Four Friends, Eight days, Easter Week in Rome-a Trip Report
Mar 31st, 2008, 02:25 PM
#42
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The photos for Day 2 can be see at:
http://www.wired2theworld.com/ROME2008Day2.html
Missypie-no, I don't think I saw your kids, but we did see quite a lot of groups!
Ceb-Yep! that was my report on Southern Spain you read in '05. There are a few more trips on my website since then.
Hazel- We LOVED Frigidarium and adored Fabrizio. He was such a sweetheart, I just want to tell everyone about the place!
Everyone else~Thanks so much for all the lovely comments! I really appreciate it.
http://www.wired2theworld.com/ROME2008Day2.html
Missypie-no, I don't think I saw your kids, but we did see quite a lot of groups!
Ceb-Yep! that was my report on Southern Spain you read in '05. There are a few more trips on my website since then.
Hazel- We LOVED Frigidarium and adored Fabrizio. He was such a sweetheart, I just want to tell everyone about the place!
Everyone else~Thanks so much for all the lovely comments! I really appreciate it.
Mar 31st, 2008, 03:19 PM
#43
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Loving your trip report and am echoing everyone else's comments on your travelogue site - it's fantastic.
Reading reports like this make me wonder how I'm ever going to survive until my September trip to Rome!
Reading reports like this make me wonder how I'm ever going to survive until my September trip to Rome!
Mar 31st, 2008, 05:04 PM
#46
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Kristina...
I'm glad to see your comments on Armando al Pantheon. I really want to have a meal there.
I was in Rome for Christmas and failed to note Armando al Pantheon was closed on Saturday, until I was standing at the front door! Live and learn! I ended up at another place not far away that was another Ekscrunchy recommendation!
I'll be back in Rome this Christmas and will be sure to make a reservation before I leave home!
Also, I'm LOVING your website...Amazing Detail!
I'm glad to see your comments on Armando al Pantheon. I really want to have a meal there.
I was in Rome for Christmas and failed to note Armando al Pantheon was closed on Saturday, until I was standing at the front door! Live and learn! I ended up at another place not far away that was another Ekscrunchy recommendation!
I'll be back in Rome this Christmas and will be sure to make a reservation before I leave home!
Also, I'm LOVING your website...Amazing Detail!
Mar 31st, 2008, 05:06 PM
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My Hubby loved your website. "It's like we're there!" was his comment.
And it seemed to me that most of the polizia in Rome were oozing cuteness. And that Swiss Guard in your pic -- yummy!
Reading your report has been a lovely way to relax after a long day of screaming kids -- Thanks!
And it seemed to me that most of the polizia in Rome were oozing cuteness. And that Swiss Guard in your pic -- yummy!
Reading your report has been a lovely way to relax after a long day of screaming kids -- Thanks!
Mar 31st, 2008, 05:09 PM
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Kristina: I am so enjoying your trip report and your description of Armando al Pantheon put me over the edge. I got on line and sent in my request for a dinner reservation for our trip in May, for a Thursday night, naturally, for the Oxtail. I can't wait for the next installment of your report. Thank you. J
Mar 31st, 2008, 05:24 PM
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jdraper- about a week before you go, email them again and tell them you want to reserve an order of oxtail for your Thursday reservation. If not, you may not get one!
mebe-yes, the polizia were pretty cute too. Wait 'til I get to the story about one in the ladie's restroom at the Borghese gallery. I haven't written it yet, so don't let me forget.
LCI-Yes, Armando's is worth a trip and reservations are essential. They are really small.
mebe-yes, the polizia were pretty cute too. Wait 'til I get to the story about one in the ladie's restroom at the Borghese gallery. I haven't written it yet, so don't let me forget.
LCI-Yes, Armando's is worth a trip and reservations are essential. They are really small.
Mar 31st, 2008, 07:02 PM
#52
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Dina-No, we didn't do the free Pantheon tour. We were there for 8 days and there was still so much on my itinerary we didn't do, I just have to go back!
