From Ile Saint-Louis
May 15th, 2011, 08:53 AM
#1
Original Poster
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 399
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From Ile Saint-Louis
2011-05-15
Bonjour from Ile Saint-Louis, Day 1
Grateful and pity the driver who was awaiting us at CDG. The line for customs was extremely disorganized and long. The line to the ladies room was also long so I went to search for another while W collected our bags. There was not another restroom so back I trudged to the long line discovering that there were only two stalls and not the most hygienic either. So glad we are departing France from Lyon after a week in Beaune.
Our driver had a commercial parking spot so we were whisked past the seeming miles long departing vehicles much to our relief since neither of us had slept on the flight across the pond. We were to discover shortly how he earned every cent we spent on such lavishness!
Paul dropped us off at the office of our gite management and took our two large suitcases to the apartment. We met the apartment manager Christolphe and supplied our credit card to pay for the remainder of our rental and to submit a hold of $200 damages waiver. The former went through but the latter was declined on two attempts. They do not accept our other card, American Express. No matter, such things happen Christolfe said; we would attempt it again on Monday. He then walked us to our gite while disserting on the metro, batobus, monuments, etc. Little did he know that thanks to Fodorites I was well versed in the attractions and lay of the land!
Christolphe did recommend his favorite shops on Ile Saint-Louis which would be very useful. We arrived at our gite in a 17th century building as they all are on d'Ile. He opened the red door and we embarked up three flights of circular stairs wound like a corkscrew and very narrow in depth. My efforts at the gym were just rewarded! Oh he forgot to show us where to place our trash so we would follow him back down, and if you have a slight fear of height as I do that would be more daunting than any effort spent going up!
Rue la Regrattier is a very narrow cobblestone passageway. The gite faces the street and I can almost touch the window boxes filled with geraniums whose flowers are the size of a child's head, leaving me wondering if I could take a package of this potting soil through customs?
We began unpacking and setting up my netbook and W's Iphone only to discover wifi will not connect. Repeated calls to Christolphe following his admonishments each time that it would take unplugging and replugging the wifi cord at least three times left us frustrated. Finally he came over and gave us the connector to the cable internet declaring the problem resolved and that the Iphone has special settings (which we do not for one second believe) and he could not help us with that. So much for the wifi offered in the gite's brochure.
Finally we are able to set out to explore the island. First stop ladies; Diwali, where I purchased a most beautiful silk/wool hombre scarf for 69 euros. Or should I say, attempted to purchase? The credit card was declined again! You know, that special Capitol One, no transaction fee card we ordered several months ago specifically for this trip? Feeling a bit embarassed we shoved our American Express card at mademoiselle and were informed they do not accept that card. The clue should have been in the word American. Duh!
So I pulled out my precious euros and paid cash. I sure hope we don't run into problems with our ATM card!
We walked the quais both north and south gazing at Notre Dame and the footbridge to d'Ile de cite, the left bank and Hotel de Ville on the right bank. The mademoiselles were sunbathing on the lower quai. We were taking it all in! Then on to walking Rue Saint-Louis stopping to pick up items for the gite and evening meal there. Did I mention that neither of had slept in 27 hours?
Back at the gite and up those stairs W phoned Capitol One and had a lengthy and not so nice conversation with the poor woman on that end. According to her they flagged our account as a fraud because Christolphe gave the wrong three digit code from the back of the card. Can't wait to see what he has to say on Monday! Ha! So hopefully we are cleared because in all our efficiency before we left the US we decided to only bring two credit cards and our ATM card and as you've read neither of our credit cards works here! The apartment provides one half hour's worth of international calling and I'm sure we used that and more on this. Grrr
I don't know what it is about French salt but oh my we had a salami that nailed it! Some compte salers cheese that was delicious and a vegetable tartine along with the largest grapes I've ever seen. That and a 20 euro bottle of St. Emillion and we were ready for a long overdue sleep. Oh the biscuits -- how could I forget? We stopped in the candy store - sucre ?? where they were giving out samples of chocolate filled biscuits and preserved lemon peels covered in dark chocolate. So we bought biscuits but plain ones flavored with anis and citron (is that right or have I just indicated that it was flavored with gasoline?) The lemon peel treats will be another purchase another day.
I awoke several times during the night. The moonlight cast an orange/pink color rflecting off the building across the rue. I marvelled and wished I could photograph it without waking W. We had cracked open the ancient beautiful window and a neighbor who had done the same was entertaining early into the morning. Somehow the native language made this intrusion delightful rather than obnoxious.
We awoke and I made coffee while W ran out for patisserie. Oui! My new scarf made duty as a shawl on a chilly morning proving it’s worth. Oui!
