we were up early and ready to tackle the long trip home in the morning.

St. Cirq, sounds like a great idea! Paris at Christmas must be incredible. The beautifully decorated department stores alone must be gorgeous. Then the Christmas markets and the special lighting everywhere all look amazing.

TDudette, the car rental at the airport has worked out well for us, except on the trip home this last time, when no cars were available. More on that to come.

Hi Candace,

What a wonderful trip! Thank you so much for posting. We have decided to add the Basque area into our April plans and follow in your footsteps before going to Barcelona. You didn't mention the name of your apt. In St. Jean de Luz, is that a detail that you still have documented? I have been looking and can't find many smaller places that allow less than a 7 night stay. Much less one with a view over a marina. Something we love and have fond memories of during a long ago stay in Rovinj.

Glad to hear you are planning a trip to Sicily. We were there for a little over three weeks last year. Would be happy to pass on our lodging details if you are interested. Still waiting to hear the end of your car rental at the airport....

-Annie

Thanks, Annie. Glad to hear you have enjoyed our report. I would love to know where you stayed in Sicily. We have one apartment already booked in Ortigia and also a few hotel rooms reserved but that's about it.

In Ciboure, we booked through AIrbnb. If you do a search for "Ciboure, over St Jean de Luz harbor, quiet", the apartment we rented from Elisabeth should pop up. However, when I just looked the listing up, I noticed she now has a 7 day minimum stay policy. We stayed for only 3 nights in April last year. Maybe the 7 day limit isn't firm and she would accommodate you in the off season. We really enjoyed this location. (And we too stayed in a place on the harbor in Rovinj years ago.)

AGAIN, FLYING IS NO FUN - THE TRIP HOME

For 65 Euros, the Hotel Saint-Louis en I'Isle provides a shuttle service to the airport. We arranged to leave for Charles de Gaulle from the hotel at 9:45 for our 1:20 American Airlines flight to Philadelphia. We shared the shuttle bus with an engaging young American couple who were also flying home, and so we had a pleasant ride to the airport chatting with them.

We had flown out of Charles de Gaulle a few years before, and had faced long lines and controlled chaos at security check points, so we were dreading the whole experience that now loomed before us. This time, however, the lines weren't so bad and security seemed somewhat less nerve wracking. We got to our gate with plenty of time to spare. Even the boarding process went fairly smoothly and we were soon settled in for the very long afternoon which is always part of the flight home. I enjoyed a movie, finished a book on my iPad, wrote in my journal, and then we were landing in Philadelphia, right on schedule. So far, our trip home was going pretty well. And then it wasn't.

Ahead of us we knew we faced the whole re-entry to the U.S. experience with long lines at passport control and customs, but we had our newly obtained Global Entry status, which after $100 each and a day trip to Buffalo, should expedite things for us. Right? Not quite. Somehow, we were the lucky couple singled out for a random check of Global Entry participants. We were escorted into a special cordoned off area where our suitcases and backpacks were carefully searched for (I guess) contraband. Was that little jar of red pepper sauce I had purchased in Espelette okay to bring into the States? I began to worry that it might be a prohibited farm product. It wasn't, but the whole thing was rather nerve wracking. The agent who did the searching through our stuff was pleasant and apologetic during the whole procedure. But, hey! We had never been submitted to this sort of thing when we just had plain old "regular entry" status.

Oh well, we packed our things back up and were soon wending our way through the rest of the re-entry system to emerge finally into the terminal with almost 5 hours to kill before our flight to Syracuse. Except that our flight was delayed due to thunderstorms in Philadelphia. Then it was delayed again, and then again. Five hours stretched to eight hours. Weeks before, when we had problems renting a car in Syracuse as we usually do for the drive home from the airport, my sister and brother-in-law had volunteered to pick us up. We took them up on the offer, but when the 8:30 pick up time became an 11:30 pick up time, we called and told them thanks anyway, go to bed. We would take a cab home.

Eight hours is a very long time to spend in the Philadelphia airport. We found a little wine bar where we each ordered a glass of wine. It was very nice wine, but the bill for 2 glasses totaled over $30. Wow! We vacated that place quickly, dreaming of our favorite cafes in Paris where the wine was just as good and lots less pricey. I can't even remember where we had dinner. We were really starting to drag.