<b>Tuesday March 18, 2008
Vatican Museum </b>
For breakfast, we do what will become our habit; coffee, foamed milk and fresh bread along with the optional yogurt or sometimes eggs.
Today we have a guided tour of the Vatican Museum scheduled at 10:30 AM through the museum itself. Before we left, I'd emailed for a reservation for a guided tour in English. The email address is not on their web site for some reason, but it does work: [email protected] .
Tell them the date you want, how many people and the language of the tour. The tour costs 29.5 euro (regular admission is 14 euro), though the ticket says 25.5 I think there is now some sort of 4 euro surcharge.
We leave around 9:30 to walk over to the museum and about half way there I have a sudden sinking feeling; I've forgotten the print out of the email confirmation for the tour.
We decide to press on since we have not paid for this in advance, the worst thing that can happen is we are turned away, miss the tour and have to wait in line to go through on our own.
We arrive at St Peter's square, go though the colonnade to the right and begin following the outside wall of the Vatican around to the museum entrance. Almost as soon as we leave the square, the line begins and it goes the full width of the sidewalk, for the entire way around; almost a 1/2 mile (we think, it seems longer).
I'm really nervous now, thinking we may not get in, but there is a separate line for "groups" and a guy with a clipboard. We approach him and say we have reservations for the tour, but not the confirmation letter. He frowns and asks "Name?". I tell him and there it is, my name on the list! We all breathe a sigh of relief.
We wait another 10 minutes (as we are really early) and then are allowed to go inside to buy our tickets. There is a special line for reserved tour tickets and we must wait in that one and then another to pay. It's possible to pay with a credit card so we do and then wait in a special section for our guide. While waiting, J and T try to go check our coats, but the "check" area is only for large bags, not coats.
The guide shows up and issues everyone a headset and receiver so we can hear her talking and she won't have to shout. Of course, the museum is very crowded and we will have to struggle to stay near her during the tour- if she gets too far away or into another room, we lose reception.
Our guide's name is Tzetana and she explains she will lead us through the various rooms ending at the Sistine Chapel where she will leave us. However, she will explain the details of the chapel before we arrive. Photos are allowed throughout the tour, just no flash. No camera, no photos at all allowed in the Sistine Chapel.
The tour takes us outside for a moment to see some of the gardens and get a little history of the building, then back inside where Tzetana finds a display of the Sistine chapel to go over the details. Then we're off; we go out into the central courtyard and in and out of so many rooms and halls I cannot remember them all.
By the time we arrive at the Sistine Chapel I am exhausted. David and I spend about 15 minutes in there listening to the guards admonish everyone not to talk with a loud Shhhhhhhhh! every 3 minutes or so.
We agree to meet up later with J and T who want to spend more time in the chapel and in the museum. David and I want lunch and I want to see if I can find a local market I'd read about. J and T end up staying in the chapel for almost an hour and the have a have a "surprisingly great lunch (pasta, salad & boxed white wine!) in The Vatican Cafeteria" (according to J). They then explore The Vatican Museum and gift shop for another two hours or so and meet us later at home.
<b>Tuesday March 18, 2008
Vatican Museum </b>
For breakfast, we do what will become our habit; coffee, foamed milk and fresh bread along with the optional yogurt or sometimes eggs.
Today we have a guided tour of the Vatican Museum scheduled at 10:30 AM through the museum itself. Before we left, I'd emailed for a reservation for a guided tour in English. The email address is not on their web site for some reason, but it does work: [email protected] .
Tell them the date you want, how many people and the language of the tour. The tour costs 29.5 euro (regular admission is 14 euro), though the ticket says 25.5 I think there is now some sort of 4 euro surcharge.
We leave around 9:30 to walk over to the museum and about half way there I have a sudden sinking feeling; I've forgotten the print out of the email confirmation for the tour.
We decide to press on since we have not paid for this in advance, the worst thing that can happen is we are turned away, miss the tour and have to wait in line to go through on our own.
We arrive at St Peter's square, go though the colonnade to the right and begin following the outside wall of the Vatican around to the museum entrance. Almost as soon as we leave the square, the line begins and it goes the full width of the sidewalk, for the entire way around; almost a 1/2 mile (we think, it seems longer).
