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Fly to Toulouse, travel to Sarlat----suggestions please!

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If you were to fly to Toulouse, and then have 2 or 3 nights before our booking in Sarlat, where would you stay?

As our flight day will be long, we need an easy drive from the Toulouse airport for 1 night.

We were thinking maybe a place closeby and then a drive the next day to stay at St. Cirq
for 1 or 2 nights. Then an easy drive to Sarlat the next day for a 1 week stay.

The operative word is "easy" as we have done these European flights many time and we know what a wreck we are after 20+ hours(which includes driving to the airport, flying, changing planes, etc.)

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    As many here know, I absolutely do not like St-Cirq-Lapopie (the one I assume you're talking about) and could not imagine staying there for 2 nights. In and out in an hour or so, fine. Lingering there - no way for me. Apart from the stunning geography, it's nothing but a steep hillside littered with the tackiest sort of French tourist shops - selling chotchkies made for the most part in China. I would far rather spend my time in Albi, a nice-size town with many historic attractions and plenty of good food, or Gaillac (for the wine) or even tiny Castelnaud-le-Montmiral, a Brigadoonish hill town/bastide. Or Cordes-sur-Ciel.

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    TPAYT, we posted at the same time. I will be interested in hearing any comments about La Maison au Puits. I have been thinking towards a future trip to France, and this place is on my list of possibilities.

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    I would stay in Albi also - unless you'll be there on a Sunday when everything will be closed - except the museums. Cordes is nice - but quite small. If you'll be there on a Sunday, St Antonin Noble Val has a nice Sunday morning market. We've stayed in a Gite near there for 2 weeks. I have a write-up about the region in my Languedoc/Roussillon itinerary. E-mail me at [email protected] if you would like a copy of the itinerary.

    Visit St Cirq Lapopie & Pech Merle on the way to Sarlat.

    Stu Dudley

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    Last year we flew Los Angeles to Toulouse. We had only one night before our rental in Sarlat. We chose to stay in Rocamadour at Domaine de la Rhue

    We wish we would have had 2 nights. Attractions are Rocamadour itself, and within a short distance Upper Dordogne valley- Gouffre de Padirac, Chateau Castelnau and Montal, and villages Carennac and Autoire. If you have more time a day trip to Lot and Cele valleys and around-Grotte de Pech-Merle,St Cirq Lapopie, and Figeac, etc.

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    Wonderful suggestions. These are my thoughts:

    It looks like the airport in Toulouse is to the north. If we pick up our car right at the airport, we could drive north without going into the city itself which we have found in other places in France to be easy.

    We don't really want too much for the first 2 days. Arrive Toulouse 11am on a Wed., pick up car and get to 1st destination at 1-2pm. Unwind and relax and have dinner. On Thurs. 2nd day go into Cordes for lunch, etc. We will be staying in Sarlat for 1 week, so will have plenty of time to tour the area. After that, it will be up to Paris(just can't miss Paris, our favorite) for 5 days.

    Rocamadour looks nice, but I have to say that I'm leaning toward Maison au Puits outside of Cordes-sur-ciel. It looks nice and relaxing.

    Stu---I do have your Dordogne itinerary, thank you so much. Do you think we'll need the Lang/Rous one also?

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    Here is the section in my Languedoc guide that describes the "stuff" in the area close to the Lot River, and below to Toulouse

    Switch to the Michelin Green Guide for the Dordogne, Berry, & Limousin
    Switch to Map #337.

    Figeac** is one of my favorite towns. Unfortunately, it’s Monday morning and many of the shops may be closed. In any event, the architecture in this town is quite interesting. There is a walking itinerary described the Michelin Green Guide for the Dordogne. You can also obtain a walking itinerary (in English) from the Tourist Office (sometimes closed on Monday morning too). The sites in town are very well marked. Remember the lunch closings (one time I had to hang around 1 hr to wait for a store to open at 3:30 to buy some Cahors wine I wanted).