Speaking of dragging, we had decided that we would check our bags through to Syracuse when we had the opportunity, rather then having to drag them around the airport as we waited for our next flight. Wouldn't you know, when we finally arrived in Syracuse, our luggage did not. Our bags had missed the flight and would be on the next plane from Philly, we were told. Did we want to wait for them? Not really, but we did. Finally, bags in hand, we climbed into a cab for the 30 minute ride home, which cost us close to $100. It almost 1:00 when we finally walked through our front door, totally and completely exhausted. Finally, home.

Home, with memories of a really spectacular trip. As much as flying is no fun, I would never give it up, for I could never give up traveling. I hope to make one more entry for this trip report, highlighting all the best of this adventure through Portugal, Spain, and France for those who are interested.

Candace, so sorry to hear about your delayed flight from Philadelphia, but I agree with you; I would never give up flying, despite all its trials and tribulations, because that would mean giving up traveling.

I would love to read about your highlights of this exciting trip, so please do make one more entry!
Thank you.

So sorry about your Philly airport experience. Particularly getting stopped at Global Entry. I guess someone has misused the system. What is wrong with people? Grrr.

Thanks for the TR! Where to next???

Karen, I know that everyone who flies very often has encountered problems and delays. I've learned to accept the occasional hassles as part of the process, so I am not really complaining, knowing that on-schedule, straightforward flights are usually the norm. I'm always hoping for the best. It is just that the problem trips are so memorable. Our worst was many years ago and we will never forget it. Flying home from San Francisco, we were stuck on the runway for hours in Chicago in the middle of a snowstorm. When the plane finally made it back to an available gate, it was close to midnight and the airline's customer service personnel had all gone home. By then, every seat in the terminal was occupied by displaced passengers and we ended up sitting most of the night on a baggage conveyer, the only soft place to sit we could find. The next morning, we scored a flight home via Newark, but were told by the ticket agent that the storm was probably headed that way. He was right. In Newark, we boarded the plane bound for Syracuse, only to sit on the runway again for over an hour before the flight was cancelled. This time, the plane hadn't left the gate and we could get right off and head into the terminal. Thank heavens, the airline arranged for a hotel room this time, so we didn't have to spend the night again in the terminal. We made it to our final destination the next afternoon, well over two days after we started out. Wow, were we glad to finally be home.

TDudette, we are hoping our Global Entry will go smoothly next time. We are planning a trip in April to Sicily. Our plan is to spend two weeks in Sicily, then to spend our final week traveling up to Rome via the Amalfi coast and Naples.

HIGHLIGHTS AND MEMORABLE MOMENTS

I thought it might be fun to do a short list of our trip's highlights, those special places and sights that, months after the trip is over, are still so delightful to remember. We loved so much about our trip but the following are the standout memories.

PORTUGAL

1. SINTRA AT NIGHT - I know that many people see Sintra as a day trip from Lisbon, but we were so glad we didn't miss the magic of Sintra at night. The Moorish Castle was so beautifully lit, and was so high above the town that when we gazed up at it, it appeared to us as if the gates of heaven were beginning to open, pouring celestial light out into the sky. As we headed up the promenade toward the old town, the marble statuary along the road glowed softly against the shadows, and the Palacio Nacional, with its unique cone like towers, was also beautifully illuminated. Magical and memorable.

2. THE RIBEIRA DISTRICT OF PORTO - We stayed in Room #31 at the Ribeira do Porto Hotel, and when we walked out onto our balcony upon arrival the colorful scene before us was pulsing with energy and music. In the square below, street performers were singing and strumming, and waiters were bustling around diners at outdoor tables. Little brightly painted houses were stacked up like a child's blocks around the square and funny old fashioned boats floated under the iron bridge with its Eiffel-type ironwork spanning the river. The Cathedral beyond was bathed in turquoise light at nightfall, as lights twinkled on the bridge and the river shimmered in the dark. Again, it was all magical and memorable and I would highly recommend this hotel room.

3. THE DOURO VALLEY AND THE HILLS ABOVE IT - This river, as we followed it by train from the little town of Pinhao to the industrial village of Pocinho, seemed to be unchanged through history, with vineyards and olive groves climbing its banks now just as they did in ancient times. Time seemed to stand still in many places along the river and the effect was special and lovely. In the hills and little villages above the river where we stayed there was also a timeless feel. One afternoon we walked along a narrow dirt road behind a little old peasant woman. She was dressed in a black skirt and stockings with a striped kerchief and she climbed the dirt path in such a strong and resolute way that we knew she must have done it in just the same way many times before.