I'm really nervous now, thinking we may not get in, but there is a separate line for "groups" and a guy with a clipboard. We approach him and say we have reservations for the tour, but not the confirmation letter. He frowns and asks "Name?". I tell him and there it is, my name on the list! We all breathe a sigh of relief.
We wait another 10 minutes (as we are really early) and then are allowed to go inside to buy our tickets. There is a special line for reserved tour tickets and we must wait in that one and then another to pay. It's possible to pay with a credit card so we do and then wait in a special section for our guide. While waiting, J and T try to go check our coats, but the "check" area is only for large bags, not coats.
The guide shows up and issues everyone a headset and receiver so we can hear her talking and she won't have to shout. Of course, the museum is very crowded and we will have to struggle to stay near her during the tour- if she gets too far away or into another room, we lose reception.
Our guide's name is Tzetana and she explains she will lead us through the various rooms ending at the Sistine Chapel where she will leave us. However, she will explain the details of the chapel before we arrive. Photos are allowed throughout the tour, just no flash. No camera, no photos at all allowed in the Sistine Chapel.
The tour takes us outside for a moment to see some of the gardens and get a little history of the building, then back inside where Tzetana finds a display of the Sistine chapel to go over the details. Then we're off; we go out into the central courtyard and in and out of so many rooms and halls I cannot remember them all.
By the time we arrive at the Sistine Chapel I am exhausted. David and I spend about 15 minutes in there listening to the guards admonish everyone not to talk with a loud Shhhhhhhhh! every 3 minutes or so.
We agree to meet up later with J and T who want to spend more time in the chapel and in the museum. David and I want lunch and I want to see if I can find a local market I'd read about. J and T end up staying in the chapel for almost an hour and the have a have a "surprisingly great lunch (pasta, salad & boxed white wine!) in The Vatican Cafeteria" (according to J). They then explore The Vatican Museum and gift shop for another two hours or so and meet us later at home.
Apr 1st, 2008, 05:06 AM
#53
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<b>Lunch at Dal Toscano</b>
It's about 1:30 when we exit the museum and by then, the line is nonexistent.
We look at my list of restaurants and sights and determine that we've probably missed the best of the market due to the late time so we opt to go straight to lunch. The closest place on the list which isn't a pizzeria is a restaurant called "Dal Toscano al Girarrosto".
The place is known for its big hunks of roasted meats, and while we see plenty on other diner's plates, we order lighter fare.
When we arrive, the place is about half empty, but quickly fills with a mix of mostly locals (businessmen, groups of friends, and even a few priests) and a small percentage of tourists.
We order a bowl of <i>Pasta e Fagioli</i> for David (excellent) and a <i>Carciofo alla Romana</i> for me. We also get <i>Picatta di Vitello al Limone</i> (Veal Picatta) for D and a pasta, <i>Mezzemaniche alla Melanzane e Ricotta</i> for me. The pasta is very al dente and also includes olives and a tomato sauce. It's very good, but I wish more more eggplant.
Our orders meet with the approval of the locals at the table next to us; an eighty-something woman and her daughter. Lunch with a bottle of beer, a bottle of water and the bread/cover and additional "service" was 46 euro.
<i>An aside about the bread/cover charge you see in most restaurants in Italy:</i> We wondered if they charge you even if you do not eat the bread. Indeed they do.
In fact, this restaurant was a bit confusing because the "baskets" of bread (small, medium and large), were listed on the menu with their corresponding prices.
In this case, we did not eat any of the 3 slices of bread in the basket, yet we were charged 3 euro ($4.50). We asked the waiter about this and he said (in a good natured way), "well, we don't charge you for the napkins and the plates!".
I think this is just a fundamental cultural difference for us. I work in the restaurant industry and of course, we do not charge for bread, but we serve it. The cost is built in to the menu items instead of being separate. This would make sense if the menu items in Italy were correspondingly less expensive, but they are not. Personally, I think to charge (extra or separately) for something a person does not touch or consume is unreasonable, but I understand this is way things are done there and I'm certainly not going to stop dining out when in Italy. <i>Ok, rant over.</i>
After lunch we walk back past St Peter's stopping to take a few more photos. Then, back to the apartment for a rest.
