Anne

Greetings Fellow Travelers:<BR>In celebration of our 20th Anniversary, moi et mon mari made our way over to France, arriving Paris Oct.4. and then the train to Dijon. We have discovered the solution for jet lag....take a train into the country and start there. After a healthy lunch in the train station, we dozed on the train and woke up to the white cows grazing on the hillside. Arriving Dijon late afternoon, we took the taxi to our hotel, Phillip le Bon. The digs were adequate (double bed and bath tub), but the best part was their gourmet restuarant. After bathing and strolling aroung this exquisite town, we had our dinner in the courtyard restaurant and then stumbled across that very same courtyard into bed. Thus began the first day.<BR><BR>Woke up Saturday morning (thank god), and strolled into town where they had the Saturday market. With a little pan de raisen and croissant almondine we made our way to the cafe on the square for cafe noir and proceeded to watch the locals gather up goods in their wicker baskets. Had to purchase one for all of $6 because, just because. It makes a great beach bag and picnic basket.<BR><BR>I could go on and on about Dijon, and their market, and will post pictures on Sally's site once I relocate it. Rather than starting with the intensity of Paris, Dijon ( 1:45 minute train ride from Paris)was a perfect location to begin the trek into Burgundy and the Loire Valley. Ultimately wending our way to Normandy and finishing up with 4 nights in Paris. Whew! Hope you're ready to re-live it with me.<BR>Yours,<BR>Anne (formerly Dr. B.)

Eye Spy

I agree with you about Dijon and the TGV stops there so the travel time can be cut down enormously. But what you failed to mention is that Dijon is the culinary capital of Burgundy and that's why you had such delicious French food there. And the wines .......<BR>Glad to hear you had a nice trip. And Normandy? Where did you go? Rouen, Honfleur or anywhere in the Calvados?

Anne

Back to Saturday morning... Dijon is a great place for shopping. Whatever you forgot to bring or if you need new shoes or a new shirt or pants..it's all right there. I love going into the pharmacies because of the natural products for skin and health care. So I got some face cream called Vichy (oligo 25)and it's real nice, mostly because it's from France. We notice the timbre of the city is quiet...it's like being in a big room. The half timbered architecture and the carousel offers a relaxed atmosphere. <BR><BR>A word of advice about rental cars. Remember to pick them up by 11:00 A.M., unless you want to wait until 2:00 to pick it up. We would have left town sooner, but we forgot this very basic law of French life which is 'take 2 hours off and eat lunch for god's sake, oh and yes, relish that lunch and enjoy it.'<BR><BR>So we left town at about 2:30 and made our way deep into Burgundy. Let me tell you about the route.<BR>

Anne

Dear Eye Spye... all in good time, all in good time.

Fay

Good report, thanks so far. You mean you were Dr. Betty? Can't wait to hear more about the trip.

Anne

Before going onto the route description, the first day that you set down in a county sets the tone for your trip, n'est pas? And yes, the incredible dinner certainly helped to get things off to a good start. Dijon is very manageable and walkable. Next time I think we could stay an extra night to see some of the museums.<BR><BR>Now about that route into the heart of Burgundy. We had a glimpse of a wine tractor ladden with grapes around St. Nuits St. Georges, but made our way toward Cluny, where there is a impressive Abbaye and luxurious countryside to behold. We did not have time to visit the Abbaye but continued on to La Clayette, a beautiful private chateau en route to Chateaneuf de St. Maurice, where we had reserved a chambre d'hote. The 5 star michelen retaurant in Roanne, Trois Gros is very close by. We had made plans ahead to have dinner with Madame Chartier and what a splendid time it was... and what a meal, with fresh picked mushrooms for the beef bourgogne and the turine de la maison. This place does not have a web site, only a fax which is 03 85 26 26 60 or phone which is 03 85 26 26 60. This was our second visit here after being here 2 years ago with our 2 children and it is all that one could hope for. It is blisssss!