Next, I hope to finish with the highlights of Basque Country and the Pyrenees, along with Ceret and Paris.

Hi Candace,

Am following along after a brief hiatus....so sorry for the late reply to our earlier conversation about Sicily. As for St. Jean de Luz, we found another place to allow a 4 day stay, so I am looking forward to your highlights from that region.��

As for Sicily, we absolutely loved our top floor studio in Ortygia. The terrace was so close to the water that we could see the waves splashing on the rocks. We rented from a private company and if you Google Riva Levante Veranda you should find it easily. In Giardina Naxos we stayed at B&B Miramare in a sea view room with a balcony big enough for sitting. The car was parked in a secure area and we used public transportation to get easily to Taormina and Catania. Would stay there again in a heartbeat.

As for Agrigento, we decided again to stay out of the fray and closer to the water at Villa Cetta B&B. Very easy to see the sites and the owner has some fabulous suggestions for restaurants. In Marsala we booked the Best Western in the Old City. It was little hard to find, but they parked our car and we happily didn't see it for three days. We took the ferry to the Egadi Islands and played around town. Great location. As for our stays in Erice and Palermo, I am sure you could find better. Although they certainly were not bad, they just weren't memorable hotel experiences...

BTW, I agree totally with your impressions of the Douro Valley...timeless indeed!

Cheers,
-Annie

Anniemaki, I'm glad you found a good place to stay for four days in St. Jean de Luz. I know you will enjoy the town and the area.

Thanks for your suggestions for lodgings in Sicily. We have already booked an apartment in Ortygia, which I hope we like as much as you liked yours. We have already booked in Agrigento, also. In Palermo, we reserved a room at the Massimo Plaza Hotel. I'm hoping that is NOT where you stayed, as you were not impressed with your Palermo hotel.

The rest of our trip is still not finalized. I like the idea of the B&B Miramare in Giardina Naxos toward the end of our trip. Hadn't considered Marsala but now I am going to look into it.

Thanks again for your input.

HIGHLIGHTS AND MEMORABLE MOMENTS - BASQUE COUNTRY

1. San Sebastian

I believe this must be one of the most beautiful cities in Europe. Anyone who is planning a visit to San Sebastian should consider reserving a balcony room at the elegant Hotel de y Inglaterre. This was, for us, the perfect place to relax and enjoy the lovely scenic views in every direction, plus do some serious people watching. The promenade below the balcony and the beach beyond were always full of activity. Some people were enjoying the sand and the sea while others were undertaking their daily constitutionals on the walkway of the promenade. One sight I will never forget was the trio of older ladies in prim bathing suits and caps who, one by one, waded into the chilly waves (it was April!) and struck out across the bay with strong and measured strokes. I surely did admire them.

2. St. Jean de Luz Fishing Harbor from the Ciboure Side

We stayed in an apartment smack dap in the middle of what was left of the fishing industry in St. Jean. Like so many fishing ports everywhere, we were told that the number of boats going out each day in St. Jean was greatly reduced from what it used to be. None the less, we found it so interesting to watch the comings and goings of those boats that remain, plus all the rest of the activity harbor side. Late one afternoon, as a boat was loading up on ice at the big machine across from our apartment, we watched a car pull up, driven by a young woman with two young children in the back seat. The woman got out and began unloading boxes piled high with produce and groceries. As soon as the provisions were packed onto the boat by one of the two men on board, he jumped off, gave her a kiss and a hug, waved to the kids, and leaped back onto the boat as it pulled away. The sun was setting brilliantly behind the harbor as the boat headed out to sea. For us, it was a little glimpse into the lives of the men and women who must work so hard to make their living from the sea.