Late in the afternoon David and I walk back up to the Castel Sant 'Angelo to buy our Romapasses.
The Romapass allows entrance to two sites on their list for free and then discounted admission to others. It it valid for 3 days and includes a three day transportation pass good for busses, metro and regional commuter trains. It is not good for the Vatican museum or for the Leonardo Express to the airport.
The passes are 20 euro a piece and we wanted to buy them today because we will need them for our first use at 9AM Thursday morning at the Borghese Gallery and tomorrow we will be gone all day.
The purchase is easy and the castel looks so interesting I want to come back when we can use the pass to enter. On the way back to the apartment we stop at a small house wares store and buy 2 dishtowels as there are none in the apartment.
It's about 1:30 when we exit the museum and by then, the line is nonexistent.
We look at my list of restaurants and sights and determine that we've probably missed the best of the market due to the late time so we opt to go straight to lunch. The closest place on the list which isn't a pizzeria is a restaurant called "Dal Toscano al Girarrosto".
The place is known for its big hunks of roasted meats, and while we see plenty on other diner's plates, we order lighter fare.
When we arrive, the place is about half empty, but quickly fills with a mix of mostly locals (businessmen, groups of friends, and even a few priests) and a small percentage of tourists.
We order a bowl of <i>Pasta e Fagioli</i> for David (excellent) and a <i>Carciofo alla Romana</i> for me. We also get <i>Picatta di Vitello al Limone</i> (Veal Picatta) for D and a pasta, <i>Mezzemaniche alla Melanzane e Ricotta</i> for me. The pasta is very al dente and also includes olives and a tomato sauce. It's very good, but I wish more more eggplant.
Our orders meet with the approval of the locals at the table next to us; an eighty-something woman and her daughter. Lunch with a bottle of beer, a bottle of water and the bread/cover and additional "service" was 46 euro.
<i>An aside about the bread/cover charge you see in most restaurants in Italy:</i> We wondered if they charge you even if you do not eat the bread. Indeed they do.
In fact, this restaurant was a bit confusing because the "baskets" of bread (small, medium and large), were listed on the menu with their corresponding prices.
In this case, we did not eat any of the 3 slices of bread in the basket, yet we were charged 3 euro ($4.50). We asked the waiter about this and he said (in a good natured way), "well, we don't charge you for the napkins and the plates!".
I think this is just a fundamental cultural difference for us. I work in the restaurant industry and of course, we do not charge for bread, but we serve it. The cost is built in to the menu items instead of being separate. This would make sense if the menu items in Italy were correspondingly less expensive, but they are not. Personally, I think to charge (extra or separately) for something a person does not touch or consume is unreasonable, but I understand this is way things are done there and I'm certainly not going to stop dining out when in Italy. <i>Ok, rant over.</i>
After lunch we walk back past St Peter's stopping to take a few more photos. Then, back to the apartment for a rest.
Late in the afternoon David and I walk back up to the Castel Sant 'Angelo to buy our Romapasses.
The Romapass allows entrance to two sites on their list for free and then discounted admission to others. It it valid for 3 days and includes a three day transportation pass good for busses, metro and regional commuter trains. It is not good for the Vatican museum or for the Leonardo Express to the airport.
The passes are 20 euro a piece and we wanted to buy them today because we will need them for our first use at 9AM Thursday morning at the Borghese Gallery and tomorrow we will be gone all day.
The purchase is easy and the castel looks so interesting I want to come back when we can use the pass to enter. On the way back to the apartment we stop at a small house wares store and buy 2 dishtowels as there are none in the apartment.
Apr 1st, 2008, 07:11 AM
#55
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Kristina
I have a question, but first, comments: I'm loving your report and your trip website. Both are fabulous.
But I couldn't sleep last night for fear of being in the Scavi tour with a full bladder. I am freaked out.
