HaHa, Ann, That reminds me of Americans who speak loudly when they encounter someone who speaks no English! Good memory! I did begin that translation thread about Le Zie. I don't think they connected me with the e-mail, though, but who knows! So many of the words are alike in those two languages that if I am stuck in Italy I always break into some kind of bizarre combination of Spanish and Italian. They understand me but then often the person answers in Italian and I can follow only a few words. I understand the directional words, and of course, the food terms but I wold hate to hear a tape recording of myself trying to speak Italian!

Chazz: I hope that works out for you because I bet that Catania would be a terrific place to spend a few years. I think it gets a bad rap tourism wise but I've heard from a couple of people who know the city that it is really a great town.

Everyone told us that the beaches get packed in August.

So many of the words are alike in those two languages that if I am stuck in Italy I always break into some kind of bizarre combination of Spanish and Italian. >>

I did the same in Spain, combining my [just ok] italian with my very rudimentary spanish. it seemed to work, in that we generally got what we wanted, when we wanted it.

and when we were completely lost on our last night in Seville, I was able to ask for directions, AND understand the answer! but tryingto separate the two languages in my head is quite beyond me.

Eks - another wonderful report. You have convinced me to return to Puglia next spring!

However, just one question - did you learn to play burraco when there?!!!

Nochblad: You got me on that one! I've never heard of it--is this something like poker?
Thanks for the comments on the report--I will finish up soon!

The Torre Maizza was a big splurge for us but we were enchanted from the very first minute. The hotel is a complex of historic masseria buldings combined with new additions housing the guest rooms. Our room was noting short of palatial, with a vaulted stone ceiling, sitting area with fireplace (stacked wood provided), massive bathroom (with two washstands) and private outdoor space with two loungers. The handsome whitewashed buildings were embellished with incredible flowering vines and grape arbors and dwarf citrus trees and exotic succulents stood in giant terra cotta pots along the pebbled paths. But one of the main draws for us was the heated swimming pool and shortly after checking in we decamped to the pool for a languorous afternoon.

But the first order of business was a discussion of dinner with the congenial front desk staff. Here, as elsewhere, we felt as if the hotel staff were not comfortable recommending rural, homey restaurants for the home cooking that we sought; perhaps they feared that no English would be spoken, which was the case with the two masserie/agriturismi that we would try during the next three days.

We visited the first of these that evening. Darkness fell about 7pm and we were a little anxious about having to navigate both ways in the dark but there was no remedy. So after a wrong turn or two, we breathed a sigh of relief when after a drive of about 30 minutes finally turned into the long gravel road that leads from SS 16 to the Masseria di Parco di Castro. (We later discovered that it might have been quicker to take the autostrada from Savelletri (there was an exit very close to the hotel) to Pezze di Greco rather than navigate through the large town of Fasano).

This turned out to be one of our favorite dinners, due both to the food and to the ministrations of our water, Vito:



MASSERIA DI PARCO DI CASTRO near Fasano, in Speziale



This SlowFood masseria sits on a slight rise in the midst of olive groves and down a long, unpaved road off the SS 16 near the hamlet of Speziale.
(The farm was mentioned in a papal bull as far back as the 12th Century, according to their brochure).

The dining room is encased by stone walls and a vaulted stone ceiling and the atmosphere is cozy and welcoming, with a massive hearth for winter evenings. There is a short written menu but we were taken in hand by our amiable server, Vito, a most enthusiastic young man with an unbridled enthusiasm for the food of the region and much knowledge to impart. If only my Italian skills were better!

We began with complimentary tomato bruschetta and the ubiquitous “Pettola,” the fried balls of dough that we sampled in many incarnations. These were dough mixed with cheese and mint and were addictive. Parco di Castro also served the best bread of the trip—small ciabatta from a bakery in nearby Montealbano (I did not get the name, unfortunately, but vito did tell us the source of the cheese that was served and we made a note to visit before our flight home later that week)

Although we did not select the pasta of the house, the laganari (long, thick square-cut chitarra-style pasta) with lightly cooked cherry tomatoes and basil, Vito brought us a complimentary order. Excellent. All pastas are made in house.

We then moved on to two more shared pasta dishes:

I had the cappelacci with red peppers and mint, and was warned by Vito that I should NEVER add grated pecorino to this dish but, instead, should use the grated cacioricotta that was also on the table. A long explanation of this followed but I was not able to understand much of it. (Pecorino was too strong, was the gist). This dish was also excellent, featuring the red peppers that are a sensation in the region. (I had had the best peppers of my life two nights before at Le Zie in Lecce)


My partner chose a pasta dish with tomatoes, pancetta and potatoes and immediately stated a wish to return the following night for a repeat. (I wish we had done this; more details later).

