FOCUS ON FRANCE: Paris and South of France
Nov 4th, 2016, 10:35 AM
#23
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Maitaitom, can't wait to see your pix from Beaune.
And you guys were following along. . .literally, as you say.
TPAYT, glad you found a few ideas from our TR. As you expressed, it's helpful to learn things from the experiences of other Fodorites. Thanks for reading!
Adelaidean and cafegoddess, happy to have you on board.
Adelaidean, every time we travel to Europe I think of you and other Aussies we've met who have to endure so many more hours in the sky. It makes our flights seem reasonable.
And you guys were following along. . .literally, as you say.
TPAYT, glad you found a few ideas from our TR. As you expressed, it's helpful to learn things from the experiences of other Fodorites. Thanks for reading!
Adelaidean and cafegoddess, happy to have you on board.
Adelaidean, every time we travel to Europe I think of you and other Aussies we've met who have to endure so many more hours in the sky. It makes our flights seem reasonable.
Nov 6th, 2016, 06:24 AM
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Hi Denise, we also gained a new respect for Pinot Noirs which we've enjoyed since our return,
You're, no doubt, getting more excited as your holiday visit to Paris approaches. Wonderful time to be there. . .although there's really no bad time for Paris. Right?
You're, no doubt, getting more excited as your holiday visit to Paris approaches. Wonderful time to be there. . .although there's really no bad time for Paris. Right?
Nov 6th, 2016, 07:55 AM
#27
"Hi Denise, we also gained a new respect for Pinot Noirs which we've enjoyed since our return,..."
This should be an interesting Trip Report week for the both of us re: pino, eh
Looking forward to Chamonix.
This should be an interesting Trip Report week for the both of us re: pino, eh
Looking forward to Chamonix.
Nov 6th, 2016, 08:16 AM
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Maitaitom, working on Chamonix. Hope to post soon. Also, really looking forward to your next chapter!
Judy, nice to hear from you! We'll add that rose cremente to our list when we stock up for the holidays. Thanks for the suggestion.
Judy, nice to hear from you! We'll add that rose cremente to our list when we stock up for the holidays. Thanks for the suggestion.
Nov 7th, 2016, 07:29 AM
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THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 1, 2016
Off to CHAMONIX!
First day of school for kids in France. For us, it’s an exciting day as we’re heading into the Rhone- Alps with our destination of Chamonix-Mt. Blanc.
The weather looked to be perfect from the start: sun, blue skies, and mild temperatures. Today we would transition from history, architecture, art and learning about wine to dramatic natural beauty and enjoyment of wine.
En route from Dijon, the terrain changed from green vineyards on terraced hillsides and beautiful chateaus to gradually ascending mountains in the background.
As we exited for a lunch stop, we came upon a large metal sculpture of a chicken as a centerpiece in a welcoming roundabout. We were in Bresse, in the center of the French countryside, where the chickens are raised under stringent government regulations and awarded the appellation of “d’origine controllee” status. We enjoyed a light lunch at L’Aire du Poulet de Bresse. But, enough about chickens!
We were eager to drive on and enjoy the mountain scenery which steadily grew more outstanding. We crossed the Jura Mountains, and passed fairly near to Lake Geneva, the fifty mile long lake which is shared by France and Switzerland, 1/3 being on the French side and 2/3 within Switzerland.
Laurent explained that many of the French travel to Switzerland to work for higher pay, and the Swiss travel to France to shop, where prices are considerably less. He discussed the importance of trade within the European Union.
As we drove on, we learned other information about this area, including the languages spoken: French, German, and Italian. The Olympic Committee headquarters is in Lausanne, a French-speaking part of Switzerland, and not far from Geneva.
Suddenly, Mt. Blanc, with its 15,771 ft. peak, majestically appeared in the distance. We stopped for a while at a perfect point to take in the impressive view. We were still a few miles from the village of Chamonix.
Two years ago, we spent a couple of weeks in the Alps of Austria and Switzerland, and a few years back were in Aosta, Italy. It’s no surprise to anyone who knows us that we love the mountains, so that chance to once more experience just a taste of the Alps was a highlight for us.
As we continued on, we traveled over a long, high elevation road which crossed over the valley below.
Arriving in Chamonix about 3 PM, we checked in to Le Prieure Hotel, thrilled that our room had a great view of Mt. Blanc. The hotel was a ski lodge, complete with racks for hanging skis, reminders of our many ski trips. But never to the Alps!
After enjoying the view from our room deck, we went downstairs to pick up a glass of rose’ from the hotel bar. The lodge patio was a perfect place to relax while taking in the magnificent scenery of Mt. Blanc and the adjacent glacier. Mt. Blanc belongs to three nations: France, Switzerland, and Italy. However, France owns the tip.
We made an evening trek to the little downtown area of Chamonix, not far from our hotel. We wandered around the quaint typical ski village, with Mt. Blanc and the Glacier ever present. Quite a scenic setting in the town being surrounded by mountains, with the River Arve rushing through its center.
The main street, lined with shops selling sports’ equipment and clothing, provided the opportunity to buy a souvenir t-shirt for Tom and a peak hat for Margie.
