Four Night Trip Round Normandy
 

In early October my wife and I plan to fly into DeGaull airport around mid-night between Sat-Sun and tour Normandy until Thu, when I need to be back in Paris in the evening for a business meeting. We will stay in Paris for three nights afterwards.
I have read the forums and some guides but now I need some help in putting it although to get the most out of this brief junket through Normandy, which seems so enchanting by from what I read.
Here is the plan, as best as I can put it together now. After resting for a few hours at a hotel at or around ithe airport, I plan to rent a car. I assume the best route is counterclock-wise. First Day (Sun) - CDG - Giverny-Rouen-Honfleur. Second Day (Mon) - Honfleur - Etretat & Coast - Bayeux. Third Day (Tue) - Bayeux - Fourth Day (Wed) - D-Day - Mont St. Michel at night. Fifth Day - Mont St. Michel (morning) - drive back to Paris & return car. We particularly like lodging with rooms with a view and would appreciate any suggestions. I thought the Best Western in Honfleur next to the inner harbor would have a scenic view, although we understand that the rooms are rather small. Any suggestions on the itinerary and accommodations would be a great help.

I think MSM may be a bridge too far.
We did this trip for 6 days. We arrived in the morning and went to Giverney and the night in Rouen.
Second night in Honfleur, and just enjoyed that town.
Stayed in Bayeux for 3 nights--touring Pegasus Bridge on the way to Bayeux. Then two days doing the beaches and tapestry, etc.
We drove back via Chartres and then to orly to return the car. the rental area there is just across from the taxi queue to get a cab into Paris.

You can take the train to Caen and rent a car from there. That would help with the jet lag. You are trying to do a lot. We stayed in Bayeux for three nights. It was a nice village. We did day trips from there but still never got to MSM.

Lots of driving if you're jet-lagged and sleepy. And you don't mention anything about the WWII sites in Normandy. Do you plan to see anything of those? Assuming so, here's my suggested itinerary:

Day 1: Giverny - Rouen
Sleep in Rouen
Day 2: Etretat - Honfleur - Bayeux
Sleep in Bayeux
Day 3: Bayeux tapestry/Caen Peace Museum
Sleep in Bayeux
Day 4: WWII sites
Sleep in Bayeux
Day 5: Drive to Deauville, tour the Pays d'Auge (go easy on the cider), drive to Paris.

I'm not sure Etretat is worth the detour. Is there a special reason you want to go there? And I've omitted Mont-St-Michel, due to time constraints. It's pretty much the end of the garden season for Giverny; it closes for the season Nov. 1, but I enjoyed the house almost as much.

Once you settle on an itinerary, give us a budget and we can recommend hotels. And sights to see along the way.

You have to go into Paris to get the train to Caen however--waste of time and money to me.
His idea of a hotel at CDG since they arrive so late is probably good.
I also recommend getting the Michelin Green Guide to Normandy. It has wonderful ideas for highways to drive, such as the Abbey Road leaving Rouen going toward Honfleur--a string of medieval abbeys along the route.
It will also give a great overview of touring the beaches, and the stories.

>> (Sun) CDG - Giverny-Rouen-Honfleur.

I would skip Rouen. On Sunday all the shops will be closed and the city will feel kind of dead. Perhaps catch on on the way back to Paris.

>>Second Day (Mon) - Honfleur - Etretat & Coast - Bayeux.<<

Nice coastal walks/views at Etretat

>>Fifth Day - Mont St. Michel (morning) - drive back to Paris & return car.<<

I would drive to Rennes (one of our favorite cities in France), return the car, visit, and then take the TGV to Paris. I would not want to be driving into Paris - unless you have done it before and have succeeded. Rennes & Rouen are somewhat similar - so Rennes would make for up skipping Rouen.

The Normandy coast is farther north than anywhere in the US (except Alaska). We live in the San Francisco area, and our garden has pretty much pooped out by late October. I'm guessing that Giverny's garden won't look that great. We were underwhelmed with it anyway - as we were the house.

