For STU DUDLEY- your Tuscany!
 

If STU DUDLEY is reading this-- Thank you for such an informative write up on your favorite areas of: Val d'Orcia running through Montepulciano to San Quirico and including Pienza. You answered me back in post listed at end of this note.

I wanted so much to do what you have done but we have very limited time in Tuscany, so maybe next time, but . . . If you had our days of 17 & 18 August, '08, what places would you see?

We leave Assisi in morning of 17th, hopefully before 9:00, heading NE towards Siena. Can you drive through Perugia? If not(I recall you cannot) then should we skip it? We'd be willing to skip Siena also to get to the area you described. This night we are in Colombaio, located in Siena, 35 km. to San Gimignano, next night of 18th, in Lucca (then Florence and so on north). In addition your areas of suggestion, we want to see the following before arriving in Lucca on the late afternoon of 18 August: Montepulicano, drive up to Monteriggioni (don't know if it is worth to go into the walled city), San Gimignano, Volterra and Pisa, to Lucca.

I do not think we can see all the areas I mentioned in opening paragraph but knowing our route, can you suggest what is best? I see all the areas are just southeast of Montepulicano so some places may be doable and I am excited to know that! I reallly would enjoy seeing some of the areas you beautifully described.

BYT, you write so eloquently, giving me a visual image and imparting excitement to see this area!! As an amateur photographer I got a kick out of the basic knowledge you wrote about, that shooting city scenes late in afternoon with that golden Tuscan sun is indeed the best time. Sun position is important too, you gave that as well! Maybe you enjoy photography as much as I do. Got great shots in Galapagos last summer!

Thank you very much!!!!! -Debbie

PS. I tied to catch your attention by putting your name in title here. I also put above in my original post of: "Europe: Should cut ONE TUSCAN CITY for another? Your opinion counts!" I added above today, 12 March. '08.

Don't head NE from Assisi to get to Siena - it's NW.

I'm a little confused about where you will be & when.

Aug 17 - wake up in Assisi
Aug 18 - sleep in Colombio?? My Tuscany map with a city index is on loan to a friend. I have an older Tuscany map with no index - so I don't know where Colombio is located.

Perugia is a mess to drive through - don't even try. The 17th is a Sunday, and all the shops will be closed in Perugia anyway. Monday morning also.

Montepulciano is about 1 1/4 hr from Assisi. Start the drive there but don't visit Montepulciano (shops closed) - take lots of pictures however.

Stop in Pienza - where the shops will be open. It will be crowded, so park as soon as you see a parking spot. I really would not even visit Siena (shops will be closed Sun & perhaps Mon morning). It has some of the same look & feel as Florence anyway. I would not stop in Montalcino or San Quirico either. Stop at Sant Antimo & try to catch the Gregorian chants. I would stop in the tiny town of Monticchiello (south of Montepulciano & Pienza) because it's such a cute town & won't consume much time.

If Colombaio is close to San Gimignano - you are quite far from Montepulciano to visit it on the way to Lucca - Montepulciano is in the opposite direction - perhaps 1 1/2 hrs away from San G.

I would just spend the 17th doing the Val d'Orcia drive, and the 18th visiting San Gimignano (visit first thing in the am), then Volterra (shops may be closed in the am) before heading to Lucca.

Hope this answers your question

Stu Dudley

I did make a mistake and that surprised me as I am good with directions. Indeed, from Assisi we will head NE, not NW.

Hope to clear up--

Aug 17 - wake up in Assisi/ sleep in Colombaio:

VILLA VERONICA
S.P.102, n.3 - Loc.Colombaio
53019 – SIENA

Check location, http://www.villaveronica.it/doveeng.html, it states, “From North and south: take the hightway Siena-Firenze and exit to Siena North. Follow the signs to Castellina in Chianti (S.S. 222); you will find also the signs to "Villa Veronica".

