franco

In fact, I wanted to tell about my favourite accomodation in Rome, which is an apartment (surprise!! – I almost exclusively rent apartments for longer stays, for those who don't know yet) ... but: I don't find it anymore on the web! Seems to have vanished, at least from the internet... actually, I still have the owners' names and phone numbers, but of course I can't post them here. They had more apartments than just "mine", all located in Trastevere. And the (very basic, but wonderfully familiar) "hotel", in fact, rather a "bed without breakfast" type of accomodation, which I used to rent prior to that, doesn't exist anymore (in this case, it's for sure – the owners have ceased activity due to their age).
Well, let's talk about Roman districts instead! Trastevere is certainly my favourite choice for accomodations – more precisely, the southern part of it, more or less opposite the Tiber island! That's a wonderfully unspoiled part of the historic center, and perfectly located re: getting around – most of the main bus routes head along the Tiber, and you can reach many parts of the center by foot: the northern, more famous (and more crowded) part of Trastevere, the ancient Ghetto, the Foro Boario.
Other wonderful choices include:
- the Ghetto
- the Campo de' Fiori – Piazza Farnese – Via Giulia area
- the Piazza Navona – Pantheon area (Rome's most beautiful neighbourhood, though maybe too crowded to make it my first choice for staying there)
- the part west of Piazza Navona, or north of the Chiesa Nuova
- or maybe the Aventine hill, if you prefer to stay a little away from the madhouse center of this bustling and whirling capital
I strongly advise against staying further away, however – the Vatican area for example is not a good idea, since it's not only boring and not too pretty, but first of all makes you lose hours: Rome is a huge city with an absolutely crazy traffic, and it's really important where you base yourself, or you will be wasting a considerable portion of your stay just traveling from your accomodation to the sights, and back.
The Termini (train station) surroundings, on the other hand, have very good transport connections, but that's an ugly neighbourhood (like most train station surroundings anywhere in the world) – and I mean the FAR surroundings of Termini, not just the immediate ones. Another district to avoid is the one between the Colosseum and the Lateran – that's the one and only part of historic Rome where safety is a problem (everyone advises not to go there at night, so I wouldn't want to have my apartment/hotel there!).
If public transport wouldn't take so much time in Rome, I'd almost like to recommend the Testaccio district, too – a hard-working neighbourhood from antiquity on (it was ancient Rome's harbour), and a colourful, interesting, and likeable (though not exactly pretty) district. But alas, not too conveniently located for sightseeing...
Btw, if you're coming to Rome by car, your choices are more limited – parking and driving is permitted to residents only in the very center, so you might prefer southern Trastevere or the Aventine with a car.

Please note: This thread is not primarily meant for discussion… it's primarily meant for substituting myself while work won't permit regular posting during the next six or so months. I'll try to check once a week, however, so if anyone would like me to answer any questions related to accomodation in Rome, please post them here – I won't unfortunately be able to browse all the other threads…

franco

I thought I’d provide one final service: linking all “Franco’s favourite…” threads to each other, in order to make them more easily accessible to future users:

Venice:
food & restaurants: http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34791666
accomodation: http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34791672
sightseeing & transportation: http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34791890

Rome:
food & restaurants http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34792415
sightseeing: http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34792538

Umbria: http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34792839

StCirq

Franco, I so appreciate your information! If you ever come to the Dordogne, let me know so I can reciprocate...

Here's a question for you: my daughter and I will be spending one night in Rome at the end of July on our way back from Umbria. We've always stayed near the Spanish Steps and this time we want to stay in Trastevere - really loved that neighborhood on our last trip to Rome.

Can you recommend a hotel there that's around 150€ a night (we'll spend more if we need to) that's atmospheric, traditional, close by some good eating spots, and not too far a walk into the center of Rome?

Anyone else feel free to chime in as well...

Grazie!

JeanneB

St Cirq:
You were so helpful when we visited the Dordogne a few years back. I'm happy for this chance to reciprocate.