As happened most nights, we were too full to attempt secondi, even though the house special rabbit is on my radar for the future. (I believe this was described as boned out and grilled—mmmm). Beef, chicken, and a mixed arrosto completed the list of secondi on that night)

After a trio (!) of complimentary digestifs: red wine/sherry; limoncello; and laurel, we reluctantly bid goodnight. The total bill, with local red wine and water, was 40 euro.

Highly recommended. Closed Mondays and Tuesdays.

http://www.masseriaparcodicastro.it/







Here is the review I wrote of the hotel on TripAdvisor:




“In a word: IDYLLIC”
Masseria Torre Maizza




anonymous05 30 contributions
new york
Oct 4, 2010 | Trip type: Couples
We spent three nights at Torre Maizza near the end of September and while I rarely write hotel reviews, our experience at this hotel has prompted me to do so here. First of all, I take exception to previous reviews stating that the hotel is difficult to find. It is located just a few minutes drive from the main Bari-Brindisi autostrada Fasano/Savelletri exit and there are signs directing you to the hotel along the route. In addition, the hotel website offers clear directions.

Second, contrary to what a recent reviewer wrote, there are several restaurants located no more than a 10-minute drive from the hotel in the fishing village of Savelletri, on the coast and more, a short drive south in the Torre Canne area. This stretch of shore is quite famous locally for seafood.

More important, we thoroughly enjoyed our stay. The property is worthy of a photo spread for an architectural or design magazine, as it is a renovation and expansion of a historic farm property that has been done with impeccable attention to detail. The gardens and greenery are particularly impressive--trailing bougainvillea; exotic palms in giant weathered terra cotta pots; grapevines shading the walkways from reception to the guest rooms; clipped citrus trees--all set against the compound of handsome whitewashed buildings that comprise the premises.

A main attraction for us was the vast swimming pool heated to a perfect temperature by solar panels. We had one day of pouring rain when the pool would normally be closed. But upon our request, staff opened the pool and we were able to take our daily swim.

Guest rooms are large and handsome, under high vaulted stone ceilings. I do not often take photos of my hotel rooms but did so in this case. Beds were fabulous, bathroom fittings were luxurious; our room had a fireplace. Higher category rooms have tubs which might be difficult to access for those with mobility issues, as the sides are very high. (For us, this was not an issue)

Buffet breakfasts are outstanding, with a vast array of fresh fruits, yogurts, lovely cakes and pastries, meats (including the celebrated capocollo from nearby Martina Franca) and the esteemed local cheeses. Although we noticed fresh ricotta (heavenly) and mozzarella on the table, we did not find any burrata. No problem, said our amiable server, and he returned with a plate of complimentary burrata for us to sample. In addition to the cold selections, there is a long list of egg dishes and other hot items that can be indicidually ordered and that are included. (Try the frittata of smoked scamorza cheese!)


Isabel Ideler at the front desk was most helpful with restaurant advice and she, and the other members of the front desk and restaurant staff that we encountered, went out of their way to assist in any way possible. We did not have dinner here, or try the spa or golf courses, so cannot comment, except to say that the dining areas are gorgeous and the setting looks very romantic!

(As noted above, there are at least two reportedly excellent fish restaurant in Savelletri, on the coast about a 5-minute drive from the hotel. There are also several masserie restaurants in the countryside outside of Fasano of which I recommend the Masseria di Parco di Castro, in Speziale di Fasano, for a very well-priced and delicious meal of local fare. A car is necessary to reach these. The hotel staff will have additional ideas, and there is also a well-reviewed restaurant at the Torre Maizza's sister property located a few minutes away)

There is free internet in the reception area.

The hotel is a 5-star luxury property but the atmosphere is relaxed, romantic, and not in the least bit stuffy. The price/quality ratio here is much higher than at similarly starred properties in more touristed areas such as the Amalfi or Ligurian Coasts.

The best testament that I can offer is that we are already planning a return for next year.

Date of stay September 2010

Hi Eks! I just found this post (I've been in Cambodia) and I'm really happy to read about all your wonderful meals as usual. This is a region I've yet to explore, but it's high on my list for "someday."
I don't know how you deal with a partner who does not eat lunch. Do you go all day without eating? Don't think I could do that...

Eks - everyone in Puglia plays Burraco. It is a highly addictive card game which is apparently very simple but ....

I first learnt it there after lunch during the summer between 2 and 4 waiting for the heat of the day to subside. It is in fact now played throughout Italy but I always associate it with a couple of summer vacations near Otranto.

I so enjoy your trip reports - they are focused on exactly the things I most enjoy. Thanks so much for sharing. :)

Thanks again, all of you who commented.