I cannot find Colombaio or any of the towns listed on that site, on my highly detailed map of Italy. This villa, however, is south of Monteriggioni. The site, Viamichelin.com came up with Colombaio-Via Regioni and pegged it at 5.5 km away from Siena, taking 12 minutes to drive there. I am sure this is the same as Colombaio. I will contact Villa Veronica for more clarification.

Aug. 18- wake up Colombaio/sleep Lucca

Checking all places on map, I now see plan like this: On 17 August leave Assisi in morning, drive to Monticchiello, take pictures at Montelpulicano, stop in Pienza, stop in Sant Antimo, and to Colombaio for evening. Maybe if have time, Siena then to Colombaio, we’ll see.

Stu, my husband and I would love to hear Gregorian chants. They are in the Sant Antimo Abbey, in Sant Antimo? I am not sure by reading your original post where you mention it, when talking about Pienza. Do they chant during a certain part of day or all day?

When we go to Pienza we have to pass S. Quirico d Orcia, where your friends bought their 2nd house? Not worth it to stop in? I’d like to photograph the cypress trees you wrote about. Are they in S. Quirico area? You gave directions from Siena south, we’d be going north. That farmhouse you mention—that is the shot I WANT! Yes, have seen it and am thrilled to know where it is! I know it hung in your office!

What is your suggestion for seeing which area first, second and so on? How does this sound? Assisi to Monticchiello, head north to Montelpulicano, head east on 146 for Pienza and Sant Antimo. Here we turn around and head west, pass or stop S. Quirico d Orcia and from this town, take the road, 2, heading north towards Siena? I have to get the touring map you mentioned to find the names of the roads that have no i.d. on my map, like the one from Monticchiello north to Montelpulicano.

Again, many thanks! --Debbie

>>I cannot find Colombaio or any of the towns listed on that site, <<

I found it on my very detailed "Carta Turistica Stradale" map of Chianti. It's just off the freeway, almost directly east of Monteriggioni, and about 500 meters southwest of Lornano - which is on my larger "Touring Club Italiano" map. Looks like if you follow the signs to Castellina in Chianti off the "nord" freeway exit, you should pass by it. It is not on the N222 however.


>>Checking all places on map, I now see plan like this: On 17 August leave Assisi in morning, drive to Monticchiello, take pictures at Montelpulicano, stop in Pienza, stop in Sant Antimo, and to Colombaio for evening. Maybe if have time, Siena then to Colombaio, we’ll see.>>

That scenic drive will take all day. You won't have any time at all to visit Siena - which is at least a half-day visit. It's also Sunday, and most stuff in Siena will be closed.

I would follow the drive exactly as I outlined it - starting at Montepulciano (don't visit or stop) and then taking the N146 west first from Montepulciano to Pienza. The best views of Montepulciano are from the west side of town looking east - so the sun will be in your face in the morning. Therefore don't take pics of Montepulciano at this time. That's why the itinerary has you seeing Monticchiello later and then returning to Montepulciano for pics and another pass at that little church just 2 K east of San Quirico.

If you leave Assisi at 8:30 you should get to Pienza by 10 - which is a perfect time to be there - before the hoards of day trippers arrive. Puchase some picnic stuff in Pienza. If you leave Assisi at 8 & arrive in Pienza at 9:30 - that's even better.

>>Stu, my husband and I would love to hear Gregorian chants. They are in the Sant Antimo Abbey, in Sant Antimo? I am not sure by reading your original post where you mention it, when talking about Pienza. Do they chant during a certain part of day or all day?<<

I think my original post had a link to the site where they specify the days & hours of the chant at Sant Antimo. Remember, you're doing this on a Sunday, so there will be a mass going on in the morning.

>>When we go to Pienza we have to pass S. Quirico d Orcia, where your friends bought their 2nd house? Not worth it to stop in?<<

Not on a Sunday & with your tight schedule.