One main attraction of Chamonix is the Aiguille de Midi gondola which rises to an altitude of 12,000 + ft., then has an outside walkway offering a tremendous view, leading to an ascenceur or elevator carrying visitors up even higher, to get a close-up view of Mt. Blanc. From there, individual cable cars carrying 2-4 passengers per car travel across a several mile sea of ice to Helbronner in Italy.
In planning for our trip, we brought wool scarves, gloves, and clothes for layering as we expected freezing temperature at the top. However, upon arriving, Laurent cautioned that it was extremely windy, especially at the summit. And noting the shortness of time to enjoy the experience, even foregoing the Helbronner segment, we resigned ourselves to taking in the beautiful views from the village center.
If there is one place on our trip itinerary that we would re-visit, Chamonix will be tops on our list. Considering unpredictable weather in the mountains, we would stay for several days increasing our chances for favorable conditions, similar to what we did in the Berner Oberland.
The hotel concierge had booked a 7:30 reservation for us and three acquaintances at the Panier des 4 Saisons in downtown Chamonix. We had read about this restaurant, located on a small alley off the downtown walking street. It was described as a wonderful French restaurant with good food and reasonable prices.
We had arranged to meet Elizabeth, Edith, and Ady, two sisters and brother who were traveling together. We were seated at a nice corner oval both. Great food! Our friends had sea bass, and scallops; Tom and I had the steak meal with their delicious sauce, complimented by a pinot noir. All agreed that the meals were excellent. Great conversation. Lots of laughs. It was a fun time as all three of our new acquaintances are smart, witty, and have traveled a great deal.
We returned to our hotel about 10 PM. But there was still time to enjoy the night sky and the moon illuminating Mt. Blanc before turning in for the night.
FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 2, 2016
Alps Excursion en route to ANNECY
We awoke very early, eager to experience what we hoped would be another beautiful day! From our room, we watched the rising sun as it cast beautiful light on Mt. Blanc and the glacier.
We haven’t mentioned “Tex” our masterful driver, who lives near Chamonix, and is highly familiar with the surrounding mountain roads. After enjoying a breakfast, never tiring of taking in the mountain scenery, we were eager to take the back mountain roads over the passes on the way to Annecy. We had full confidence in Tex!
Wow! Our coach on narrow roads and sometimes meeting oncoming large trucks, needing to negotiate the limited road width. But Tex handled it like the pro that he is, as he has done the entire trip. The scenery was amazing! Tom and I enjoyed the twisty, “S” hairpin turns of the mountains, and were so happy to have this opportunity to travel back roads.
We passed through small towns like Megeve, a charming resort which is said to appeal to a more upscale clientele. We learned that, in addition to winter sports, it is popular as a summer resort because of its lovely accommodations, restaurants, and shops which provide a great base for hiking, biking, and other sporting opportunities. To us, it looked like an ideal place to stay for a few days.
Continuing our spectacular drive, signs for most of the way were pointing in the direction of Albertville. We encountered reminders of former Olympics and their dates from this area: of course, Chamonix, 1924 the first winter Olympics, which apparently greatly increased tourism to the area; Grenoble, 1968. Albertville, 1992. We noted the path of the “Tour de France” which was largely in the direction we traveled.
The mountain pass, Col des Aravis, was especially enjoyable. A lovely café with an outdoor deck, a small chapel currently serving as a mountain parish, and a gift shop. . .all surrounded by amazing mountains. A great location for our café’au lait/restroom stop on the way to Annecy. The cows on the mountainside entertained with a parade and serenade of bells, passing us as they made their way to the feeding trough. Perfect weather certainly enhanced the experience!
Continuing our drive through unbelievable scenery, the sight of Lake Annecy, surrounded by green mountains and wealthy estates, soon came into view. We arrived in the town of Annecy about noon. This lovely town, nestled beside the beautiful mountain lake, is called by some the “Venice of the Alps” because a network of canals runs through its old city center.
The lakefront, whose shores were dotted with flowers, saw its share of people picnicking, bike riding, boating, or just walking. The area of town nearest the lake seemed to be fairly busy with tourists, so we moved on to a section where there seemed to be more locals.
The streets of Annecy’s town center are lined with shops and restaurants. We spent about three hours strolling around Lake Annecy and the old city area. Our relaxed lunch at Café Creperie du Puits Saint Jean included an excellent meal of beef on top of roesti (special Swiss grated potatoes smothered with butter) with rose’ wine. Rose’ at lunch was a habit we had acquired in Burgundy.
After a while exploring the many little shops, we walked farther down Rue du Paquier for a dessert at the Brasserie L’Abbaye. While Margie paid the bill, Tom walked a few blocks to the Zoom Camera Store to buy a new battery for the price of “only” 65 EUR !!!
Having experienced the difficulty of finding “toilettes” in France, with many restaurants having only one for a considerably large seating area, we walked a few blocks to the tourist info building. It was a large newish structure, and there we found ample, clean restrooms.
From there, we walked along a different section of the lake, realizing that the pathway was longer than it first appeared.
After that nice respite at Annecy, the ride to Grenoble was
less remarkable as we departed from the back roads and were on the main highway for the next two hours. But the scenery was still mountainous.