Take a look at Hotel Parlamento. When we stayed there in January, their rooftop terrace rooms weren't available due to construction. But they kindly let me peek and I can highly recommend them. Nice rooms/baths. They serve breakfast on the terrace, but it's private to those rooms after 10am.

The location is excellent...we walked everywhere, including the Vatican (about 40 min). It's not "fancy", but it's nice and very hospitable.

You might want to get more info about whether the renovations are still underway.

http://www.hotelparlamento.it/

franco

StCirq - it's been several years ago that I visited the Dordogne, and I loved it... and le Gers, as well (Armagnac tastings!!). I hope to get back there, and if so, I'll certainly make use of your kind offer.
As for your question, I'm afraid I don't know (as I've stressed above) any Roman hotels, but the Hotel Parlamento, nice as it may be, is certainly nowhere near Trastevere, sorry, JeanneB. On venere, there are three hotels in the area of Trastevere that I like best:
http://en.venere.com/hotels_rome/tra...francesco.html
http://en.venere.com/hotels_rome/tra..._tiberina.html
http://en.venere.com/hotels_rome/tra...ere_house.html
I repeat, I know none of them, but they are all in superb locations, especially the Domus Tiberina, while the San Francesco might be the nicest hotel, judging by the pictures. For just one night, however, I must admit that I wouldn't care much about the hotel, as long as it is clean - for me, the district where it's located would be way more important (but hotels haven't much to attract me, anyway, since I'm an apartment rental buff, so I might be the wrong person to ask).

franco

In case that anybody hesitates to ask just because of my currently scarce presence on Fodor’s, I’d like to repeat that if you’d like me to answer any questions related to the topic of this thread, just post them here – I’m checking rarely, but regularly, but only my “own” threads due to work pressure.

franco

ttt

JandaO

franco,
I have rented an apartment in Rome at this address. VICOLO DELLE GROTTE N° 2.
It is near the Campo de Fiore. I have never stayed in this area. Do you know this street?
Thank you

franco

JandaO, I don't recall that precise lane, but according to the city map of Rome, it's just opposite Palazzo Spada, two steps from Palazzo Farnese and Campo de' Fiori, respectively, and that's certainly one of Rome's most beautiful neighbourhoods - great location! Congratulations to have found an apartment there, and enjoy your holiday!

zizz

Franco, is Hotel Della Torre Argentina quite decent. I wanted to stay near the Pantheon but everything seems very expensive or run-down. It's in a very busy street though. I'm afraid that I will need to be doubly wary of pickpockets or worst muggers.

JandaO

franco,
thank you so much for your reply. we are very excited about staying in that part of Rome. I have stayed near the trevi and the Vatican, so this should be a whole new perspective.

Spygirl

St. Cirq: how about staying just ABOVE Trastevere, in the Grand Hotel del Gianicolo? Check it out, I loved it, had a great room on the side-it's a newly renovated turn of the century Roman villa with green marble floors, yellow brocade walls and gleaming new bathrooms with windows and jacuzzi tubs. It ALSO has a lovely pool with a bar area that stays open until one a.m., and a wonderful but underused rooftop terrace. (remember, in Rome, it's all about the rooftop terrace).

One of the best restaurants in all of Rome is located just around the corner from the hotel- "Scarpone." (ski boot) The buses to take you up and down the hill to Trastevere are just outside the front and back of the hotel-or you can do the 15 min. walk down and see all the historic sites and magnificent views of Rome along the way, if you want. Check out the pictures of the hotel on Expedia-it looks just like that. Will stay there again when I pass through Rome.

franco

zizz - I don't know that hotel, of course (there are quite too many in Rome!), but the quarter is certainly splendid. Muggers? Not at all, that's not the district for that kind of bold crime. Pickpockets? Of course, they might be everywhere in Rome, but again, in this elegant part of the center, there is no particular need to worry.
The big con, however, is the street, as you've presumed. The traffic on Corso Vittorio Emanuele is HELL, and I'd insist to have a room with a window to the back of the hotel.