    Tonight’s stay will be in the spectacular perched village of St Cirq Lapopie**, another of TMBVoF.

    You have two options for very interesting ways to get there:
    1. Follow the Lot River to St Cirq. This route is described in the Dordogne GG under “Lot”. Visit the Chateau de Ceneviers* along the way – see the Michelin GG.
    2. Follow the Cele River. This is described in the Dordogne GG under “Cele”. I think I prefer this option, but perhaps that’s because we took this route most recently. It passes some very interesting cliff houses actually built into the rock. Visit the town of Espagnac on the way.

    Stay in St Cirq Lapopie**. It’ definitely a tourist town, and you will hear a lot of American English spoken here & you’ll see a lot of white running shoes. It’s one of those towns that is so dependent on the tourist trade, that most shops are probably open on Sunday & Monday. We’ve purchased a few items from the shops in town. The setting of St Cirq is quite spectacular – it’s worth at least 10 photos. In high season, it’s better to stay in the town so you can explore in the early morning or late afternoon, instead of mid-day with the rest of the day trippers & large tour groups.

    When you are still at your hotel on the Lot River near Estaing, make reservations for the first tour of the day at the Pech Merle*** caves (just a few Ks north of St Cirq on the D41 close to the town of Cabrerets). These are the best caves you will see that have the original pre-historic cave drawings and stalactites & stalagmites. You must reserve ahead, however, since there are a limited number of people that they will admit daily. Don’t miss these caves. My Michelin Guide says they open at 9:30 with the first departure at 9:45, & last morning departure at noon. They open again in the afternoon. The tour lasts 1 hr. Phone is 05 65 31 27 05.

    After visiting the caves, drive along the Lot River some more, visit some cute villages along the Lot, see one of the best medieval military fortresses, and then drive through the beautiful Quercy Blanc region, visiting two of my favorite bastide towns. The final destination will be in the Gorges de l’Aveyron, where you will stay 4 nights.

    Leave Pech Merle and follow the Lot towards Cahors. I’m not a big fan of Cahors**-. There are not enough old houses and sections near the train station are a little scruffy. We’ve visited Cahors several times. The Saturday market is quite nice, however. Cahors looks better from the outside than it does from the inside. The best view of town is from the D911 on the opposite (east & the south) side of the river as it swings clockwise around the southern edge of Cahors. The road from Figeac will take you through town. Cross the Pont (bridge) Louis Philippe (see Red or GG) and turn left and go counter clockwise until you don’t see a good view anymore. Reverse the car & retrace your route on the D911, which becomes the D653 at the Pont.

    Follow the Lot west of Cahors, using the route described in the Green Guide under “Lot – Lower Reaches”. In the newer Green Guide, this route is described under “Luzech”. If you like exploring luxury hotels, stop at the Mercues (only do this if you didn’t visit Cahors & didn’t visit Pech Merle today). Stop in Luzech & explore a little. It’s a very small town with the ruins of a very impressive tower perched on an overlook. Richard the Lionhearted had actually used the tower. Stop & explore again at Puy l’Eveque. We spent a lot of time there. It’s a wonderful town, which boasted many restored buildings & even had a town walking route posted along the narrow back roads/paths. Follow the Green Guide to Boneguil** and get the camera out as you approach on the specified route. Look up Bonaguil in the Green Guide & notice the picture. You can tour this interesting medieval military fortress. There is also a guided tour, but we found it to be very long & tedious (it’s in French too). You can wander on your own.

    You will now go out of the domain of the Dordogne GG, so I’ll describe one short trip that we found interesting. From Bonaguil, leave on the D158 south and then the D673 southwest towards Fumel. At Condat, cross the Lot River and connect with the D911 again heading west. Take the short side trip off the D911 & drive through Lustrac, and then back on the D911 heading west. At St Sylvestre, cross the Lot, and go to Penne*. There is an upper “Centre Ville” – make sure you go there & not the lower less interesting part of the city. Penne is a fabulously restored medieval town with an attractive “place” (square) dotted with cafes. My wife believes that this historical town had a “master plan”, as the restorations had a rather “ordered” appearance & there were no structures in dilapidated condition.