Grenoble has a beautiful location surrounded by mountains, and the bridge entering the city is striking. We arrived just in time to experience work traffic, but again, Tex negotiated so well and we were happy to arrive within a short time at the Mercure Hotel. After a long day of travel amid mountain beauty, we were relieved to have a meal in the hotel restaurant.
The evening meal consisted of a delicious ravioli entre’, a pork with potato/veggie accompaniment for the plat (entre’); pinot noir; and a dessert of a tasty pear custard. At our table were some of our favorite people: Rob and Yvonne, Edith, Elizabeth, and Ady. Discussions focused on travel experiences, with Yvonne and Rob’s barge trip down the Canal Midi in Bordeaux…30 miles covered in a week. . .being of special interest.
After a long day beginning in Chamonix, with a nice stop in Annecy, the overnight in Grenoble served as a welcome pause on our travel to Nice.
Tomorrow: the FRENCH RIVIERA!
Off to CHAMONIX!
First day of school for kids in France. For us, it’s an exciting day as we’re heading into the Rhone- Alps with our destination of Chamonix-Mt. Blanc.
The weather looked to be perfect from the start: sun, blue skies, and mild temperatures. Today we would transition from history, architecture, art and learning about wine to dramatic natural beauty and enjoyment of wine.
En route from Dijon, the terrain changed from green vineyards on terraced hillsides and beautiful chateaus to gradually ascending mountains in the background.
As we exited for a lunch stop, we came upon a large metal sculpture of a chicken as a centerpiece in a welcoming roundabout. We were in Bresse, in the center of the French countryside, where the chickens are raised under stringent government regulations and awarded the appellation of “d’origine controllee” status. We enjoyed a light lunch at L’Aire du Poulet de Bresse. But, enough about chickens!
We were eager to drive on and enjoy the mountain scenery which steadily grew more outstanding. We crossed the Jura Mountains, and passed fairly near to Lake Geneva, the fifty mile long lake which is shared by France and Switzerland, 1/3 being on the French side and 2/3 within Switzerland.
Laurent explained that many of the French travel to Switzerland to work for higher pay, and the Swiss travel to France to shop, where prices are considerably less. He discussed the importance of trade within the European Union.
As we drove on, we learned other information about this area, including the languages spoken: French, German, and Italian. The Olympic Committee headquarters is in Lausanne, a French-speaking part of Switzerland, and not far from Geneva.
Suddenly, Mt. Blanc, with its 15,771 ft. peak, majestically appeared in the distance. We stopped for a while at a perfect point to take in the impressive view. We were still a few miles from the village of Chamonix.
Two years ago, we spent a couple of weeks in the Alps of Austria and Switzerland, and a few years back were in Aosta, Italy. It’s no surprise to anyone who knows us that we love the mountains, so that chance to once more experience just a taste of the Alps was a highlight for us.
As we continued on, we traveled over a long, high elevation road which crossed over the valley below.
Arriving in Chamonix about 3 PM, we checked in to Le Prieure Hotel, thrilled that our room had a great view of Mt. Blanc. The hotel was a ski lodge, complete with racks for hanging skis, reminders of our many ski trips. But never to the Alps!
After enjoying the view from our room deck, we went downstairs to pick up a glass of rose’ from the hotel bar. The lodge patio was a perfect place to relax while taking in the magnificent scenery of Mt. Blanc and the adjacent glacier. Mt. Blanc belongs to three nations: France, Switzerland, and Italy. However, France owns the tip.
We made an evening trek to the little downtown area of Chamonix, not far from our hotel. We wandered around the quaint typical ski village, with Mt. Blanc and the Glacier ever present. Quite a scenic setting in the town being surrounded by mountains, with the River Arve rushing through its center.
The main street, lined with shops selling sports’ equipment and clothing, provided the opportunity to buy a souvenir t-shirt for Tom and a peak hat for Margie.
One main attraction of Chamonix is the Aiguille de Midi gondola which rises to an altitude of 12,000 + ft., then has an outside walkway offering a tremendous view, leading to an ascenceur or elevator carrying visitors up even higher, to get a close-up view of Mt. Blanc. From there, individual cable cars carrying 2-4 passengers per car travel across a several mile sea of ice to Helbronner in Italy.
In planning for our trip, we brought wool scarves, gloves, and clothes for layering as we expected freezing temperature at the top. However, upon arriving, Laurent cautioned that it was extremely windy, especially at the summit. And noting the shortness of time to enjoy the experience, even foregoing the Helbronner segment, we resigned ourselves to taking in the beautiful views from the village center.
If there is one place on our trip itinerary that we would re-visit, Chamonix will be tops on our list. Considering unpredictable weather in the mountains, we would stay for several days increasing our chances for favorable conditions, similar to what we did in the Berner Oberland.
The hotel concierge had booked a 7:30 reservation for us and three acquaintances at the Panier des 4 Saisons in downtown Chamonix. We had read about this restaurant, located on a small alley off the downtown walking street. It was described as a wonderful French restaurant with good food and reasonable prices.
