DeniseM

I'm beginning to plan the first part of our Germany trip. We've never been to Germany so I'm trying to read the post and study the maps, train and boat schedules but it's still overwhelming trying to put it all together and know what is reasonable to do. We like to explore lots of places when traveling rather than a more leisurely pace.

DH and I are landing in Frankfurt April 28th and would like to take the train to the Rhineland to spend the first night and next day. I'd like to be in a town that we can spend the reminder of the day exploring, have a good nights sleep and then the next morning, take the Riverboat north through the scenic part of the Rhine. Eventually proceeding towards Cologne by train then ultimately Berlin.

My questions are:
1a) What towns do you recommend that are scenic for the first day?
1b) Any particular hotels that might have a nice view of the Rhine and have comfortable beds?
(So far I've found the Hotel am Markt in Bacharach.)

2) Can we take our luggage with us on the ride down the Rhine? We will have a "carry-on" bag and small bag each.

3) If yes, what town would you get off the boat?
(I'm looking at Braubach. How far would we have to go to get to the train station?)

4) Would you go directly to Berlin? I had thought of visiting Cologne firts. OR visit Castle Eltz.
This is where the schedule got confusing.

I started to consider whether it would make more sense to go from Frankfurt to Cologne, exploring Cologne the first day. Then, taking the train back down south of Koblenz to enjoy a few hours on the boat excursion. But this almost seems like backtracking.

Another option I considered was going from Frankfurt to Koblenz. Then seeing the Eltz and a cruise before heading to Berlin on an evening train.

I appreciate your thoughts!

Larryincolorado

First, I wouldn't go too far on the boat. It's very slow and time consuming and gets boring in a hurry. My suggestion is to take the boat down the river (that's North) from Bacharach to St. Goar. I think that is the most scenic part of the river. You get to see the Loreley and the Pfalzgrafenstein up close. The rest of the sights you can see from the train. By going from Bacharach to St. Goar you go with the current and the trip takes about 40 min rather the 70 min up the river.

So, that probably means you should spend the first night in Bacharach (www.bacharach.de). There is a lot to see there. As far as I know, you can take your bags on the boat. Unfortunately, all the hotel are on the far side of town from the station. I think it's about a half mile walk, but the boat dock is near the hotels.

When you get to St. Goar, be sure to take in the ruins of Rheinfels castle. Then take the train from there to Koblenz. If you also go to Burg Eltz, that will probably fill the second day.

From Cologne, take the train to Berlin. Because you no longer have to worry about a late flight, there are good non-refundable fares (Dauer-Spezial, from about €29 per person) to Berlin. You can use the fastest trains this way.

Russ

I agree with Larry - keep the cruise short - but it's probably best to check in somewhere first and then take your boat trip. Who knows how you'll be feeling on that first day? I'd head straight to St. Goar, check in or at least drop the bags, then cruise south to Bacharach (a bit over an hour) or train south to Bacharach and cruise north after a visit there. Many accommodations in St. Goar are right near the docks and the station.

Given your Berlin goal on day 2, I'd head for Braubach (ferry over from St. Goar, walk north to station, train from there) and hit Marksburg Castle - very good tour, much more convenient than Burg Eltz if not quite as special. No lockers in Braubach as far as I know. You can leave luggage at the TI if it's open that day. Alternatively, from St. Goar train north to Koblenz, stow luggage in a locker, and train south on the east bank to Braubach, which won't cost you that much more time.

Too bad you won't be staying longer. Every year on April 30 thee's a "wine-witch-night" celebration in Oberwesel - wine, fireworks, music, a newly-chosen wine witch is crowned, and a straw witch burned, symbolizing the death of the previous season.

DeniseM

Larry and Russ, thank you both for the information.

I found two hotels, one in Bacharach and one in Boppard. Google Earth was a great tool to look at the towns and get an idea of where they are located. The hotel (and room) in Boppard is on the river so boat accessibility is a plus. The Bacharach hotel isn't on the river but the town looks bigger and the buildings beautiful for scenic strolling.

I am only going by what I see online. Any thoughts?

Burg Eltz seems so fascinating. Is it worth spending an extra day in the area?

Russ

Boppard is actually a good deal larger than Bacharach in terms of infrastructure and population; it's a very nice town with outdoor cafes and a nice river promenade; a more authentic German town than Bacharach. Bacharach is quainter - more of the half-timbered buildings you associate with Old Europe - but with a bit less to see and do.

Burg Eltz is excellent but will involve a walk of nearly an hour each way from Moselkern station - a lovely walk, but time-consuming.

www.bensbauernhof.com/burgeltzfrommoselkern.html

DeniseM

I think we will add a day to enjoy Burg Eltz. I see a lot reference to Cochem. Since it's close to Moselkern, I'm thinking it would allow us to get up early to tour the castle without having to allow for extra travel time by train and then have the rest of the day and the next to see the area a bit.

I'm just starting to explore Cochem if anyone could share info and hotel recommendations. How would this compare to my original thoughts of staying in Boppard or Bacharach?

kkukura

We stayed at Pension Lettie in Bacharach and it was a short walk from the train station and just up a little from the boat dock. No problem getting to it and to other places in town since it is a small town. We took the boat cruise from Bacharach to St. Goar and then the train through Koblenz to Moselkern to do the hike to Burg Eltz.

Russ

Cochem is my personal favorite for the Mosel - gorgeous old town center, plenty of dining choices, good walking, good train and boat connections, gorgeous setting, plenty of places to stay. I find it even more attractive and compelling than the Rhine towns. I usually stay at the very friendly Mattes family B&B at Löhrstrasse 34, a couple of blocks from the town square - nice apartment or B&B set-up there, not bookable online though: tel. 02671/5448, limited English.

See Ben's suggestions as well:
www.bensbauernhof.com

The Alte Thorschenke seems the favorite upscale choice, maybe the closest of the old-town accommodations to the station. The Lohspeicher is right on the Market Square above their gourmet restaurant - never stayed there but an excellent location. It would surely be best to stay on the old-town side of the river for easier train station access. This place is outside the old town by a 10-minute walk or so but very close to the station, overlooks the river:

www.pension-dapper.de/

Click on "Zimmer" to see rooms.

With 2 nights there:

Day 1: Explore Cochem or possible cruise to Beilstein and back.

Day 2: Burg Eltz, one of the above.

Day 3: Early start, drop bags in Koblenz, then visit Marksburg in Braubach or train to Bacharach and cruise north to maybe St. Goar or Boppard, train to Koblenz, head to your next destination.

Add another day and see Trier - wonderful city - or hit the nearby spa town of Bad Bertrich.

valtor

We stayed at Pension Lettie in Bacharach. Very close to train station and boats dock, and in the center of this small and nice town.
The pension is nice, clean, good breakfast

From here we took the boat for a day trip to st. Goar.
Then we visited Berlin and Cologne, then stayed 5 night in Cochem, at a very nice pension Albers. This is on pietonal shopping street in old town. We has an apartment with bedroom, living, bathroom and a small kitchinette for 50 Euro / night.
From Cochem we visited by train Koblenz,Burg Eeltz, Trier, Luxemburg and by boat - Beilstein.

We enjoyed Mosel and Rhine valleys and all the towns we visited. I highly recommend pension Albers in Cohem.