    Now head back east for a drive through the beautiful Quercy Blanc*+. You are now back in the domain of the Michelin GG for the Dordogne. From Penne, head east on the D661 to the bastide town of Tournan. At Tournan, take the D18 south to Montaigu, and then the D2 to Lauzert+ (another TMBVoF). This is one of our favorite Bastide towns. Get out & explore. Lauzerte has the typical configuration of a bastide town – large/huge central square, flanked on all four sides by relatively tall buildings, all with vaulted arcades at the ground level. Sit in the central square, or under the arcade (if it’s too hot) & have a refreshment. As you leave Lauzerte and drive through the lower town, you will pass a pizza store. You can get a pizza with toppings such as crevettes, foie gras, Roquefort, magrets (duck breast), and artichokes – only in France!!!

    Here is a very pretty drive to take you through the heart of Quercy Blanc. Leave Lauzerte heading east on the D34. Take the D34 through Cazes-Mondenard, Vazerac, and when the D34 hits the D20, take the D20 northeast to Molieres. At Molieres, take the D29 northwest, and when it hits the D68, take the D68/D26 (road number change when it crosses a department boundary) northeast and connect to the D695 to Castelnau-Montratier+, another nice bastide town worth exploring. Leave Castelnau heading southeast on the D4/D38 (another road re-numbering) and on to another of our favorite bastide towns – Montpezat de Quercy*. See Montpezat in the Dordogne GG and explore this town. If you want to shorten this drive a bit, when you go through Molieres, stay on the D20 to Montpezat & skip Castelnau – the D20 is actually a slightly prettier drive.

    Now it’s time to head to the hotel. Hop on the fast N20 (the “N” road, not the freeway) going south. Drive through Caussade and then get on the D916 heading east toward Caylus. Just past Stepfonds, head towards St Antonin Noble Val on the D5. Shortly, when the road starts to curve a little, you will get a fantastic view of St Antonin – get the camera ready.

    Proceed into St Antonin Noble Val*, but before you get to the center of town, look for a turn to the right, which will take you counter-clockwise around town. At the bridge, turn right & go over the Aveyron River. If you want to get an even better view of St Antonin, as soon as you hit the D115 off the bridge, turn right & go 20 yards or so until you see a large park downhill on your right. There are several benches in this park. We’ve spent many hours sitting on these benches, admiring the view, devouring a pizza we bought at the fabulous Sunday morning market, and writing in my wife’s diary. After absorbing this view, turn around and proceed east on the D115 to the small town of Feneyrols. My map has the name of the town on the south side of the river, but the town is actually on the north side. Cross the river and turn left (west), and go about a hundred yards and look for the Hostellerie des Jardins des Therms on the left. Turn into the driveway and park in the lot behind the hotel/restaurant. We have never stayed at the hotel, but we’ve dined there twice – it’s our second favorite restaurant in this area, and my wife loves the simple colorful décor in the restaurant. My Michelin guide says the rooms are 42 to 72 E per night with dinners from 22 to 41 E, with ½ pension available. My Red Guide says that this place is restful and that they have large rooms. The phone is 05 63 30 65 49, and their e-mail is [email protected] . The town of Feneyrols is nothing special, but this hotel is very centrally located for touring this area and like I said, the food is superb. If you want to stay in a very famous hotel that has a Michelin 1 star restaurant, in one of the top tourist towns in the area, you could stay at the Grand Ecuyer in the town of Cordes sur Sel. Rooms are 125 to 155 E and dinners are 38 to 72 E. A close friend stayed there and said that the dinner was not as good as some other 1 star restaurants that he had dined at. There is probably a little more overhead getting in & out of Cordes, since it is a restricted traffic town. There will be more American tourists at the Grand Ecuyer than at the Jardin des Thermes. The town of Najac has two hotels and both have restaurants that have been rewarded the “Red Man” by the Michelin guide. We’ve checked out both places, and they did not appeal to us, and it’s also a little difficult to get in/out of Najac.