We had arranged to meet Elizabeth, Edith, and Ady, two sisters and brother who were traveling together. We were seated at a nice corner oval both. Great food! Our friends had sea bass, and scallops; Tom and I had the steak meal with their delicious sauce, complimented by a pinot noir. All agreed that the meals were excellent. Great conversation. Lots of laughs. It was a fun time as all three of our new acquaintances are smart, witty, and have traveled a great deal.
We returned to our hotel about 10 PM. But there was still time to enjoy the night sky and the moon illuminating Mt. Blanc before turning in for the night.
FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 2, 2016
Alps Excursion en route to ANNECY
We awoke very early, eager to experience what we hoped would be another beautiful day! From our room, we watched the rising sun as it cast beautiful light on Mt. Blanc and the glacier.
We haven’t mentioned “Tex” our masterful driver, who lives near Chamonix, and is highly familiar with the surrounding mountain roads. After enjoying a breakfast, never tiring of taking in the mountain scenery, we were eager to take the back mountain roads over the passes on the way to Annecy. We had full confidence in Tex!
Wow! Our coach on narrow roads and sometimes meeting oncoming large trucks, needing to negotiate the limited road width. But Tex handled it like the pro that he is, as he has done the entire trip. The scenery was amazing! Tom and I enjoyed the twisty, “S” hairpin turns of the mountains, and were so happy to have this opportunity to travel back roads.
We passed through small towns like Megeve, a charming resort which is said to appeal to a more upscale clientele. We learned that, in addition to winter sports, it is popular as a summer resort because of its lovely accommodations, restaurants, and shops which provide a great base for hiking, biking, and other sporting opportunities. To us, it looked like an ideal place to stay for a few days.
Continuing our spectacular drive, signs for most of the way were pointing in the direction of Albertville. We encountered reminders of former Olympics and their dates from this area: of course, Chamonix, 1924 the first winter Olympics, which apparently greatly increased tourism to the area; Grenoble, 1968. Albertville, 1992. We noted the path of the “Tour de France” which was largely in the direction we traveled.
The mountain pass, Col des Aravis, was especially enjoyable. A lovely café with an outdoor deck, a small chapel currently serving as a mountain parish, and a gift shop. . .all surrounded by amazing mountains. A great location for our café’au lait/restroom stop on the way to Annecy. The cows on the mountainside entertained with a parade and serenade of bells, passing us as they made their way to the feeding trough. Perfect weather certainly enhanced the experience!
Continuing our drive through unbelievable scenery, the sight of Lake Annecy, surrounded by green mountains and wealthy estates, soon came into view. We arrived in the town of Annecy about noon. This lovely town, nestled beside the beautiful mountain lake, is called by some the “Venice of the Alps” because a network of canals runs through its old city center.
The lakefront, whose shores were dotted with flowers, saw its share of people picnicking, bike riding, boating, or just walking. The area of town nearest the lake seemed to be fairly busy with tourists, so we moved on to a section where there seemed to be more locals.
The streets of Annecy’s town center are lined with shops and restaurants. We spent about three hours strolling around Lake Annecy and the old city area. Our relaxed lunch at Café Creperie du Puits Saint Jean included an excellent meal of beef on top of roesti (special Swiss grated potatoes smothered with butter) with rose’ wine. Rose’ at lunch was a habit we had acquired in Burgundy.
After a while exploring the many little shops, we walked farther down Rue du Paquier for a dessert at the Brasserie L’Abbaye. While Margie paid the bill, Tom walked a few blocks to the Zoom Camera Store to buy a new battery for the price of “only” 65 EUR !!!
Having experienced the difficulty of finding “toilettes” in France, with many restaurants having only one for a considerably large seating area, we walked a few blocks to the tourist info building. It was a large newish structure, and there we found ample, clean restrooms.
From there, we walked along a different section of the lake, realizing that the pathway was longer than it first appeared.
After that nice respite at Annecy, the ride to Grenoble was
less remarkable as we departed from the back roads and were on the main highway for the next two hours. But the scenery was still mountainous.
Grenoble has a beautiful location surrounded by mountains, and the bridge entering the city is striking. We arrived just in time to experience work traffic, but again, Tex negotiated so well and we were happy to arrive within a short time at the Mercure Hotel. After a long day of travel amid mountain beauty, we were relieved to have a meal in the hotel restaurant.
The evening meal consisted of a delicious ravioli entre’, a pork with potato/veggie accompaniment for the plat (entre’); pinot noir; and a dessert of a tasty pear custard. At our table were some of our favorite people: Rob and Yvonne, Edith, Elizabeth, and Ady. Discussions focused on travel experiences, with Yvonne and Rob’s barge trip down the Canal Midi in Bordeaux…30 miles covered in a week. . .being of special interest.
After a long day beginning in Chamonix, with a nice stop in Annecy, the overnight in Grenoble served as a welcome pause on our travel to Nice.
Tomorrow: the FRENCH RIVIERA!
Nov 8th, 2016, 08:28 AM
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Yes, both Chamonix and Annecy are beautiful, and we're sure they'll be in your future plans sometime.
There are just so many places to enjoy! Not enough time to cover. We felt that way several months ago when we looked at the number of towns in Provence. Overwhelming. Choices, choices. A good problem to have, though. Agree?