<<I’d like to photograph the cypress trees you wrote about. Are they in S. Quirico area?<<

They are all over the place. You won't have difficulty finding them. Best are near La Foce

<<You gave directions from Siena south, we’d be going north. That farmhouse you mention—that is the shot I WANT!<<

That's the one in back of the hotel. The little church is 2 K east of San Quirico

>>What is your suggestion for seeing which area first, second and so on? How does this sound? Assisi to Monticchiello, head north to Montelpulicano, head east on 146 for Pienza and Sant Antimo. Here we turn around and head west, pass or stop S. Quirico d Orcia and from this town, take the road, 2, heading north towards Siena? I have to get the touring map you mentioned to find the names of the roads that have no i.d. on my map, like the one from Monticchiello north to Montelpulicano.<<

Follow the sequence exactly as I specified on my itinerary. I've done this drive many times & refined it so you get to pass the little church twice with different light exposures, get the best sun views of Montepulciano, and get to Pienza before the crowds arrive.

On Sunday & with a tight schedule, the only places you should stop for a visit are Pienza, Sant Antimo, and Monticchiello. If it were not a Sunday or Monday, I would recommend stopping in Montepulciano also - but that would probably consume at least 1 hr - possible longer.

I don't know your entire plans for Italy, but with Florence & Lucca - that's a lot of large Cities. I think this day (the 17th) you should only concentrate on the fantastic countryside scenes in the Val d'Orcia. Don't even think of Perugia or Siena.

Stu Dudley

<<They are all over the place. You won't have difficulty finding them. Best are near La Foce>>

Kindly remind me where La Foce is as it is not on my detailed map. Thank you for finding Colombaio, just east of Monteriggioni, I peg it 1-1.15 hr. away from S. Quirico d'Orcia. Have e-mail into place so will get exact location if closer to Quercegrossa or Pianella.

<<That's the one in back of the hotel. The little church is 2 K east of San Quirico>>

Which hotel and what area is it in?

<<I don't know your entire plans for Italy, but with Florence & Lucca - that's a lot of large Cities. I think this day (the 17th) you should only concentrate on the fantastic countryside scenes in the Val d'Orcia. Don't even think of Perugia or Siena.>>

We will! I just changed my whole day of Aug. 17 with your help. Perugia and Siena good-bye and hello to all in your abovementioned places.

Our trip starts in Venice, few days then Rome, ditto, south to Itri (near Gaeta, my Dad from Itri)to see cousins. From there to Assisi, Tuscany, Lucca one night to Florence for one day/night. Once we leave Florence we drive to see Bologna, maybe have lunch there, then to Rio Saliceto in (RE) to see more cousins for two days. With two remaining days of trip we spend one at Lago di Como, then Milano where next day we fly back to USA on 24 August.

One week before my family is scheduled to leave on 8 Aug., I fly over end of July and pick up my daughter in Lignano Sabbiodoro (outside Venice to east)(she won scholarship to study my second language, Italian, one week in Florence and one outside Vencie). She ends on 2 Aug. and we fly to Paris for 5 days. Then meet my husband and son in Venice to start our family trip.

That's what all this planning is about.

>>Kindly remind me where La Foce is as it is not on my detailed map.<<

You should get the driving Club Italiano map of Tuscany. It's directly south of Montepulciano.


<<That's the one in back of the hotel. The little church is 2 K east of San Quirico>>

>Which hotel and what area is it in?<

Just east of San Quirico - the details are in the driving itinerary I wrote, that you said you have

Stu Dudley

I plan to get the driving maps soon when I can get to book store. My kids keep me going! However, I just searched on internet and saw best price for the Green Guide to was $11.94 + $3.99 S/H (Amazon) but map cover was different from others I saw on internet sites so need to find which is most recent one. I also saw Touring Club Italian map of Tuscany, $11.00. I'd like to check bookstore so I can see most current for each. I hope bookstores have in stock as they look like items that may have to be special ordered.

My aunt came to visit tonight. I told her our about your informative report and she asked for a copy of it as she was not familiar with the Tuscany places you mentioned.

Debbie

Don't miss the visit to Sant Antimo!