Stu Dudley

Agree with the others that it is probably a bit rushed to fit it all in. See my TR for photos and more:

http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...y-uk-stops.cfm

I think chazman has a good chance of doing this trip - if he skips Rouen and takes the TGV back to Paris from Rennes

Sun
-Land at CDG, pick up car, & drive to Giverny - 1 1/3 hr drive. Leave CGD at 9 & arrive at Giverny at 10:20
- Visit Giverny 10:20-noon.
- drive to Etretat 2 hrs noon-2PM
- visit the Falaises at Etretat 2 to 4PM
- Drive to Honfleur 1 hr. 4PM to 5PM.
- wander Honfleur

Mon
Explore Honfleur
Drive to Caen, visit museum, then Pegases Bridge & museum, Arromanches (museum & theater), stay in Bayeux. Visit Tapestry tonight or in the morning. Same with invasion museum in Bayeux.

Tues
visit US Landing beaches, cemetery, etc.
Stay in Bayeux

Wed
-Drive 1 3/4 hrs to MSM & visit. Should not be overly crowded on a week day in late Oct. If you leave Bayeux at 8 you should get to MSM by 10.
- visit MSM 10-1:00.
- Drive to Rennes - 1 1/4 hrs. Get there by 3:00, dump the car at the rental offices next to the train station (check opening times), stay at a hotel near the train station.
- Explore Rennes

Thurs
- Explore Rennes.
- There are hourly trains departing for Paris. 2 1/4 hr trip. If your meeting on Friday is in the afternoon, you could even leave Rennes on Friday morning & spend more time in Normandy. You are missing our favorite region there - the Pays d'Auge.

Stu Dudley

Wed

If you leave MSM by 1PM, visit Chateau Fougeres on the way to Rennes.

Stu Dudley

Thanks for all of your helpful comments on the itinerary. A few bits of information to tighten up the travel plans. Luckily we won't be jet lagged, just tired from the late evening flight. Second, I need to be back in Paris by Thursday around 5PM to check-in and make a dinner engagement around 8PM. The idea of returning the car early and taking the train back to Paris is really intriguing. No, I have never driven in Paris and would have to rely exclusively on the GPS, while maneuvering through traffic. Now I am a bit anxious about returning the car to Paris. I will have to sharpen my pencil and get back to the trip plan. Please keep the useful ideas and information coming.

Stu, Following your itinerary. Anyway to work in Pays d'Auge by shortening visit to landing beaches & cemetaries, Rennes?
All, Is it worthwhile to see MSM at night in addition to in the day?
Thanks to all.

The train is a good idea, but you don't have to drive IN Paris if you return the car to Orly--IF you want to drive back from as far as MSM. Probably less anxiety on a train.

>>Stu, Following your itinerary. Anyway to work in Pays d'Auge by shortening visit to landing beaches & cemetaries, Rennes? <<

Sure. See below. The stars represent the ratings given to the site in the Michelin Green Guide for Normandy. If I think it is better or worse than the GG rating - I'll add a + or -. This is from my Normandy & Brittany itinerary. I've sent over 5,000 copies of my various itineraries to people on Fodors. If you would like a copy, e-mail me at [email protected] & I'll attach a copy to the reply e-mail.

Do this Monday morning.

Pays d’Auge*++ see PAYS D’AUGE in the Green Guide
This is the Normandy countryside that makes this region famous. Follow the route in the Michelin guide. From Honfleur, head towards Pont l’Eveque, and then get on the D48 heading south towards Lisieux. Skip Lisieux* and then get on the D64 heading south from Lisieux. Follow the route clockwise.