We walked across Pont de Sully to Richard Lenoir market near place de Bastille. We walked one length before the crowds arrived finding everything from undergarments to skinned lapin. The plan was to buy a rotisserie chicken and believe me the smell was intoxicating but we were swayed by the portability of the cured sausages and hams at the various fromageries.
We set out for lunch and wound our way through place des vosges and on to Brasserie Royal Turenne on the rue by the same name where we had front seats al fresco. We ordered a glass of Sancerre, W displaying a marvelous recall of his high school French, and engaged in some serious people watching. When we ordered a second the waiter became animated and even brought us a bowl of delicious olives! Lunch was a bowl of soupe a l’ oignon and shared mussels in garlic and some fines herbes. Oui! Au Revoir for now!
Bonjour from Ile Saint-Louis, Day 1
Grateful and pity the driver who was awaiting us at CDG. The line for customs was extremely disorganized and long. The line to the ladies room was also long so I went to search for another while W collected our bags. There was not another restroom so back I trudged to the long line discovering that there were only two stalls and not the most hygienic either. So glad we are departing France from Lyon after a week in Beaune.
Our driver had a commercial parking spot so we were whisked past the seeming miles long departing vehicles much to our relief since neither of us had slept on the flight across the pond. We were to discover shortly how he earned every cent we spent on such lavishness!
Paul dropped us off at the office of our gite management and took our two large suitcases to the apartment. We met the apartment manager Christolphe and supplied our credit card to pay for the remainder of our rental and to submit a hold of $200 damages waiver. The former went through but the latter was declined on two attempts. They do not accept our other card, American Express. No matter, such things happen Christolfe said; we would attempt it again on Monday. He then walked us to our gite while disserting on the metro, batobus, monuments, etc. Little did he know that thanks to Fodorites I was well versed in the attractions and lay of the land!
Christolphe did recommend his favorite shops on Ile Saint-Louis which would be very useful. We arrived at our gite in a 17th century building as they all are on d'Ile. He opened the red door and we embarked up three flights of circular stairs wound like a corkscrew and very narrow in depth. My efforts at the gym were just rewarded! Oh he forgot to show us where to place our trash so we would follow him back down, and if you have a slight fear of height as I do that would be more daunting than any effort spent going up!
Rue la Regrattier is a very narrow cobblestone passageway. The gite faces the street and I can almost touch the window boxes filled with geraniums whose flowers are the size of a child's head, leaving me wondering if I could take a package of this potting soil through customs?
We began unpacking and setting up my netbook and W's Iphone only to discover wifi will not connect. Repeated calls to Christolphe following his admonishments each time that it would take unplugging and replugging the wifi cord at least three times left us frustrated. Finally he came over and gave us the connector to the cable internet declaring the problem resolved and that the Iphone has special settings (which we do not for one second believe) and he could not help us with that. So much for the wifi offered in the gite's brochure.
Finally we are able to set out to explore the island. First stop ladies; Diwali, where I purchased a most beautiful silk/wool hombre scarf for 69 euros. Or should I say, attempted to purchase? The credit card was declined again! You know, that special Capitol One, no transaction fee card we ordered several months ago specifically for this trip? Feeling a bit embarassed we shoved our American Express card at mademoiselle and were informed they do not accept that card. The clue should have been in the word American. Duh!
So I pulled out my precious euros and paid cash. I sure hope we don't run into problems with our ATM card!
We walked the quais both north and south gazing at Notre Dame and the footbridge to d'Ile de cite, the left bank and Hotel de Ville on the right bank. The mademoiselles were sunbathing on the lower quai. We were taking it all in! Then on to walking Rue Saint-Louis stopping to pick up items for the gite and evening meal there. Did I mention that neither of had slept in 27 hours?
Back at the gite and up those stairs W phoned Capitol One and had a lengthy and not so nice conversation with the poor woman on that end. According to her they flagged our account as a fraud because Christolphe gave the wrong three digit code from the back of the card. Can't wait to see what he has to say on Monday! Ha! So hopefully we are cleared because in all our efficiency before we left the US we decided to only bring two credit cards and our ATM card and as you've read neither of our credit cards works here! The apartment provides one half hour's worth of international calling and I'm sure we used that and more on this. Grrr
I don't know what it is about French salt but oh my we had a salami that nailed it! Some compte salers cheese that was delicious and a vegetable tartine along with the largest grapes I've ever seen. That and a 20 euro bottle of St. Emillion and we were ready for a long overdue sleep. Oh the biscuits -- how could I forget? We stopped in the candy store - sucre ?? where they were giving out samples of chocolate filled biscuits and preserved lemon peels covered in dark chocolate. So we bought biscuits but plain ones flavored with anis and citron (is that right or have I just indicated that it was flavored with gasoline?) The lemon peel treats will be another purchase another day.