There are just so many places to enjoy! Not enough time to cover. We felt that way several months ago when we looked at the number of towns in Provence. Overwhelming. Choices, choices. A good problem to have, though. Agree?
Nov 9th, 2016, 07:02 AM
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Melnq8, glad to have you along for our ride. Yes. . .I think you'd like Burgundy, esp.
BTW, the couple we became friends with, Yvonne and Rob, are from Perth. Thought of you at times when we talked with them.
Kansas, thanks for your kind words!
BTW, the couple we became friends with, Yvonne and Rob, are from Perth. Thought of you at times when we talked with them.
Kansas, thanks for your kind words!
Nov 11th, 2016, 08:33 AM
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SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 3, 2016
Destination: Nice and the Cote d’Azur
Today is another destination which we’re eager to re-visit after a number of years: the Cote d’Azur. With the orderly seat rotation on the coach, we were in luck to have the front seat, with its additional view out the huge front window, for the mountainous route to Nice. A real treat as the trip is a lengthy one! Nice is named after Nike, the god of victory. It’s a victory for us!
It’s Saturday and that means less traffic. Again, a beautiful day weather-wise. We took a highway for only a short distance, but most all the way was via smaller roads.
Our lunch stop was in a Carrefour, in Digne-les-Bains, a city whose claim to fame was that Napoleon had stopped here for a luncheon, albeit previous to any Carrefour. This huge complex is similar to a Walmart in the US; however, it was much nicer than the few Walmart’s we’ve experienced. We purchased a lunch in their cafe, a French birthday card for our niece, and two inexpensive tops for Margie, and had time left over to explore a bit.
Following lunch, we continued on with beautiful mountainous scenery, following the Route of Napoleon. En route, we learned so much history from Laurent about France; facts that we recorded in our notebooks.
The area we were traveling is part of the Alps-Maritimes, and the terrain is mountainous right down to the sea. Our destination, Nice, is a major tourist center, and its famous Promenade des Anglais was so named because of its popularity as a winter resort for the English since the eighteenth century.
As the Mediterrean came into view, we thought the title Cote d’Azur was perfect, as the water was a beautiful azure blue. Our hotel in Nice was the Radisson Blu, located on the Promenade des Anglais.
Although the Radisson Blu was described as waterfront, which was true, none of our rooms faced the water, somewhat of a disappointment. But the two pluses were the lovely breakfast terrace, and the rooftop bar and restaurant, all facing the Mediterranean.
Contrary to what we had imagined, our hotel was quite a distance down the Promenade des Anglais from Old Town. . .a taxi or bus ride for sure. From a former weeklong visit to Nice, we hadn’t remembered the Promenade being that long!
Before our evening venture into Old Town, we had time for a drink in the 8th floor rooftop bar, where the pool and a restaurant were also located. We chatted with Rob and Yvonne as we took in the gorgeous sea view. We learned that Yvonne is on the three-month leave that Australia gives to all employees after a ten-year service period with the same company or institution.
After that refreshing respite, we were off via the coach for the Old Town. En route on the Promenade des Anglais, we paused as we passed the temporary memorial to the people killed in the attack on French Independence Day, July 14, 2016, not even one month ago. We learned that just today another victim had died, bringing the total to 86. Very sobering!!!
Just inland from the Promenade is the main square in Nice, the Place de Massena, bordered by belle époque buildings. The square is popular for concerts, parades, and Bastille Day processions. But we were off to eat and enjoy.
Dinner was at Le Safari with Rob and Yvonne; wood-fired pizza and way too much salad plus wine. All was excellent. Our attentive waiter was a fun guy from Croatia, who spoke excellent English. He offered to snap a couple of photos with both of our cameras.
In addition to restaurants, the area was brimming with tents selling everything from tablecloths to jewelry to French foods. Old Town Nice was alive and it felt like a party atmosphere.
In one shop, we had a great discussion with the Dominican Republic clerk who wanted us to be sure he was not African, after Tom asked him if he was from Morocco. He knew baseball and was familiar with Dominican players, and lamented that France didn’t know the sport. This young guy said that his father was French, married a Haitian, and moved to France when he was eleven. He thought Europe (Germany who needs labor) ought to recruit Hispanics who are hard workers and have a great attitude.
After a nice time exploring Old Town, including the Opera House and the Cathedral, we were ready to return to our hotel. Again, we had enjoyed a long, full day of fabulous scenery, followed by evening drinks overlooking the sea, and the delightful meal in Old Town.
Tomorrow: Exploring the Cote d’Azur
SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 4, 2016
What to do today? Stay in Nice and enjoy the waterfront and town? Visits to the Chagall and Matisse Museums? Travel along the corniche to enjoy sweeping views of the coast and re-visit Monaco and Eze? The coastal venture won out, with the hope that we would have time to visit the museums upon our afternoon return.
On a previous trip to Nice, we caught trains and buses to visit other locations south on the Mediterranean Coast, even enjoying St. Tropez. We remember, also, traveling the Moyenne Corniche up to Monaco. . . fabulous coastline. Since the coach was traveling in that direction, we decided to hop on and make the day a Moyenne Cornice adventure to Monaco and Eze, the beautiful stone village hugging the sea from 1400 ft.