Kristina: Your reports have inspired many of my trips; they are a marvel!

Burraco will be placed on the "to learn in future" list!


Here is a bit more. My travel partner does not eat lunch but he does love all types of music. You will soon see why I mention this:



After another exceptional masseria breakfast, we headed north on the highway for about 20 minutes, to Monopoli, where soon after entering the town we found an outdoor market in full swing. This is an event that I can not ignore, so we parked the car on a nearby street with not much difficulty and wandered around, admiring the fruits and vegetables, and stands of mussels and tiny clams, for about a half hour. From Monopoli, which looks like a lovely large town (the population is about 50,000), we drove north for 10 more minutes, when we exited the autostrada at Polignano a Mare, and quickly found parking at the edge of the historic center, a block or so from the tourist office.

One of our first questions to the lovely young woman at the tourist office was regarding the most famous gelateria in Puglia, Il Super Mago del Gelo. Happily, this cozy landmark was just a few doors down, so we made a beeline for the counter where we joined a crowd of gussied up locals who were fueling up before a church baptism. Super Mago is famous for their granita, a sweet, slushy confection but we contented ourselves with gelato; instead of crowning the cones with panna (cream), the cream was put in the bottom of the cone which makes perfect sense. Refreshed, we set off the explore the narrow streets.


Lined with whitewashed cubist houses backing up to sheer stone cliffs that rise from a transparent turquoise sea, Polignano is a gem and one of the most beautiful towns I’ve visited in Italy. We noticed a few people out in kayaks and this would be a great way to explore the caverns underneath the town. Another would have been to lunch at the famous restaurant in the Hotel Grotta Palazzese, but we had heard that prices had risen to stratospheric realms in recent years (rumors abound of secondi priced near 50 euro). We did stop by the hotel to see if we could take a peek but it had not yet opened for lunch and the man at the hotel front desk was less than welcoming (the only rather supercilious person that we encountered all week; I guess he is tired of all the tourists traipsing in to take a look at the grotto) so we moved on to wander for another hour or so.

Unfortunately, we never found the stature of Polignano’s most famous resident, Singer Domenico Mondugno, famed for his rendition of “Nel Blu Dipinto di Blu,” the number one single of 1958 which we were told was inspired by the color of the sky above his Puglian birthplace. The song has been covered more than a hundred times by everyone from the McGuire sisters to the Gipsy Kings and is better known as “Volare” and probably best known as a vehicle for Dino Paul Crocetti, known to us now as Dean Martin. We never did find the statue which we later learned is located a short distance to the north of the historic center. Here is a photo for the three people that may be interested:


http://rete.comuni-italiani.it/wiki/...co_Modugno.jpg



It was only at our next stop that we learned that Mondugno’s reputation in his birthplace may be a bit besmirched by the fact that he apparently never paid homage to Polignano in later life. Although Mondugno’s Italian fan club site is no longer active, the singer may enjoy a following in Russia, since there is a Russian-language fan club:


http://domenicomodugno.narod.ru/







Slightly more interesting may be this website that I just came across: The Apulian Club appears to be an organization dedicated to celebrating the food and drink of the region. The list of upcoming food festivals and dinners is a good resource for those who can stumble through the Italian.


http://www.apulianclub.com/it/

I love that song "Volare".

Speaking of songs, did you encounter the big new hit there in Italy (for that much all of Europe), "We Speak No Americano"? It samples an old Italian song called "Tu vuò fà l'americano" by Renato Carosone.

When I heard this song for the first time, I instantly thought of my grandmother. I remember her listening to it when I was younger.

Lovely report - can't believe I only just noticed it now! So glad you were enchanted by Puglia.
And we too loved the cream-filled ice cream cones at Il Super Mago :)

Chazz:

I remember the old song and I think that I heard it a few times on this trip. But I do not know the new one..

H: We were so enchanted that we hope to go back next spring...your report was one of the most helpful to me in panning and I am sorry that I did not thank you until now..

sorry, in "planning!"

From Polignano, we drove south and turned off the highway at the Savelletri/Fasano exit, but instead of stopping at the hotel, we drove to east to the coast to the tiny fishing village of Savelletri. My goal: To sample the ricci di mare (sea urchin) for which the town is renowned throughout Italy.



Here is a video to get you oriented:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p_qIr...eature=related


There are several fish vendors in this tiny town, but while we strolled around the picturesque port area, deciding which of these to patronize, we came upon a small camper parked near the pier. In front of the vehicle, piled on a table, was an immense round of ricci, along with loaves of bread, and wine. Partaking of this feast were a couple who invited us to join them. It turned out that the man spoke excellent English, having lived in Florida for several years before moving back to his native Bari. So it was with these two friendly folks that I was able to eat my fill of one of the most delectable tastes of the week. Because the orange meat is snuggled into the prickly black half shell, the best way to eat it, we were told, was to clean out the shell with a hunk of bread and then devour the ricci soaked bread. Absolutely incredible. Worth a trip to Savelletri!