Our tour is at 9:15 on Monday morning. We will have coffee and a roll then probably get a taxi or bus from Trastevere.
If we get to the Basilica in plenty of time, do you think we can go to the bathroom without lines (the one the seminarian took you to) before we check in to our Scavi tour, or is it inaccessible from the Scavi entrance where we show our email to the Swiss Gaurd?
And I wonder what the regular bathroom line is like at say, 5 to 9?
What a weird problem to have, but due to a health problem, I need to know.
Kristina? Anyone? Should I repost?
I have a question, but first, comments: I'm loving your report and your trip website. Both are fabulous.
But I couldn't sleep last night for fear of being in the Scavi tour with a full bladder. I am freaked out.
Our tour is at 9:15 on Monday morning. We will have coffee and a roll then probably get a taxi or bus from Trastevere.
If we get to the Basilica in plenty of time, do you think we can go to the bathroom without lines (the one the seminarian took you to) before we check in to our Scavi tour, or is it inaccessible from the Scavi entrance where we show our email to the Swiss Gaurd?
And I wonder what the regular bathroom line is like at say, 5 to 9?
What a weird problem to have, but due to a health problem, I need to know.
Kristina? Anyone? Should I repost?
Apr 1st, 2008, 07:56 AM
#56
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tuscan- Fear not. I'm sorry if I caused you undue stress.
Just try to get there with plenty of time to spare. The restrooms on the left side of the Basilica (the ones with the lines) probably won't be as crowded when you are there. We were there during Easter Week so it was very crowded. Hopefully they won't be that bad earlier in the morning.
In order to get to the restrooms on the right side of the Basilica, you will have to wait in line to get through the Basilica security, so that really doesn't make sense. And yes, it's really not accessable after you pass the Swiss Guards. You would have to leave and re-enter, I think.
LCI- Yes, I think the romapass is worth it. We used it for free entrance to the Borghese and ostia antica, so there it paid for itself. Then we got reduced admission to the colliseum and castel sant angelo (admission half off plus 1 euro), plus we must have used it for at least 6 bus rides (1 euro each) and the train out to Ostia, so I think it was a good value. I would have liked to use it to see more sights, but we just didn't seem to have the time.
Just try to get there with plenty of time to spare. The restrooms on the left side of the Basilica (the ones with the lines) probably won't be as crowded when you are there. We were there during Easter Week so it was very crowded. Hopefully they won't be that bad earlier in the morning.
In order to get to the restrooms on the right side of the Basilica, you will have to wait in line to get through the Basilica security, so that really doesn't make sense. And yes, it's really not accessable after you pass the Swiss Guards. You would have to leave and re-enter, I think.
LCI- Yes, I think the romapass is worth it. We used it for free entrance to the Borghese and ostia antica, so there it paid for itself. Then we got reduced admission to the colliseum and castel sant angelo (admission half off plus 1 euro), plus we must have used it for at least 6 bus rides (1 euro each) and the train out to Ostia, so I think it was a good value. I would have liked to use it to see more sights, but we just didn't seem to have the time.
Apr 1st, 2008, 08:04 AM
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Kristina,
Thanks for the feedback, I was leaning towards buying the RomaPass, now it's a definite!
Tuscanlifeedit,
I did the Scavi tour in December (Christmas week) and had an early start time like you. We got to the Vatican about 30 minutes early (8:30am-ish) and there were very few people in the piazza. I've got pictures of the basilica with no one in them that's how deserted it was!
There was no line for the public toilets to the left of the Scavi entry (near the Vatican post office). Now, this may have been the case since it was during the holidays (Dec. 28th,), it may be another story when you are there. When we finished our tour the piazza was much more crowded.
Enjoy your tour...I thought it was GREAT!
Thanks for the feedback, I was leaning towards buying the RomaPass, now it's a definite!
Tuscanlifeedit,
I did the Scavi tour in December (Christmas week) and had an early start time like you. We got to the Vatican about 30 minutes early (8:30am-ish) and there were very few people in the piazza. I've got pictures of the basilica with no one in them that's how deserted it was!