Traveling the Promenade des Anglais, as we were leaving Nice proper, we passed a statue dedicated to Miles Davis, a war memorial, as well as the new memorial crowded with flowers to honor the victims murdered on July 14th of this year. Again, extremely sad!
Laurent lives in the hills around Nice, and he was able to point out the features of each little town; the poshness of Beaulieu-sur-Mer; and the winter get-away of the rich and famous on the small peninsula of Saint Jean-Cap-Ferrat. He knew the homes of celebrities along the Cote d’Azur. Names like Elton John, Tina Turner, Bill Gates, Tim Allen of Microsoft fame, Angelina Jolie & Brad Pitt….a home where Liz Taylor once lived, etc.
Some people wanted to stop at the Fragonard Perfume Factory, with its hillside location on the coast. We could have chosen to walk the grounds and take in the coastal view, but needing to bring home a few souvenirs, and replenish Margie’s supply from several years back, we thought the brief visit was worth it.
The weather today was mostly sunny, with a few clouds, but extremely hot. The drive along the coast was stunning, and we made numerous stops en route to Monaco to inhale the beauty.
Arriving in the principality of Monaco, a famous resort popular with tourists and wealthy foreigners, and known to be a tax haven for businesses, we were again impressed with the significance of this second smallest country in the world, with only the Vatican being smaller.
Set in the heart of the old town is the Monaco Cathedral, built in 1875, on the site of a 13th century church. The cathedral houses a Great Altar and a celebrant’s throne in white marble from Carrara, Italy, plus an altarpiece painted by Louis Brea of Nice, and a magnificent organ. The cathedral gained worldwide attention with the wedding of Grace Kelly and Prince Rainier. They are now buried in prominent places in the side aisle of the cathedral.
We toured the Palace area and watched the changing of the guard at noon. Passing the living quarters of Stephanie, Caroline, and Prince Albert’s palace of business, which they compare to the White House or 10 Downing Street, we learned more of the history of the Grimaldi family which traces back to 1297.
At a shop off the Palace courtyard, Tom spotted a collared shirt with a Monaco, Grand Prix logo and purchased two, one being for our brother who is an avid race car fan. Lunch was at La Pampa Monaco Ville, facing the Palace courtyard. The shared hamburger was as tasty as the large beer was thirst-quenching.
The scenery overlooking the harbor in Monaco, with the many gorgeous yachts, is outstanding, and hopefully captured in our photos.
From Monaco, we proceeded south on the Middle Corniche to Eze, one of several charming hilltop villages built in the 13th century. Eze was one of the main “Villages Perche”, as they were called. The name originated because of the way they appeared to be perched on the cliffs, or glued to the sides of the mountain, making them very difficult to reach.
From the parking area of Eze, to the arched stone doorway entrance to the village and its winding cobbled streets, is a climb. Thereafter, an intricately-designed cobblestone pathway leads to the narrow alleys of Eze, which are lined with restored stone houses, very small shops, refreshing ancient fountains, as well as a couple of restaurants.
From the village streets, to reach the top of the Jardin d’Eze or Mediterranean Garden, requires a climb of a couple hundred+ rock steps, many uneven. This stairway spirals up through the garden containing cacti and succulent plants originating from the Americas, Africa, and other tropical areas.
At the top of the garden, the tremendous reward is a view from a stone terrace, 1410 ft. above sea level, overlooking the roofs of the village, and the sweeping panorama of the coast. Outstanding!
Eze is the highest village in Provence, and truly impressive. However, by this time of the afternoon, the temperature had risen substantially, and we had begun the climb to the top with no water. Not a good idea! Though beautiful, it was tiring and hot! A few clouds had moved in, increasing as the day wore on.
As we descended the rock steps to the village proper, we enjoyed walking through the small alleys and looking at the wares of the shops. A couple of lavender sachets caught our attention as being light weight mementos for friends.
Thirst was getting the better of us, so we made our way to the parking level to purchase some refreshing drinks. By this time we had learned that to have the privilege of a restroom, one must find a place to purchase a drink. No public restrooms.
We returned to the Radisson Blu in Nice by about 4 PM, via the magnificent Middle Corniche. Our intentions to visit the museums of Chagall and Matisse had now vanished for two reasons: we were tired from the day and by the time we would reach the museums, they would be close to closing.
The 8th floor rooftop bar overlooking the sea couldn’t be resisted! Ah! Sipping wine while enjoying the dynamite view of the Mediterranean. Nothing better. Rob and Yvonne joined us, and we made a reservation for a 7:15 dinner together at the upstairs restaurant. We agreed that the view far surpassed anything we could get in the Old Town.
Before dinner, we each enjoyed some free time on our own walking along the coast and taking in the blue Mediterranean, recalling from a previous visit the pebbly beach.
A friendly couple with a bichon friese puppy offered to share their bench. Tom reached across Margie, who was sitting next to the couple, to pet the little dog, and it crawled across Margie’s lap and settled in Tom’s. He had made a new friend. The owners had to coax their little dog away.
Our rooftop restaurant meal of a delicious penne pasta with salad and a shared bottle of a nice vin rouge with Yonne and Rob was a perfect ending to the day. Great discussion about Australian education, politics, travels, and families! A fun night lasting until 10 PM.