That night, we had dinner in Fasano, a few miles drive from the hotel.


IL RIFUGIO DEI GHIOTTONI Fasano

Not wanting to venture too far from our hotel, we selected this casual eatery for our next dinner. This meant negotiating the busy town center of Fasano in the dark which was a little anxiety provoking for me.

I had read about this place during my research; it is listed in the Michelin Italy guide. The staff at my hotel concurred that it was a good place for antipasti. It is a very casual place that seems to attract local families. A multi-tiered antipasti spread greets diners near the entrance. I now realize that I should have selected my dishes for the antipasti course, instead of having the waiter bring us an assemblage of mixed antipasti, because there were several dishes that looked good but which were not included in the antipasti misti spread.

As noted, this is a very casual place; at least two televisions were turned to high volume throughout our meal.

The antipasti misti was good; included were an excellent dish of farro with carrots in a light brothy sauce; a cold dish of mushrooms and celery; fresh ricotta; fried anchovies; fried fiore di zucca; zucchini and tomatoes sott’ olio; and scamorza-stuffed pancetta strips. One of the two best dishes was, surprisingly, strips of white meat chicken (?) with grated carrots. The other was breaded mussels. Mussels have been farmed in Puglia (around Taranto) for centuries and enjoy a reputation that is very well deserved, if these were any indication. I cannot get too excited about the mussels back home in New York since most lack any semblance of character, but the depth of flavor of these was just outstanding and I was sorry that I had not sampled other mussel dishes earlier in the week.

The antipasti were the highlight of the dinner. The primi, which we had as main courses, which followed were disappointing. Before leaving home, I had read reams about the quintessential Pugliese speciality of fave e ciccoria and decided to finally try it on that evening. At some places this dish is served with toasted, oiled bread while spicy marinated peppers are another traditional accompaniment. I was given a dish of peppers and instructed by the waiter to mix them into the pureed fava beans. In my opinion, this dish needed a lot more than piquant peppers to liven up a rather stodgy and bland puree. I am sure it is quite healthy, though.

My partner slogged through a bowl of paparadelle alla Ghiottoni, a preparation that included a Bolognese-type sauce with porcini mushrooms. It fell far short of the pastas we had enjoyed earlier in the week.

They also serve pizza.

With house wine and water, the total was 37euro. Closed Wednesday.

http://ilrifuguiodeighiottoni.com/ristorante.html

I just read back through some of your report and had to mention how I LOVE Pettola. I had them for the first time on the trip and was hooked after one. I was trying to look through my notes to find out where I had it, but unfortunately, I lost some of them. I think it was in Rome where I first had them.

Sooo good!

The next day was Saturday our last full day in Puglia and we were sorry to see, and hear, that it was pouring! But we had had wonderful weather for the entire week, so we did not feel that this was a tragedy. After a lavish breakfast that included the famous and sinfully rich Puglian burrata cheese, we decided to set off for Cisternino in the hopes that the rain would abate during the drive.

Cisternino was interesting to me because I had read that the butchers of this white, vaguely Greek-looking town have a traditional of fornello pronto, which means that diners can select their cuts of choice at the shop, have it grilled outside over a wood fire and sit at long tables to devour the grilled meat.

Here is the menu of a well-regarded maccelleria/trattoria to give you an idea of the options:


http://www.trattoriadelcentrostorico.it/menu.html

Photos:

http://www.trattoriadelcentrostorico.it/photo.html






We drove up the forested hills to a plateau overlooking the Val d’Itria and soon found our way into this labyrinthine white town that was spectacularly beautiful even in the torrential rain. I was delighted to find an open truck piled high with boxes of various types of mushrooms including the regional favorite, cardoncelli, but before we could do any further exploring, my partner wisely called off our expedition. Needless to say, there was not a scent of grilled meat in the air—the rain would have doused any fire and, besides, it was too early. And so, drenched, we retreated to our wonderful hotel and did what any other sane person would do in the pouring rain: Go swimming in the pool!

The rain did not abate until the late afternoon, so we remained at the hotel until about 6pm when we set off for one last errand on our way to dinner. I wanted to bring home smoked scamorza, a cheese that I like to use in cooking. I can buy it in New York but the product there is not nearly as good as the version available here. Our new friend Vito at Masseria di Parco di Castro told us that the best caseificio, cheese maker, in the area was Oronzo Crovace in Speziale, and so we headed for this tiny hamlet on the SS 16.