phillycheese

does anyone have any info on the hotel st moritz in the collosseum area? I have booked that for myself and 2 children for June - it did get good reveiws in fodor

samsmom1127

bookmark

franco

As some of you may have noticed, I'm back on Fodor's - but since these "favourite" threads have proved quite practicable, I invite everybody to continue posting questions here related to the subject of this thread.

cwoolner

JandaO - not sure if you will check this, but if you do - or is anyone else knows - what did you think of the Vicolo Delle Grotte??

franco - thanks so much for the posts about Rome and Venice. They are very, very helpful!

kfusto

Franco, thanks for the thread.

I will be in Rome on October with a group of friends. I enjoy the Del Senato but they have now priced themselves above my pain threshold.

I also enjoyed the Capo D'Africa but have to admit I was not thrilled with the location after being in the center.

I have a chance to stay at the Sofitel and wondered if this is convenient as well as being fairly quiet? I have also stayed at the Edera, the Empire Palace and a host of other places but this time wanted a bit of luxury at a good price. Also, I am a morning runner and this looked to be a great spot.

Grazie!

sabbin

Franco, I have enjoyed and found interesting all your threads. I would really appreciate if you could give your thoughts on these two apts. I am looking at renting this June. Location and quietness of the neighborhood is important to me. Thankyou Jim
http://www.sleepinitaly.com/files/apt_paradiso.html http://www.sleepinitaly.com/files/apt_giuliaA.html

franco

kfusto, the Sofitel location can be great, if you just know what to expect (and like it): central, no it's not. The high time of nearby Via Vittorio Veneto is long gone, it's a sleepy residential district of the highest possible rank, very calm, elegant, green, great no doubt for morning runners, and for everybody who wants to be away from the bustle of this sometimes chaotic city. No too far away, though - you can reach the bustling center in reasonable time.
The Sofitel is clearly beyond my budget, and yet I have a story to tell about it: just across via Lombardia from the Sofitel, there is the Casino dell'Aurora Ludovisi, a former garden pavillon, still large enough to pass for a luxurious (though deranged) villa nowadays, and it's still the private possession of the Counts Soandso (no, I don't think it's still the Ludovisi family, but am not sure). This Casino houses famous and truly great early Baroque frescoes by Guercino (the Rising of the Sun, hence the Casino's name) and Caravaggio (his only preserved frescoes), and it's rarely open, and difficult to get in, yet highly recommended - till June, you've time enough. I don't recall how exactly to get in, but I found out with Google's help - just once a week, or even rarer, I don't remember, and only by appointment by phone or fax. DO try to visit, it's worth the effort. Ok, back to the Sofitel: when I and another couple who had made the appointment for that day and that hour rang the Casino Ludovisi's bell, nobody would open the gate (the counts seem to be, ummm, weird somehow). The porter of the Sofitel saw that unhappy lot on the other side of the street, came out to help us, and rang the bell for us until they'd open (I guess that was not the first time he did that - he seemed quite used to their reluctance to answer the ringing bell). Well, I just think that kind of unasked helpfulness is a positive sign for that hotel, isn't it?

Jim, both apartments are attractive, but I clearly prefer the "via Giulia A" - first because I love via Giulia, second because I love old Florentine cotto pavements. As far as calm, you'll hardly find a better place in Rome center than via Giulia - the first planned (and therefore deadstraight) street of Rome, a magnificent example of Renaissance city planning. And a sightseeing hint for you, too: around the corner from via Giulia, don't miss San Girolamo della Carità, a plain Baroque church with two not-so-plain but gorgeous side chapels: on the right side, besides the main entrance, by Borromini; and left, besides the altar, by Filippo Juvarra, the second of Torino's great Baroque architects - his only Roman work, as far as I know. Difficult to get in here, as well - very grouchy nuns to persuade. A donation for the church helps a lot...