I awoke several times during the night. The moonlight cast an orange/pink color rflecting off the building across the rue. I marvelled and wished I could photograph it without waking W. We had cracked open the ancient beautiful window and a neighbor who had done the same was entertaining early into the morning. Somehow the native language made this intrusion delightful rather than obnoxious.
We awoke and I made coffee while W ran out for patisserie. Oui! My new scarf made duty as a shawl on a chilly morning proving it’s worth. Oui!
We walked across Pont de Sully to Richard Lenoir market near place de Bastille. We walked one length before the crowds arrived finding everything from undergarments to skinned lapin. The plan was to buy a rotisserie chicken and believe me the smell was intoxicating but we were swayed by the portability of the cured sausages and hams at the various fromageries.
We set out for lunch and wound our way through place des vosges and on to Brasserie Royal Turenne on the rue by the same name where we had front seats al fresco. We ordered a glass of Sancerre, W displaying a marvelous recall of his high school French, and engaged in some serious people watching. When we ordered a second the waiter became animated and even brought us a bowl of delicious olives! Lunch was a bowl of soupe a l’ oignon and shared mussels in garlic and some fines herbes. Oui! Au Revoir for now!
May 15th, 2011, 10:01 AM
#3
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 4,591
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I love Diwali and the scarf I bought there in December! Our sales girl was from the US, studying there.
Any chance the candy store was the Cacao et Chocolat across the street from Diwali? They had these little round chocolate disks with orange peel, mango (?) and pistachios that I couldn't get enough of!! Wisely, I didn't break into them until we were back in the US or I would have gone every day to buy more!
Sorry that you got off to a rough start! I hope the saucisson and cheese made it all better. I can eat my weight in the olives there!!
Have fun!
Any chance the candy store was the Cacao et Chocolat across the street from Diwali? They had these little round chocolate disks with orange peel, mango (?) and pistachios that I couldn't get enough of!! Wisely, I didn't break into them until we were back in the US or I would have gone every day to buy more!
Sorry that you got off to a rough start! I hope the saucisson and cheese made it all better. I can eat my weight in the olives there!!
Have fun!
May 15th, 2011, 01:27 PM
#6
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 4,571
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Waiting with baited breath to see if your ATM works!!! IT should!!!!
(Mine did NOT--quel cauchemar-- but that's another story, and i dont want to jinx you!)
thanks for the from-the-scene report!!!
(Mine did NOT--quel cauchemar-- but that's another story, and i dont want to jinx you!)
thanks for the from-the-scene report!!!
May 15th, 2011, 03:21 PM
#7
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,466
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I love Diwali! In addition to their great scarves, I love their bracelets. They don't have a website and wondered if they're open on Sundays. Since you posted today, I'm guessing, yes! I'll be returning to Paris in July and want to go back to there & pick up some more items. Close to Diwali is Amorino for gelato(coconut & hazelnut, yummm). Perhaps I will try Bertillon and join the debate on which is better.
I had trouble years ago with a Bank of America debit card which had a security block on it (doesn't matter that I phoned them prior to my trip). After 2 days, it was resolved. However, when you're on vacation no one wants to stress a moment over these issues.
Enjoying your report...
-Roberta
I had trouble years ago with a Bank of America debit card which had a security block on it (doesn't matter that I phoned them prior to my trip). After 2 days, it was resolved. However, when you're on vacation no one wants to stress a moment over these issues.
Enjoying your report...
-Roberta
May 15th, 2011, 03:32 PM
#8
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 168
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Loving your trip report - more please!
I admit my secret fear is to be in Paris with non-working credit or debit cards. And I've had the wi-fi disappointment too. But the glass of sancerre and a chair on a cafe terrace is the best way to overcome adversity : )
BTW - I don't know if you read Georges Simenon, but Inspector Maigret lives on the blvd Richard Lenoir, and he often enjoys sancerre during an investigation!
Julie
www.juliesparis.wordpress.com
I admit my secret fear is to be in Paris with non-working credit or debit cards. And I've had the wi-fi disappointment too. But the glass of sancerre and a chair on a cafe terrace is the best way to overcome adversity : )
BTW - I don't know if you read Georges Simenon, but Inspector Maigret lives on the blvd Richard Lenoir, and he often enjoys sancerre during an investigation!