    Dine at the hotel tonight. The Hostellerie des Jardins des Thermes restaurant is closed Wed & Thurs (except in July & Aug).


    A little less driving today.

    You are back in the area covered by the Green Guide to the Languedoc. Look up “St Antonin Noble Val” in the GG. Follow the driving itinerary # 1 to explore the Gorges de l’Aveyron*+. Take the route exactly as described in the Guide – from St Antonin, through Penne, and then Bruniquel – in the clockwise direction. This direction will give you the best views. Make sure that you cross the Aveyron River when they tell you to – you’ll have to pay attention. There is a fantastic view of Penne+ as you approach this village with large chateau ruins sticking up in the sky. You can get a great view from the road next to the tourist office and across from a restaurant with outside tables (lunch?). This restaurant was very crowded when we were there on a Sunday afternoon (when the French take their main meal of the day). Penne is another of TMBVoF. Read about it in the GG under “Penne” and explore the town. Continue on the drive and shortly you will come to Bruniquel*, another TMBVoF. Explore this town quite thoroughly. See “Bruniquel” in the GG & visit the chateau. This is a real pleasant town. Next is Montricoux, home of our favorite restaurant in this area – Les Gorges de l’Aveyron. When you follow the GG itinerary and get to Montricoux, turn left and cross the Aveyron River on the bridge. The restaurant is on the right after crossing the bridge – it’s well marked. Check out the posted menu. Don’t miss dining here. Go back over the bridge & continue on the itinerary. Visit St Antonin*. If you are in this area on a Sunday morning, there is a fabulous market in town, and many of the stores are open too. Find some picnic provisions, and have lunch across the river at the park I described earlier.

    After doing Itinerary #1 in the GG, do Itinerary #2. It’s not as scenic, but Varen is cute and worth a visit.

    If you are traveling from mid June to mid Sept, dine at the Gorges de l’Aveyron tonight. If you are outside this time period, dine there tomorrow.


    Market day in Villefranche de Rouergue. From Feneyrols, cross the river & turn left (east), and take the D115/D958 then the D922 north to Villefranche. Get out the Red Guide to navigate into this town.

    Villefranche de Rouergue*+ is a very pretty fortified bastide town. Look up “bastide” in the Green Guide to understand how these towns were laid out. There is a map of Villefranche in the Michelin Red Guide. It has a picturesque Thursday morning market. Notice the large square in the middle of the town map – which is where the best section of this market is located. It is one of the most scenic we’ve seen (we’ve visited over 50), with all the umbrellas opened up in the large town square. There is a picture of this market in the Green Guide, but it is actually prettier than the picture depicts (we’ve been there twice). Villefranche has one of my wife’s very favorite home decorating stores. Its called Acuarela at 21 rue de la Republic. This street starts at the southeast corner of the town square, and the store is in the first block of this street on your left as you walk away from the square. The store covers two floors, and it’s fun to just wander through even if you don’t like to shop.

    After visiting Villefranche, head back south on the D992, and then west on the D39 to Najac. Look up Najac* in the Green guide. It’s another TMBVoF. If you didn’t have lunch in Villefranche, there are some nice outdoor café’s in this town. Explore the town and especially visit the Fortress*. There is a very nice view of the town from this fortress. Leave town by going west. Notice on your map that there are many green shaded (scenic) roads to the west of Najac. I have no idea which one we took, but there are nice views of Najac from the westernmost green shaded road (I think it’s the D47 – look for the view icon on the map).

    Work your way north to the D926, and take it southwest to Caylus – look it up in the green guide. This town actually looks better from the distance on the D926 than it does from within. My wife has bought some pottery (on several occasions) at a store on the D926 on the south side of the road. Head into Caylus – it’s a little dreary during lunch closing, but worth a visit – if only a short one.