3. The Circuit Drive Through Three Basque Towns

This easy drive was a great way to see these three pretty little towns, Sare, Ainhoa, and Espelette, and experience some of the French Basque countryside. Although alike in architectural style, with half-timbered houses and public buildings, each village was worth seeing on its own. I was most struck by the church in Sare, with its dark interior highlighted by bits of gold, and its pretty churchyard, decorated with pastel porcelain flowers. Ainhoa, just opening up after lunchtime, seemed very quiet but provided us with a pleasant stroll up and down the main street. Espelette was strung with red peppers, just as I had hoped it would be. Back home, weeks later, we used the bottled red pepper sauce we purchased in Espelette to spice up some chicken breasts for dinner. Food can make for good memories. This one was delicious.

HIGHLIGHTS AND MEMORABLE MOMENTS - THE PYRENEES

1. The Cottage in Loudet

Enjoying the comfort of this perfectly renovated little cottage in the midst of the French countryside was something special. The few tourist sites nearby were so low key that we had them totally to ourselves. At the ruins of the Roman villa at Montmaurin, it was very neat to walk alone among the marble columns and the sunken ruins of the baths of a luxurious Roman manor house now grown over with grass and wildflowers. Our cottage itself was in such a lovely place, surrounded by farmland and pastures, with the Pyrenees off in the distance. Totally peaceful. For Steve, a true highlight of the cottage was the host, Brian, who is an avid biker. Brian owns a bike similar to one the 2015 winner of the Tour rode and he has ridden many of the Tour routes himself. Steve was full of questions that Brian was happy to answer.

2. Our Mini Tour of the Tour

Even if someone is not a fan of the Tour de France, he would have to be impressed by the heights those cyclists climb through the high Pyrenees. For us, it was certainly exciting once we found our way up into the mountains via some very steep roads. The fog on the Col de Tourmalet turned exciting into scary, and we will certainly never forget that one huge and looming peak that briefly appeared for one show-stopping moment.

3. The Town of Arreau

We stopped in this town to briefly eat a lunch we had packed at the cottage. We parked near, I think, the town hall, and ate in the car, as we were in a hurry to continue on our tour. But I took a minute to get our of the car and walk up toward the little river roaring its way through the middle of town. The town, the river, the little bridge were all so pretty and picturesque that it has stuck like a postcard picture in my head. I won't forget it, so we will have to go back and really see Arreau some day.

HIGHLIGHTS AND MEMORABLE MOMENTS - CERET

1. The Squares of Ceret

Huge plane trees, with their naked trunks, shelter the main square and the hidden little squares of Ceret, where cafe tables spill out onto the sidewalks. Older ladies, perfectly dressed, pat small dogs sitting happily under their chairs. Older men smoke over little glasses of something strong. Young people hurry by, then settle quickly, chatting on phones and with each other. We settled in, too, happy to be there.

2. Nearby Places

Both within easy driving distance, the towns of Collioure and Prats de Mollo, are in opposite directions and provided us with very different experiences. Collioure was a very attractive seaside town, bustling with plenty of tourists, even in April, enjoying the historic sites, the restaurants and shops and the beaches. Prats de Mollo, up the river among the mountains, also with historic buildings, walls and churches, was much quieter. The cobblestone streets of Prats de Mollo were lined with old houses and had an aura of a forgotten past, although there was a main square with restaurants and shops opened for business. We enjoyed visiting both towns and appreciated what each had to offer.

3. The Saturday Market

The colors, sounds and delicious smells of Ceret's Saturday market were all wonderful. I wish I could visit it every week in reality but I do visit it still in my memory.

HIGHLIGHTS OF PARIS

Even with cold and rainy weather, even with museums closed on the only day we could visit, even with long walks when we were a little bit lost, we loved Paris and always find highlights and memories everywhere.

So, finally, I am finished with this trip report. I know I dragged it out but I found it hard to let it go. We just enjoyed this trip so much. Thanks for following.

What a great trip you had! Thank you so much for your very detailed report. We will be doing something similar later this spring and are now considering taking the night train from Lisbon to San Sebastian. How did you get tickets for this train? I find the Renfe site fairly confusing. We had thought we would fly to somewhere near SS, but the schedules are not convenient and most flights are pretty pricy.

What a great trip you had! Thank you so much for your very detailed report. We will be doing something similar later this spring and are now considering taking the night train from Lisbon to San Sebastian. How did you get tickets for this train? I find the Renfe site fairly confusing. We had thought we would fly to somewhere near SS, but the schedules are not convenient and most flights are pretty pricy.

Not sure how I posted twice.