There was no line for the public toilets to the left of the Scavi entry (near the Vatican post office). Now, this may have been the case since it was during the holidays (Dec. 28th,), it may be another story when you are there. When we finished our tour the piazza was much more crowded.
Enjoy your tour...I thought it was GREAT!
Apr 1st, 2008, 10:05 AM
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<b>Ristorante Pancrazio </b>
Tonight's dinner is at Ristorante Pancrazio where we'd visited yesterday to look at the ruins of the Theater of Pompey. When we arrive, the restaurant is practically empty and we are sat on the main floor near a cool caged in "cave" with dusty old bottles of wine. Apparently, they only seat the downstairs when very busy (something they'd told me when I made the reservation).
D and J both start with a Kir Royale and T with a Beer. I am saving myself for the wine and the waiter gives me a hard time. We can tell he's going to be a joker and he is, mugging for photos, taking our pictures, bringing us postcards of the restaurants (the one for me says "My Love!!"-Enzo and includes his email address). The man has no shame.
For the wine, we order another Sicilian, this time a Nero de Avola called Passo delle Mule, 2005.
For Primi, we order an Octopus Salad with Pesto and Potatoes, Steamed Clams, and Stewed Fava Beans with Peas and Artichokes. I very much like the octopus as it's perfectly cooked, J loves the clams and the fava beans are quite tasty.
For secondi, we order two pastas; Amatriciana Buccatini and Ravioli with artichokes. The waiter brings the pastas to the table and splits each onto 4 plates for us. Both pastas are fine, but the process of splitting them allows them to get cool by the time they reach the table.
For our main courses we have an order of Ossobucco, beef Tournedos w/Madiera and Fois Gras, and and some sort of Veal dish with melted cheese. We also get an order of mixed vegetables which comes to the table fried (suggestion of the waiter). Even though we all know he said "fried" we all envisioned something different. The ossobucco is good, the foie gras on the beef is a tiny quarter sized nugget and the veal is unmemorable. The fried vegetables are good, but we all wanted something a little more "healthy" so they go unfinished.
We did not have dessert (way too much food!) but did have a few glasses of Amaro, this time, the waiter's favorite "Monteverde".
Dinner for four was 181.50 euros.
Tonight's dinner is at Ristorante Pancrazio where we'd visited yesterday to look at the ruins of the Theater of Pompey. When we arrive, the restaurant is practically empty and we are sat on the main floor near a cool caged in "cave" with dusty old bottles of wine. Apparently, they only seat the downstairs when very busy (something they'd told me when I made the reservation).
D and J both start with a Kir Royale and T with a Beer. I am saving myself for the wine and the waiter gives me a hard time. We can tell he's going to be a joker and he is, mugging for photos, taking our pictures, bringing us postcards of the restaurants (the one for me says "My Love!!"-Enzo and includes his email address). The man has no shame.
For the wine, we order another Sicilian, this time a Nero de Avola called Passo delle Mule, 2005.
For Primi, we order an Octopus Salad with Pesto and Potatoes, Steamed Clams, and Stewed Fava Beans with Peas and Artichokes. I very much like the octopus as it's perfectly cooked, J loves the clams and the fava beans are quite tasty.
For secondi, we order two pastas; Amatriciana Buccatini and Ravioli with artichokes. The waiter brings the pastas to the table and splits each onto 4 plates for us. Both pastas are fine, but the process of splitting them allows them to get cool by the time they reach the table.
For our main courses we have an order of Ossobucco, beef Tournedos w/Madiera and Fois Gras, and and some sort of Veal dish with melted cheese. We also get an order of mixed vegetables which comes to the table fried (suggestion of the waiter). Even though we all know he said "fried" we all envisioned something different. The ossobucco is good, the foie gras on the beef is a tiny quarter sized nugget and the veal is unmemorable. The fried vegetables are good, but we all wanted something a little more "healthy" so they go unfinished.
We did not have dessert (way too much food!) but did have a few glasses of Amaro, this time, the waiter's favorite "Monteverde".
Dinner for four was 181.50 euros.