Julie
www.juliesparis.wordpress.com
May 15th, 2011, 08:03 PM
#10
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,012
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sebina: We are staying in a guest apartment in early October, so I hope to hear from you when you return. ours is called Marguerita, chosen for availability and (ground floor) convenience for us octogenarians! Where are you staying? Can't wait and bet you can't either!
May 15th, 2011, 08:29 PM
#11
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 7,840
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
MarySteve, I think you're in the apt we had for Christmas/New Year's Eve. Beautiful courtyard beyond an large iron green gate, stone steps showing 400 years of wear and those beautiful floor-to-ceiling views of the Seine. Christophe is a wonderful host and gave us the best rec's for dining in the neighborhood and which patisserie for our bread to the best wine shop.
I look forward to reading more and enjoy your wonderful Parisian getaway.
I look forward to reading more and enjoy your wonderful Parisian getaway.
May 15th, 2011, 10:19 PM
#12
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 226
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
taconictraveler: We are staying in Marguerita in June. Contact me at [email protected] in July for our report.
MarySteveChicago: Is your apartment with Guest Apartment? How long did it take you to get through customs?
MarySteveChicago: Is your apartment with Guest Apartment? How long did it take you to get through customs?
May 16th, 2011, 02:02 AM
#13
Wonderful report so far - bringing back such good memories. I just love Ile St. Louis and can't wait to hear more about your adventures.
I don't even take my AMEX to Europe anymore since it's not accepted by so many merchants. Glad you weathered the inconveniences.
Looking forward to the next installment!
I don't even take my AMEX to Europe anymore since it's not accepted by so many merchants. Glad you weathered the inconveniences.
Looking forward to the next installment!
May 16th, 2011, 11:44 AM
#14
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 4,591
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Roberta- you have to try Bertillon at least once...the salted butter caramel ice cream is divine, truly.
I have had no issues with my ATM cards or other cards including Amex. We use it a lot-especially at restaurants. We do use a Visa, as well, but I haven't found that the Amex is really a problem.
I have had no issues with my ATM cards or other cards including Amex. We use it a lot-especially at restaurants. We do use a Visa, as well, but I haven't found that the Amex is really a problem.
May 16th, 2011, 12:10 PM
#15
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 7,525
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Lunch outside at Brasserie de L'isle? Dinner at Le Caveau or Reine Blanche? Pylone? Cheese shop, chocolate shop, wine from Nicolas? Good memories.
Paris Walks has a nice walk of the island. Much history.
Keep posting and please do provide info on the apartment.
Paris Walks has a nice walk of the island. Much history.
Keep posting and please do provide info on the apartment.
May 17th, 2011, 08:03 AM
#17
Original Poster
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 399
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sunday night we walked a deserted I'le de Cite and were wowed by Notre Dame. Then to Berthilion for a caramel ice cream cone. Everything I've read about Berthilion is true!
Monday
Bought two carnets of tickets at the Tabac shop on the eastern end of the I'le. There was a moment of confusion when the shop keeper short changed W by 50e He apologized profusely when W politely insisted.
Boarded bus #67 near pont de Sully for the ride to Montmartre. Walked for what seemed miles and up a long hill to Sacre Cour. Beautiful view of the Eiffel Tower and the city. Many pious worshippers inside the Sacre Cour; very solemn.
Found the fabric district on our way down the eastern stairs. There were deals if one if looking for Liberty type fabrics of which the selection was huge. Found some linen tea towels for gifts. The quilt shops had some beautiful unique fabrics but I don't quilt.
A quick stop at a market for laundry soap left us puzzled by the language. Of course we were limited by a sudden unfamiliar urge at frugality not wanting to spend more than 3e. We decided on the blue liquid with a picture of folded towels on it.
Late lunch of salad with shrimp and Dorade for W and endive salad and sole meuniere for moi at Caveau de L'Isle. Delicious half bottle of Borgogne. A small intimate restaurant that I would try again.
We stopped in the supermarket on the Ile for something costing 12.5e. W paid with a 50e and was handed 7.5e in return. There was a brief discussion when suddenly 30e appeared from his hand where it appeared to have been all along. We must look like easy marks!
Tuesday – Bought a 5day pass for the batobus because it was only 7e more than a 1day pass. Boarded at Hotel de ville. Deboarded at Champs Elysees – WOW! Began strolling past the palaces; Grand and Petite until we found ourselves on the Avenue des Champs Elysees.
Macaroons! Laduree is a beautiful patisserie on Av Champs and we purchased six macaroons and I began my new collection – one of their charming vinyl bags. We headed towards the Arc de Triompe noshing on one of our delicate macaroons; mine, rose petal flavored. Yum!