The warm and friendly family that owns this factory/shop welcomed us with open arms when they heard that I wanted to stock up for the flight back to New York. They proudly showed us the cheese making equipment in the back room and invited us to return any morning to watch the cheese being made. I had not thought of doing this before, so this was the second time I visited a mozzarella/scamorza maker at the wrong time! Never mind. For 12 euro, I bought a very large amount of cheese and we walked away vowing to return one day to visit with these kind people and to watch them at work. (I bought only smoked cheese, which would last a long time, or so I was told by Sr. Crovace; the real jewels here would have been the stracciatella and the burrata but I knew that these would deteriorate during the long trip home).



http://www.masseriailcapitolo.com (click on the "caseificio" symbol on the upper left of the page)



Here is one of my staple recipes that uses smoked mozzarella or smoked scamorza (the recipe specifies mozzarella but it is great with the smoked cheese):



http://www.jamieoliver.com/forum/viewtopic.php?id=28927

eks - still enjoying and loving your report. Re-living some of your adventures and reminscing about my own trip 3 years ago. Thanks so much for the memories, pictures, etc. Sounds like you really did so much in a relatively short time. Glad it was such a success !!!

Thanks, Flame ! We had a fantastic time but I am afraid we gave rather short shrift to the cultural/historical sites, so the report just scratches the barest surface of what the region offers to the tourist. As you well know! Thank YOU for your help in paving the way.

I will return soon with the final dinner. I wish I could say that it was the best of the trip but I am afraid that was not the case!

I should also not that there is a trattoria across the street from the cheese shop that looks interesting. I neglected to get the name when we passed, but from a search, this looks like the place; I have it marked for a future trip, as it gets good reviews on an Italian online review site:

http://www.oliodiostuni.it/joomla/se...ortiletto.html




From Speziale, we continued on the SS 16 in the direction of Ostuni until the hamlet of Montelbano, where a sign on the right (north side) indicates the turnoff for Masseria Lamiola Piccola, our dinner destination. We had high hopes, which were heightened by the long and dramatic drive on a gravel road squeezed between stone walls and vast tracts of gnarled olive trees. The road rises and twists before the white walls of the masseria come into view. There is plenty of onsite parking; follow the directions to the lot which is at the rear of the restaurant.

Since we arrived a bit before our 8pm opening time, we were shown to cozy sofas in front of the tv in the front living area. We passed a few minutes here before being led by the chatty proprietress (who speaks English fairly well) into the dining room. We were the only diners on arrival but the place soon filled up with what I assume were local people out on the town on a Saturday night. (We were surprised at the glittery getup of some of our fellow guests)

The meal began very well with a succession of mixed antipasti that included a dish of fantastically creamy stracciatella cheese and another of fior di latte. The obligatory platter of capicola from Martina Franca made a brief appearance before being devoured, as did a plate of pettole. A dish of pressed fowl drizzled with balsamic vinegar was excellent, as was a carpaccio of zucchini with shaved pecorino. To complete the spread: Grilled eggplant and a dish of trippa di agnello with potatoes and celery that I did not like. At all.

We should have called it a night then and there because the pastas that followed were not very good. I chose the cheese ravioli in tomato sauce which was probably not the best choice. The edges of the ravioli were hard and the dish was bland and disappointing. My partner fared little better with overcooked orichiette topped with meatballs that were probably much more bread than meat and had almost no taste.

We passed on the second courses, which were either sausage, lamb or beef. The bill with two glasses of wine, and water, was 40 euro.

The hotel looks attractive on the website and the location is convenient to both Ostuni and the coast. But the restaurant was a very big disappointment.


http://www.lamiolapiccola.it/la-struttura/fotogallery



The next morning after another wonderful breakfast, we drove to Brindisi airport and boarded the flight that would take us to Rome. We had no problems at the Rome airport and our flights on Alitalia were good, although once again, every seat was taken.

Our cheese survivied the trip unscathed and has already featured in several dinners at the Ekscrunchy house. We look forward to returning to Puglia in 2011, when we hope to visit the Trani/Andria area as well as Matera in neighboring Basilicata.

Wonderful report, as always! Between your trip report and Ted Gales, I think I may need to start planning a trip to Puglia! :-)

I've done an album of photos that Puglia fans may enjoy:

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...5&l=93dcbb02be

Your trip report is fantastic although I have not read it in entirety only because it is making me tear up. You see, my husband and I were planning a trip to Puglia a couple years ago before he had an accident which left him semi-paralyzed. After two years, he has regained some walking ability but only for short distances.