    After Caylus, take the D19 south back to St Antonin and then to your hotel.

    Have dinner in Monteils (northeast of Caussade), at the Clos Monteils. The restaurant is in a house, and you have to knock on the door to get it. The food is not as spectacular as the Gorges de l’Aveyron or Jardins des Thermes, however, but still quite good


    Head out early to visit the beautiful city of Albi***. This is one of our favorite small cities in France. Take the D115 and then the D600 past Cordes (visit later in the day) and then into Albi. Get out the Red Guide to find your way into central Albi. You will enter at #6 and follow the road south across the bridge. From this bridge, there is a fabulous view of Albi. Just after crossing the bridge, you are in the old section of town. Look for the underground parking lot (it’s huge), and park there. Emerge from the lot, and retrace your route to take some pictures of Albi from the bridge. Albi buttons up tight at lunchtime, except (June through Sept) for the fabulous Cathedral Ste Cecile***. My Green Guide says that the Toulouse Lautrec Museum** is closed for lunch (except July & Aug), but I’m not sure that’s the case. Perhaps call ahead (number is in the GG) to confirm opening times. Toulouse Lautrec is one of the few artists that I like, and I really enjoyed this museum. It’s located in the Palais de la Berbie*+. Don’t miss the gardens outside the palais. Follow the walking itinerary described in the Green Guide. This is an interesting city. There are informational plaques (also in English) affixed to the outsides of buildings. They describe the architecture & related historically significant events. Many of the old buildings had fallen into disrepair and had been slated for demolition in the 1970s. Instead, the City had refurbished them & they now provide “social” (low- income?) housing.

    After visiting Albi, retrace your drive and this time stop & visit the perched village of Cordes sur Sel**, another TMBVoF. Park your car as high up on the hill as possible – the walk up from the base of this town is a killer. Cordes is quite touristy (like St Cirq), but it’s an interesting village. Follow the walking itinerary in the GG.

    If you anticipate getting to Albi after 10:00AM, perhaps visit Cordes in the morning, and Albi after 2:30 when the stores start to open again. I have more energy in the morning, & I usually like to do the “main event” then.

    Have dinner at one of the restaurants in Najac.

    Some thoughts about additional things in the Gorges de l’Aveyron area

    Montauban*-. The picture of the arcades in the Green Guide makes this town look quite appealing, and it actually has some good “bones”. However, it’s in a little “disrepair” and we did not enjoy our visit there that much.

    Caussade. The Monday morning market here knocked my socks off. The food section of the market is fabulous. It winds through town and in late Sept, there were about 10 vendors selling 8 different “pedigrees” of Cepe mushrooms. I think this market draws a huge number of people from the surrounding areas. It is not a tourist market. It’s one of the best we’ve seen. We enjoyed sitting & watching the locals shop for their stuff. There is also a section of the market selling household goods, fabric, lace, cars, and garden materials. There is a nice garden store near the large parking lot at the north end of town.

    Toulouse*** There is frequent train service to Toulouse from both Montauban and Caussade. You can take the train to visit Toulouse as a day trip.

    Stu Dudley

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    Stu----I will add your itinerary to my research. Thanks again. I hope that you pasted that in some way--or else you are a very fast typist!

    Do you think airport to Cordes is a doable drive on jet lag?

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    "Unwind and relax and have dinner"

    The first hotel you listed( Hotel Le Saint Cirq) is the best at meeting your requirements. The Maison au Puits is way too "cozy" to hang out at. The drive from the airport is only 25 min longer.
    Just my opinion!

    "Hotel Saint-Cirq is in the heart of the Causses du Quercy Natural Park in front of St. Cirq Lapopie. It offers a heated pool, furnished terrace on the grounds and free private parking on site.

    Guest rooms at the Saint-Cirq are air conditioned and offer free Wi-Fi access and views of the medieval village of Saint-Cirq Lapopie. The rooms have private bathrooms equipped with a walk-in shower and double baths for the suites.