Tomorrow: Inland PROVENCE towns
Destination: Nice and the Cote d’Azur
Today is another destination which we’re eager to re-visit after a number of years: the Cote d’Azur. With the orderly seat rotation on the coach, we were in luck to have the front seat, with its additional view out the huge front window, for the mountainous route to Nice. A real treat as the trip is a lengthy one! Nice is named after Nike, the god of victory. It’s a victory for us!
It’s Saturday and that means less traffic. Again, a beautiful day weather-wise. We took a highway for only a short distance, but most all the way was via smaller roads.
Our lunch stop was in a Carrefour, in Digne-les-Bains, a city whose claim to fame was that Napoleon had stopped here for a luncheon, albeit previous to any Carrefour. This huge complex is similar to a Walmart in the US; however, it was much nicer than the few Walmart’s we’ve experienced. We purchased a lunch in their cafe, a French birthday card for our niece, and two inexpensive tops for Margie, and had time left over to explore a bit.
Following lunch, we continued on with beautiful mountainous scenery, following the Route of Napoleon. En route, we learned so much history from Laurent about France; facts that we recorded in our notebooks.
The area we were traveling is part of the Alps-Maritimes, and the terrain is mountainous right down to the sea. Our destination, Nice, is a major tourist center, and its famous Promenade des Anglais was so named because of its popularity as a winter resort for the English since the eighteenth century.
As the Mediterrean came into view, we thought the title Cote d’Azur was perfect, as the water was a beautiful azure blue. Our hotel in Nice was the Radisson Blu, located on the Promenade des Anglais.
Although the Radisson Blu was described as waterfront, which was true, none of our rooms faced the water, somewhat of a disappointment. But the two pluses were the lovely breakfast terrace, and the rooftop bar and restaurant, all facing the Mediterranean.
Contrary to what we had imagined, our hotel was quite a distance down the Promenade des Anglais from Old Town. . .a taxi or bus ride for sure. From a former weeklong visit to Nice, we hadn’t remembered the Promenade being that long!
Before our evening venture into Old Town, we had time for a drink in the 8th floor rooftop bar, where the pool and a restaurant were also located. We chatted with Rob and Yvonne as we took in the gorgeous sea view. We learned that Yvonne is on the three-month leave that Australia gives to all employees after a ten-year service period with the same company or institution.
After that refreshing respite, we were off via the coach for the Old Town. En route on the Promenade des Anglais, we paused as we passed the temporary memorial to the people killed in the attack on French Independence Day, July 14, 2016, not even one month ago. We learned that just today another victim had died, bringing the total to 86. Very sobering!!!
Just inland from the Promenade is the main square in Nice, the Place de Massena, bordered by belle époque buildings. The square is popular for concerts, parades, and Bastille Day processions. But we were off to eat and enjoy.
Dinner was at Le Safari with Rob and Yvonne; wood-fired pizza and way too much salad plus wine. All was excellent. Our attentive waiter was a fun guy from Croatia, who spoke excellent English. He offered to snap a couple of photos with both of our cameras.
In addition to restaurants, the area was brimming with tents selling everything from tablecloths to jewelry to French foods. Old Town Nice was alive and it felt like a party atmosphere.
In one shop, we had a great discussion with the Dominican Republic clerk who wanted us to be sure he was not African, after Tom asked him if he was from Morocco. He knew baseball and was familiar with Dominican players, and lamented that France didn’t know the sport. This young guy said that his father was French, married a Haitian, and moved to France when he was eleven. He thought Europe (Germany who needs labor) ought to recruit Hispanics who are hard workers and have a great attitude.
After a nice time exploring Old Town, including the Opera House and the Cathedral, we were ready to return to our hotel. Again, we had enjoyed a long, full day of fabulous scenery, followed by evening drinks overlooking the sea, and the delightful meal in Old Town.
Tomorrow: Exploring the Cote d’Azur
SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 4, 2016
What to do today? Stay in Nice and enjoy the waterfront and town? Visits to the Chagall and Matisse Museums? Travel along the corniche to enjoy sweeping views of the coast and re-visit Monaco and Eze? The coastal venture won out, with the hope that we would have time to visit the museums upon our afternoon return.
On a previous trip to Nice, we caught trains and buses to visit other locations south on the Mediterranean Coast, even enjoying St. Tropez. We remember, also, traveling the Moyenne Corniche up to Monaco. . . fabulous coastline. Since the coach was traveling in that direction, we decided to hop on and make the day a Moyenne Cornice adventure to Monaco and Eze, the beautiful stone village hugging the sea from 1400 ft.
Traveling the Promenade des Anglais, as we were leaving Nice proper, we passed a statue dedicated to Miles Davis, a war memorial, as well as the new memorial crowded with flowers to honor the victims murdered on July 14th of this year. Again, extremely sad!
Laurent lives in the hills around Nice, and he was able to point out the features of each little town; the poshness of Beaulieu-sur-Mer; and the winter get-away of the rich and famous on the small peninsula of Saint Jean-Cap-Ferrat. He knew the homes of celebrities along the Cote d’Azur. Names like Elton John, Tina Turner, Bill Gates, Tim Allen of Microsoft fame, Angelina Jolie & Brad Pitt….a home where Liz Taylor once lived, etc.