While on the above GG route:
- St Germain de Livet*+. This is a very pretty chateau.
- Liverot – this town is famous for its cheese by the same name – one of the best in Normandy. There is a very good self-guided tour through a cheesemaking facility just to the south of town on the “white” road that runs through town (not the D579). There are a few half-timbered buildings in town (BTW, I would not recommend a visit to Camembert)

Once back at Lisieux, head west on the N13, then the D50 & find your way to Cambremer. First, stop at Pierre Huet for a tour of the Calvados distillery, and then a tasting. Then walk 100 meters to the wonderful Les Jardins du Pays d’Auge*+. This was by far the best gardens we visited in the region.

After the gardens, take the D101 southwest to Crevecoeur en Auge (see CREVECOEUR in the GG). Crevecoeur is an interesting Chateau*, although it’s more of a series of buildings where there are displays and films about Normandy Architecture.

Retrace your route east on the N13 to La Boissiere, and then head north on the D59, continuing on to the D117/D85/D146 to Beuvron en Auge*+. This is a very pretty village – perhaps the “cutest” in Normandy. Our gite was very close to here, and we had a very nice dinner at the Michelin 1 star Le Pave d’Auge* in Beuvron.

Other “attractions” in the area:
- Chateau Vendeuvre** very nice garden also.
- St Pierre sur Dives Monday morning market in an old timbered hall and outside on the parking lot & street. Town is not worth visiting by itself.
- Poterie du Mesnil de Bavent. If you have noticed lots of ceramic finials on buildings – this is where they are made and sold. We spent a lot of time here. www.poterie-bavent.com . It is located between the towns of Bavent & Ranville on the D513 where it meets the D224
- Falaise* – newly opened William the Conqueror museum* in the Chateau. It was only OK. Good Sat morning market. We enjoyed the Automates museum.
- Suisse Normande** see SUISSE NORMANDE in the GG follow the route outlined. Clecy*- is mentioned and we visited the Sunday market there (not that great), and we didn’t see much that we liked in the village.
- Carrouges Chateau** See CARROUGES in GG. This is an extremely picturesque and interesting Chateau – don’t miss.

Recommended Restaurants
- Le Dauphine. A Michelin 1 star in La Breuil en Auge. See my wife’s write-up at the back of this itinerary.
- Le Pave d’Auge in Beauvon en Auge. Another Michelin 1 star but more touristy than the others.
- Auberge de l’Abbaye in Beaumont en Auge. Delightful & cozy place. See my wife’s write up.
- Chateau les Bruyeres. Very nice place. If you don’t want to stay in Honfleur and would rather stay in the “interior” of Normandy in the beautiful Pays d’Auge, this hotel/restaurant would be a good choice.
http://www.chateaulesbruyeres.com/uk...-normandy.html .

End of info from my Normandy/Brittany itinerary

Sleep in Bayeux

Tuesday, Get to Caen at 9:00 when it opens and visit the museum. Then Pegases Bridge, Arromanches, landing beaches/cemetery, etc.

Wed
Visit any D-day/Tapestry stuff you missed.
off to MSM Visit, and then get to Rennes by 5pm & return the car. Explore old Rennes a bit.

Thurs
Explore old Rennes a little more.
Then take one of the following TGVs to Paris Montparnasse station:
Lv at 12:33 & arrive at 2:53
Lv at 2:03 & arrive at 4:38

Stu Dudley

The train is a good idea, but you don't have to drive IN Paris if you return the car to Orly--IF you want to drive back from as far as MSM. Probably less anxiety on a train.<<

Agree
I found driving CDG to Normandy pretty easy even after a long flight, but from Loire Valley to my Hotel in Paris not so

Chateaus in Pays d'Auge - We thought to stay at Chateau les Bruyeres while touring the Pays d'Auge following Stu's suggestion. Unfortunately, it is not available. Any ideas for similar chateaus in the area, where we could spend one night?

Chateau du Mesnil d'O - Does anyone know anything about this chateaux? Strangely, I can't find any reviews. Thanks for any advice you can offer.