We recently discussed if maybe we could resume planning a trip to Puglia and you sound like a good person to ask about how it might be for someone like him to get around in that area. For instance, are most of the churches, restaurants and such on ground level without too many stairs? We have a transport chair (smaller & lighter than a wheelchair) that we would bring with us, but are the streets mostly uneven cobblestones as in most other parts of Italy? It sounds like you stayed in some fabulous hotels, but was there showers in the bathrooms? My husband could not sit down into a tub.

I look forward to and thank you for any info you could give us. By the way, I used to read these boards almost 24/7 and recognize a lot of the same people still adding their valued information!

Angela I am so sorry to hear of your husband's accident. A few weeks before our own trip to Puglia my teenage son broke his ankle playing rugby and was in a cast and not allowed to put his foot to the ground so he was there on crutches with pretty limited mobility. We had hired a lightweight wheel chair before we left and, whilst in Rome this was helpful, it was not really of any use at all in Puglia as lots of the towns in the part we were, near Fasano, are on hills and with very steep old cobbled streets so pushing a wheelchair was not really at all feasible. [Martina Franca was an exception to this and wlothough on a hill the centre was relatively flat albeit cobbled]. Our main and serious problem was parking in the centre of towns as many of the easiest places to park were too far from the centre for my son to navigate and hence we had some rather hair raising moments driving round the narrow winding streets of the centre in an unfamiliar car frantically looking for limited spaces with cars, bikes and pedestrians coming at us from all directions. There were quite a lot of steps up to things and down to things and we personally found Puglia much more dificult to navigate in these circumstances than Amalfi [which although built on a hill has lots of flat bits along the fabulous sea front and main street] or Rome which we had visited in our first week and where we managed to see virtually everything we had planned to so I suspect if you went to the area we were in you would need to plan v. carefully indeed. I think further south Lecce looks more accessible as is less on a hill but we did not get that far.

Ekscrunchy we too enjoyed Puglia enormously finding the place unspoilt a full of glorious buildings and are keen to return at some point in future. Enjoyed lots of good food both cooked by us with local produce in the lovely renovated trulli we had rented for a week [Trulli mandorla recomended in lonely planet and on a hill with amazing far reaching views www.trullomandorla.com] and at local restaurants.

Like you we went to "il ritrivo degli amici" in martina franca and had a great meal. Their house antipasto were out of this world lots of courses served sequentially including as highlights local ham, vegetable fritti, small crepes stuffed with spinach, and the most wonderful little cheese souffle.

We also hugely enjoyed the "piazetta cattedrale" in Ostuni.
piazzettacattedrale.it which is a tiny restaurant opposite the cathedral doors. Very pretty decor, clientele a mix of monks,locals and tourists and excellent carefully prepared food. Again the antipasto was exceptional.

Our only bad meal the whole week was in Alberbello in a place called Trlli d'oro where neither the atmosphere nor the food was a patch on these other places.

We did locate mushrooms but in Camp Fiore market in Rome rather than Puglia. They were so fabulously splendid [glossy porcini, chanterelle and a huge version which we could not name] that our buying got 'out of control' and we found ourselves eating mushrooms for several meals running in omlettes with scamorza, on bruschetta fried in butter and garlic etc !

Angela I am so terribly sorry for your troubles with your husband. I agree with Loncall that the area north of Lecce would be difficult. But the southernmost Salento area is much flatter and there are flat areas of Otranto and the nearby towns. Our hotel rooms all had showers except the last one, which had a bath with a shower inside. But we did not like that arrangement so much because the bath had high sides and was a little hard to get into. But that hotel, Torre Maizza, also has rooms with shower only. The hotels were accessible--located on flat surfaces that your husband could negotiate.

As I remember it, some of the towns in the area north of Lecce had streets that were not cobbled but were paved with large, flat marble stones which were easier to navigate than cobbled streets. But as Loncall mentions from personal experience, you might be best off waiting until he improves before tackling this area.


Loncall: I am so glad that you had a good trip! That trullo looks gorgeous! What was the nearest town or village? I know it is close to Fasano, which I thought was a great location for covering that part of Puglia..

Angela - how sad for you both. but i am full of admiration that you still want to get to Italy.

can I suggest that you google "disabled visitors to Italy"? there is a whole load of information there that may help.

and slightly off topic, when we were in Vienna we noticed that every underground station had a lift - and the city is relatively flat with good pavments. Just a thought!

Thanks so much for your replies. We thought that if we stayed out of the bigger cities where driving would be a challenge (especially since I would be doing all the driving!) that we might be able to negotiate the smaller towns. But I never realized that Puglia would be hilly. Thanks for your sharing your experience, loncall, it was a great help. And I will look into searching for info on travelling with disabilites. I just knew that you wonderful people on Fodors would have much more specific information.

Wow!
Sounds like an amazing trip!
I am so sad that we had to scratch puglia from our june 2011 trip.