Some people wanted to stop at the Fragonard Perfume Factory, with its hillside location on the coast. We could have chosen to walk the grounds and take in the coastal view, but needing to bring home a few souvenirs, and replenish Margie’s supply from several years back, we thought the brief visit was worth it.
The weather today was mostly sunny, with a few clouds, but extremely hot. The drive along the coast was stunning, and we made numerous stops en route to Monaco to inhale the beauty.
Arriving in the principality of Monaco, a famous resort popular with tourists and wealthy foreigners, and known to be a tax haven for businesses, we were again impressed with the significance of this second smallest country in the world, with only the Vatican being smaller.
Set in the heart of the old town is the Monaco Cathedral, built in 1875, on the site of a 13th century church. The cathedral houses a Great Altar and a celebrant’s throne in white marble from Carrara, Italy, plus an altarpiece painted by Louis Brea of Nice, and a magnificent organ. The cathedral gained worldwide attention with the wedding of Grace Kelly and Prince Rainier. They are now buried in prominent places in the side aisle of the cathedral.
We toured the Palace area and watched the changing of the guard at noon. Passing the living quarters of Stephanie, Caroline, and Prince Albert’s palace of business, which they compare to the White House or 10 Downing Street, we learned more of the history of the Grimaldi family which traces back to 1297.
At a shop off the Palace courtyard, Tom spotted a collared shirt with a Monaco, Grand Prix logo and purchased two, one being for our brother who is an avid race car fan. Lunch was at La Pampa Monaco Ville, facing the Palace courtyard. The shared hamburger was as tasty as the large beer was thirst-quenching.
The scenery overlooking the harbor in Monaco, with the many gorgeous yachts, is outstanding, and hopefully captured in our photos.
From Monaco, we proceeded south on the Middle Corniche to Eze, one of several charming hilltop villages built in the 13th century. Eze was one of the main “Villages Perche”, as they were called. The name originated because of the way they appeared to be perched on the cliffs, or glued to the sides of the mountain, making them very difficult to reach.
From the parking area of Eze, to the arched stone doorway entrance to the village and its winding cobbled streets, is a climb. Thereafter, an intricately-designed cobblestone pathway leads to the narrow alleys of Eze, which are lined with restored stone houses, very small shops, refreshing ancient fountains, as well as a couple of restaurants.
From the village streets, to reach the top of the Jardin d’Eze or Mediterranean Garden, requires a climb of a couple hundred+ rock steps, many uneven. This stairway spirals up through the garden containing cacti and succulent plants originating from the Americas, Africa, and other tropical areas.
At the top of the garden, the tremendous reward is a view from a stone terrace, 1410 ft. above sea level, overlooking the roofs of the village, and the sweeping panorama of the coast. Outstanding!
Eze is the highest village in Provence, and truly impressive. However, by this time of the afternoon, the temperature had risen substantially, and we had begun the climb to the top with no water. Not a good idea! Though beautiful, it was tiring and hot! A few clouds had moved in, increasing as the day wore on.
As we descended the rock steps to the village proper, we enjoyed walking through the small alleys and looking at the wares of the shops. A couple of lavender sachets caught our attention as being light weight mementos for friends.
Thirst was getting the better of us, so we made our way to the parking level to purchase some refreshing drinks. By this time we had learned that to have the privilege of a restroom, one must find a place to purchase a drink. No public restrooms.
We returned to the Radisson Blu in Nice by about 4 PM, via the magnificent Middle Corniche. Our intentions to visit the museums of Chagall and Matisse had now vanished for two reasons: we were tired from the day and by the time we would reach the museums, they would be close to closing.
The 8th floor rooftop bar overlooking the sea couldn’t be resisted! Ah! Sipping wine while enjoying the dynamite view of the Mediterranean. Nothing better. Rob and Yvonne joined us, and we made a reservation for a 7:15 dinner together at the upstairs restaurant. We agreed that the view far surpassed anything we could get in the Old Town.
Before dinner, we each enjoyed some free time on our own walking along the coast and taking in the blue Mediterranean, recalling from a previous visit the pebbly beach.
A friendly couple with a bichon friese puppy offered to share their bench. Tom reached across Margie, who was sitting next to the couple, to pet the little dog, and it crawled across Margie’s lap and settled in Tom’s. He had made a new friend. The owners had to coax their little dog away.
Our rooftop restaurant meal of a delicious penne pasta with salad and a shared bottle of a nice vin rouge with Yonne and Rob was a perfect ending to the day. Great discussion about Australian education, politics, travels, and families! A fun night lasting until 10 PM.
Tomorrow: Inland PROVENCE towns
Nov 12th, 2016, 03:36 PM
#40
I enjoyed your take on Monaco & Eze. So many Fodorites do not like Monaco but we loved all of our 3 visits there and Eze remains one of our favorites.
There's something about the French Riviera that calls you back again & again.
Next time I am heading for that view from the 8th floor bar at the Radisson Blu!
There's something about the French Riviera that calls you back again & again.
Next time I am heading for that view from the 8th floor bar at the Radisson Blu!