Anne

La clayette is not the chambre d'hote (the french B & B), but is on the way to La Violetterie in Saint Maurice les Chateauneuf, which I don't think you'll find on your map. From Dijon, take the main route south and exit at Lugny, which then takes you west to Cluny. From Cluny, head south toward La Calyette and then head in the direction of Chaufailles. Saint Maurice is then a right turn off the D985.<BR><BR>Burgundy is the most lush countryside in all of France, with rolling green pastured hills dotted with white cows and vineyards and forest. Sunday morning we woke to drizzle outside and classical music in the dining room, good coffee, stewed pears,homemade apricote jam,an array of fresh bread and the plate of local cheese.<BR><BR>We made our way out for a day of wine tasting starting in Beaujeu but arrived around noon when they take their break and weren't hungry enough for lunch. We then created a very circuitous southern route through the hills and little towns to discover Bois d'Oingt where we stopped for a beer in the local bar. By this time it was a round 2:00, we were hungry, but none of the restaurants were serving. A Leffe tasted good and we had balance bars from home. But now comes the best discovery of all...up the hill is the town of Oingt (most fun word to pronounce)and this is where the wine is harvested and the vinters offer their degustation. The caves were open, fires were burning, frommage was being sampled and saucicon (so much for being hungry). The artist's galleries were open and there was a feeling of warmth and welcoming on this otherwise drizzly Sunday afternoon. Along the walkway was a beautiful garden where a french woman and I admired the flowers and compared the similarity of names in French and english...zinnia, begonia, black eyed susan. Let's hear it for the Latins.

Don't

Hello Anne, denver .edu. How about "mon mari et moi" ?

Anne

Ramblin right along, in retrospect, we should have made those reservations at Trois Grois for Sunday night months ago because there was not much going on for restaurant choices in La Clayette by the time we got there. But a brilliant insight that really helped for any attitude challenges was 'There are no mistakes, only discoveries.' So we had pizza.<BR><BR>Not to bore you with every heart felt detail, the next day we headed toward Bourges, via Autun to see the roman ampitheater. Figured it was like seeing two countries for the price of one. We had no time to do justice in seeing this city but the theater was spectacular.<BR><BR>Bourges was a complete suprise. A beautifully preserved medieval city with pedestrian walks, and the magnificent gothic church of St.Etienne. The light streamed in through the stained glass and illuminated some strange looking figures, half-man half-beast types. We stayed at the Hotel Angletaire right in the middle of town. Walked to dinner to a very small restaurant (I'll have to look up the exact name) and sat down next to a young Italian man who spoke perfect Oxford English, French and of course Italian. We made friends with him and had a wonderful visit over dinner. Afterwards, walked to a jazz club for beers and talked music.

Anne

The ampitheater was okay, but you've seen one, you've seen them all. Don't think now it was worth the diversion. We could have gone straight on to Bourges, but then we may not have met our Italian friend had we gone to dinner earlier. We may not have seen all that incredible countryside in between. One just never knows.

Anne

After a night in Bourges and exploring the church the next day, we set off toward Tours along the chateau route. The toursist office in Bourges gave us a map with colour coded routes that sprang forth from Bourges in all different directions, mostly to the west toward Tours. It's overwhelming how much there is to potentially see. We opted for Chenonceau but passed up a worm farm where thousands of worms were spinning silk. A brilliant sunny fall day with the trees turned yellow on the pathway to the chateau set the mood for going back in time. <BR><BR>After passing through Tours, which remined me of Paramus New Jersey with all the stores and lights, we made our way to Le Clos de Ligre, the B &amp; B just 6 miles across the river from Chinon. This is a 19th C. gentleman's farm house beautifully refurbished. We slept in the room where the grapes were dropped in through the upper window and the grape press was a coffee table with glass on top. Limestone walls and big bathroom. Very comfortable for all of $64 including breakfast. Madame Charier's was $46/night.