I am still taking lots of notes from your report, though, because I am determined to get there soon!

Thanks for all the great details, as always!

dina

Thanks, Dina!

You will get there someday and meanwhile, I am following along on your Istanbul plans!

There is a good article on southern Puglia, the Salento, in this month's Travel and Leisure magazine.

For anyone at a loss for spring travel ideas, I recommend Puglia highly:

http://www.travelandleisure.com/arti...n-puglia-italy

Great article, thanks for posting !! Brought back wonderful memories......

Ekscrunchy, I'm obsessed with this trip report. I'm setting my sights on Puglia for our September trip. I don't know if you remember going back and forth with me, trying to help me find the perfect stay in the Amalfi Coast (we ended up going to San Sebastian instead), but now I'm looking for just the right place in Puglia.

So, I'm looking for a fun, walkable seaside town with some good restaurants, and a hotel with a view of the water. And, that would be a good base for exploring. What do you think - would any of the places you saw qualify? Would Ostuni, or does that not really count as seaside? I can't quite tell.

The masserie look great, but I don't think there are any in walking distance of a town. If I'm wrong, please correct me, because that would be great.

We'll have a car, but I go stir crazy if I can't walk somewhere. I like to take off on walks while my husband watches strange game shows and crime procedurals in Italian.

Eager for any tips. You always give good ones.

So glad I'll have your excellent food reports handy.

Thanks!

Of course I remember you! And do you know that you are about the fourth person that has asked me for the same ideal place to stay? But the problem is, I do not remember a hotel with those requirements. I saw hotels in Otranto, for example, but not on the water. I saw hotels on the beach strip north of Otranto, but not within walking distance of the town. You might take a look at Gallipoli hotels, and see if any suit.

Is it ok if the hotel has a sea view but no beach?

There is certainly the option of the Grotta Palazzese in Polignano a Mare. But there is no beach right at the hotel; the town drops off sheer cliffs:

http://www.grottapalazzese.it/it/home/

Look:http://www.hotelfalli.com/index-en.php


http://www.isolaloscoglio.it/ENG/index.html





But here is the good news: We loved Puglia so much that we are returning in early May for another week. We will try three hotels, including the Torre Maizza near Savelletri, which offered a very appealing early booking package. So now that I know what you are looking for, I will be more aware.


I agree with you emphatically about having a town nearby and feeling isolated in the countryside, even with a car. I will be looking myself for a place such as you describe.

And these:


http://www.hotelpalazzodelcorso.it/h...mosco-inn.html


http://www.otrantohotel.com/hotel/en/home.html

I love that you're going back so soon! Thank you for your suggestions. My dream is for sea view from the room, and The Grotta Palazzese looks perfect except for all the reviews about the indifferent service.

OK, I have a zillion questions for you. Ready?

-You didn't see Porto Cesareo on your trip, did you? That one also fits the bill, but I haven't heard anything about the town.

-Of the beach towns (in the event that I give up on the room w sea view quest), which was your fave? Did you have one? How did you feel about Gallipoli vs. Otranto vs. Polignano?

- Any place you feel, both atmosphere- and food-wise, you'd love to stay for several nights? Which towns are you most looking forward to going back to?

- And...say we were to do a few nights by the beach, and a few in another town: would you choose Lecce or Ostuni for the non-beach town? Or maybe I should split it into 3 parts...hmmm. My husband likes to stay put, but I like to get a feel for different places so I may argue it if it's worth it.

-Think it's worthwhile to do one masseria even with my reservations about being isolated in the countryside? Is it that awesome an experience?

- Am I driving you crazy?

Oh - in answer to your question, I don't care about the beach itself. Just water outside my window.

pps Would love to get in touch by email. I owe you a drink for all your help. (Though who doesn't?) I'm at laura (at) talkingshrimp dot com.

Laura: I really enjoy "discussing" so you are not at all driving me crazy! I only wish I coudl be of more help.

We drove through Porto Cesareo. Although we did not stay there, I would have no hesitation doing so. We did stop to gaze at some bathing platforms in the water along the main road and I am telling you, that sight alone would convince me to spend a few nights there, the water is so beautiful. I don't think it much matters which town you choose in the Salento coast..they all had appeal--to me. Remember that I only did a drive around the coast, from Porto Badisco, around the tip, and up not as far as Gallipoli. The entire coastline has appeal. There are no hideous new developments that I remember. Sandy beaches more on the western (Gallipoli) side of the peninsula. Good roads. Easy to get from one town to the next.

I did not see beaches in Polignano, although they exist. I think they are removed from the town center. Otranto town does have a nice enough beach, but the really pretty ones are either a bit to the north, or to the south near Porto Badisco and south. Somehow I have the feeling that many of the hotels that are actually on the beach are those "villaggio" types places common in some beach resorts in Italy..with lots of activities, etc.

