French/Spanish Basque Treasures
 

We are touring the Sp./Fr. Basque country by car in June for 3 weeks. Does anyone have any hidden treasures re: hotels, towns, restaurants, beaches that we wouldn't necessarily find in guide books - not looking for "top of the line" destinations. <BR>Thanks - Betty

Betty: On the other side of the Nivelle river from St-Jean-de-Luz is a town called Ciboure where the composer Maurice Ravel was born. It's full of wonderful seafood restaurants, and fine examples of 18th-century merchants' houses. <BR> <BR>For an incomparable view, go to the tiny mountain village of Sare, at the foot of the St-Ignace Pass. <BR> <BR>And if the history of the region interests you, read "The Basque History of the World." I don't have access to my copy right now and forget the author's name, but it's a recent publication and any bookstore should have it. It will add immeasurably to your appreciation of the region. <BR> <BR>

Betty, <BR>We’re headed to the Fr/Sp Basque country as well in late July for two+ weeks of in depth touring, and outside of the cities of San Sebastian (La Concha beach is truly lovely) and Bilbao, these are the villages we have put on our "hit" list, some which we know well, some we've yet to discover. The distances are not far. (I’ve added some moderately priced dining/hotel recs) <BR> <BR>In the French Pays Basque: <BR>St. Etienne de Baigorry (for Iroleguy wine tasting , the Hotel Arce and the Mon. market) <BR>St. Jean Pied-de-Port (for wonderful dining at Les Pyrennes and Iroleguy tasting at Domaine Etienne Brana) <BR>St. Jean de Luz (Hotel Deviniere, very nice beach, macaroons at Maison Adam, caramels at Dodin, table linens at Jean Vier, "ttoro", a Basque bouillabaise, at Au Chiperon, spa thalassotherapy treatments at Helianthal) <BR>Ascain <BR>Sare (Hotel Arraya or Olhabidea B&B, same owners) <BR>Larrun, near Sare (for the cogwheel train) <BR>Esplette (the red pepper town, Restaurant Euzkadi and Wed. morning market) <BR>Ainhoa (Hotel Ithurria) <BR>Agnos outside of Oloron St. Marie, in Bearn (Chateau d’Agnos-we’re spending 2 nights here) <BR>Nearby Barcus (Hotel/Restaurant Chillo) <BR>Arcangues (Le Moulin d’Alotz) <BR> <BR>On the Spanish side, in Euskadi: <BR>In province of Guipuzkoa- <BR>Hondarriba (Casa Rural Arotz Enea, we’ve stayed at the delightful Parador/Castle Carlos V-lunch at Hermandad de Pescadores on the Lonja, dinner at Ramon Roteta) <BR>Guetaria (Asador Kai) <BR>Pasajes de San Juan or Pasai Donibane in euskera (lunch at Casa Camara) <BR>In province of Vizcaya- <BR>The area around Gernika (Casa Rural Txopebenta and Restaurant Baserri Maitea and nice beach at Playa de Laida) <BR>The beautiful valley in the Durangesado around Axpe/Atxondo (Hotel Mendi Goikoa-we have 2 nights here-dine at Etxebarri on the plaza near the church-fabulous food!) <BR>Pasajes de San Juan (Pasai Donibane in euskera-have lunch at Casa Camara) <BR>Tiny, scenic perched village of Elantxobe (dining rm above the rustic Bar Itsasmin) <BR>Mundaka (Hotel Atalaya) <BR>Bermeo (Restaurante Jokin) <BR> <BR>Further west in province of Alava- <BR>Wonderful, tiny walled village of Laguardia, the capital of the Rioja Alavesa wine region <BR>(Hotel Castillo de Collado-adorable! Great food at Hotel Marixa) <BR>Hope this gives you some ideas. <BR>

Betty, <BR>Yes, please do read Basque History of the World, by Mark Kurlansky (Walker & Co, NY)! Great rec, StCirq! <BR>

Betty: <BR> <BR>I just hunted around in my files and found the business card I kept of a restaurant we really liked in St-jean-de-Luz (though I can hardly claim that it is a "hidden" gem - it's right in town and everything in that town in summer is rife with tourists). Still, it was one where we received a warm welcome, had a great meal, and felt we got great value: Restaurant Grill Irrintzina, 5, rue Saint Jean (right off the main shopping street in town, near the church) - 05-59-51-15-63. <BR> <BR>