I certainly WILL NOT! Stu above gave site of Gregorian monks when they chant and my husband and I would love to see this in Sant'Antimo. We are fitting it into our schedule. Thanks!

Stu Dudley-- My local Barnes & Noble (B&N)here in NY had the Touring Club Italiano Tuscany map and we will bring to Italy. It is a great, detailed map. Thank you for mentioning it. Re: Michelin's, The Green Guide to Tuscany, both B&N and Borders do not have in their system so cannot get it. Both advised to get it on-line. I will only be in Tuscany two days, is it worth it to get this guide? It is double the price of one I just bought. You have it and have been to Tuscany many times and am sure more to come. With my young kids, I do not know when I will get back. What do you use this guide for?

When I get back from vacation I will have time again to read all your posts and plot on Club Italiano map.

I never leave home without a Green Guide. You really don't need it for the Val d'Orcia drive, but you will for Lucca & Florence. If you live in the US, try the public Library & make copies of the sections you want.

I'm sure Amazon has it.

Stu Dudley

Good idea to try my local library. Amazon has a Florence + Tuscany version, look at price for use, French versions copies! Are they this expensive? I saw just Tuscany guide for ~$30.00 on line.

Michelin THE GREEN GUIDE Florence et la Toscane, 2e by Michelin Travel Publications (Paperback - May 1, 1999)
2 Used from $95.24

It's $15 at Amazon

http://www.amazon.com/Michelin-Green...187&sr=1-1

Too lazy to do a tinyurl

Stu Dudley

Wow, great information. This will be helpful for us on our next trip. Thank you.

Thank you Stu! I do not know how you got that as I tried and got Tuscany and Florence. You also found this map with 25 copies being sold! What did you put into search box? I put in, "Michelin Green Guide Tuscany" and it found zip. I bought a new one with slight shelf wear for $11.94 plus $3.99 shipping so feel this is best for me.

bfrac- Stu is a well seasoned Tuscany traveler. Please read his whole report when answering me in
below titled post. I do not know how folks get the post link into here so if someone knows, please inform. Perhaps you can pull it up with my name, it is the second one down as I accidently put this message in that post!


Europe: Should cut ONE TUSCAN CITY for another. Your opinion counts!

Stu-- please tell me how you got the Amazon link in your last thread to me. I tried and just got below, which in Fodors does nothing:


Click here: Amazon.com: Michelin the Green Guide Tuscany (Michelin Green Guides): Melanie Mize Renzulli,Jonathan P. Gilbert: B

Is that the same way some folks put old posts into what they say or maybe a NYT article as I read in a TIPPING post earlier? How do they do that? No, I did not grow up with computers and am not that savy with them but always willing to learn!

When I got the normal page displayed from my initial search (with several books listed), I clicked on the title of the one I wanted. Then a page with just that one book appeared. I copied the URL & put it in the Fodor's post.

Stu Dudley

Sounds easy and will try when I return. Using my daughter's Mac laptop and it is a bit frustrating to use as I am not used to it.

I am back and was blessed with fairly good Florida weather. Now NY is warming up slowly.

Stu, Michelin Guide to Tuscany arrived and in reading it, you are 100% right to "MUST HAVE" on a trip! It is insightful to say the least!

We have two days planned at cousins house outside of Modena and may cut to one to spend more time in Tuscany. Best to spend in Val d'Orcia?

Tried what you said about how you got the map page from Amazon into above and was easy. Now want to learn how to get a whole thread into here. What I mean is, sometimes folks answer a question simply by putting a link into reply that brings reader to a Fodor's thread for answer.

Happy faces, I see the yellow ones all over in threads, but wonder how they appear. Does Fodor's have a selection of them for us to use?

Stu, are you familar with any of these techniques?

Smileys:
http://www.fodors.com/forums/smileys/

To copy a link for a thread, open the thread and after it's open, right click on the title and click copy shortcut. Then go to the thread you want to place it in and paste (ctrl+v).