I am still looking for the perfect town/beach combination.

You do not have to worry about the food, although you will find plenty of places oriented towards tourists in the popular towns. I will be looking for more great places to eat on this next trip. Unfortunately, we are not going to have time to get to the Salento, though, as I wanted to include Matera and we have only 7 nights.

Ostuni is a large town while Lecce is a small city. Both are charming. Tell me how many days you will have. Is this for late September?

Maybe combine a stay in Porto Cesareo with a night in Lecce and a few days in or near Ostuni (??)

If you do not want to be isolated in the countryside than a masserie will not be good. All it means is that it is a country hotel with certain architectural characteristics. I imagine that there is a huge variety among them..some are very upscale and others are very plain....Torre Maizza is in the first category and Gattamora in the second. But they were, or are, farms, so they are in the more rural areas.

Puglia does mean a lot of driving, but it is easy driving.


One good location that you could check out would be the masserie located along near SS 16.
this would put you near Ostuni and near the beach:

http://www.masseriaspetterrata.it/Masseriaing.htm

http://www.borgosanmarco.it/

http://www.masseriaparcodicastro.it/ (great food here)

You are awesome.

I should be more clear about what I mean when I say "beach town." I don't really care about the beach, per se. More about just being by the water. I'd like to see some great beaches and maybe go swimming once or twice, but where we stay doesn't have to have one.

I'm thinking 10 nights or so in September. My husband really wants to spend some time in Naples, but I don't think I'd want to allot more than one night. Not a fan of Palermo, don't think I'll love Naples either - though I do want to try the pizza. My husband didn't love Palermo either, but he has a revisionist love for our stay there now. I remember a lot of sketchiness and dog poop. I'm from NYC, grew up here in the 70s and have a fondness for grit, but....

Oh, lord, just thinking now about renting a car and driving out of Naples. That sounds hairy, maybe not worth the pizza.

Anyhow, sorry for the ramble. Let's say 7-10 nights in Puglia. I'd say 3 locations there would be our max.

Which masseria did you like more: Montelauro or Maizza? Will check out the others you posted here. I actually started looking into Parco Di Castro earlier after reading your food report.

Did you happen to see the Sommita in Ostuni? That one has always looked nice to me. Every time I research a Puglia trip, it catches my eye. Service there seems to have improved since I first checked it out on tripadvisor 2 years ago.

I'm getting so excited for Puglia. Your trip report sealed the deal. One day, we'll still make the Amalfi Coast but I'm more into the less-charted, if not uncharted, route.

Hi! Three locations with 9-10 days or so is perfect!

Will you stop at Matera en route from Naples?

We passed Somita in Ostuni but I did not look in. I am not sure that this is the best location because it would be a pain to drive there, unless you are very skilled with driving on those narrow roads of hill towns. When we got into Ostuni we parked pretty far from the old city because I kept getting nervous about continuing along those typically narrow streets and just wanted to ditch the car. But then I am from NYC, too, and am not the most confident driver once I am out of the city, and I have a fear of getting wedged into onoe of those narrow lanes and scraping the rental car. (Don't ask!) (Oddly enough, I drive a lot here in Manhattan with no problem!)
Anyway, if you want to use it as a base, you have to have good driving skills, as it is high on the hill of the oldest part of Ostuni. Views should be great, over the plain with the sea in the distance.

Montelauro and Maizza are both in the drop-dead gorgeous category but Maizza is more luxurious overall. We had the least expenswive room at Montelauro and it was simple but charming. The rooms at Maizza are the most beautiful I've seen in an Italian hotel, but remember that I do not usually stay in properties of in that luxury category.. .

Both of those places are well placed for daytrips, to different areas. From Montelauro you can be in Otranto in 5 minutes; Otranto itself is good for an afternoon of wandering, not much more.
From Maizza you can be in the tiny port of Savelletri in 5 minutes, but there is not much there except the marina, a few fish restaurants, and a few shops including a good cheese shop. Ten minutes from Maizza is the larger town of Fasano. Maizza is also a minute or two from the main north-south highway, so easy to take trips to towns like Polignano, Monopoli, and to the Brindisi and Bari airports.

The drive in and out of Naples airport? I only wish I was brave enough to do that. I do understand the pizza quest. I am trying to find a place in Agerola so I can try the famous cheese from that town..

I am so happy that more people here will be headed to Puglia.

What a trip report! Replete with ideas and specifics. You are terrific, eks (I like to call you that cuz those are my initials)

We will definitely plan a trip to Puglia, after first reading Ted Gale and now you.

Puglia should give you a medal.