    A full breakfast is served daily at Hotel Saint-Cirq and guests can enjoy their meal on the terrace overlooking St. Cirq Lapopie or in the hotel’s dining-room in front of the fireplace.

    Hotel Rooms: 25. "

    If you insist on the 1st night near Cordes, the hotel suggested by poster StCirq would be the better choice.

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    >>I hope that you pasted that in some way--or else you are a very fast typist!<<

    I copied/pasted it from my 35 page Languedoc itinerary.

    >>Do you think airport to Cordes is a doable drive on jet lag?<<

    Yep - it's a little less than 1 1/2 hrs & mostly autoroute.

    Stu Dudley

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    I absolutely adored Toulouse, but it sounds like you've already ruled it out.

    I also enjoyed Albi very much. If you decide to go there, you might consider having dinner at Le Clos Sainte Cecile - lovely setting (in an outdoor garden; there is, of course, an indoor area as well), delicious food, relaxed and welcoming service.

    I relied heavily on StuDudley's recommendations (thanks again, Stu!), and like dugi_otok, thought Rocamadour a good place to spend a night.


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    Another vote for Toulouse, a beautiful city, great for walking around/hanging out. Albi is also of course beautiful - I always think of it as a 'mini-Toulouse.' In both places you will be surrounded by an architecture that you wont see in the Dordogne. Here everything is golden coloured stone, while further south (Toulouse, Albi) it's red brick.

    I personally wouldn't spend a night IN Rocamadour - I think the view of Rocamadour is the best thing. As one of the top tourist sites in France, it is extremely busy and touristy.

    The Toulouse airport is very easy to get in and out of, one of the reasons we use it a lot. If you are on the autoroute, a warning though that the Montauban bypass is 90km an hour, after 130 on the autoroute itself. There are speed cameras in both directions. Speed limit is posted, but there is a tendency to go faster. Don't.

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    <<It looks like the airport in Toulouse is to the north. If we pick up our car right at the airport, we could drive north without going into the city itself which we have found in other places in France to be easy.>>

    That's what I thought when I decided to fly into Toulouse rather than Bordeaux, and it's a sound strategy, but not foolproof. We arrived in Toulouse late in the afternoon on a Friday, which just happned to be the start of a 3 day weekend. When you leave the airport to head toward the Dordogne, or most of the other destinations you are contemplating, you actually have to head toward town for a short distance, before you can finally turn north. The traffic on our arrival day was horrendous, and my unfamiliarity with the GSP made this a nerve wracking task. We got through it OK, and odds are that when you arrive, the traffic won't be nearly as bad as we encountered, but it's somehting to think aobut. Taking a taxi into Toulouse and spending your first night there might not be a bad idea.

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    I wouldn't spend a night in Rocamadour, either. To me it's a place to scamper around for a couple of hours, then get out. However, the Domaine de la Rhue outside Rocamadour is an absolutely delightful place to stay. However, Rocamadour is almost as far from Toulouse as Sarlat, so it doesn't fit into your "easy" scheme, really. And with a week in Sarlat, you'll have time to go exploring around Rocamadour and visit Martel, the Gouffre de Padirac, Collonges-la-Rouge, and all that anyway.

    I do think Albi is the logical choice, with Cordes a close second.

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    We spent our first night in Albi on our previous trip to the Dordogne in June 2006 and found that it was an easy drive from the Toulouse Airport even after an overnight flight. Unfortunately, the wonderful little restaurant with rooms where we stayed then has changed hands and is "not the same" so I booked a room at the centrally located La Tour Sainte Cécile. Our rate is less than what is quoted and includes breakfast, parking and tickets to the Toulouse-Lautrec Museum which has expanded since our last visit.

    I had planned to shop for picnic supplies at the small Sunday market in Albi before setting out the next morning for a scenic drive through Gorges de l’Aveyron, apparently in the wrong direction, but now, thanks to Stu, will shop at the Sunday Market in St Antonin Noble Val instead.

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