We then turned left onto beautiful quiet Avenue d’lena and came upon a gaggle of well heeled men talking excitedly as they exited a door marked -- the Ministy of Finance. We giggled to ourselves wondering if they were deciding who among them would fill the newly vacated seat for the IMF!
We wound our way toward the Trocadero and the Eiffel Tower. The size of the iron lady is overwhelming. Took lots of photos which I’m sure will impress those at home. Hopped on the batobus for St. Germain-des-Pres and had delicious salads nicoise al fresco at Bar du Marche on the corner of Rue di Buci.
Our legs were giving out and it was getting quite warm as we headed home on Blvd St germain. But wait! There’s Patrick Roger the chocolatier’s shop. 6e later we were on our way. 40 tightly wound stairs after this day was too much. I needed to do a quick laundry and rest for tonight.
The machine both washes the clothes and dries them! Pretty ingenious except it’s still doing it’s thing right now some two hrs later! Oh and that soap? It is Laundry softener! W had to return to the supermarket he swore never to enter again!
Did I tell you I bought a scarf? Not only does it double as a morning jacket it covered me when I napped this afternoon and it’s going to La Regalade tonight too! Oui!
Monday
Bought two carnets of tickets at the Tabac shop on the eastern end of the I'le. There was a moment of confusion when the shop keeper short changed W by 50e He apologized profusely when W politely insisted.
Boarded bus #67 near pont de Sully for the ride to Montmartre. Walked for what seemed miles and up a long hill to Sacre Cour. Beautiful view of the Eiffel Tower and the city. Many pious worshippers inside the Sacre Cour; very solemn.
Found the fabric district on our way down the eastern stairs. There were deals if one if looking for Liberty type fabrics of which the selection was huge. Found some linen tea towels for gifts. The quilt shops had some beautiful unique fabrics but I don't quilt.
A quick stop at a market for laundry soap left us puzzled by the language. Of course we were limited by a sudden unfamiliar urge at frugality not wanting to spend more than 3e. We decided on the blue liquid with a picture of folded towels on it.
Late lunch of salad with shrimp and Dorade for W and endive salad and sole meuniere for moi at Caveau de L'Isle. Delicious half bottle of Borgogne. A small intimate restaurant that I would try again.
We stopped in the supermarket on the Ile for something costing 12.5e. W paid with a 50e and was handed 7.5e in return. There was a brief discussion when suddenly 30e appeared from his hand where it appeared to have been all along. We must look like easy marks!
Tuesday – Bought a 5day pass for the batobus because it was only 7e more than a 1day pass. Boarded at Hotel de ville. Deboarded at Champs Elysees – WOW! Began strolling past the palaces; Grand and Petite until we found ourselves on the Avenue des Champs Elysees.
Macaroons! Laduree is a beautiful patisserie on Av Champs and we purchased six macaroons and I began my new collection – one of their charming vinyl bags. We headed towards the Arc de Triompe noshing on one of our delicate macaroons; mine, rose petal flavored. Yum!
We then turned left onto beautiful quiet Avenue d’lena and came upon a gaggle of well heeled men talking excitedly as they exited a door marked -- the Ministy of Finance. We giggled to ourselves wondering if they were deciding who among them would fill the newly vacated seat for the IMF!
We wound our way toward the Trocadero and the Eiffel Tower. The size of the iron lady is overwhelming. Took lots of photos which I’m sure will impress those at home. Hopped on the batobus for St. Germain-des-Pres and had delicious salads nicoise al fresco at Bar du Marche on the corner of Rue di Buci.
Our legs were giving out and it was getting quite warm as we headed home on Blvd St germain. But wait! There’s Patrick Roger the chocolatier’s shop. 6e later we were on our way. 40 tightly wound stairs after this day was too much. I needed to do a quick laundry and rest for tonight.
The machine both washes the clothes and dries them! Pretty ingenious except it’s still doing it’s thing right now some two hrs later! Oh and that soap? It is Laundry softener! W had to return to the supermarket he swore never to enter again!
Did I tell you I bought a scarf? Not only does it double as a morning jacket it covered me when I napped this afternoon and it’s going to La Regalade tonight too! Oui!
May 17th, 2011, 08:12 AM
#18
Original Poster
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 399
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Avalon, ha! I'm sure there is much not to be understood when I attempt French. Thanks for the correction though.
Yes, with Guestapt and becoming enamoured with the charming managers. Muscari unit is quite suitable and well equipped.
The credit card is working! phew, thoght you all would have to wire $
Sebinah, customs was about an hour
Yes, with Guestapt and becoming enamoured with the charming managers. Muscari unit is quite suitable and well equipped.
The credit card is working! phew, thoght you all would have to wire $
Sebinah, customs was about an hour
